What clock speed is the CPU running on the Alltek when jumpered for Bally clock speed?
People have in the past had issues with S&T boards when they incorrectly jumpered their Allteks for Stern MPU200 CPU clock speeds.

Okay -- easy to try a longer delay. I can put it on a define to make it configurable as well.
If tktlwyr can reflash the Arduino easily enough, perhaps they can test for us.

The MPU board cycle times I calculated were based on the same code DickHamill posted. Note Elektra uses the same code so timing should be the same.

Has anyone looked at the S&T code to see what wait times it's using?

I can test for you. I will be out of town for the weekend starting Friday, though.

tktlwyr , did you compile and load the code yourself, or did you buy a pre-burned kit? If you loaded it yourself, can you run an experiment?
In your BallySternOS.cpp, search for these lines:
// wait 76 microseconds
delayMicroseconds(145);

and change the 145 to 250, so it reads:
// wait 76 microseconds
delayMicroseconds(250);

Then, re-upload to your Arduino and give it a shot?
As you can tell from the comment above ("wait 76 microseconds") this value has been in flux already. Hopefully we can find a delay that works for everyone.

Has anyone tried the new code on a FG that uses the Sounds Plus and Vocalizer boards? If the original 6800 game software is the same for the SP/V units, it would make sense that the Arduino code written for the S&T would work with SP/V as well, but I don't have a SP/V to actually test it.

I just emailed them with the same question. Curious to see what they say.

Just saw this. I’ll play with it this weekend. Thank You!

Awesome! Thanks for the effort!

Picked up a wav trigger so really looking forward to sounds being added

Building some BSOS boards for friends and there's a ? about Flash Gordon. Does the 2021 code include support for background music via a wav trigger board at this point?

I'm building Mega boards for the games where it's an option.

would there be an example for implementation of the wav trigger? No idea how to start there though I ordered a wav trigger for this

Actually the REV 1 and REV 2 boards are both for the NANO. The difference is the REV 2 has some extra logic needed for STERN sound cards. The REV 2 is what I use in Meteor for the 2021 code. The REV 1 is fine for Bally and early STERN games with chimes.

The REV 3 board is the one that supports the embedded MEGA PRO module instead of the NANO.

Just picked up FG at Texas Pinball Festival this weekend. Got a RoyGBev board on order and already have a spare Wave Trigger. Can't wait until we can use sounds from the movie in the game!

geeteoh has a replacement Squawk and talk board that allows you to add custom sounds. I have 2 of them. Work great check it out before you start on your Flash Gordon
Mike

I'm hoping that like my Meteor 2021, I can eventually use the RoyGBev Arduino board with the Wave Trigger to add new sounds without Geeteoh's replacement Squawk and Talk board.

ElCid95 Any update on how you made out? I was kind of thinking the same, since RoyGBev solution gives the flexibility for rules as well.

It's well past my capabilities. I was hoping my post would inspire some of the excellent Pinsiders here to take on the project.

Deleted

Do I need a programmer to start tinkering with this code on my mega 2650 or does it hook up straight to the PC via usb? I'm just starting out and am a noob here.

You download the Arduino development application, download the game code from GitHub, open it up in the Arduino software and you are looking at the code. USB connect an Arduino Mega and upload the code into it. So from there you need to modify the code to use your alternative sound source, the WavTrigger.

The WavTrigger you insert a SDcard loaded with your sound effects and/or music. The WavTrigger only uses uncompressed CD quality wav files. The BSOS code has been designed to send commands to the WavTrigger to have it play individual tracks, start, stop, pause, loop, set volume, etc.

If programming is new to you this would seem a bit overwhelming. That is where I started from, not a programmer, but slowly figured it out and rewrote Eight Ball that is now being played by people.

The site is gone!?! No examples of the hardware setup or anything, all just gone.

looks like just the rev3 stuff is gone, the other stuff listed in message 1 is still there

I believe it is temporary.

