This Flash Gordon build is forked off my other Flash Gordon project over here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flash-gordon-causing-me-to-blackout

In a nutshell I have enough parts lying about to build a second Flash Gordon so decided I'm going to go for it and this will be documented here. The first retoration has gotten totally out of control and will be sold off when completed, I just wanted a game to play!

What I have gathered so far..

1) Backglass from original, needs repair around display four and other flaking. (repair complete!)

2) Playfield and wood rails from original, PF needs repair. (see below)

3) Apron, good condition.

4) Legs, good condition will repaint.

5) Strobe from original, needs repair. I have already replaced the caps and suspect the strobe element itself is shot. Been considering making a 12V LED flasher circuit to replace this but still exploring the circuit to see how feasible. (Strobe repaired since & bracket fabricated)

6) Drop targets, pop bumper tops, plastics and posts from original. Will have to reproduce or obtain one plastic. (DONE) Ended up buying drops and pop bumper caps new, cheap enough and look nice. Posts cleaned up fine and the rest of the plastics good to go.

7) Donor game, in this case Mr. and Mrs. Pacman.

Parts for "The Frankenstein Flash Gordon" would be the lower cabinet (with harness, shooter, coin door, transformer and power board) 7-digit displays, wiring harness, circuit boards (MPU, Solenoid, lamp, aux lamp, Squawk and Talk) 3 flipper mechs, the ball gates and reed switches (for spinners) the dual direction saucer, sling shot mechs, drop target banks (one that will be converted to inline target bank) and various bits and pieces from under and on top of the playfield like posts, screws, outhole ball kicker and standup targets.

Stuff I need:

1) Upper FG steel ball guides, 3 ramps, lower ball guides and ball director under the apron. (OBTAINED)

2) Single drop target with memory. (DONE)

3) Upper cabinet, found in Ohio and will be in my hands by July and I'll fabricate a new pedestal base. (FOUND)

4) Backbox lamp and display panel (I'll fabricate)

5) Isolation transformer if using factory strobe (Here, Mouser)

6) Spinners (PBR)

The lower playfield is fairly solid protected by the factory Mylar, the upper though was pretty beat.

The lower playfield needs most of the touch up works in the popper area, no surprise there. I'll have to fill in the "15" second inserts and make up water slide decals for the text. They came off when the Mylar was pulled from the slingshot areas.

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The upper playfield was going to be a problem and I kicked around various ideas from touching up to making my own print and covering it with clear plastic till I stumbled across a Flash Gordon machine ad for sale which displayed the old playfield.. which I promptly purchased and touched up.

This will look great when I'm finished and have it cleared.

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I plan on repairing the backglass with a water slide decal after I triple thick it this weekend. There were three areas starting to lift and I flowed triple thick in them and held down with plastic wrapped weights till the sealer dried. A few other areas were touched up with red paint.

Played around with the waterslide idea this weekend, its been done before though with excellent results..

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Pictures of the donor machine: It was dead on pickup, failure to boot and no sound. After whacking it with my geek hammer for an hour boot up was completed and sound was back online. Lower cab in fairly good shape, just have to undo "the doorbell credit mod" ironically which the first Flash Gordon had as well and repair the back panel which is flaking a bit at the bottom rear.

The shooter rod hole needs to be lowered, I'm just going to fashion a wooden plug to fill the opening and make a new one for the lower position.

New Altek MPU, Solenoid board, A2 Power Board and A9 Aux lighting board make this a solid buy and the factory Bally lamp driver has only one SCR out. As an additional bonus the maze is a @Geeteo LED unit which I can sell off to make a few bucks back.

Anyone need a Mr. and Mrs. Pacman playfield, upper cabinet or backglass? All will be up for grabs when completed. Or I'll turn into wall art like this spare Last Action Hero playfield.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/who-says-wall-art-has-to-be-flat

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Thank you! I'm actually more excited to be working on this one than the other, little bit more of a challenge.

More parts are on the way!

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1) Flash Gordon backglass missing chunk around display four.

2) Friend sends me scan of his backglass, display four area.

3) I spend a few hours tweaking area I need, color balance, contrast and brightness.

