Flash Gordon
Bally, 1981
Flash Gordon
Bell Games, 1981Quoted from Captive_Ball:I'll have to take a look at that...thanks for the info. Do you happen to have a link to that post or tell me which thread to look for it?
Yeah man. Right here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/taxi-2018-hep/page/10#post-4207373
I asked about doing it on TWD, since it is is pretty normal for that game. But thankfully, it was remedied by Titan's thin flipper rubber.
So I aligned the flippers so the hole is lined up with the bottom edge of the flipper, instead of being centered on the flipper tip, and it plays MUCH better now. That alignment happens to line up the flipper with the ball guides. Next question is, what do you have your Dip Switches set at? I started off with all "Conservative" setting but then moved them to "Recommended Settings" in the manual. Thinking about moving them back.
Also, what slope do you have yours set at? Mine is right around 6.5 right now, but thinking about going all the way up in the back, or to about 7.5? I like it fast and deadly. No mercy! 
Whatever the recommended settings are in the manual. I'll get a pic of it when i get home, or you could look it up on IPDB.
Quoted from wm6929:thought 6.5 was a bit too much for the early SS games.
What are your dip settings?
With the dipswitch ON, it retains lit shots from ball to ball. If it is off, it does not, so making it harder to get 2X playfield, Lit drop targets, etc.
I've learned that over that last couple days, even with the switches on, I can barely break 1 mil. that 1.5 Mil game I had must have been a fluke... 
Quoted from flynnibus:Making sacrafices and tearing into FG so future pinheads can get rails easy from reese rails
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you......I was one of the fellows that reached out to Reese about a month ago inquiring about a set of these. You are a true friend of the crown.
Quoted from Captive_Ball:Thank you, Thank you, Thank you......I was one of the fellows that reached out to Reese about a month ago inquiring about a set of these. You are a true friend of the crown.
Dilly dilly
Quoted from Captive_Ball:Pinside ad for a new CPR playfield
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/63379
Thanks! Sent him a PM about selling since he's listing specifically for a trade.
Anyone install a nbii recently. Just curious if there was any new firmware that allows us to use sounds of any length? Or are we still limited to the length of the original stock sound?
http://www.steflip.fr/index.php?file=Boutique&op=art&catid=8&artid=146
Quoted from FatPanda:Thanks! Sent him a PM about selling since he's listing specifically for a trade.
I sent him a message over a week ago, does not respond for some reason. Why do people do that???
Quoted from timab2000:I sent him a message over a week ago, does not respond for some reason. Why do people do that???
There was "sale pending" when I looked last. Also, he wanted quite a bit for the PF, so i politely declined 
Quoted from FatPanda:There was "sale pending" when I looked last. Also, he wanted quite a bit for the PF, so i politely declined
How much???
I would love to see another run. Maybe just a small hand grenade. I wonder if they would be interested if enough of us sent in requests?
BTW, I also asked the person selling the playfield what he wanted for it. Just to be fair, it included shipping and - I think - a set of plastics. Ultimately a bit too rich for my blood, so I too politely declined. He did immediately reply to me.
Im wondering if anyone could lend me some knowledge on some issues im having with my FG after putting it back together.
Game boots and plays but only a few solenoids are working(flippers, drop resets, and saucer eject down) and the game will reset if the left pop bumper is activated. I dont know if its relted at all but the BG controlled lamps are inop as well.
I have ~44v at all coils, switch test no stuck switches and all fuses are good. If I jump the transistors to gnd on the driver board, coils Q1-Q6 will fire and the relay for Q15 activates as well but nothing else.
The game has been apart for over a year now while i worked on the cab and a pf swap. I realized im not getting to the pf swap anytime soon but I really want to ply this game again.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Pull the playfield fuse (depowers solenoids) now you can check if any switches actually cause a reset like the left pop bumper. This will isolate switching issues from the high power mechanism issues. You need to look carefully at which backglass lights are not working. The Aux lighting board drives lights on the insert as well as a few on the playfield. Are the Aux board lights on the playfield working? Its possible because the power feed for them comes from the PF and on the insert those ones have a different power feed. The Aux board only grounds them so lights in one place can be working with the others not working. Or is the power to the Aux board itself missing in which case none of its lights will be working (PF or insert).
On my FG I had an issue where the harness that pivots between the door and the head was tugging on a pin feeding the Aux board causing flakey behaviour.
