(Topic ID: 65903)
Linked Games
Flash Gordon
Bally, 1981-
Flash Gordon
Bell Games, 1981
Topic Gallery
Covington, LA
3 weeks later
Quoted from radium:Bought a Flash Gordon project for $400 a few years ago and have been slowly hunting down parts to restore it. With this hardtop I finally have everything! Even found a perfect original backglass.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice Hardtop 
Picked this up several months ago and finally got around to getting it from my buddy's garage and into my basement. It needs a serious cleanup and lots of TLC. Comes with a spare playfield that I may hardtop. It needs a backglass and led displays since it has none. Just had the soundboard rebuilt and have to do some board work from acid damage. It will be somewhat of a long road, but hopefully well worth it in the end. Obviously needs paint and stencils as well but that may wait.
20181230_212430 (resized).jpg20181230_212458 (resized).jpg20181230_212441 (resized).jpg20181230_212502 (resized).jpg20181230_213956 (resized).jpg20181230_212446 (resized).jpg20181230_213939 (resized).jpg20181230_213945 (resized).jpg20181230_213308 (resized).jpg20181230_212515 (resized).jpg20181230_214009 (resized).jpgQuoted from epeabs:I may hardtop
Get one now if you plan on doing this. FG Hardtops are limited to what I have in Stock. I do not plan on producing more.
Quoted from Skypilot:Get one now if you plan on doing this. FG Hardtops are limited to what I have in Stock. I do not plan on producing more.
I Would love to pick up a Flash Gordon Hard Top. Are there any more available, if so let me know. Thanks!
I'd love to find a player's condition Flash Gordon (or a project) within a few hours drive of Kalamazoo....anyone know of anything available? anyone? Bueller?
Starting to order some parts for my FG. I will be rebuilding the three flippers with kits from Pinballlife. I don't find any drop target rebuild kits around, but mine obviously need work. Does anyone know which coil sleeves are used for the drop target coils? They look to be a larger diameter than "usual". I have not taken one apart yet to measure. Prefer to order from Pinballlife if possible since I have a sizable cart started.
Quoted from epeabs:Starting to order some parts for my FG. I will be rebuilding the three flippers with kits from Pinballlife. I don't find any drop target rebuild kits around, but mine obviously need work. Does anyone know which coil sleeves are used for the drop target coils? They look to be a larger diameter than "usual". I have not taken one apart yet to measure. Prefer to order from Pinballlife if possible since I have a sizable cart started.
They must have recently just added rebuild kits for this era game. When I did my Ballys, they didn't have them...When I shop out this era game, I usually go to pbresource.com as they have more of the parts needed for these older games. For the drop target coil sleeves, I believe you can use the large diameter sleeve WLL-03-7068. Check out pics here: http://www.pbresource.com/coilsleeve.html
I'm not sure the pinball life has this diameter sleeve, but you can always email Terry to ask him.
Quoted from epeabs:Starting to order some parts for my FG. I will be rebuilding the three flippers with kits from Pinballlife. I don't find any drop target rebuild kits around, but mine obviously need work. Does anyone know which coil sleeves are used for the drop target coils? They look to be a larger diameter than "usual". I have not taken one apart yet to measure. Prefer to order from Pinballlife if possible since I have a sizable cart started.
I believe the correct coil for the large drop target reset (n-prefix) is a 5/8" diameter by 2" length. But you can buy the 2 3/8" length, and trim it down.
I recently used these for Centaur drop assemblies and should be the same in Flash Gordon.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/0017-00041-0673
1 week later
Can someone tell me why a previous owner would have made these modifications. Both slingshot assemblies have been moved about 3/8" towards the outside of the playfield. The right flipper assembly has been re-angled to approximately match the angle of the left flipper. It could be as simple as worn out mounting holes but I'm not sure yet.
FG right flipper mount moved (resized).jpgFG slingshots moved out (resized).jpgLooking at the wallered out holes next to the slingshots & flipper plate that is exactly why they moved them, easier and quicker for a field tech to repair that way than the right way......
