Flash Gordon
Bally, 1981Quoted from Skins:Thanks. I'm going to try and buy a refurbished one if I can, then resort to trying to fix it myself if not.
Any thought on the blue spark I see between the eos on the flippers. Is that normal on this generation?
Yes, the spark is normal.
Quoted from Ronnie1114:Yes, the spark is normal.
Thanks for the confirmation. That was a little startling seeing that the first time. I was like, uh-oh.
Quoted from WonkoTSane:That looks very different from mine. Mine has all of the sockets except for U9 populated.
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Thanks guys. I think I'm sending this bad boy out to someone who knows what the hell they're doing.
Quoted from WonkoTSane:That looks very different from mine. Mine has all of the sockets except for U9 populated.
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Comparing your board to mine they appear to be two different generations of the S&T board. Look at the upper right corner area of the two boards and they have different physical layouts of the devices. I wonder what significance that has.
Also, seeing yours, it makes me wonder if I am missing something for my board. Hopefully someone more experienced will chime in.
Quoted from WonkoTSane:Just wait until you find out that the upper flipper is an odd size. I still have not been able to locate a correct replacement.
these should work, from Marco's site, A-2747-1 shaft and shoe assy. and a 2 inch bat like these:03-7245-R. These use a 1.25 inch standard rubber ring.
Quoted from Lovef2k:these should work, from Marco's site, A-2747-1 shaft and shoe assy. and a 2 inch bat like these:03-7245-R. These use a 1.25 inch standard rubber ring.
That is what I ended up doing. The original is closer to 2 1/4 than 2 but I have never found one.
Thanks. I haven't forgotten about it. I just wanted to get it running. I need to finish my TZ restore then I'm back to restoring FG. I have most everything to shine her up. New back glass comes Monday. New score displays and misc odd and ends later next week. The sound board is out being repaired as well. It's a super cool game with a sweet theme and art package. I have been playing it even though it's all busted up right now. Can't wait to get her looking purty again.
So I was wrong, I haven't bought the score displays. Is the consensus that xpin are the best replacements? Any one go with red on Flash Gordon? I think red would look cool.
Quoted from WonkoTSane:I had one that was bad. I just rebuilt it. They are not difficult to repair.
I have segments that while not out are going dim at the ends. Everything else is/will be new, why not the score displays too. 
Quoted from Skins:I have segments that while not out are going dim at the ends. Everything else is/will be new, why not the score displays too.
If you have the $ to spend go for it. You can probably rehab the ones you have for $5 or less. I would also say move them around to make sure the problem follows the display. If it doesn't, new displays will not fix it.
Yeah, I clipped them to remove the speakers. There was one loose but not the ones in this picture. Can anyone point me to the correct modern replacement for said speakers.
One other question. Can I update the leg brackets to the new style? I believe so. Also, are those nails (two of them in the center) holding the brackets in place?
I lied, one other question. Is there an easy way to get the side rail nails out? Is that all that's holding them in place? I plan on buying new rails for what it's worth.
Great work toro. I'm getting worried about my stencils ever showing up from twisted pins.
On to sanding. I ran out of sand paper so it's on hold until tomorrow. I have a ton of work glueing the bottom panel back in place, cutting and glueing new blocks as well as rebuilding the cash box wood frame. Bought a table saw. Now I need some 3/4" plywood and some 1x's to rip new blocks.
Quoted from Skins:Ripping 1x's lengthwise at a 45 degree angle on a table saw.
That's what I was thinking. Thanks!
Quoted from toro1966:I know what you mean. I've been trying to get a hold of twisted pins for literally months with no success.
AFAIK - they were going on hiatus to deal with some personal medical issues
Quoted from flynnibus:AFAIK - they were going on hiatus to deal with some personal medical issues
Thanks for the info. If that's the case they need to reflect that on their web page and or not accept orders. I'm going to email them later this afternoon.
Quoted from Skins:Thanks for the info. If that's the case they need to reflect that on their web page and or not accept orders. I'm going to email them later this afternoon.
Good luck skins. I actually am a huge fan of Travis and Twisted Pins and they generally have great customer service. But he literally hasn't answered about six emails sent to him over the last three months. I honestly do hope he and his family are doing well.
So the bottom of the cab had severe damage. The is a channel the MDF bottom panel rests in. It appears the bottom left corner was pushed up and the bottom trim holding the bottom panel was busted out 3/4"s of the way down on the left side, all of the front and a small portion on the right. The fix was drywall screws. The worst part was the glued it back as well and didn't do it flush so the bottom trim isn't going to be flush. I tried breaking it free but the pressed board MDF just disintegrated so I with have to live with the slight imperfection. I plan on sanding and filling it to minimize the appearance and paint all the way around the lip up to the bottom panel. That should hide most of the surface irregularities.
Before:
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After, with brads holding it in place.
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And final with wood glue and clamps:
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In this picture you can also see my test sanding area at the bottom by the speaker cut outs. I originally wanted to replace the bottom but it just wasn't feasible. In the end, sanding worked great at getting 30+ years of grime out. I lose the pebble texture but visually, a clean bottom is better to me than staying true to the original.
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No I wait for the glue to dry so I can replace the interior blocks that are damaged.
So here is the edge with the glue dried. As you can see because whomever "repaired" the bottom set it too low which caused my repaired strips to be raised over the existing edge. The existing strip I was able to save was also raised because of of the bottom being set too low.
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Out comes the belt sander to bring the edge down. Worked perfect and looks factory. The chiped area was where the new and old tie in. This will be filled.
Ha! Believe it or not but there are 14 clamps in use in the second picture. I was actually 2 short for what I needed but I have 4 being used on my backup rotisserie.
Looks like the game started it's location life in Western Massachusetts thanks to the Dugas Music Vending sticker.
Wow, productive long weekend. It's taking a long time to make a silk purse out of this sows ear. All the blocking repaired, cash box bracing repaired. Rear head mounting area reattached, glued and clamped. Sides sanded as far as it can go. Still have to remove one stubborn nut on the upper coin door trim. Coming along. Hopefully painting the body coat next weekend.
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Thanks. Your progress is great.
Update time.
High build primer on and drying. Thankfully since I did so much prep work, the primer only showed a few flaws I missed. Corners look great and are true 90 degrees again. Once the high build primer dries, I will fill any remaining defects, sand, prime and sand again with 220 for my base to receive my finish. I'm going to top coat with an acrylic aliphatic urethane gloss. Nice and shiny, durable and uv resistant so I won't have to screw with a clear top coat. That will be next weekend.
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Rebuilding corners/edges and filling holes on the head. Hopefully ready for primer tomorrow.
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And my body work area (aka the garage) because it's to damn cold in my outbuilding.
I love that you have a Silverball Mania right next to it. I have a pair of each that I am working on.
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Coeur D'alene, ID
Sana'a