Laser printer goes brrrr. A lot.

4) I take various prints and glue to picture frame glass so I can judge color match.

5) Selected version is printed out on matte card stock.

6) Adhesive used? Triple Thick! Spray heavy and squeegee.

7) Area that needed masking painted black. Note that I had to have color balance right as masking will change the color.

Backglass had a few areas that needed touch up and gentle care but came out pretty good. Unless you knew where to look almost impossible to see, matter a fact even knowing where to look you would be hard pressed.

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And the rails for both Flash Gordons are done.

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Insert day!

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Still have some touchup to do but getting closer to clearing.

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In for a penny, in for a pound.

Let's change out those crazed inserts.

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Thank you!

The idea of two side by side intrigues me and I have enough parts to get it done.. just a few more pieces and I'm there.

Have a cabinet head lined up and should be here by July. Work on the first one is picking up again which will help this one pickup steam.

Once the playfield is assembled on the first, things will really start going.

Bending metal!

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So if you are building a Flash Gordon you are going to need a few parts. The donor pin has a surprising number of pieces which certainly helps but I'm still short a single drop with memory and 3 target inline bank.

Today I'm down to just needing the 3 target inline which will be coming soon =)

How to convert a Bally single drop target to one with memory.

1) In my case, obtain single drop mech from pinballplusMN (shown above)

2) Some 16ga steel

3) 31-2000 coil (PBR)

4) 7/16 nylon washer.

5) Longer 1/8" roll pin.

6) Spring.

For a plunger I used a flipper unit from my parts pile. It was trimmed down and squared. The distance from the pin to the face is fairly critical, make sure you get that set before shorting the coil stop end.

The "arm" was cut from the steel plate and bent in a metal brake and trimmed to length. A hole was drilled for the roll pin and nylon from wire tie downs was used as a spacers since flipper links are much wider than 16 gauge steel. Once that is done you will need to drill a second hole for another shorter rollpin to keep the arm from drooping.

A 2" strip of steel was cut off and bent to match the pad for the coil brackets. I did not totally clearance it like Bally did to clear the drop switch but ended up making a cut out to clear the switch wiring and terminal .

Edit: I did end up cutting the metal down so the unit is exactly like a factory Bally bracket.

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Last I needed a nylon guide for the trip arm. Once again a nylon hold down was sacrificed to the Gods of pinball! I used a heat gun to get the coil out of it, very touchy! 5 degrees more and the nylon goes from "I can relax now" to I'M ON FIRE so you have to go slow if this is the path you wish to take.

Arm hole was cut out with razor knife and trimmed with small point file.

Assemble.

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Final assembly.

Stay tuned for inline drops in a few days.

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Well so I had a few minutes to kill..

The Mr. And Mrs. Pacman 4 drop assembly is slightly longer than the inline drop but should work.

First thing I did was strip it down, swap the reset coil to the proper location and test fit on the playfield. Very snug around the shoot again lamp, I might change out the socket to a lay down unit to get additional clearance.

I need 3 yokes, which I picked up from PBR and Marco. Studs are on the way. All that is left is too make a new location plate for the top and bottom.

And I just happened to cut the steel out already the other day

The 3 small L guide brackets will be easy to fabricate.

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Another puzzle piece falls into place! A good friend spotted this on CL in Ohio and grabbed it and I'll pickup at Allentown.

I actually have 2 heads in route, the other a Blackjack but if one fell through I'm covered either way.

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Inline drop day!

First thing I did was make an aluminum pattern of the top plate. This was sandwiched between the playfield and 3 bank drop and I scribed out the 3 hole locations. This was then locked to the playfield and then I dropped on the 4 bank unit from Mr. and Mrs Pacman to locate it properly in relation to the frame of the new assembly..

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So rather than make a new plate from scratch, I noticed if I flipped the current plate 180 degrees and moved it over a touch it would work fine. I marked it for the three locations and got to work with a drill and several files.

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The furthest to the left is real close to the correct location for the lift arm, so close I'm not going to try and move it. For the other two locations I'll have to make slots on each side and mount the switches.

After that just have to make the 3 small "L brackets" that act as guides and spring anchor points.

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Lift slots done.