I'm going with the idea that one of the previous owners (or operators) (from the few tokens in the coins box, I believe this pin may have gone through Funworld in Nashua, NH) decided to remount instead of fixing the issue at hand. That said, I have drilled and doweled the blown out mounting holes. But, I am starting to think I should have used my "secondary" playfield to Hardtop. I am currently switching all the insert sockets from the "secondary" playfield to the "primary" due to major surface rust. But I'm thinking that my initial thought that that my "secondary" was worse than my "primary" may have not been the best choice. Oh well, too late now. Just keep rolling forward in the direction I am heading, can't go back. I have "doweled" the blown out slingshot and flipper mounts which would not have needed to be done on the "secondary" playfield. After flipper rebuilds and drop target rebuilds, we should be good to Hardtop.
20190120_132408 (resized).jpg20190120_195605 (resized).jpg20190122_191812 (resized).jpg20190122_191815 (resized).jpg20190122_191820 (resized).jpg20190122_191823 (resized).jpgThis may be a dumb question, but I still need an answer.
What's the story with the Bell Games version of Flash Gordon.
Any idea how many were made?
Any idea if they had a "metal overlay cabinet upgrade" for Flash Gordon?
Quoted from ss-pinball:This may be a dumb question, but I still need an answer.
What's the story with the Bell Games version of Flash Gordon.
Any idea how many were made?
Any idea if they had a "metal overlay cabinet upgrade" for Flash Gordon?
https://www.tilt.it/bell.htm
Here is a Bell games Flash Gordon project game that was for sale in Australia.
Looks like a Bally FG backglass a Bell games playfield & the transformer/power supply that doesn't look like a Bally. Cabinet isn't a Flash Gordon cabinet.
https://www.facebook.com/pinmem/photos/pcb.1800658910016532/1800657706683319/?type=3&theater
2 weeks later
Quoted from Captive_Ball:Making fast work of it....silver baby bat, interesting
I was having a hard time finding the replacement flipper for the upper playfield (several vendors where out of stock). So I went with the aluminum 2 inch. A tad short at the moment but we'll see how it works.
Quoted from epeabs:Underneath is completely populated, and topside is almost complete. Rebuilt all the drop targets, flippers, coil sleeves in everything.
Did you leave the bottom side populated when you stripped and sanded the topside? Does yours have cracked inserts and did you replace them?
Quoted from FatPanda:Did you leave the bottom side populated when you stripped and sanded the topside? Does yours have cracked inserts and did you replace them?
I left the bottom 80% populated. I removed the drops The Flipper assemblies the slingshots. I also had a donor play field that I switched out the entire light sockets due to rust. In hindsight, I should have just used the other Playfield. But it's too late now. I also had to remount my flippers because they had been moved because of hogged out holes, and the slingshots with the same way. I replaced all of the clear inserts on the play field because they were all cracked and crazed and once the new ones were installed I buffed them all out instead of clearing.
Quoted from epeabs:I left the bottom 80% populated. I removed the drops The Flipper assemblies the slingshots. I also had a donor play field that I switched out the entire light sockets due to rust. In hindsight, I should have just used the other Playfield. But it's too late now. I also had to remount my flippers because they had been moved because of hogged out holes, and the slingshots with the same way. I replaced all of the clear inserts on the play field because they were all cracked and crazed and once the new ones were installed I buffed them all out instead of clearing.
Thanks. I've contemplated getting a hard top or waiting for a CPR rerun. It might be a LONG while before CPR does their digital printing rerun. I know the FG hardtops are limited in number, so I may have to make that decision sooner rather than later, if any are still available. The inserts on my game are cracking/crazing as well, so if I go this route, I will probably have to replace them all before sanding the playfield down.
Quoted from FatPanda:Thanks. I've contemplated getting a hard top or waiting for a CPR rerun. It might be a LONG while before CPR does their digital printing rerun. I know the FG hardtops are limited in number, so I may have to make that decision sooner rather than later, if any are still available. The inserts on my game are cracking/crazing as well, so if I go this route, I will probably have to replace them all before sanding the playfield down.
