So I've always wanted a flash Gordon. One finally popped up someone local for very cheap price. It was described as a project. It is a very rough project. I may have finally gotten in over my head. I am going to have to draw on the wealth of knowledge here on pinside if I ever want to get this game back to its former glory.
I was able to source a CPR playfield, plastics, drop targets and spinner decals. I also purchased Alteck MPU solenoid driver board, light driver board and auxiliary light boards. As it sits now all I have is G.I. lights. The MPU gives one hard flash and then three short flashes. I'm afraid to put the new boards and and blow something. This project is going to go slow until I complete my restoration of my twilight zone. The game is filthy and has either been in a barn someone or or been sitting for a long time unplayed. Here it is as she sits now. I'll suggestions tips and pointers are greatly appreciated. I've never messed around with early solid-state games so I'm definitely swimming in the deep end of the pool. God help me.
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And a few of the new playfield. The registration isn't the best and the clear is thin in spots showing the wood texture. It's so so in my book but better than what's in the game.

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I want to just plug the new boards in but I don't want to cook new boards. I'm a dmm dumby. Thanks for the words of encouragement.

It's a brand new CPR playfield. Never been out of the box. Please tell me I didn't get a defective playfield.

Just putzing around in the garage while smoking a cigar, I disconnected everything from the mpu other than j4. Led still flickers, then only flashes 3 times. I'm going to buy a new alteck rectifier board btw.

I checked the playfield in the game and the sling switches share the same hole as the light sockets the same as the CPR one

So all the test point values tested were withing 5% of the stated values for a rectifier board as stated on pinwiki except test point 2 was 162v when wiki states it should be 230v. So I guess that's my first clue.
On the solenoid driver board everything is in spec except tp2 at 116 and tp4 at 164.7. It appears the high voltage is the issue?

I want to test the mpu values but I can't find a ground (gnd) tab like the other boards. Is there one on the mpu?

I think I'm just going to get an alteck rectifier board, put that in line and see if it boots, the continue up the chain if not. Any thoughts?

It's mylared over the center area. Someone tried to stop the insert wear from getting worse. It's filthy but cleaned up I guess it's serviceable. The upper has the clear coat all craked and brittle.

Thanks vid. I posted some voltage readings on the driver and rectifier boards. Does that narrow anything down. I thought that getting 3 flashes was telling me it got past the chips and it was elsewhere?

Pics as requested. Can you tell me where grn is on the mpu? I don't see it. I also don't see the battery and there are jumpers in place so it has been worked on before.
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Great info vid. You're a life saver. Is it safe to drop the alteck mpu in to see if it will boot or do I run the risk of blowing the new mpu. I believe there was issues with the solenoids. The solenoid board doesn't have a fuse in it and the right sling and right flipper coils are removed. My guess is the game went down way back when, couldn't get it fixed and ended up a brick in someone's garage.

Ok, I'm an idiot, wiki clearly states tp4 is ground. Thanks vid. The tp values are spot on except tp2 is .55v above tolerance.

Thanks vid. I have rebuild flipper kits. I will get all the parts to get the sling back together but I was wrong the coil is still there and wired up. I have the coil for the flipper but my guess is the diodes are probably bad? I can solder but not on boards. I do have a new alteck solenoid drive board (also bought heat sink grease), light board and auxiliary board. The only new board I didn't get was the rectifier, go figure. LOL

I did check continuity on all the rectifier fuses out of the holder including the one in the black holder. I bought a fuse kit from marco but the fuse filaments don't look like the ones in the rectifier even though the values seem to match.

I will read up on the threads you linked.

Pics of the sling/pop area. image-620.jpgimage-639.jpg

Also worth noting, a few of the controlled lamps power on during boot but once it fails at three flashes, they go out. The GI stays lit as well as the inserts at the 1-10 circular inserts. I believe those are controlled lamps as well and not GI correct?

With the setup suggested, tp2 now reads 192v. Still not 250v but an improvement from 160v

No exploded diodes.

Agreed!

Ok I will put them in an let you know. I said it before, but thank you again.

That's awesome I actually watched all of them last night. Where did you find the rubber nuts holding the plastics down?

Will do. I actually got into a few more beers than I thought I was going to, so the big test will probably be delayed until tomorrow.

