(Topic ID: 65903)

Flash Gordon: Saviors of the Universe Club

By TheShameGovernor

10 years ago


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There are 2,789 posts in this topic. You are on page 23 of 56.
#1101 4 years ago
Quoted from bluebomber:

Does anyone have any tips on adjusting the saucer kick out angle? I'm seeing in the manual that it recommends they fire in certain directions, and I'm not seeing a good way to adjust it. Plus some parts of the mechanisms are kinda loose, and there doesn't seem to be any way to tighten it up.

On mine I drilled the holes in the plate a bit bigger to let the whole mechanism rotate a bit. Turned out a small amount was all I needed. If you move it enough you can put new holes in the playfield.

#1102 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

Has anyone found any good looking score cards? I love the High Speed and Whirlwind cards that are offered at pinballcards.com.
Anything similar in quality out there?

A bunch of variations

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/custom-apron-cards-printable-versions-only/page/12#post-5258013

#1103 4 years ago
Quoted from bluebomber:

Does anyone have any tips on adjusting the saucer kick out angle? I'm seeing in the manual that it recommends they fire in certain directions, and I'm not seeing a good way to adjust it. Plus some parts of the mechanisms are kinda loose, and there doesn't seem to be any way to tighten it up.

On mine, I have just inverted the mechanism (180° rotation), and now it works perfectly. Of course, you must invert the coils.

#1104 4 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Your flippers have definitely been rebuilt at least once using some non standard parts, and judging by the looks could use that full rebuild kit. Seeing some of those screws they may have even buggered up the baseplate and you may have to replace those as well. The switches you received will work even if they aren't 100% identical in height as long as the flipper crank action will open/close the switch correctly. Best way to tell is to study & maybe even video the original action & engagement and then be able to duplicate it once you rebuild all the mechanical parts. The other thing is to keep track of which wire is going to which leaf of the switch to make sure everything works correctly electrically.

I did replace all the worn parts with new ones. What advice do you have someone who took them apart before doing all the things you mentioned?

#1105 4 years ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

I did replace all the worn parts with new ones. What advice do you have someone who took them apart before doing all the things you mentioned?

You’ll like playing the game a lot more if you do a complete flipper rebuild and the reliability will also increase dramatically. Flash Gordon is an awesome pinball and all the better with solid flippers. I now always replace the baseplates and just start from scratch with all new parts on all of the older SS games. Play it the way you have it now. Order all the parts and spend an evening rebuilding. Ultimately not even that hard and in some ways, easier if you’re rebuilding from the ground up.

#1106 4 years ago
Quoted from zahner:

You’ll like playing the game a lot more if you do a complete flipper rebuild and the reliability will also increase dramatically. Flash Gordon is an awesome pinball and all the better with solid flippers. I now always replace the baseplates and just start from scratch with all new parts on all of the older SS games. Play it the way you have it now. Order all the parts and spend an evening rebuilding. Ultimately not even that hard and in some ways, easier if you’re rebuilding from the ground up.

I agree with you. My problem is I don't have the old switches, and I can't remember how to stack the new ones.

#1107 4 years ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

I agree with you. My problem is I don't have the old switches, and I can't remember how to stack the new ones.

You can download a Bally parts manual on planetary pinball which will have breakdowns of all the parts with diagrams and part numbers. If you can’t find it let me know and I’ll post the link when I get home.

#1108 4 years ago
Quoted from zahner:

You can download a Bally parts manual on planetary pinball which will have breakdowns of all the parts with diagrams and part numbers. If you can’t find it let me know and I’ll post the link when I get home.

Thanks. I went to PP, but I can't look at the part manuals. Is there something I am missing?

#1109 4 years ago
Quoted from Enochsmoken:

Thanks. I went to PP, but I can't look at the part manuals. Is there something I am missing?

It's not intuitive - try the link below. It's a PDF and is awkward.

Only click on the MOBILE VERSION.

It's meant to be printed and folded in half into a booklet. When just viewing the PDF, the pages seem all out of wack. That aside, it is pretty easy to find the flipper mechanism diagrams.

Go to page 72 for the diagram. It also has the original part numbers.

Go to: http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/BLY_Parts_1980-1/index.html#/36/zoomed

Have fun!

#1110 4 years ago

Anyone have a spare metal bracket for Flash Gordon strobe assembly? Not sure if it was ever reproduced. Thanks!

#1111 4 years ago
Quoted from zahner:

It's not intuitive - try the link below. It's a PDF and is awkward.
Only click on the MOBILE VERSION.
It's meant to be printed and folded in half into a booklet. When just viewing the PDF, the pages seem all out of wack. That aside, it is pretty easy to find the flipper mechanism diagrams.
Go to page 72 for the diagram. It also has the original part numbers.
Go to: http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/BLY_Parts_1980-1/index.html#/36/zoomed
Have fun!