All of the BSOS stuff and the instructions (.io) are gone - as if they were never there. That's strange. I have a download of the master from november, but not the hardware build and other info from the info pages.

Grab the hardware stuff from Dick Hamill threads if you need it.
Did you try dm bluebomber directly to see what's going on with some of the subsections on GitHub?

If you guys are revisiting code again and you get a chance it would be the best of both worlds if 2021 code was compatible with the geeteoh sound replacement board.

If that board works as if it was an original board then nothing special should need to be done to use it,

No grabbing anything from the posts as they all link to ballysternos github which is defunct/gone. The RetroPinUpgrade repositories are missing all hardware info (pcb files/schematics/etc) and .io pages. Have messaged Dick Hamill here, so gonna wait to see what's what. Obviously the repositories were removed for some reason... Anyone happened to have downloaded the repository/io pages before it was taken down?

bluebomber forwarded me the RetroPinUpgrade github address but it only has the code for games, not the base BallySternOS code or info.

If anyone got the 2021 code to work with the geeteoh board please let me know. Maybe I'm doing something wrong.

So I just bought a Flash Gordon a few weeks ago. It had already in it an Arduino with new game code. Cool as shit.

I LOVE the FG Queen soundtrack. So I picked up the Geeteoh S&T board replacement.

Here's what it looks like before I start installing Geeteoh board....

Questions:
1. I'm pretty confident Arduino and Geeteoh boards don't work together. So I have to remove the Arduino - correct?

2. When I remove it, do I need a connector or something from where the Arduino was plugged into?

3. I have Geeoteoh instructions to default on the FG sounds/music that come with it. Has anyone pumped more FG Queen music onto his board? I'd be willing to make a donation, I just don't want to mess up anything if I try to change wav on my own. I'm a player not deep into code/board mods.

Love what this community has been doing. So damn cool. Feel free to PM me for privacy.

78189972de518cb69a4958d65038c294c57572aa (resized).jpg

Is the geeteoh board working with the stock code? Just want to make sure the board itself is okay. With it powered, you can push the button on the WavTrigger daughter card and it will play the first numbered track it finds to at least assess it's health.

Questions:
1. I'm pretty confident Arduino and Geeteoh boards don't work together. So I have to remove the Arduino - correct?

It should work with the Arduino. The Geeteoh board is a replacement for the original sound card. The Arduino issues the same commands to the S&T or whatever board is there, it has no idea what it is talking to. Is the original sound card working correctly with the Arduino?

2. When I remove it, do I need a connector or something from where the Arduino was plugged into?

The Arduino is plugged onto the MPU cards J5 diagnostic connector. Bally machines never had anything there which is why the Arduino card goes there. Do you have a switch connected to the Arduino to allow you to toggle it on or off? You don't actually have to remove it. Just above your yellow wire there should be a jumper on 2 pins, pulling it off tells the Arduino not to engage and lets the original CPU run the stock code. Most people connect a switch to it that they run up to the front of the cabinet, just toggle as desired for new/old code.

3. I have Geeoteoh instructions to default on the FG sounds/music that come with it. Has anyone pumped more FG Queen music onto his board? I'd be willing to make a donation, I just don't want to mess up anything if I try to change wav on my own. I'm a player not deep into code/board mods.
Love what this community has been doing. So damn cool. Feel free to PM me for privacy.

The stock code has a finite list of sounds it will ask the WavTrigger to play. So you are limited to replacing any of the tracks on the SD card with whatever you choose but you cannot add new tracks, just replacing the ones that are there.
If you are running the new Arduino code, you can edit the code to make new additional requests for sounds or rotate through different background tracks but that is getting into changes to the code.
One easy thing to do should be to find the Geeteoh background track and replace it with a much longer track consisting of several songs in a row. It should just loop play that track over and over.