Success!! The game boots. All the diagnostic LEDs on the new alteck boards are correct. Game isn't close to playable yet. When I start a game the drops (left bank and upper bank) keep chattering like the are resetting but they are already up and the game is scoring a ton of points by itself very past. I'm guessing a switch is stuck closed somewhere. All but one of the displays work but I think they are missing the first digit out of seven. I also don't have sound. At least it's booting!

Make I can trade them for a refurbished squawk and talk board and or repair displays? I have no idea of the value against the cost of repairing the board and or displays. I fit by a cap kit for the squawk and talk board but I don't trust myself on board work.

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So I think I know why I don't have sound.

No connector plugged in. I don't know what I'm missing? I have all available plugs in their respective spots.

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Also, the power connector doesn't mach up pin-wise

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Lastly, since I'm not familiar with the game, should the lights flash in attract mode? Right now they are solid on. I tried putting them in flash with diagnostics but nothing.

I get it up and working and see I don't need them, I don't have a problem with that.

Still no sound, attract mode, controlled lights. **EDIT: I tested tp 1 and it is rock solid at 5v. Checked rectifier voltages and all my voltages are spot on including the previously low high voltages. Now tp1 was 0v and fuse F1was blown. I don't have the same goofy filament replacement fuses but I had a 1a slow blow 250v fuse that matches the specs. Controlled lamps came then off. Fuse filament looks good but no continuity at fuse F1 **

Now on to other issues. Bunch of flaky stuff firing coils when switches are activated. Solved the lower bank drops by gapping the leaf switches. Went around making sure switches were gapped. Still issues with switches firing random coils. Pop switches, sling switches, right/left outlane switches all dead. Diagnostics show stuck switch 33 right spinner. It's gapped and not stuck closed. So looking at the matrix all the problem switches are all on the same row or column. Visually I don't see any broken wires or blown diodes on the switch tabs. Any thoughts?

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Not sure what you are getting at? It came as a package deal with the playfield.

Oh, ok. Honestly I haven't even really looked at it close. I'm just trying to get her running now. Thanks.

Got it, so I went to switch 33's diode (man they are f'ing tiny) and I think I found the issue. The tab is broken off the switch stack. I'm assuming this is the cause of the switch showing in the diognostics as closed and causing the switches on the same string downstream to be dead as well?
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Btw, wth are these red (caps) things on some switches. Never seen them on dmd games.
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Any thoughts on the controlled lights?

Funny you mentioned clipping a leg. The two on the pop switches were off and I assumed they were just broke off so I soldered them back on. LOL

So is the broken tab on the switch stack the cause of it showing closed and affecting the switches on the string to be dead too?

Thanks for the explanation. I think I inderstand. I'm just trying to determine if the tab being broken off is the cause of it showing as an error in the diognostics and boogering the others on the string. I already tried to source the switch and of course marco is out of stock.

I'm familiar with Steve young. I also know his displeasure of not having part numbers. As far as I can see in the manual, there isn't any part numbers associated with this switch or many other parts for that matter. I just did a Google image search and found one that looked like the on I want.

On a side note, I messed with the switch and it was in fact closed. That cleared the error. I diode tested with a dmm (not overly experienced) the non working switches. I couldn't seem to get consistent readings. Sometimes it would read ol, other times the values would jump all around from 114 to 500ish. I'm confused and frustrated so it's time to take a break.

Yep, that's where I got them from.

So I checked every switch I could find in diode mode on my dmm. Everyone read ol on the dmm display when red probe was on the banded side and 500ish when black/common probe was on the banded side. It doesn't seem like voltage is leaking backwards.

When I hit the saucer switch, the left bottom pop fires and the 4 bank target resets.

When I trigger the middle target in the 4 bank the inline bank resets, the left sling fires, the 3 bank resets and the bottom eject mech fires in the saucer.

When I hit the middle or last target in the 3 bank, it resets rapidly.

When I hit the single stand up stationary target on the upper playfield the left sling, saucer, inline and 3 bank fire.

When I hit the first stationary target on the bottom left the saucer, all of the drops reset 5 times in a cycle and it adds game credits.

When I hit the right outlane roll over the 4 bank and single bank fire.

When I hit any star rollover the 3 bank resets.

