(Topic ID: 289066)

Flash Gordon 2021: Re-imagined code for Bally Flash Gordon (1981)

By bluebomber

3 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

20230525_104435 (resized).jpg
flashboard 2 (resized).jpeg
78189972de518cb69a4958d65038c294c57572aa (resized).jpg
Screen_Shot_2021-04-23_at_7.00.15_PM (resized).png
IMG_4094 (resized).jpg
IMG_4100 (resized).JPG
IMG_4102 (resized).JPG
IMG_4104 (resized).JPG
20210730_134028 (resized).jpg
Flash-Gordon-2021-Rule-Card-1 (resized).jpg
Flash-Gordon-2021-Rule-Card-2 (resized).jpg
Flash-Gordon-2021-Rule-Card-2 (resized).jpg
Flash-Gordon-2021-Rule-Card-1 (resized).jpg
aaca33030c8d53da080e15a6efc6b4b935144362 (resized).jpg
error (resized).png
sketch (resized).png
There are 271 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 6.
#201 2 years ago
Quoted from geeteoh:

I did more analysis last weekend on Alltek MPU boards. I need to verify against a stock bally MPU.

What clock speed is the CPU running on the Alltek when jumpered for Bally clock speed?
People have in the past had issues with S&T boards when they incorrectly jumpered their Allteks for Stern MPU200 CPU clock speeds.

#202 2 years ago
Quoted from geeteoh:

I'd recommend a longer delay at step 9. My board waits 32 microseconds before reading the first nibble. Then 280 microseconds to before reading the second nibble. Your step 9 is right on the edge and probably not long enough for my board.
I did more analysis last weekend on Alltek MPU boards. I need to verify against a stock bally MPU. They do have a consistent delay after the interrupt and before the first nibble settles. They do have a pretty consistent delay to the second nibble. But the hold time of the second nibble (step 9) is all over the map - even on one machine. My 280 microseconds is pushing the limit. I'll edit this post tonight and put in the hold time variation I saw.

Okay -- easy to try a longer delay. I can put it on a define to make it configurable as well.
If tktlwyr can reflash the Arduino easily enough, perhaps they can test for us.

#203 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

What clock speed is the CPU running on the Alltek when jumpered for Bally clock speed?
People have in the past had issues with S&T boards when they incorrectly jumpered their Allteks for Stern MPU200 CPU clock speeds.

They were all (MMPM, FG, and Xenon) set to Bally clocks. I verified with pics I had on my phone just now.

#204 2 years ago

The MPU board cycle times I calculated were based on the same code DickHamill posted. Note Elektra uses the same code so timing should be the same.

Has anyone looked at the S&T code to see what wait times it's using?

#205 2 years ago
Quoted from DickHamill:

Okay -- easy to try a longer delay. I can put it on a define to make it configurable as well.
If tktlwyr can reflash the Arduino easily enough, perhaps they can test for us.

I can test for you. I will be out of town for the weekend starting Friday, though.

#206 2 years ago
Quoted from tktlwyr:

I can test for you. I will be out of town for the weekend starting Friday, though.

tktlwyr , did you compile and load the code yourself, or did you buy a pre-burned kit? If you loaded it yourself, can you run an experiment?
In your BallySternOS.cpp, search for these lines:
// wait 76 microseconds
delayMicroseconds(145);

and change the 145 to 250, so it reads:
// wait 76 microseconds
delayMicroseconds(250);

Then, re-upload to your Arduino and give it a shot?
As you can tell from the comment above ("wait 76 microseconds") this value has been in flux already. Hopefully we can find a delay that works for everyone.

4 weeks later
#207 2 years ago

Has anyone tried the new code on a FG that uses the Sounds Plus and Vocalizer boards? If the original 6800 game software is the same for the SP/V units, it would make sense that the Arduino code written for the S&T would work with SP/V as well, but I don't have a SP/V to actually test it.

#208 2 years ago
Quoted from RoyGBev:

Has anyone tried the new code on a FG that uses the Sounds Plus and Vocalizer boards? If the original 6800 game software is the same for the SP/V units, it would make sense that the Arduino code written for the S&T would work with SP/V as well, but I don't have a SP/V to actually test it.