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:Pull the playfield fuse (depowers solenoids) now you can check if any switches actually cause a reset like the left pop bumper. This will isolate switching issues from the high power mechanism issues. You need to look carefully at which backglass lights are not working. The Aux lighting board drives lights on the insert as well as a few on the playfield. Are the Aux board lights on the playfield working? Its possible because the power feed for them comes from the PF and on the insert those ones have a different power feed. The Aux board only grounds them so lights in one place can be working with the others not working. Or is the power to the Aux board itself missing in which case none of its lights will be working (PF or insert).
On my FG I had an issue where the harness that pivots between the door and the head was tugging on a pin feeding the Aux board causing flakey behaviour.
Thanks, ill pull the pf fuse and check it out tonight. All my insert lights work but the lights behind “Flash Gordon” letters in backbox are inop.
Quoted from Spitfiren8:Thanks, ill pull the pf fuse and check it out tonight. All my insert lights work but the lights behind “Flash Gordon” letters in backbox are inop.
Those are all powered by the Aux board. Check the two clock inserts in the playfield they come the same board as do the upper play field roll overs that blink.
Nice ball one.....the other 3 balls all look like standard FG punishment....especially loosing the ball down the right outlane after making a good shot to the inline drops. 
Great score....could sense your happiness through a few remarks during that first ball 
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:Pull the playfield fuse (depowers solenoids) now you can check if any switches actually cause a reset like the left pop bumper. This will isolate switching issues from the high power mechanism issues. You need to look carefully at which backglass lights are not working. The Aux lighting board drives lights on the insert as well as a few on the playfield. Are the Aux board lights on the playfield working? Its possible because the power feed for them comes from the PF and on the insert those ones have a different power feed. The Aux board only grounds them so lights in one place can be working with the others not working. Or is the power to the Aux board itself missing in which case none of its lights will be working (PF or insert).
On my FG I had an issue where the harness that pivots between the door and the head was tugging on a pin feeding the Aux board causing flakey behaviour.
So I pulled the under pf fuse and the game still resets if the left pop switch is activated, this is the only switch that causes a reset. Under pf wiring looks fine.
I have a feeling i need to repin all my connectors. Can i swap in my Medusa mpu to troubleshoot or will that cause any issues? I already slaved in the solenoid driver from medusa and the same issues were persistant.
Very hard to understand how a single switch can cause that. Nothing similar from the other switches on the same column or row of the matrix? Is it like hitting the slam switch? All other switches score normally? Make sure there is no continuity between the switch leads and the solenoid power lines.
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:Very hard to understand how a single switch can cause that. Nothing similar from the other switches on the same column or row of the matrix? Is it like hitting the slam switch? All other switches score normally? Make sure there is no continuity between the switch leads and the solenoid power lines.
It doesnt go into tilt it just resets. All other switches score normally and dont cause a reset.
This may be a rabbit hole but the slam switch resets the machine, different than a tilt. Most playfields have a slam switch near the bottom middle oriented to trigger if the machine is dropped. Whether that switch is there or not, the matrix believes it was triggered. If it is there, try that switch, you should get the same reset. You could try disconnecting either the column or row that the bumper may share with it.
Quoted from Spitfiren8:So I pulled the under pf fuse and the game still resets if the left pop switch is activated, this is the only switch that causes a reset. Under pf wiring looks fine.
I have a feeling i need to repin all my connectors. Can i swap in my Medusa mpu to troubleshoot or will that cause any issues? I already slaved in the solenoid driver from medusa and the same issues were persistant.
If you disconnect the cabinet, coin door, and pf slam tilt switches, does triggering the left pop bumper still cause a reset? Is there a diode connected on the pop bumper switches?
Quoted from Tallon:No one is going to mention the new y5f cap that’s marked 12v? Ok I’ll keep watching
Are these incorrect? The same caps are on the other switches as well. I thought they were original?
Quoted from Tallon:No one is going to mention the new y5f cap that’s marked 12v? Ok I’ll keep watching
I'm pretty sure those are all original as I swapped a bunch out of my own game due to phantom switch hits.
Ok. Just throwing it out there. Pretty sure they are suppose to be 50v not 12v. Not sure if that could cause the phantom switch but....
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacement-switch-capacitorolder-bally-pins
Tried to search for the stand up target on the upper playfield with no luck. Part number is ASE-2911-21, does anyone have a link to purchase one, or know a suitable replacement?
Quoted from Skypilot:So I’m trying to figure out ways to make my flash Gordon play faster. Do you think the wheels will help?
What’s that I see on the bench behind FG? Could it be!? Is it real!!?
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