Anyone have this problem? My upper targets can take a direct hit from the ball and not go down. The work perfectly almost all the time but when hit hard its like they tip backward rather than get pushed back. Hit them more gently, they go down.

Hood DT ?

Sorry, not following.

Show a picture of drop target

It's the common "Bally Brick." If you hit the drop target too hard, it'll bounce right off like nothing happened. Happens in a lot of games though, not just Bally.

Played Flash Gordon at MGC a lot - absolutely love it! Now to find one!

The upper target bank has a flipper aimed right at them so I have not seen it on the other two target banks. Interestingly I also own an Embryon that also has a short range flipper aimed at a triple bank and I have never noticed the same behaviour. The only real difference is the FG targets are new ones. Just a wild guess, if the new ones were more flexible I could see this issue being worse.

After doing the cabinet, I pulled the transformer, power module, the mounting plate, Etc all out of the machine and cleaned everything up and repainted it. I reinstalled everything and just installed the playfield this afternoon and the back box panel light panel. Plug the machine in and turn it on, and I get absolutely nothing. I've checked every fuse in the machine, made sure all the connectors are connected. I have power all the way through the switch up to the connector right before the transformer. Any ideas?

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Can somebody please post a pic of how their right lower flipper switches are wired?

My game never had this connected and was missing the second switch that triggers the upper right flipper when it's activated so I don't have a reference pic.

I assume that the switch that triggers the upper right flipper switch should be closed by the eos switch on the lower right flipper when it opens, correct? But how do the switches mount to the flipper assembly? And which wires are which?

Do the rectifier board voltages all look correct?

I just did a coloured transformer plate myself. Make sure you have solid continuity between the plate and the cabinet braid and the brackets to the plate.

I've checked continuity between braid and plate as well as between brackets and ground, and I have continuity all around. But I just checked test point voltages and I have no voltage at any of them. I can't imagine that the transformer would die just by pulling it out and painting it with high heat paint and reinstalling.

Double check the fuse in the black holder next to connector before the transformer. Sometimes the cap doesn’t alway like to make contact on that too.

If that’s good, start checking the wires on the transformer, to make sure nothing came off or is shorted.

No Bally/Midway pinball's had backing foam in any standup targets.
Only when Williams bought Bally/midway, did the games have the backing foam.

Perfect - thanks.

I would say keep following the path for voltage. Something I haven't seen before, those metal posts on the rectifier board. Could they be shorting traces?

I have already removed the metal posts to rule them out because I was thinking the same thing. Gonna remove the transformer and see if I can see if anything is loose or shorted. Everything worked great prior to removing the playfield, boards, and "power plate" to do the cabinet painting. I did install the metal posts since two out of the three plastic snap in plastic mounts were broken. But again, I have since removed them and it still doesn't work.

Hope this helps!

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Did you check continuity at the fuse holde (1)r? No AC voltages at the rectifier inputs (2)?

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Start at the wall. Is it plugged in? Do you have power at that outlet? Then check the main fuse with the black cap. Make sure the fuse is good and the cap is seated good. Then check to make sure you have power going into the transformer. Then verify you have power coming out of the transformer. Keep following the chain and see where the power stops. But start at the wall and make sure you are getting power there and then work your way down the chain.

I do have continuity at the fuse (1). As far as testing for voltage after the transformer, will any of the wires coming out of the transformer have voltage if its present, or am I testing specific wires?

Thanks to all. FG lives. It turns out that the connector next to the fuse prior to the transformer had one pin that had slid out a bit unnoticed. I pushed it back in and it fired right up. As usual, most problems don't tend to be deep, they tend to be simple and right in front of your face.

It *might*. I'll need to review my setup with that pin in hand and go from there. Away for Easter right now.

Thanks!

It’s alive!

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That looks beautiful. It looks very similar to mine with the Hardtop and the translucent rubbers and red flippers.