Switches not working are: all pops, both spinners, second stationary target on bottom right, left in/out lanes and right inlane.

Hopefully someone my see a common thread to these problems.

Yes it was. I noticed it afterwards and has since been corrected.

Yes it boots. All allteck boards are installed. There was a free play hack and in of the coin or slots. I have since removed that as well. I will try to point the coin door plug. There is also a few things on pinwiki they suggest to troubleshoot the switch matrix. I think I want to repent all the plugs to match up with the new boards but I don't see her lease I don't have enough experience to see in the manual the pinouts for each of the plugs. Also I really don't even know what kind of plugs those are on the board. I've never really had a reason to rebuild connectors before. I'm wondering if the plug is bad or if it got pinned correctly during a repair.

Please don't take my comments as complaining. Just documenting my restore process. I'm just trying to get it running so I can restore it.
The sound board is hooked up as described. It appears the chips are missing.

I'm the worst at diagnosing electrical issues. Very frustrating.

So per clays guide, I checked every switch to make sure it closed properly and reported the correct number in diagnostics. All reported correctly. In game still causing phantom coil firing. I also disconnected the coin door. No difference.

No clue where to head from here.

When I hit the saucer switch, the left bottom pop fires and the 4 bank target resets.

When I trigger the middle target in the 4 bank the inline bank resets, the left sling fires, the 3 bank resets and the bottom eject mech fires in the saucer.

When I hit the middle or last target in the 3 bank, it resets rapidly.

When I hit the single stand up stationary target on the upper playfield the left sling, saucer, inline and 3 bank fire.

When I hit the first stationary target on the bottom left the saucer, all of the drops reset 5 times in a cycle and it adds game credits.

When I hit the right outlane roll over the 4 bank and single bank fire.

When I hit any star rollover the 3 bank resets.

I appreciate the help. The backbox connectors look factory. I reseated everything to verify pin alignment based on the pin out key on the board. the plug key matches the pinout. which J connector specifically is assigned to the switch bundle? Keep in mind, the switches reported closed and with the right switch number per the manual when I manually actuated each switch individually.

Everything pin out matches the board. The ultimate driver board has diagnostic LEDs labeled Q1-Q19

I can see what Q numbers (solenoid a firing) are being activated when a switch activates more than one coil if that helps in diagnosing the problem.

Also, based on the ultimate driver board I can visually see that no coils are shorted on. Per the manual, q19 is supposed to be continuous on (coin door coil).

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I believe this is J5. The ultimate board doesn't have the j's silkscreened on them.

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The allteck ultimate board doesn't have a pin bank at the bottom. I got the old board, found J5 and the matching connector pin out. The pic I attached is that connector and the corresponding ultimate plug that has the matching pinout.

oops. Sorry. Here it is. Excuse the dirty fingernails, this game is filthy. lol

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Holy shit. I never even considered that. Great tip.

I will post pics if the code doesn't work out.

Woohoo! This was spot on. I totally forgot to set the game dip switches. It was all zeros. I set the feature dip settings and blanked on the game dip settings. The game plays (albeit very roughly), scores, resets and serves the ball to the shooter lane perfectly. Man, something so simple. I feel like a moron. Thank you pintoys, thank you vid and everyone else that threw out a suggestion.

Now I need to figure out why I'm blowing a fuse on the rectifier and I don't have controlled lamps. Oh, that and getting my sound working. The restoration train can keep on moving now.

Man I'm so happy it's up and functionally running.

I ordered a new rectifier so working on the short/controlled lights issue is on hold until I get the parts.

In the mean time my attention has shifted to the sound.
Are these the missing chips I need?
ebay.com link: Bally Flash Gordon pinball sound chip set

Also, I see on pinwiki the jumper settings but its not overly clear to me where these jumper settings are going on the board. Are they physically wire jumpers I need to make and solder on the board? If so, what gague of wire, locations? Can someone post a picture of their working FG squawk & talk board so I have some kind of reference point? Thanks.

Thanks vid. I actually already read that. Great info on the how & why it works.

Hopefully someone can confirm the sound chips and jumpers so I can get that stuff ordered too.

Ok. I will test and report on flashes and test voltages in a few hours. I'm flying blind on this part. I have no idea what it's supposed to look like. I have had several people tell me I'm missing the chips.