I mentioned replacing my inserts in another thread and was told the crazing is totally normal. Haven't decided yet if I will replace them anyway. Also haven't checked if all the colors/sizes are available anywhere.
Quoted from radium:I mentioned replacing my inserts in another thread and was told the crazing is totally normal. Haven't decided yet if I will replace them anyway. Also haven't checked if all the colors/sizes are available anywhere.
I think for the most part you could probably go with clear inserts and colored LEDs to match the original. I don't think there are any "special" inserts, though I can't remember off the top of my head.
Quoted from epeabs:Underneath is completely populated, and topside is almost complete. Rebuilt all the drop targets, flippers, coil sleeves in everything.
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Looks great! Any problems putting the new star rollover targets in?
Quoted from radium:I mentioned replacing my inserts in another thread and was told the crazing is totally normal. Haven't decided yet if I will replace them anyway. Also haven't checked if all the colors/sizes are available anywhere.
I did not replace the opaque inserts as the crazing is not really noticeable. The clear inserts were horrible. When the new inserts come you have to sand them down flat because they are far from flat. Then you need to make the decision to sand, then clear, or sand up until about 2000 grit then polish. I went the polish route because I did not want the clear to accent any crazing that was there. I will say the inserts don't have much crazing to them and are pretty clear. PinballLife had a great assortment of inserts available. I did need to substitute a couple starburst style due to quantity available, and I chose a few "jewel" versions to break it up.
Quoted from rack-em-up:Looks great! Any problems putting the new star rollover targets in?
No problems grinding out the star rollover holes. Installation was straight forward. The only issue I ran into was that the hardtop adds height to the star rollover insert hole. So the insert wants to sink lower into the hole. I was able to keep a few level with the surface, but a few of them ended up lower. I am hoping they don't affect gameplay.
Quoted from epeabs:No problems grinding out the star rollover holes. Installation was straight forward. The only issue I ran into was that the hardtop adds height to the star rollover insert hole. So the insert wants to sink lower into the hole. I was able to keep a few level with the surface, but a few of them ended up lower. I am hoping they don't affect gameplay.
I use a 2 part epoxy to glue them in. I then place the playfield on its edge and prop it up until dry.This keeps the roll-overs from moving. When appling the adhesive I'm very careful to brush it into the hole just below the top so as not to have it hit the finished surface.
Quoted from Skypilot:I use a 2 part epoxy to glue them in. I then place the playfield on its edge and prop it up until dry.This keeps the roll-overs from moving. When appling the adhesive I'm very careful to brush it into the hole just below the top so as not to have it hit the finished surface.
Ah. I should have flipped it up on the rotisserie and cured my issue. The only way I could fix it now would be to bust out all the inserts and redo them.
Quoted from epeabs:I was having a hard time finding the replacement flipper for the upper playfield (several vendors where out of stock). So I went with the aluminum 2 inch. A tad short at the moment but we'll see how it works.
PBR showing the correct bats in stock?
http://pbresource.com/flippers.html#2in
#C609-SETX Black “Flipper:
Making some headway. Playfield is installed in the cabinet with new CPR plastics and Reese Rails and 2pac cleared shooter lane. Initially fired it up with the new NVRAM.WEEBLY mpu. My GI is currently not working, 90% of my inserts are, and backbox lights probably 40%. I did install all LEDs, but have not installed Comet's "Bally/Stern LED adapters" which may be a possible problem. It seems to want to credit a game, but doesn't kick ball to shooter lane, and flippers don't work. I haven't had time to delve into troubleshooting it yet. A CPR repro backglass "non mirrored" is on order. I will have to re-stencil and paint the cabinet come spring when it is warmer because it looks horrible compared to the playfield.
