PinballLife. It is billet aluminum. Seems to work fine. I haven't played another FG to know if there is a difference.

Where can I find a replacement flipper for the upper right smaller flipper (I think 2 inches)? Also, where can I find a rebuild kit for the same? Thank You in Advance

Pbresource should have everything you need.

Anyone have spare Ball guides for the in/outlanes? I'm looking for replacements on both sides. Part number M-121-59.

I think Cliffy makes them.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/

Sorry, meant the wire guides before the metal flipper ones.

This thread may be helpful
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wire-ball-guide-help

Looks like I'll be making my own then. Nice find.

Working through a couple small issues with my FG. All my GI is working with the exception of these four bulbs. They flash on upon startup, but then they all go out at the same time. When I check voltage compared to other GI, all four read differently than anything else. Any thoughts is far as a direction to troubleshoot?

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Have you checked the wired connections on all of them? They might be wired in a chain, and if something "upstream" is loose, it may affect the bulbs "downstream."

First Try using regular non led lamps.
If they work then you may want to get this piggyback board:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/MA-09-011-052

I think these are driven by the lamp drive board located on the back of the backbox door.There might be a bad transistor.

Are those the ones under the Ming plastics? If so, they only light up during certain times during play. That's why they turn on when first powered up. You should also see them cycle during attract.

If they are controlled lamps, they should work under test mode. If not, then they should be lit as GI. Different approaches depending in what kind of lamps they are. I cant remember off hand which ones they are but knowing that would help troubleshooting.

Yes. They are the ones under the Ming plastic. I'll have to see what they do during attract mode. But when the game initially boots up they come on and then they go off.

My bad. When I actually credit a game, those four lights do come on.

http://www.actionpinball.com/

Those are controlled lamps, controlled as two pairs although in game play they always blink together. They are often on steady but when Ming speaks, they blink together. As others stated they should blink in lamp test mode.

The Ming lights are fine. But working through a couple other small electrical gremlins. With the machine sitting in attract mode, if you trigger the switch for the saucer, the solenoid will engage. The other strange occurrence is the single drop target in the upper playfield, again while in attract mode, manually dropping the target has sometimes credited a game. Also once a game has been credited, sometimes hitting the right flipper will score 10000 points and create sound. I've traced wires under the playfield, but so far, have not found any that are crossed or touching or chafed. Not quite sure of a direction to troubleshoot in after looking at wires.

This is normal. It is that way to make sure the ball is kicked back to the through at the end of the game (if a tilt occurred).

Check your switches. If you're getting a credit, I would suspect the credit switches in the coin door may not be adjusted correctly. If you're getting points, there's a switch that is gapped too closely and the vibrations are causing the switch to make contact.

I keep checking switches and readjusting if I find something that looks like its too close. So I must be overlooking something switch wise. I need to pull the door all apart and clean everything and I want to rebuild the coil there is well.

you are aware there are diagnostics in the game right? You should be using the lights, coils, and switch tests for your last few posts. Look at the menu in the manual to see how using the diagnostics button cycles through tests and then adjustments and audits.

Sounds like you could have some switch matrix issues.. shorts or diode issues.

Yes. During switch test. I'm not finding any stuck switches, which is why I'm a bit perplexed.

because you're describing not stuck switches, but issues with multiple switches triggering when one or more switches are tripped. This is classic switch matrix issues due to diode issues.

https://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/repair-guides/146-switch-matrix-theory-and-troubleshooting

Bally games have the extra fun that some switches have the small capacitors that can fail and will act as a short as well. People snip one leg when they think that is the problem.. but that normally shows as a stuck switch when its the capacitor.

@flynnibus. Thank you. That may explain some of my symptoms. Should I start testing diodes with the switches I've had issues with? All of the small capacitors are connected currently . And again, I'm not showing stuck switches in switch tests. Every pin I play with, I seem to learn something new as far as testing, troubleshooting, Etc.

When the game is playing, do you get any false firing of pop bumpers or slings?

No. No false firings.

Do any of the switches have the original old caps on them? They are usually green.

Hey guys I’m finishing up my restore project FG that I traded for and I just realized that I’m missing the entire ball kickout coil mechanism.