On boot, S&T led goes green solid instantly, no flicker or flash.

Chips missing at: U2,3,4,5,6 & 9

Test point readings
TP2: 4.87v
TP3: 15.6v but it was jumping wildly. Didn't seem stable
TP4: 4.6v

Any input is greatly appreciated.

I was guessing I needed chips, that's why I posted the sockets missing them. I'm trying to figure out what chips I need (I linked a par from ebay). Thanks again for your continued help

So I got my new rectifier board but it didn't come with any instructions or where which wire gets soldered where from the transformer. From what I'm reading online, there should be "e" numbers silkscreened on the new board that correspond with the old board. Wth am I missing here?image-832.jpgimage-70.jpg

Thanks. That's what overthinking gets me. Plug and play. That I can handle. Sooo. It's in an I have all controlled lamps and the strobe flashes in boot. It seems like attack bulbs flash really fast. I let it run a few minutes in attract and fuse F1 didn't blow like it did before. Before the new board it would blow in 5-10 seconds. I guess that solves my controlled lamp issues?

One last piece, the damn sound!

Thanks guys!

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Yeah, I can feel it being the issue. I have been scouring the net. Hopefully it pops up.

I rewired the right flipper that was missing a coil when I got it and I think I have it wired correctly. The LED on the board flashes momentarily when activated so I assume I have it wired correctly. It flips and the upper flips to though it machine guns at times. Question though. When I accuate the flippers there is a blue spark between the contacts on the eos switches on both the left and right switches. I have never seen that on DMD games. Is this normal for this generation of games?

Thanks. I'm going to try and buy a refurbished one if I can, then resort to trying to fix it myself if not.

Any thought on the blue spark I see between the eos on the flippers. Is that normal on this generation?

Thanks. Since I have never owned a game in this generation I have no frame of reference. The only thing I can judge it against is DMD games which that is not normal for.

Thanks for the confirmation. That was a little startling seeing that the first time. I was like, uh-oh.

Thanks guys. I think I'm sending this bad boy out to someone who knows what the hell they're doing.

The first one is a 61a (mine as well) that was in FG. I can't see the second ones silkscreen.

Thanks. I haven't forgotten about it. I just wanted to get it running. I need to finish my TZ restore then I'm back to restoring FG. I have most everything to shine her up. New back glass comes Monday. New score displays and misc odd and ends later next week. The sound board is out being repaired as well. It's a super cool game with a sweet theme and art package. I have been playing it even though it's all busted up right now. Can't wait to get her looking purty again.

So I was wrong, I haven't bought the score displays. Is the consensus that xpin are the best replacements? Any one go with red on Flash Gordon? I think red would look cool.

I have segments that while not out are going dim at the ends. Everything else is/will be new, why not the score displays too.

I have sound! Pinsider barakandi set me up with a refurb board and sound rom's. great guy who does great work. So the game is 100% functional now. The plan is to finish up my TZ restore this weekend and start the cab work on flash over the long holiday break next week.

So my TZ restore is on hold while I wait for my boards to get back from the tech so my attention switched back to my FG restore. Cabinet stripped down. It's filthy and you can see the damage to the blocking. Long road ahead.

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Yeah, I clipped them to remove the speakers. There was one loose but not the ones in this picture. Can anyone point me to the correct modern replacement for said speakers.

One other question. Can I update the leg brackets to the new style? I believe so. Also, are those nails (two of them in the center) holding the brackets in place?

I lied, one other question. Is there an easy way to get the side rail nails out? Is that all that's holding them in place? I plan on buying new rails for what it's worth.

Perfect! Thanks vid!

Got the playfield into my backup rotisserie. FILTHY PIG!

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So I think I have a pinball addiction, err, problem. . One 3/4's done, one just starting and two more in the que out in the garage.

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Great work toro. I'm getting worried about my stencils ever showing up from twisted pins.

On to sanding. I ran out of sand paper so it's on hold until tomorrow. I have a ton of work glueing the bottom panel back in place, cutting and glueing new blocks as well as rebuilding the cash box wood frame. Bought a table saw. Now I need some 3/4" plywood and some 1x's to rip new blocks.