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Almost the last of the unique parts I need arrived today! In the envirorust soup you go!

Shout out Daditude for his hard work stripping the playfield he had.

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Those L brackets are a PITA to find, now I have enough for the rebound switches and stand ups. I'll reuse the Pacman target switches after swapping out the targets.

Having a chunk of spare harness is great if I need to extend out anything and maintain the color codes which is a project goal.

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Even my Data East stash is contributing parts, popper switches and other hardware.

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Envirorust and steel wool deployed.

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The parts pile for FGII grows. Order from Marco with inserts and a few other items in route.

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Screws tumble polished and organized for rapid deployment and stencils arrived!

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Doing inventory this morning and need the following: (UPDATED)

1) Steel bracket on end of shooter lane, ball rests against when ready to plunge. Pretty sure same as other games like Xenon and Vector that have dropped playfields like FG. (FABRICATED)

2) 2 steel "Z" brackets connecting playfields. Worse case fabricate. (FABRICATED)

3) Top left plastic. (OBTAINED)

4) Main cabinet steel brace left to right just above power supply board (common part) Worse case fabricate.

5) Playfield support brackets, (PF to lockbar) and apron to PF bracket. Pretty sure same as other games like Xenon and Vector that have dropped playfields like FG. (FABRICATED)

Maybe parts:

1) 2 popper coil brackets. (NOT NEEDED)

I need to compare the ones from Pacman, they are mounted on removable housings and look a touch shorter. Might not make a difference either way, will try and mock them up this afternoon. Nothing that is a real hurry here, finishing up the first FG and working on the playfield for this one is going to take up a chunk of time, I may find some of the pieces I need at Allentown.

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Going to be a bit turning this into a Flash Gordon harness.

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Productive day! I got the old flash unit working. Woop!

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Inline drops complete.

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Just waiting for new targets from PBR, this part of project is done and I can install original assembly in the first FG now.

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Wrapped up mounting the strobe unit and picture of the camera strobe that was robbed for parts.

Retested with no problems, works great.

I checked Ebay, looks like a few of these camera flash units are floating about for $20.

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I don't wish to purchase another set from CPR as I already have two used sets! Both are missing the top left arch piece and one is missing the top right arch.

There is time so I'll keep searching, worst case I'll try my hand at water slide decals or purchase the one piece.

Really looking forward to rolling on this, I think I have spent at least a week turning over in my head the order in which I'm going to get started on the wiring.

Like I said, have some time before I'm at the stage where I need it.

Heck, I think I'd take a broken one and piece it together with what I already have for now.

So far I have parts from 5 different Flash Gordons and 3 other Ballys.

1) Lower playfield, backglass, playfield rails, legs, strobe, apron.
2) Upper playfield.
3) Lamp driver board.
4) FG playfield parts from Datitude.
5) Unknown FG (used plastic set)
6) Mr and Mrs Pacman donor game
7) Star Trek cabinet head
8) Single drop target 8 Ball Deluxe.

Inserts go flying.

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Parts incoming from PBR: The old popper caps are actually in good shape but decided to go new as cheap enough. For drop targets I have enough to populate the board and have the target stickers but the drops are dingy looking and have seen them break with age so new is cheap insurance.

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Improvise, adapt and overcome.

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I don't need the steel strobe housing any longer, another part in the ready pile.

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Working on another part..

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More parts knocked off the "need" list! Metal brake getting a workout today.

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I have a lot to do and prefer having the "obtaining parts" part of the program locked down before diving full steam into playfield touch up, insert changing and clear coating. While the playfield is hardening, I'll get the harness done and cabinet work completed. I'm really looking forward to the wiring part, love doing wiring.

Yes.

I am but almost meaningless, only by good fortune was this possible to do in the first place.

If a major piece was missing like playfield or backglass I doubt I'd be taking a stab at it. It was just luck that the first machine came with some spare plastics, apron and strobe and a few other odds and ends and I was able to make a credible repair to the backglass. Furthermore lucked out that the donor game had so many parts that could be used on FG. Trying to assemble enough drop target assemblies alone from scratch and you would go broke they come up for sale so infrequently.

Truly the stars are aligned just right.