20190223_204756 (resized).jpgQuoted from epeabs:Making some headway. Playfield is installed in the cabinet with new CPR plastics and Reese Rails and 2pac cleared shooter lane. Initially fired it up with the new NVRAM.WEEBLY mpu. My GI is currently not working, 90% of my inserts are, and backbox lights probably 40%. I did install all LEDs, but have not installed Comet's "Bally/Stern LED adapters" which may be a possible problem. It seems to want to credit a game, but doesn't kick ball to shooter lane, and flippers don't work. I haven't had time to delve into troubleshooting it yet. A CPR repro backglass "non mirrored" is on order. I will have to re-stencil and paint the cabinet come spring when it is warmer because it looks horrible compared to the playfield.
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That looks great. I did a standard cabinet repaint on mine, and it made a world of difference.
Want to see a ridiculously amazing cabinet paint job someone did, go to
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-flash-gordon-restoration-and-customization/page/4?gallery#g
Quoted from zahner:That looks great. I did a standard cabinet repaint on mine, and it made a world of difference.
Want to see a ridiculously amazing cabinet paint job someone did, go to
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-flash-gordon-restoration-and-customization/page/4?gallery#g
Thank you. I have followed that "custom" thread. Incredible work and gorgeous.
Well I'm still moving forward with completion of FG. A few current issues I'm trying to work through. I keep blowing F5 fuse on the power supply. It will not blow if the playfield connector is not installed. Once installed it didn't instantly blow the fuse. I thought I had it solved when I hit the right flipper and the fuse blew. So I installed another fuse and had the playfield lifted. I turned on the machine and once it booted the fuse blew. So maybe not specifically related to the right flipper. But I'm assuming something grounded do to the playfield being in the upright position. I've attached a photo of my right flipper assembly. Anyone see any issues with wiring?
20190301_173932 (resized).jpgQuoted from epeabs:Well I'm still moving forward with completion of FG. A few current issues I'm trying to work through. I keep blowing F5 fuse on the power supply. It will not blow if the playfield connector is not installed. Once installed it didn't instantly blow the fuse. I thought I had it solved when I hit the right flipper and the fuse blew. So I installed another fuse and had the playfield lifted. I turned on the machine and once it booted the fuse blew. So maybe not specifically related to the right flipper. But I'm assuming something grounded do to the playfield being in the upright position. I've attached a photo of my right flipper assembly. Anyone see any issues with wiring?
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There's a way to set up a breaker so that you're not blowing through fuses so quickly (pun intended). You'll have to look up what to get and how to set it up, but would be worth the effort to help troubleshoot.
Quoted from FatPanda:There's a way to set up a breaker so that you're not blowing through fuses so quickly (pun intended). You'll have to look up what to get and how to set it up, but would be worth the effort to help troubleshoot.
I'll have to research that option. Thx
Quoted from epeabs:Well I'm still moving forward with completion of FG. A few current issues I'm trying to work through. I keep blowing F5 fuse on the power supply. It will not blow if the playfield connector is not installed. Once installed it didn't instantly blow the fuse. I thought I had it solved when I hit the right flipper and the fuse blew. So I installed another fuse and had the playfield lifted. I turned on the machine and once it booted the fuse blew. So maybe not specifically related to the right flipper. But I'm assuming something grounded do to the playfield being in the upright position. I've attached a photo of my right flipper assembly. Anyone see any issues with wiring?
[quoted image]
F5 is the fuse for your general illumination bus. Although it also touches other connectors, you said it doesn’t blow when you unplug the playfield. This should be connector J1. Pins J1-1 and J1-4 go to the general illumination bus.
It could be a bad bulb, bad socket or a socket shorting on something else. If it blows when you hit the flippers, it’s probably shorting on something else.
Here’s the short that was plagueing the previous owner of my machine. The power distribution wire ran between a G.I. socket and a controlled lamp socket that were too close and the wire was not protected with shrink tube. Every time the game booted, the fuse would blow.
76368DC3-7694-4DD1-94E5-ADC531DC0626 (resized).jpegQuoted from tktlwyr:F5 is the fuse for your general illumination bus. Although it also touches other connectors, you said it doesn’t blow when you unplug the playfield. This should be connector J1. Pins J1-1 and J1-4 go to the general illumination bus.