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Ripping 1x's lengthwise at a 45 degree angle on a table saw.

Thanks for the info. If that's the case they need to reflect that on their web page and or not accept orders. I'm going to email them later this afternoon.

Well I will end up filing a claim with PayPal.

So the bottom of the cab had severe damage. The is a channel the MDF bottom panel rests in. It appears the bottom left corner was pushed up and the bottom trim holding the bottom panel was busted out 3/4"s of the way down on the left side, all of the front and a small portion on the right. The fix was drywall screws. The worst part was the glued it back as well and didn't do it flush so the bottom trim isn't going to be flush. I tried breaking it free but the pressed board MDF just disintegrated so I with have to live with the slight imperfection. I plan on sanding and filling it to minimize the appearance and paint all the way around the lip up to the bottom panel. That should hide most of the surface irregularities.

Before:

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After, with brads holding it in place.
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And final with wood glue and clamps:
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In this picture you can also see my test sanding area at the bottom by the speaker cut outs. I originally wanted to replace the bottom but it just wasn't feasible. In the end, sanding worked great at getting 30+ years of grime out. I lose the pebble texture but visually, a clean bottom is better to me than staying true to the original.
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No I wait for the glue to dry so I can replace the interior blocks that are damaged.

So here is the edge with the glue dried. As you can see because whomever "repaired" the bottom set it too low which caused my repaired strips to be raised over the existing edge. The existing strip I was able to save was also raised because of of the bottom being set too low.

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Out comes the belt sander to bring the edge down. Worked perfect and looks factory. The chiped area was where the new and old tie in. This will be filled.

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Thank you for saying so.

Holy clamps batman!

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Ha! Believe it or not but there are 14 clamps in use in the second picture. I was actually 2 short for what I needed but I have 4 being used on my backup rotisserie.

Glue dry, bottom sanded.

After:

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Before:

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Now on to replacing/gluing the blocking back into the inside of the cabinet.

Wow, productive long weekend. It's taking a long time to make a silk purse out of this sows ear. All the blocking repaired, cash box bracing repaired. Rear head mounting area reattached, glued and clamped. Sides sanded as far as it can go. Still have to remove one stubborn nut on the upper coin door trim. Coming along. Hopefully painting the body coat next weekend.

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Small update. Lots of bondo and filling. It's still setting up. Sanding tomorrow. Trying to correct years of neglect is a lot of work and a can of bondo. LOL

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Thanks. Your progress is great.

Update time.

High build primer on and drying. Thankfully since I did so much prep work, the primer only showed a few flaws I missed. Corners look great and are true 90 degrees again. Once the high build primer dries, I will fill any remaining defects, sand, prime and sand again with 220 for my base to receive my finish. I'm going to top coat with an acrylic aliphatic urethane gloss. Nice and shiny, durable and uv resistant so I won't have to screw with a clear top coat. That will be next weekend.

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Rebuilding corners/edges and filling holes on the head. Hopefully ready for primer tomorrow.

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And my body work area (aka the garage) because it's to damn cold in my outbuilding.

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Been awhile since I updated any progress. Cabinet stencils suck. Word to the wise; the ones twisted pins is selling are amateurish at best. Very f'ing disappointed. Probably going to have to start over once I source a better way to stencil it.

I switched gears and got the wire harness stripped. On to ultrasonic cleaning.

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Quick question. Maybe I'm missing it but I don't see part numbers for switches and bottom side components in the manual. Am I overlooking it? I want to buy all new leaf switches but short of eyeballing them online I don't have part numbers to go from. Any help there? Possibly a parts list?

Perfect. Thanks vid.

Yeah I know they're bad too. I did all that and it is still garbage. Some of the stencil cut out edges look hand done. They should be ashamed of themselves. To think these have pps' stamp of approval.

I'm not even really upset about the cost of the stencil. It's all the F'n time I have in painting the cabinet and time between colors waiting to cure. At least 50hrs shot because someone is peddling shitty stencils and someon else is rubber stamping the PPS approval. The cherry on the top is there isn't any other alternatives out there.

Yeah I asked pinball pimp. It's planned but not in the immediate future. I need to tear down my spray booth I have setup in my garage. I will try flipper rescue. Thanks!

Can you spot the new Playfield from the old one...