Final links for inline drops came in today and is complete and I cut down the coil bracket on the single target so it is identical to factory.

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The 3 and 4 drop target assemblies were gone through. Had to make small modification to 4 bank unit to clear inserts which took no time at all with a cutoff wheel.

And with that I'm done with drop targets till final assembly and adjustments.

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More puzzle pieces arrive..

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Did the resistor mod to the driver board I'm going to be using and tested it in the first Flash Gordon, works great for led lighting. Did this mod to my Xenon a few months ago , board shown.

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My "A team" plastics on left, "B team" in right. All plastics have been flattened and polished and a few touched up, mostly in black areas from screw rubbing.

Missing two pieces on the B team set and 2 or 3 have cracks or a corner broke off in one case.

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Spinners ready!

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So while the playfield is back out of the first FG for final tweaks I did some extensive measuring for playfield rails and plunger location. I'm going to utilize the Pacman steel rails for playfield support and the easiest way to precisely locate them was to simply run a block of wood through the table saw!

Dropped in the first FG the block of wood is even with the top of the wood cabinet. Clamp block in second, hold brackets up to block, screw in.

Fore and aft placement is keyed on the cup location for when the playfield is vertical as measured from the front of the cab. Done.

Rolling my eyes at some of Bally's 'quality control" the glass bracket at the rear of the cab is clearly askew from the factory.

Made a second plexglass cover for the lower cab A2 power based off the first FG with minor tweaks.

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Entertained the thought of using the Hyperball cabinet head, aka Flash Gordon 2. Call it a Bally one off exploring a rerun to burn up more cabinet heads.

While interesting to entertain, I figured I might get lynched at the next show. Besides the original backglass is a work of art in itself so just a theoretical mental exercise while working...

Anyone have this kicking around? Bally trim, back of playfield. On EM it is steel, on most solid state black plastic.

I'll use either. Its standard playfield size and should be the same on a number of brands 60's to 70's

Worst case I'll simply pickup some angle aluminum and drill and paint but thought I'd throw it out there.

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Parts in the tumbler, holes in a cabinet..

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My metal brake can't do a small z-bend due to its size but I can sure do two 90 degree pieces and stick them together with my welder.

Where you going? Nowhere now.

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Two more parts knocked out.

About the only missing parts is the lower cab brace and that's an easy fabrication.

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That sucker was really on there! Stapled, nailed and glued!

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Time to get serious!

Experimenting with various grits to see how the factory coating reacts, its pretty tough! The shooter lane was cleaned up with 120 grit and that actually took awhile. The apron are was worked on with 400 grit which smoothed things down without removing much. 400 grit was also used around one of the popper locations which was nerve wracking. 120 grit was used on the left side GI lamp area and here I finally burned down to the wood after many passes with a sander. A non-issue as I'm repainting all of the GI areas back to white.

Like I said, tough stuff! Tonight I'll pop out the remaining inserts and start installing the new ones.

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Credit button mod? Not any more..

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And both had them, full size arcade buttons.

Some fiberglass resin, some sanding, spot putty and high build primer... problems solved.

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If things look a little scatter shot right now, I'm working with the blocks of time I have available and around other peoples schedules as well. My pastor who is an excellent carpenter is working on the cabinet "neck" for me and might be replacing the back panel as well. So I'm trying to wrap up what I need to get done on the cab before handing it off.

Inserts tonight! This will take a few days.

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Made more progress than I thought I would last night.

1) Upper playfield inserts are done along with minor touchups.

2) Lower playfield all the large green inserts are done, shoot again, blue inserts, stand up target inserts, inlane inserts and extra ball inserts. Interesting that one or two inserts really needed to be reduced in size to fit (to tight) and two are sunk into the playfield (extra ball) which I'll just fill with clear.

The rest I was able to sand down and level till there was no perceptible lip that could be caught with a finger nail. After I'm done installing all the inserts that I had popped out an week or two ago, I'll knock out the bonus inserts and do them last. Did some minor touch up here and there as I had paint left over from upper playfield touchup but nothing significant.