Great! Thank you very much.

#1112 4 years ago
Quoted from chad:

Anyone have a spare metal bracket for Flash Gordon strobe assembly? Not sure if it was ever reproduced. Thanks!

Speaking of the strobe.... I have the new [now about one or two years old] aftermarket version and I have replaced all of my other boards, except sound, with Alltek. When I plug in the strobe, it strobes fine and dandy while the game works, but eventually, things start to go a bit nuts and the game gets all funky. Stuff like the sound not finishing or starting phrases, the game resetting, locking up or not starting a new game. Completely random stuff. It seems very counterintutuve that plugging in the strobe would do this, but I have just given up and unplugged the strobe - and when I do this, the game works perfectly without it. The folks at Alter and the fellow that made the aftermarket strobe [can't remember the company name] are at a loss. Any ideas?

#1113 4 years ago
Quoted from zahner:

Speaking of the strobe.... I have the new [now about one or two years old] aftermarket version and I have replaced all of my other boards, except sound, with Alltek. When I plug in the strobe, it strobes fine and dandy while the game works, but eventually, things start to go a bit nuts and the game gets all funky. Stuff like the sound not finishing or starting phrases, the game resetting, locking up or not starting a new game. Completely random stuff. It seems very counterintutuve that plugging in the strobe would do this, but I have just given up and unplugged the strobe - and when I do this, the game works perfectly without it. The folks at Alter and the fellow that made the aftermarket strobe [can't remember the company name] are at a loss. Any ideas?

Not sure on this, I have not tried it yet. Customer missing the bracket.

#1114 4 years ago
Quoted from zahner:

Speaking of the strobe.... I have the new [now about one or two years old] aftermarket version and I have replaced all of my other boards, except sound, with Alltek. When I plug in the strobe, it strobes fine and dandy while the game works, but eventually, things start to go a bit nuts and the game gets all funky. Stuff like the sound not finishing or starting phrases, the game resetting, locking up or not starting a new game. Completely random stuff. It seems very counterintutuve that plugging in the strobe would do this, but I have just given up and unplugged the strobe - and when I do this, the game works perfectly without it. The folks at Alter and the fellow that made the aftermarket strobe [can't remember the company name] are at a loss. Any ideas?

Does the issue happen at exactly the same event/time, or sort of randomly?
Maybe a grounding issue? Are the strobe board and the strobe assembly robustly grounded to the game's ground braid, as well as the rest of the boards?

#1115 4 years ago

I'm using the Pinpoint Electronics aftermarket strobe board with a full set of Alltek boards and a replacement Squalk and Talk with no issues.

#1116 4 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Does the issue happen at exactly the same event/time, or sort of randomly?
Maybe a grounding issue? Are the strobe board and the strobe assembly robustly grounded to the game's ground braid, as well as the rest of the boards?

I will check to make sure it travels completely to a solid ground. Thanks. Had not thought to confirm that. It is sort of random.

#1117 4 years ago

I just designed and printed some replacement score cards today. The Art Deco corners from the backglass were pretty irregular, so these are based on the ones from the promotional flyer instead. White paper seemed really bright, but I found some off white paper that gives it more of a vintage feel. I have another style in mind that I may try out if I have the time.

Flash-Gordon-Score-Cards (resized).jpgFlash-Gordon-Score-Cards (resized).jpg
#1118 4 years ago
Quoted from bluebomber:

I just designed and printed some replacement score cards today. The Art Deco corners from the backglass were pretty irregular, so these are based on the ones from the promotional flyer instead. White paper seemed really bright, but I found some off white paper that gives it more of a vintage feel. I have another style in mind that I may try out if I have the time.[quoted image]

Classic look! Care to share?

#1119 4 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Classic look! Care to share?

Yes, sorry. I still needed to spell check everything before uploading. There is a black border around the cards that is meant to be trimmed off when cutting out.

Edit: Now that I've uploaded, it looks like they are being compressed by Pinside. You may be able to get better quality images here: https://imgur.com/a/5DBxTp7.
Flash Gordon - Instructions (resized).jpgFlash Gordon - Instructions (resized).jpgFlash Gordon - Score Card (resized).jpgFlash Gordon - Score Card (resized).jpg

#1120 4 years ago
Quoted from bluebomber:

Yes, sorry. I still needed to spell check everything before uploading. There is a black border around the cards that is meant to be trimmed off when cutting out.
Edit: Now that I've uploaded, it looks like they are being compressed by Pinside. You may be able to get better quality images here: https://imgur.com/a/5DBxTp7.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks!

#1121 4 years ago

Does anyone have a coil sleeve list? I'm not finding a list or a kit online. I could tear them all out and measure, but I'd rather only spend that time once while I'm actually replacing them.