I just emailed them with the same question. Curious to see what they say.

#209 2 years ago
Quoted from RoyGBev:

Has anyone tried the new code on a FG that uses the Sounds Plus and Vocalizer boards? If the original 6800 game software is the same for the SP/V units, it would make sense that the Arduino code written for the S&T would work with SP/V as well, but I don't have a SP/V to actually test it.

Should work. Communication is identical between boards.

#210 2 years ago
Quoted from DickHamill:

tktlwyr , did you compile and load the code yourself, or did you buy a pre-burned kit? If you loaded it yourself, can you run an experiment?
In your BallySternOS.cpp, search for these lines:
// wait 76 microseconds
delayMicroseconds(145);
and change the 145 to 250, so it reads:
// wait 76 microseconds
delayMicroseconds(250);
Then, re-upload to your Arduino and give it a shot?
As you can tell from the comment above ("wait 76 microseconds") this value has been in flux already. Hopefully we can find a delay that works for everyone.

Just saw this. I’ll play with it this weekend. Thank You!

2 weeks later
#211 2 years ago

See the edited original post on this thread and GitHub pages for more information.

I just uploaded a version of FG2021 to the BSOS GitHub that is meant for the revision 3 board with an Arduino Mega 2560. This version will always support the latest version of the operating system. I have run out of program space on the revision 1 board's Arduino Nano, but the Mega seems to provide more space than I will ever need for this project. I have also rebuilt the self test / audit mode of the machine and I added adjustable score award thresholds, number of high scores beat, total replays, and made current credits adjustable.

The rev 1 Nano version is still available on my GitHub and is considered a complete game with Squawk & Talk sound, but it will not support the latest operating system or have feature updates in the future. It will still be supported and have bugs fixed though. I had enough space to add the updated self test / audit mode, but I was only able to include the tracking for how many high scores have been beat.

I have a couple other projects rolling around right now, but I'm looking forward to working with the Mega more and adding more features and options down the road.

#212 2 years ago

Awesome! Thanks for the effort!

2 weeks later
#213 2 years ago
Quoted from bluebomber:

See the edited original post on this thread and GitHub pages for more information.
I just uploaded a version of FG2021 to the BSOS GitHub that is meant for the revision 3 board with an Arduino Mega 2560. This version will always support the latest version of the operating system. I have run out of program space on the revision 1 board's Arduino Nano, but the Mega seems to provide more space than I will ever need for this project. I have also rebuilt the self test / audit mode of the machine and I added adjustable score award thresholds, number of high scores beat, total replays, and made current credits adjustable.
The rev 1 Nano version is still available on my GitHub and is considered a complete game with Squawk & Talk sound, but it will not support the latest operating system or have feature updates in the future. It will still be supported and have bugs fixed though. I had enough space to add the updated self test / audit mode, but I was only able to include the tracking for how many high scores have been beat.
I have a couple other projects rolling around right now, but I'm looking forward to working with the Mega more and adding more features and options down the road.

Picked up a wav trigger so really looking forward to sounds being added

1 week later
#214 2 years ago

Building some BSOS boards for friends and there's a ? about Flash Gordon. Does the 2021 code include support for background music via a wav trigger board at this point?

#215 2 years ago
Quoted from RatShack:

Building some BSOS boards for friends and there's a ? about Flash Gordon. Does the 2021 code include support for background music via a wav trigger board at this point?

Do you know which BSOS board revision you are building?

There are two versions of the FG2021 game code at the moment. The BSOS Rev1 board (Nano) code only supports the original Squawk & Talk sounds. The Rev2 (Mega) board code supports both the Squawk & Talk and WAV Trigger sounds, but the only sounds that are currently implemented are the Squawk & Talk.

#216 2 years ago
Quoted from bluebomber:

Do you know which BSOS board revision you are building?
There are two versions of the FG2021 game code at the moment. The BSOS Rev1 board (Nano) code only supports the original Squawk & Talk sounds. The Rev2 (Mega) board code supports both the Squawk & Talk and WAV Trigger sounds, but the only sounds that are currently implemented are the Squawk & Talk.