It could be a bad bulb, bad socket or a socket shorting on something else. If it blows when you hit the flippers, it’s probably shorting on something else.
Here’s the short that was plagueing the previous owner of my machine. The power distribution wire ran between a G.I. socket and a controlled lamp socket that were too close and the wire was not protected with shrink tube. Every time the game booted, the fuse would blow. [quoted image]
I don't want to speak too soon, but I may have found my demon. I was scrutinizing the underside of the playfield and found several switches that the solder connections had been bumped and were close to touching. I have replaced the F5 fuse and so far, it has not blown while playing several games. I have GI, sound, and all inserts. I have to tweak my rollovers as I don't think they are working at the moment. I also realized I placed my flipper wire connections at the coil stop end, because that is how I removed them. So that will be another project. It looks like you bought that beautiful FG in Florida a couple months back. Congratulations @tktlwyer.
Quoted from epeabs:I don't want to speak too soon, but I may have found my demon. I was scrutinizing the underside of the playfield and found several switches that the solder connections had been bumped and were close to touching. I have replaced the F5 fuse and so far, it has not blown while playing several games. I have GI, sound, and all inserts. I have to tweak my rollovers as I don't think they are working at the moment. I also realized I placed my flipper wire connections at the coil stop end, because that is how I removed them. So that will be another project. It looks like you bought that beautiful FG in Florida a couple months back. Congratulations @tktlwyer.
Glad you found the problem. They can be a bitch to find.
Yes, mine was the game from around Xmas time. Thank you! I made him a very fair offer plus a transformer that he needed to get his TAF running. The problems the game had were unrelated to him plugging the small transformer into the wrong plug on the power supply. The short I showed above, a bad bulb in the strobe board and a bunch of misadjusted switches...including the rollovers. It’s playing 100% right now but there a few other issues I need to address. 
I'm putting a project PF back together for a game I traded for, so I don't have much documentation on what the PF looked like before it was stripped to have an overlay installed.
Was wondering if anyone can let me know where the brass "plastic holder" type screws are supposed to go vs. the silver ones, or are they interchangeable? Also, are the screws (2 shown in the centre below) without threads near the heads for the rails?
Screws (resized).JPGI just reassembled my top side after a hard top installation. The brass studs are used where there is a clear plastic below the silk-screened Plastics. Behind the three Bank drop Targets on the upper Playfield and on the right side of the upper Playfield behind the two-star rollovers. The other two I believe are under the try the wood Beast plastic. You should have some gray plastic Half Inch spacers that go on top of the clear plastic piece.
20190218_221745 (resized).jpg20190221_223716 (resized).jpg20190222_063301 (resized).jpgQuoted from epeabs:I just reassembled my top side after a hard top installation. The brass studs are used where there is a clear plastic below the silk-screened Plastics. Behind the three Bank drop Targets on the upper Playfield and on the right side of the upper Playfield behind the two-star rollovers. The other two I believe are under the try the wood Beast plastic. You should have some gray plastic Half Inch spacers that go on top of the clear plastic piece.
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That hardtop looks amazing!
Thanks a bunch.
Quoted from Fytr:I'm putting a project PF back together for a game I traded for, so I don't have much documentation on what the PF looked like before it was stripped to have an overlay installed.
Was wondering if anyone can let me know where the brass "plastic holder" type screws are supposed to go vs. the silver ones, or are they interchangeable? Also, are the screws (2 shown in the centre below) without threads near the heads for the rails?[quoted image]
Couple more pictures. And I think your middle screws are for rails.
20190305_180210 (resized).jpg20190305_180219 (resized).jpgQuoted from epeabs:Couple more pictures. And I think your middle screws are for rails.
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Much appreciated! 
Quoted from epeabs:Couple more pictures. And I think your middle screws are for rails.
Where'd you get the 2" silver flipper? Looks good and thinking about do that to mine, since I'm in the process of doing a hardtop as well.
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