#1122 4 years ago

Still looking for a bracket to hold the strobe assembly.

#1123 4 years ago
Quoted from bluebomber:

Does anyone have a coil sleeve list? I'm not finding a list or a kit online. I could tear them all out and measure, but I'd rather only spend that time once while I'm actually replacing them.

Bally pretty much uses 1-5/8" in everything except drop target reset coils. And those rarely wear out.

#1124 4 years ago
Quoted from tomdrum:

Bally pretty much uses 1-5/8" in everything except drop target reset coils. And those rarely wear out.

I'm not seeing that on the Marco Bally coil sleeves section: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PFLD-CSLEEVE?S_CAT2=BALLY. I think these two inchers are the closest I'm seeing: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/0017-00041-0673.

#1125 4 years ago

Get them from Pinball Resource .45 each. Part # for them sleeve-bally-standard. 1-5/8"

DSCN6494 (resized).JPGDSCN6494 (resized).JPG
#1126 4 years ago
Quoted from tomdrum:

Get them from Pinball Resource .45 each. Part # for them sleeve-bally-standard. 1-5/8"[quoted image]

Somebody sold 1 5/8” coil sleeves in bulk, anyone remember who?

#1127 4 years ago

You'll want 2 of the drop target reset coil sleeves: Pinball Resource part number WLL-03-7068
Also, I believe the knocker uses the flange coil sleeve

11
#1128 4 years ago

I sand blast pint glasses as a hobby..check out what I made? I experimented with a two tone sand blast (the text and planet ring is a lighter blast). If any one is interested in one feel free to pm me.
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#1129 4 years ago
Quoted from bluebomber:

Yes, sorry. I still needed to spell check everything before uploading. There is a black border around the cards that is meant to be trimmed off when cutting out.
Edit: Now that I've uploaded, it looks like they are being compressed by Pinside. You may be able to get better quality images here: https://imgur.com/a/5DBxTp7.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice! The second replay score is a tad high though

#1130 4 years ago

I've bee rebuilding my FG with a hardtop install, and I'm redoing all the light sockets & rebuilding the mechs as well. During the pop bumper rebuild I used #555 style flat wire style socket to replace the finicky 44/47 OEM socket, with intentions on using one of the 11SMD pop bumper lights from Comet. Unfortunately as I discovered last night this combo will not mount with the factory FG caps & body.

For those of y'all that used LEDs in the pop bumpers: what did you use besides a single normal LED bulb?? I'm wondering if BRITECAPS EVO lights will work....

3 weeks later
#1131 4 years ago

Newest member of the club and doing a full refurbishment; anyone have a good upper playfield for sale or the top left corner plastic? Need both. Looking at touching up and clearing upper playfield but perhaps someone has a decent one left over from a playfield swap, drop me a note.

Lower playfield only needs minor work, cabinet needs repaint and I have to change out a mess of connectors.

Gary

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#1132 4 years ago
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#1133 4 years ago

Can I get a confirmation please. I am about to Install a Hardtop, I am wondering if the long narrow piece on the right is for the transition at the front of the upper playfield? That is my guess as it seems to fit, but I have learned long ago when in doubt ask

I bought this machine as a project, so if there was Instructions, they never made it to me.

Thanks,

FYI I borrowed the picture from a previous post

4402f64f9ba1b18c2ade44c8de1ebecd11e24e39.jpeg (resized).jpg4402f64f9ba1b18c2ade44c8de1ebecd11e24e39.jpeg (resized).jpg
#1134 4 years ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

Can I get a confirmation please. I am about to Install a Hardtop, I am wondering if the long narrow piece on the right is for the transition at the front of the upper playfield? That is my guess as it seems to fit, but I have learned long ago when in doubt ask
I bought this machine as a project, so if there was Instructions, they never made it to me.
Thanks,
FYI I borrowed the picture from a previous post[quoted image]

Correct, the long thin piece is to be used as shim material for ramps. Cut it carefully, you will need most if not all of it.

#1135 4 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Correct, the long thin piece is to be used as shim material for ramps. Cut it carefully, you will need most if not all of it.

Perfect, Thank-you!!

#1136 4 years ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

Perfect, Thank-you!!

Sure thing! Also, as I discovered the Bally factory used some shims as well! If you have a hobby shop nearby stop by there and pick up some real thin sheet styrene in .005 and .010 thickness that you can use in combination with the Hardtop provided shim to get the ramp transitions perfectly smooth.

#1137 4 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Sure thing! Also, as I discovered the Bally factory used some shims as well!

Fishpaper, or thin foam adhesive seal also.

#1138 4 years ago

When I prototyped dual level playfields for Outside edge and did flash Gordon I ended up cutting little pieces to fill-in so I asked Outside Edge to make those strips for me. They are now adding them to all two level playfields.