I'm building Mega boards for the games where it's an option.

1 month later
#217 2 years ago
Quoted from bluebomber:

Do you know which BSOS board revision you are building?
There are two versions of the FG2021 game code at the moment. The BSOS Rev1 board (Nano) code only supports the original Squawk & Talk sounds. The Rev2 (Mega) board code supports both the Squawk & Talk and WAV Trigger sounds, but the only sounds that are currently implemented are the Squawk & Talk.

would there be an example for implementation of the wav trigger? No idea how to start there though I ordered a wav trigger for this

#218 2 years ago
Quoted from bluebomber:

Do you know which BSOS board revision you are building?
There are two versions of the FG2021 game code at the moment. The BSOS Rev1 board (Nano) code only supports the original Squawk & Talk sounds. The Rev2 (Mega) board code supports both the Squawk & Talk and WAV Trigger sounds, but the only sounds that are currently implemented are the Squawk & Talk.

Actually the REV 1 and REV 2 boards are both for the NANO. The difference is the REV 2 has some extra logic needed for STERN sound cards. The REV 2 is what I use in Meteor for the 2021 code. The REV 1 is fine for Bally and early STERN games with chimes.

The REV 3 board is the one that supports the embedded MEGA PRO module instead of the NANO.

2 months later
#219 2 years ago

Just picked up FG at Texas Pinball Festival this weekend. Got a RoyGBev board on order and already have a spare Wave Trigger. Can't wait until we can use sounds from the movie in the game!

#220 2 years ago
Quoted from ElCid95:

Just picked up FG at Texas Pinball Festival this weekend. Got a RoyGBev board on order and already have a spare Wave Trigger. Can't wait until we can use sounds from the movie in the game!

geeteoh has a replacement Squawk and talk board that allows you to add custom sounds. I have 2 of them. Work great check it out before you start on your Flash Gordon
Mike

#221 2 years ago

I'm hoping that like my Meteor 2021, I can eventually use the RoyGBev Arduino board with the Wave Trigger to add new sounds without Geeteoh's replacement Squawk and Talk board.

7 months later
#222 1 year ago
Quoted from ElCid95:

I'm hoping that like my Meteor 2021, I can eventually use the RoyGBev Arduino board with the Wave Trigger to add new sounds without Geeteoh's replacement Squawk and Talk board.

ElCid95 Any update on how you made out? I was kind of thinking the same, since RoyGBev solution gives the flexibility for rules as well.

2 weeks later
#223 1 year ago

It's well past my capabilities. I was hoping my post would inspire some of the excellent Pinsiders here to take on the project.

1 month later
#224 1 year ago

Deleted

#225 1 year ago

Do I need a programmer to start tinkering with this code on my mega 2650 or does it hook up straight to the PC via usb? I'm just starting out and am a noob here.

#226 1 year ago

You download the Arduino development application, download the game code from GitHub, open it up in the Arduino software and you are looking at the code. USB connect an Arduino Mega and upload the code into it. So from there you need to modify the code to use your alternative sound source, the WavTrigger.

The WavTrigger you insert a SDcard loaded with your sound effects and/or music. The WavTrigger only uses uncompressed CD quality wav files. The BSOS code has been designed to send commands to the WavTrigger to have it play individual tracks, start, stop, pause, loop, set volume, etc.

If programming is new to you this would seem a bit overwhelming. That is where I started from, not a programmer, but slowly figured it out and rewrote Eight Ball that is now being played by people.

2 months later
#227 1 year ago

The site is gone!?! No examples of the hardware setup or anything, all just gone.

#228 1 year ago
Quoted from shimoda:

The site is gone!?! No examples of the hardware setup or anything, all just gone.

looks like just the rev3 stuff is gone, the other stuff listed in message 1 is still there

#229 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

looks like just the rev3 stuff is gone, the other stuff listed in message 1 is still there

I believe it is temporary.