Most of the inserts are the same as stock with the exception on the Ming Shoot Again (starburst or jeweled) as I hate looking down at the factory insert and seeing a bulb there! I also made the top red special a red jeweled as well. I might make the three green inserts in the center of the pop bumpers jeweled as well, have not made my mind up yet.

I'm leaning towards not as I could not obtain amber jeweled inserts for the shoot again locations and I think it would look odd as a group.

Inserts are in aside from yellow and white bonus.

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Inserts are done.

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Banging in 6-32 nutcerts and braiding the upper playfield.

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And if it isn't clear, I ended up using clear green inserts between the pop bumpers.

Started today's work wet sanding the playfield with 800 grit and started touch ups. Reds saw a lot of attention and major black areas and then proceeded to browns, yellow and then pinks. Still a lot of fine line black areas to do before blending and wet sanding to match.

Added old picture for point of comparison.

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It looks like Sunday is going to be a mostly dry day with temps in the mid 70s, a good opportunity to lock down the work done so far.

Ugh. Humidity has been through the roof the last few days. For a change of pace picked up a Supersonic on Sunday and got it up and running.

While it is in the shop took some measurements and swapped in a Star Trek glass. There is a method to my madness as I was checking dimensions of heads and display placement.

FG is going to be using a Star Trek head which looks to be exactly the same and the displays are in the same location. I might recycle the Star Trek light board depending on how it looks.

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Still humid as hell, spent yesterday after work in air conditioned small workshop comfort repairing Supersonics battery damaged MPU, success!

My pastor presented me with a very nice piece last night!

This is the neck spacer for those wondering.

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Not looking like much but there is a Star Trek head in the bag for Flash Gordon! Also picked up at Allentown a neck grill and some light baffles.

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Far as I'm going with it. Time for coat of clear, waterslides, clear, paint white GI areas, clear again.

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Allentown stuffs

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Today is the day!

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Not great pictures showing some of the damage before work proceeded.

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Very pleased with this morning's lockdown coat. Give it two weeks, additional touch ups and white areas and then another pass.

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Well so last night I deemed the clear hard enough and make a pass over it with a 600 grit block to knock it down. Tonight I'll mask off the areas for white and spray them. After the white is sprayed, there are a few low spots to be filled and I'll hit it with the second coat.

Whites done!

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Why thank you sir! I'd been farther along if not distracted by Supersonic and Fireball but these things can't be helped sometimes. The weather has been brutal humid which doesn't help.

I'm at a cross roads at the moment- I was using a fine line art pen to repair some lines but unfortunately it does not play well with the clear coat and I have not found a suitable replacement. I tried masking off short sections and using paint but that was unsatisfactory.

I think I'm going to finish off the popper areas with waterslides and see how that works out. So this weekend I'll fill my low spots with a dropper and see how flat I can get the playfield before printing out what I need.

My first thought was to print out water slides with the colors but did not like the results. After sleeping on it, it occured to me I only needed to key lines and will just print out them on clear waterslide.

Since I'm stuck home, filled low spots on the playfield, minor touch ups and second coat of clear. I'll block it out tomorrow.

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There goes another can.. I was actually burning down the high spots with 220 grit!

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Getting closer gents!

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Just an update since I veered off course for three months! Its been very profitable from a learning point of view working on Seawitch.

Initially I planned on doing the inset keylines with water slide decals but then run across a post in which a Pinsider made stencils with a vinyl cutter and airbrushed and I decided that was the direction to go. Since then I picked up a Cameo 4 and have been building my skill set up working with Seawitch and learning the tricks. For Seawitch I made a Bally apron look like a Stern unit and did cabinet graphics.

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Here is the link and some pictures:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/152#post-6421025

This is really the way to go for numerous reasons, one being the "15" second inserts have one and unless I find a printer service that can do white ink, water slides are a no go there.

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Just a last update for those whom have been following this thread years ago. The playfield was finally completed this month and the "FG II" project was folded into the "Seawitch from Scratch" Bally/Stern universal cabinet projects. I use the term plural as there is two cabinets now and I'll be starting a third later this month and hope to have FG, Seawitch and Fathom from scratch all at Pintastic in April.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/seawitch-from-scratch-allentown-edition/page/33#post-7883524

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