If you do decide to alter the tracks that are there, make sure you make a copy of the SD card before making changes. I suggest copying it over to a new SD card and changing that one only. Open some of the tracks in Audacity and look to see what recording level was used generally on different tracks especially the background sounds. When you replace tracks, set the recording level to something similar or you will have something that is too loud or too quiet. If you get into changing actual sound effects which are generally very short in duration, keep in mind that the stock sound card would simply chop off a previous sound effect to start a new one. So a really cool new but longer sound track would be chopped off quite often.

the Rev3 code is no longer on the BSOS page, any idea where to get it at? https://github.com/BallySternOS/FlashGordon2021 dead link

Could someone share the zip with me if they have it personally. I have flashed a few of these so I only need the game specific code. Can you run Rev1 code on the mega 2560 pro/BSOS/J5 interface?

Thanks

Just got my Geeteoh board in and kinda bummed that I have to go back to the original code to make it work. Glad I installed a remote switch that goes between the old code and the new code. Hoping the community can make the 2021 code work with Geeteoh's board with all the awesome custom sounds!

How's a remote switch work for this? Since the MPU has to be removed...

Remake this pin with the new code and movie soundtrack and callouts and you can take all of my money’s

From Mathazar

I basically took a pair of 22g wires and put on a 2-position .100 Molex connector and pins on one end. If you've ever replaced connectors on a wiring harness, you're probably familiar with the tools and parts needed there. In my case, I didn't have a 2-position connector on hand so I took a spare 5-position connector and used a dremel to trim off 3 spaces to make a 2. I used about 7 feet of cable just be sure I had enough length to reach the front of the pin and could trim off the excess toward the end of the installation.

I twisted the wires together, adding a zip tie every 6 to 8 inches or so to keep it taught. Once that was done, I plugged the connector end of the cable into the Arduino on the jumper stakes labeled "SWITCH".

I integrated and ran the cable alongside the existing playfield wire harness to the lower cab and all the way to the front of the cab near the coinbox area to keep it looking as OEM as possible vs. being a tacky add-on loose wire job.

In the coin box area of the cab, my pin still had the coin box lock piece of metal. At the top is a hole where the lock would go....I used that hole to mount the toggle switch.

I used a 2-position Single Pull / Single Throw toggle - pretty cheap on Amazon. The switches come with washers and nuts to secure it in that hole on the lock metal piece: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QGDDTWJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

I mounted the switch first, then determined how much length of the 7 foot twisted pair wire to cut off. Once cut, strip the ends and then solder the wires to the terminals on the switch. Polarity doesn't matter in this case.

To finish it off, I used a small strip of PET-G plastic and a label maker to make the 1980 / 2021 sign. I drilled a hole thru the center of that plastic so that the toggle switch secures it in place.

So you're saying it was easy.

Very cool and creative. A little over my skillset to accomplish.

LOL, I think I didn't state my question perhaps specifically enough - the wiring/etc. I've got no question about - it's the function and how a remote would work to swtich between original and new rules when the original MPU is not in the game. I probably missed reading something about this earlier. However, your response may help out others

I’d be happy to contribute some funds if someone would re do the code for space Shuttle ??

What do you want changed?

Appreciate some advice so I don't accidentally blow a board:

1. In pic, it has an Arduino installed (circle one) and the blue connector (circle two below) is just dangling. Appears new code is working as skill shot works. Does that need to be "clipped" on to something? I see in instructions it may or may not. I bought this game with it already installed but fear during moving the clip detached. I just don't want to connect and blow something.

2. I just bought a geeotah squak & talk replacement board. Want the movie sounds. This thread states the arduino and geeotah boards do not work together. Ok. So does that mean I need to pull the arduino (circle one) off the board and then install geeotah board in bottom right, replacing squak & talk? If I leave Arduinio in and install geeotah board I'm assuming something bad will happen.

Appreciate guidance on both - thank you in advance.

flashboard 2 (resized).jpeg

If that is an Alltek MPU then the dangling one can be removed, that connection is part of the Alltek board. No harm will come from trying the Geeteoh board, worst case it does not respond. In which case either remove the Arduino or remove the jumper on its little board to prevent the new code from running.