1 week later
#1139 4 years ago

Had some time today while in self-quarantine (corona), so I drew and printed a mod for the Wood Beast. This area of the playfield was always ugly to me because you can see down into the cabinet and some of the wires are visible. Also, the extra ball light seemed to be in a strange location as an indicator for the shot that you need to make. I imagined a 3D textured interior that would light up when the extra ball is lit, and drew your eye to the spot target in the back that beckons you to try the Wood Beast . Here is a slow mo video of it in action: https://i.imgur.com/HeiFQyD.mp4

Edit: I printed this in glow in the dark PLA filament, but I don't think it ever gets the light it needs to charge. It was just the closest green color that I had on hand.

IMG_2632 (resized).jpgIMG_2632 (resized).jpg

#1140 4 years ago
Quoted from bluebomber:

Had some time today while in self-quarantine (corona), so I drew and printed a mod for the Wood Beast. This area of the playfield was always ugly to me because you can see down into the cabinet and some of the wires are visible. Also, the extra ball light seemed to be in a strange location as an indicator for the shot that you need to make. I imagined a 3D textured interior that would light up when the extra ball is lit, and drew your eye to the spot target in the back that beckons you to try the Wood Beast . Here is a slow mo video of it in action: https://i.imgur.com/HeiFQyD.mp4
Edit: I printed this in glow in the dark PLA filament, but I don't think it ever gets the light it needs to charge. It was just the closest green color that I had on hand.
[quoted image]

Looks great would you mind sharing your print file? I would love to print one for my game.

#1141 4 years ago

FG is very close to working. None of the switches in switch column 1 are registering. The game has an aftermarket MPU, and I have already re-pinned the connectors. I re-pinned pin 1 on MPU J2 connector just to be sure (it didn't look awesome at first, but it does now). I may have inspected or touched a few other things too. It worked! Those switches were registering correctly. But then they stopped again. My re-pinning was good, I'm pretty sure of that. When I was looking around, I may have touched the connectors on the rectifier board, which has not been re-pinned at all. I'm looking for other ideas on what could cause switch column 1 to be out. Rectifier connector maybe? Does anything on the driver board affect this? I still have one connector there left to repin (top right - J3 I think it is). Thanks for any advice.

#1142 4 years ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

FG is very close to working. None of the switches in switch column 1 are registering. The game has an aftermarket MPU, and I have already re-pinned the connectors. I re-pinned pin 1 on MPU J2 connector just to be sure (it didn't look awesome at first, but it does now). I may have inspected or touched a few other things too. It worked! Those switches were registering correctly. But then they stopped again. My re-pinning was good, I'm pretty sure of that. When I was looking around, I may have touched the connectors on the rectifier board, which has not been re-pinned at all. I'm looking for other ideas on what could cause switch column 1 to be out. Rectifier connector maybe? Does anything on the driver board affect this? I still have one connector there left to repin (top right - J3 I think it is). Thanks for any advice.

Maybe check all the switches in that column themselves. Make sure the wires are on the lugs with good solder joints. A broken connection in the right spot could take out the whole column.

#1143 4 years ago

Have you noticed a change in switch behavior after raising and lowering the PF? Could be a loose connection between the connector pin and the PF wiring. Use something metal that will fit in the connector housing and buzz out the connection from there to switches involved, line side and strobe. You should be able to find the wire colors and positions in the schematics. You want to focus on J2 at the MPU and to the PF. Try raising and lowering the PF while doing this. Could be a pinched wire in the harness or something cutting into the wire, lamp socket possibly.

#1144 4 years ago

Flash Gordon's alive! I found a broken wire on a switch, although it was not in column 1, it toned correctly and was taking down the whole column. I'm very happy to have this game playing. Now I can do minor issues.

#1145 4 years ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

Flash Gordon's alive! I found a broken wire on a switch, although it was not in column 1, it toned correctly and was taking down the whole column. I'm very happy to have this game playing. Now I can do minor issues.

#1146 4 years ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

Flash Gordon's alive! I found a broken wire on a switch, although it was not in column 1, it toned correctly and was taking down the whole column. I'm very happy to have this game playing. Now I can do minor issues.

Just curious, what switch was the broken wire on?

#1147 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Just curious, what switch was the broken wire on?

It was one of the Star rollovers on the shooter lane side.

#1148 4 years ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

It was one of the Star rollovers on the shooter lane side.

That is on the first column, so that explains it. Glad you got it fixed.

#1149 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

That is on the first column, so that explains it. Glad you got it fixed.

Hey, you're right! I can't believe I missed that. I definitely learned some new things working on this machine.

ro (resized).pngro (resized).png
#1150 4 years ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

Hey, you're right! I can't believe I missed that. I definitely learned some new things working on this machine.[quoted image]

I know from experience.

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