#230 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

looks like just the rev3 stuff is gone, the other stuff listed in message 1 is still there

All of the BSOS stuff and the instructions (.io) are gone - as if they were never there. That's strange. I have a download of the master from november, but not the hardware build and other info from the info pages.

#231 1 year ago

Grab the hardware stuff from Dick Hamill threads if you need it.
Did you try dm bluebomber directly to see what's going on with some of the subsections on GitHub?

#232 1 year ago

If you guys are revisiting code again and you get a chance it would be the best of both worlds if 2021 code was compatible with the geeteoh sound replacement board.

#233 1 year ago
Quoted from digitaldocc:

If you guys are revisiting code again and you get a chance it would be the best of both worlds if 2021 code was compatible with the geeteoh sound replacement board.

If that board works as if it was an original board then nothing special should need to be done to use it,

#234 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

Grab the hardware stuff from Dick Hamill threads if you need it.
Did you try dm bluebomber directly to see what's going on with some of the subsections on GitHub?

No grabbing anything from the posts as they all link to ballysternos github which is defunct/gone. The RetroPinUpgrade repositories are missing all hardware info (pcb files/schematics/etc) and .io pages. Have messaged Dick Hamill here, so gonna wait to see what's what. Obviously the repositories were removed for some reason... Anyone happened to have downloaded the repository/io pages before it was taken down?

bluebomber forwarded me the RetroPinUpgrade github address but it only has the code for games, not the base BallySternOS code or info.

1 week later
#235 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

If that board works as if it was an original board then nothing special should need to be done to use it,

If anyone got the 2021 code to work with the geeteoh board please let me know. Maybe I'm doing something wrong.

#236 1 year ago

So I just bought a Flash Gordon a few weeks ago. It had already in it an Arduino with new game code. Cool as shit.

I LOVE the FG Queen soundtrack. So I picked up the Geeteoh S&T board replacement.

Here's what it looks like before I start installing Geeteoh board....

Questions:
1. I'm pretty confident Arduino and Geeteoh boards don't work together. So I have to remove the Arduino - correct?

2. When I remove it, do I need a connector or something from where the Arduino was plugged into?

3. I have Geeoteoh instructions to default on the FG sounds/music that come with it. Has anyone pumped more FG Queen music onto his board? I'd be willing to make a donation, I just don't want to mess up anything if I try to change wav on my own. I'm a player not deep into code/board mods.

Love what this community has been doing. So damn cool. Feel free to PM me for privacy.

78189972de518cb69a4958d65038c294c57572aa (resized).jpg78189972de518cb69a4958d65038c294c57572aa (resized).jpg
#237 1 year ago
Quoted from digitaldocc:

If anyone got the 2021 code to work with the geeteoh board please let me know. Maybe I'm doing something wrong.

Is the geeteoh board working with the stock code? Just want to make sure the board itself is okay. With it powered, you can push the button on the WavTrigger daughter card and it will play the first numbered track it finds to at least assess it's health.

#238 1 year ago

Questions:
1. I'm pretty confident Arduino and Geeteoh boards don't work together. So I have to remove the Arduino - correct?

It should work with the Arduino. The Geeteoh board is a replacement for the original sound card. The Arduino issues the same commands to the S&T or whatever board is there, it has no idea what it is talking to. Is the original sound card working correctly with the Arduino?

2. When I remove it, do I need a connector or something from where the Arduino was plugged into?

The Arduino is plugged onto the MPU cards J5 diagnostic connector. Bally machines never had anything there which is why the Arduino card goes there. Do you have a switch connected to the Arduino to allow you to toggle it on or off? You don't actually have to remove it. Just above your yellow wire there should be a jumper on 2 pins, pulling it off tells the Arduino not to engage and lets the original CPU run the stock code. Most people connect a switch to it that they run up to the front of the cabinet, just toggle as desired for new/old code.

3. I have Geeoteoh instructions to default on the FG sounds/music that come with it. Has anyone pumped more FG Queen music onto his board? I'd be willing to make a donation, I just don't want to mess up anything if I try to change wav on my own. I'm a player not deep into code/board mods.
Love what this community has been doing. So damn cool. Feel free to PM me for privacy.

