Thanks for all the advice about lamp sockets. I have a couple of ones that seem a little flakey. I watched some videos on how to repair them, but at $1 a socket, I think I might just buy a few new ones.

Next question: I have the 2SMD LEDs with non-frosted domes in all the insert sockets. I find the ones for the bonus multipliers and shoot again inserts to be blindingly bright. I was thinking about getting 1SMD frosted ones instead. Not sure if I'll get white or color matching. What do people use for those? I read somewhere in this thread that the retro ones from Comet work well there, but the retro ones don't seem to be non-ghosting. I have a new Alltek lamp driver board, so I'm not sure if I still need non-ghosting LEDs. Anyway, interested in hearing people's thoughts.

Bump for this question. Anyone have any recommendations for the best LEDs for these particular inserts?

If you have the altek board (with the power wire hooked up) you won’t need the non ghosting leds.

In my FG, I used retro frosted from comet, in warm white. It’s not overly bright, but brighter than incandescents.

Does anyone have a video of what the speech test should say? Mine seems to repeat some phrases, etc, and says a few weird (empor-roo the great?), but can't find any listing of what it's actually supposed to do in the manual/etc

"Emperor Ming awaits".

Definitely doesn't sound like that. Hence I'm looking for a video to compare

LOL - “empor-roo the great?“ sounds like you got the Scooby Doo version. I shot a 5 second video of what you want, but I cannot get it to post here or to a pm to you. PM me your email or let me know how to post.

Had a great game last night where I finally combined 5x bonus with 5x playfield scoring and then shot the shooter lane to collect. Ended up with 3.4 million in points on a three ball game. Great fun!

Isn't it satisfying when it all comes together like that!.
Congratulations. Great game.

Deleted

Anyone have this plastic for sale? I need one for mine. Thanks!

IMG_6759 (resized).jpg

One of these?

20191229_174931 (resized).jpg

Yep! The top one.PM sent

I've had a persistent problem with my single standup. When the leaf switch closes, it just keeps firing off contacts/points again and again. Bonus cannot be collected either. Presumably when the target drops the leaf switch should score once then shut off. I can't figure out why this is happening. The leaf switch of the bottom-most rollover in the upper right playfield seems not to be connecting...is this critical to the drop target's logic?

Is it gapped correctly? Pressing together and staying together when the target is dropped? Or is it just barely making contact?

Also, perhaps try cleaning the contacts. Put a business card between them, press them shut and gently pull the card out. Do that a few times.

HELP WITH FLIPPERS.

I need to find out what switches I need for FG flippers. I dismantled the PF and not sure if the switches that were on the flippers were the correct ones.

Thanks,

Brad

380CA53C-4ABC-4638-B177-6E4D42D81C62_1_105_c (resized).jpeg

5A7190B9-6FCF-46A5-A4F6-99713D5C8DE4_1_105_c (resized).jpeg

DE9943C3-6C17-4017-A615-76077368FD64_1_105_c (resized).jpeg

I did mine with Titan’s yellow silicone rings and it plays great - looks great too IMHO.

A19FB93B-ECC1-4794-8548-662619CA9866 (resized).jpeg

26607C4C-32AD-4FE2-9F0B-6CC3CEB5DC9A (resized).jpeg

A71EE5A1-25A4-4BE7-9DB5-0B7A14170B84 (resized).jpeg

Yellow rubbers look GREAT

Been a busy time since Thanksgiving.....

F5976D0B-C631-4AFD-A0C3-A8D69844CF2C.jpeg

C0E76F14-75CA-42A5-B30E-3C2CEDD20038_1_201_a.jpeg

6A4E7E98-55F0-4677-A9CE-E74819252A78.jpeg

EE86A04B-B6E8-43D8-ADA2-9C6FB994469C.jpeg

6741B608-03F4-4DD0-8937-B92B8577D56D.jpeg

ED10E26F-6CAD-4508-9CE5-A885B24FDA6E.jpeg

323029FB-FA2C-4DA2-A01D-115182580E3F.jpeg

5DA5D567-17BF-4E15-91D9-89624E252C91.jpeg

63562196-9BFD-4D61-89BF-3EC23773B480.jpeg

B176FEBB-38D1-4007-B1EC-144B9C7C6D52.jpeg

28B49C04-68FB-4D04-A387-6FE351A0BA94.jpeg

75FF9612-6E5B-497F-B4B0-0DD4711640E0.jpeg

D2F41938-2C85-4466-B1EA-8D0D690E28C9.jpeg

F89FB96F-1BBD-45AB-9969-5564C2F48B18.jpeg

B5E39E16-DE85-4F91-B78C-4A1C3B7BCE9F.jpeg

Why did you go all clear inserts?