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So I have never done a swap on early solid state games and I'm installing lamp sockets and common braid. I haven't got very far but I want to be sure in doing it correct. I got out my dmm and set to continuity and it buzzes out from the beginning to the end on the braid and it also buzzes out if I go from end off braid to the last socket at the opposite end on the string's positive tab. I believe that means I have good continuity, yes? To check, I pulled a bulb out of a socket mid-sting and continuity is broken there at the missing bulb. I think that means I have everything lined up right. I was sure to orientate the staple down socket lugs the same way.

Thanks. I may have it straightened out. If not, where did the set come from?

Thanks man. I ended up muddling through it. Can't have my garage pulled apart any longer.

Without further ado...

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Please excuse my messy work area.

Three boxes of parts we shipped to mike chestnut this week to be show chromed so that's up next.

Thank you. I got an unfaded sample of the color inside the cab under the lockdown bar for the red matched. Black is just straight black and a rattle can gold. I used a fancy high end metallic gold but it wouldn't bite to the red/black so I had to go the rattle can route. the red and black is a acrylic aliphatic urethane finish.

Thank you!

Moving along. Braid laid down. I took the easy way out and laid it under the screws instead of soldering them down. The main reason is the socket didn't have a tab sticking out far enough like the originals in order to solder them.

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Transformer plate cleaned up and installed. Ground braid installed.

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The transformer plate was cleaned then I painted it with a metallic scuffmaster paint. No clear on the cab. The coating is that deep in tone/color. Stuff is like porcelain when cured.

Pray that pinballpimp makes a set. Everything commercially available is rubbish. Or, source an original cab and make your own.

I got the spinner as a package deal with the playfield/plastics/drop targets and apron decal.

Speaking of aprons, mine is off to the powdercoater then off to be silkscreened.

As a parting update, I decided to match the tilt board to the transformer plate instead of leaving it that boring MDF wood finish. I think it looks cool. I'm working on the harness/cabinet while I wait for some playfield parts to come in. I finally can see the summit on the one.

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Small update. Have all the posts in place. Disregard the nasty nylon and rubber nuts. I have new ones coming. It appears that I transfered all the holes/dimples over to the new upper playfield correctly. Mine was missing 80-90% of the dimples and through holes. Almost done on the topside until I get everything back from mike chestnut. I went with black pop skirts and black flipper bats with red superbands. Looks very nice.
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Thank you. Let me know how the kit works out. I have thought about buying one before.

Got my apron and shooter gauge back from the powder coater. Now off to be silk screened. There is a slight dent in it but it was the best out of the three I bought.

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All the coils have new sleaves and custom made wrappers. Next is soldering in the harness and then wait for my chrome parts.

Chugging along. All the soldering done on the main playfield. I only have the upper playfield left. A few switches need replaced and the bottom side will be done. Man that's a lot of soldering.

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Thank you. That thought crossed my mind after seeing pinballmikeD do it on his fathom. In the end the brackets/mechs were in pretty good shape. That and I don't want to own a $8,000 Flash Gordon. LOL.

Holy shit. Are you dipping it in gold? Obviously I'm not keeping track of my sweat equity but I haven't scrimped and I'm nowhere near $8k.

Any input on this?
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No sure how I ran the wire wrong. It's spot on everywhere else. If I mount the pop switch over it will it cause a ground out? Should I snip it and solder in some extra wire to route around the switch?

Huge milestone. First power up. Everything works and no coils locked on. I have a 2 bulbs wired wrong but it's 99.9% correct. Wow what a task.
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I still have to do the backboard and I'm waiting on my chrome parts from mike chestnut but im almost there.

I'm aware it's not a ground. I understood what he meant. As it stands, I was able to get some slack and work around it.

Thanks man. My cars are banished from the garage. That's what remote starters are for.

So it's been a long time since I have had anything to update. After 3 long months, some chrome parts have finally started trickling in...

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Never seen dob texture before? Not my choice, previous owner did it.

No worries.

Edit the sound?

Happy days. Finally all my chrome parts. They are beautiful!image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

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Thank you.

Thank you. Yes he did. Three month long wait but the price is fair and the results are great.

No I just need my apron that's being silkscreened back. Three months and counting on that too.