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Installed my hardtop this weekend. Looks awesome. Will slowly repopulate and adjust drops this week.

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Looks great. The big question - looks like rattle can clear - yes and if so, what kind? And what grit did you sand the inserts?

Used Rust-o-lium 2x clear. Was happy with the results. Started with 100 and worked my way up to 800.

getting closer to having mine finished! It plays 100% now, just need to finish the cab, trim and add LED’s

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Hi fellow FG owners,

I've just received the new drop targets that I ordered on Ebay from Classic Arcades.

I was under the impression that these were supposed to be hot stamped, but the ones I received have decals on them. The ones I ordered for my Fireball II were actually hot stamped.

Does anybody know the story behind this?

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You should of purchased from pinball resource

So I replaced my backglass with one of the brand new CPR backglass, fully mirrored version. It looks great, but the displays don't quite line up with the display windows now.

Also I know the CPR art is correct, but my original has no art where the strobe light is so it was even extra brite. Am I correct in assuming this was one of the early production backglasses? I don't have the squawk and talk board either I have the other two in the head.

If the seller (and auction) claimed that they are hot stamped and they showed up like this, I would have a case opened for misrepresenting the items and getting a refund. Agreed with Madmax541 I always buy classic repro parts from pbresource. They are hot stamped.

Pinball Resource has the OEM dies from Bally...
However, He did have to remake some of the dies that were missing.

Um, ok...

But: I didn't. And now I'm asking a question here on the forum about people's experiences with this other salesman. That's ok, right?

Thanks for the tip. I might do that. Thing is, the ad doesn't specifically say they are hot stamped. I assumed they would be, because the ad does say this:

CLICK HERE TO SEE A VIDEO OF OUR STATE OF THE ART HOT STAMPER IN ACTION

...and because the bumper caps I once bought for my Bally Playboy from this seller were actually hot stamped.

I asked the seller through Ebay if I've made a wrong assumption. Will let you know the reply.

Good to know. Next time, PBR it shall be. Have they updated their payment options already? I remember it being kind of a hassle to order from them from overseas.

ebay.com link: Bally Flash Gordon Pinball Machine Drop Target Set

Yeah, I just saw that. It is very misleading to state that you have a hot stamper (In action) but that they didn't state specifically that the targets were hot stamped. The assumption is there. At 50+6 shipping, and a negative feedback, I would pursue a refund and get the real thing from PB resource. They are $4.00 each plus shipping from Steve. Cheaper and the real deal.

They still do it old school. phone or email order, pay them by check once you receive the goods.

Update: I got a reply from the seller. He states that his hot stamp is broken and offers a refund. I've sent him a reply, saying that I'd like a full refund. But also asking if the refund covers the (high) international shipping costs. Curious how he will reply.

Still looking for solutions to this saucer up kicker problem if anyone can help. I’ve tried bending/adjusting the kicker arm to no avail. I’ve double checked the coils are correct. I removed the coil spacer thing to introduce some more “slop”. Ball still pops up into glass. 90% of time it bounces straight back to saucer too...boring.

Strange that it wouldn't be more directional. Maybe try adding a few washers between the saucer mech and the underside of the PF to lower it a bit.?

And post a few pics of how it looks mounted, possible it's mounted "backwards? vs how it was orientated originally?

As far as I can tell the mechanism is symmetrical?

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Maybe test the resistance on the coil to rule out a short in the windings? What about the plunger tip, not deformed?

I have not had a chance to play with mine yet. In my case it plays fine, it hits the glass and actually lands almost on the single target, way up the upper playfield.

Classic arcades is poor quality in general.

Go after him on Ebay. request a return and he will have to send you a shipping label to return the items and refund all your payment including the high shipping cost you paid. This guy sells a lot of bad quality products.

Upkicker coil reading at 14 Ohms. According to this table (https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html), that is normal for an AO-27-1300 coil.

The tip of the arm itself is not deformed in any way.