I don’t have any of it, no mounting bracket, no coil, and no metal kick arm to push the ball out of the trough and into the shooter lane.

Does anyone know if these parts are available anywhere?

I found one switch with a green. Everything else is red.

Not to speak too soon, but I may have found my phantom switch issue. I had a game started and I opened the coin door. When I closed it, it started scoring and making sounds. Kept trying it and it kept doing the same. Upon further inspection, my left coin chute was contacting the kickout switch. I tweaked the switch contacts a bit and have played several games without any further issues. I will play it some more to see if anything else acts up.

eBay

Been working with mjalexan on getting my game ready for the hardtop and cabinet restoration. Been documenting it via Instagram mostly.
Cleared it with SprayMax 2k after getting it all sanded and prepped. Looking forward to laying the hardtop itself down on it.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BvAdH9OFBWb/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BvBrQEwFb9L/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BvFPqGrlvEu/

Thanks guys!

Fortunately I was able to find mine yesterday after an extensive search. That's the problem when you start a project like this and don't finish it for a couple of years, the parts can go for a walk.

I started restoring my STTNG and life got in the way. Eight years later, I was done. Found all the parts.

...I stripped my IJ PF about 3.5 years ago to have it clear-coated and it's next on the list after FG.

FG is coming along great. Seems to be playing well and since I found the coin chute touching the kickout switch, no issues with phantom scoring. I do have one insert bulb out. The Super Bonus 100000 ring of lights, the #7 bulb is not working. I have replaced with a new socket but it is still not working. I can jump it with a test lead from another bulb and it works fine. Nothing is screaming incorrect. The other issue is the coil on the coin door is very noisy and vibrates a fair amount. Almost like the bar that runs from it through the coin mechs needs some sort of cushion. Aside from those issues and needing to refinish the faded cabinet, it is pretty much "there".

Finally finished the hardtop install, now just putting everything back together after 2 years of being torn apart. The clear inserts look awesome with the hardtop

7FEF5ECC-D972-404D-8596-0F816F4E382E (resized).jpeg

I'm still trying to hold out for a CPR re-release, but that does look good. The problem for me is that, it would be playing on a plastic surface instead of a cleared wood surface, as I don't particularly care for playing on playfield protectors.

Thanks for posting this pic, it looks fantastic! Love the clear inserts and may head that way as well!! Would you mind sharing your shopping list of inserts and who you got them from?

Anyone out there have a CPR Flash Gordon mirrored backglass? The one currently in my game looks okay but then you get close and realize Sam Jones has leprosy or something as it is delaminated in the back in a really weird way.

Anyway since we are doing the hardtop and restoring the cabinet I figured it may be nice to make the glass look great again as well.

I got the rollover housings and insert buttons from Marco specialties #03-7538-13, 03-7537-05. All other inserts were from pinballlife: I couldn’t find the correct size arrows in clear so I reused the all the origional arrow inserts from the game. I don’t remember the exact quantity’s I used. I know I ordered extras on most of those inserts so I can’t recall what the game actually takes of each
F9466355-7B3B-4B77-979C-749D40604870 (resized).jpeg

This should help. Looks like 33 of the 3/4”, 14 of the 1” and 7 of the star rollovers and inserts, according to my Instagram pic from when I did it.
CCB87DED-05E3-451C-A90A-70195F694ECB (resized).jpeg

Awesome!!!! Thanks for the info!!!

It's really very easy. I used my Dremel tool and a sandpaper drum like yours and it took no time at all and I had no issues. Just take your time and don't rush.

My FG is getting closer to being playable! After doing some board work and bench testing on the MPU and Driver boards, I turned on the machine for the first time in over 10 years and surprisingly almost everything is working. I have 2 flippers out, I had one locked coil on the upper pop and a few switches that need adjusting. Hopefully will have it fully playable by the weekend!

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I'm in the process of hardtopping my Flash Gordon and I'd been trying to figure out how I was going to address this issue. Did you have any issues with the edges being rough, or did the Dremel/sandpaper drum method smooth it out pretty well?

No issues. They came out nice and smooth. Just a note about install. Once you epoxy in place, tilt the playfield on its side so the inserts dont settle below the hardtop surface as the epoxy dries. I did have a couple of mine sink below the surface a tad.