Probably so he could customize the color.
I think it’s a great idea

A few of the old ones were starting to disintegrate, so I needed to replace them. I had seen another hardtop done with clear starburst inserts and thought the clear starbursts looked a lot better than just using over original colored inserts. I also didn't like that the original color inserts were a mix of opaque and translucent. I'm planning on using the original color scheme, however just use color LEDs to light up the inserts.

My FG is going to go on route this Tuesday for a 6 month stretch. Wish it luck! I was always a consistent earner (thanks to the Ted movies)

Looks great. Is that a hardtop or ?

Correct....hardtop!

I’m a HUGE fan of hardtop.
There’s a stigma that it looks/plays like an overlay. It plays like a CC playfield! I have one on my space shuttle and LOVE IT

I think I got that sorted out and the drop seems to be working as expected it's not lighting the bonus collect and I can't figure out why.

That’s pretty cool and doesn’t look completely impossible. I’ve always been on the fence. Mine is original with Mylar on about 90% of the PF. But I definitely have issues between the pops and saucer and the typical path worn in the top of the upper. Hmmmmm.
Do you have to tear off everything under the PF?

Have been considering doing so

No, you can do it with just clearing off everything off the top of the playfield and removing all the mechanicals to avoid dust/debris. I went all out clearing above and below as with the insert replacement the existing sockets were in the way, and since they were original Bally I went all in and will be replacing those as well. At that point the only thing left was the wiring harness, and everytime I touched it my fingers were black. Off to the dishwasher it went......

The switch needs to be making good contact to light bonus collect. The drop will work correctly without the switch, but if the switch isn’t properly closing, it won’t light the bonus collect.

I’m thinking of doing clear inserts as well. Could you pretty please post some pictures of how the colored leds looks? And let us know how you like it! Looks like you did a great job on the hardtop install.

That’s encouraging. Now I just have to find a hardtop and the nerve to do it.
Yours is looking great.

Sure thing....once I get there, which may be a while. Back to the office Monday, so the vacation days home just spending time on the pin are coming to an end....

Check with @skypilot, he may be able to source a FG hardtop for you....

Thanks for the tip.

Just joined the club. Got some work to do. But Emperor Ming awaits!

FG pickup1 (resized).jpg

FG pickup 3 (resized).jpg

FG pickup2 (resized).jpg

Congratulations and welcome aboard. Looks like the important stuff is in decent shape!

I need all new switches for my Flash Gordon flippers. When I look at the switches offered from websites none of them look like the original ones that I took off. They are a lot smaller. Will, someone please help me out on this?

Thanks, Brad

If you are talking about your EOS switches, and the contacts are worn, then you will likely need to rebuild them anyways. I would suggest getting a rebuild kit from Pinball Life. You'll need 1 full kit + 1 right side kit:
https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-flipper-rebuild-kit-051980-031988.html

Here are just the EOS switches:
https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-end-of-stroke-switch-normally-closed.html

If you are referring to the cabinet flipper switches, then you'll need:

WLL-SW10A-48
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-leaf-switch-single-contact.html

and

SW-1010A-13 (IIRC)
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-leaf-switch-double-contact.html

Thanks for the quick reply. I bought rebuild kits from pinball resources per Vid's rebuild post. Here are the switches that came with kits. It doesn't seem like the right ones.

D845195B-C02E-4CD3-B7C8-34EB7A543C87_1_105_c (resized).jpeg

I can't remember exactly which switch style is used. I would use the same ones that were on the game prior to the rebuild. I believe you want the Normally Closed switch. I'll see what's on my game.

Can you specify which switches you're replacing?

Keep in mind that FG has a stacked switch design for the right lower flipper assembly that does 2 things:

1) Normal EOS Normal Close Switch functionality
2) Normal Open Switch that closes when the stacked EOS opens to activate the coil for the upper right mini flipper.

Based upon your pic the 4 switches on the left is what you need. Numbering them from left to right 1 -> 5 and assuming #5 is an old EOS switch for comparison:

Left Flipper EOS NC : #1
Right Lower EOS NC stacked with NO for upper activation: #2 & #4
Upper Right Mini EOS: #3

Here are images of the flippers before I took them apart.

LEFT FLIPPER (resized).jpg

RIGHT FLIPPER (resized).jpg

UPPER FLIPPER (resized).jpg

Your flippers have definitely been rebuilt at least once using some non standard parts, and judging by the looks could use that full rebuild kit. Seeing some of those screws they may have even buggered up the baseplate and you may have to replace those as well. The switches you received will work even if they aren't 100% identical in height as long as the flipper crank action will open/close the switch correctly. Best way to tell is to study & maybe even video the original action & engagement and then be able to duplicate it once you rebuild all the mechanical parts. The other thing is to keep track of which wire is going to which leaf of the switch to make sure everything works correctly electrically.

Try the Wood Beast.

Has anyone found any good looking score cards? I love the High Speed and Whirlwind cards that are offered at pinballcards.com.

Anything similar in quality out there?