The stock code has a finite list of sounds it will ask the WavTrigger to play. So you are limited to replacing any of the tracks on the SD card with whatever you choose but you cannot add new tracks, just replacing the ones that are there.
If you are running the new Arduino code, you can edit the code to make new additional requests for sounds or rotate through different background tracks but that is getting into changes to the code.
One easy thing to do should be to find the Geeteoh background track and replace it with a much longer track consisting of several songs in a row. It should just loop play that track over and over.

If you do decide to alter the tracks that are there, make sure you make a copy of the SD card before making changes. I suggest copying it over to a new SD card and changing that one only. Open some of the tracks in Audacity and look to see what recording level was used generally on different tracks especially the background sounds. When you replace tracks, set the recording level to something similar or you will have something that is too loud or too quiet. If you get into changing actual sound effects which are generally very short in duration, keep in mind that the stock sound card would simply chop off a previous sound effect to start a new one. So a really cool new but longer sound track would be chopped off quite often.

#239 1 year ago

I think the Arduino mod code use to work with my replacement S&T Flash Gordon sound board. But I have since changed my code to oversample the command lines from the MPU and look for stability in the bits. I think this broke the Ardunio mod. If the version sticker on my CPU has a music note, then it using the oversampling and will likely not work.

Sound bank 3 on my board has the custom sound set from a customer. It has songs and quotes from the Flash Movie. digitaldocc may have some sound sets to share as well.

The background on my board does not cut out when voices or sound effects come in. But it does reset from time to time as commanded from the MPU - like after the 15 second bonus background and at each ball launch (I believe). So if you had a full song, it would probably restart before reaching the end of the song.

There are up to 8 sound banks in the root directory of my MicroSD card. Bank 1 and 2 are identical - so modifying the sound files in one will still keep the other stock. Then I have the all the sounds also backed up in a subdirectory on the MicroSD card.

#240 1 year ago

the Rev3 code is no longer on the BSOS page, any idea where to get it at? https://github.com/BallySternOS/FlashGordon2021 dead link

Could someone share the zip with me if they have it personally. I have flashed a few of these so I only need the game specific code. Can you run Rev1 code on the mega 2560 pro/BSOS/J5 interface?

Thanks

#241 1 year ago

Just got my Geeteoh board in and kinda bummed that I have to go back to the original code to make it work. Glad I installed a remote switch that goes between the old code and the new code. Hoping the community can make the 2021 code work with Geeteoh's board with all the awesome custom sounds!

#242 1 year ago
Quoted from ElCid95:

Just got my Geeteoh board in and kinda bummed that I have to go back to the original code to make it work. Glad I installed a remote switch that goes between the old code and the new code. Hoping the community can make the 2021 code work with Geeteoh's board with all the awesome custom sounds!

How's a remote switch work for this? Since the MPU has to be removed...

#243 1 year ago

Remake this pin with the new code and movie soundtrack and callouts and you can take all of my money’s

#244 12 months ago
Quoted from shimoda:

How's a remote switch work for this? Since the MPU has to be removed...

From Mathazar

I basically took a pair of 22g wires and put on a 2-position .100 Molex connector and pins on one end. If you've ever replaced connectors on a wiring harness, you're probably familiar with the tools and parts needed there. In my case, I didn't have a 2-position connector on hand so I took a spare 5-position connector and used a dremel to trim off 3 spaces to make a 2. I used about 7 feet of cable just be sure I had enough length to reach the front of the pin and could trim off the excess toward the end of the installation.

I twisted the wires together, adding a zip tie every 6 to 8 inches or so to keep it taught. Once that was done, I plugged the connector end of the cable into the Arduino on the jumper stakes labeled "SWITCH".

I integrated and ran the cable alongside the existing playfield wire harness to the lower cab and all the way to the front of the cab near the coinbox area to keep it looking as OEM as possible vs. being a tacky add-on loose wire job.

In the coin box area of the cab, my pin still had the coin box lock piece of metal. At the top is a hole where the lock would go....I used that hole to mount the toggle switch.

I used a 2-position Single Pull / Single Throw toggle - pretty cheap on Amazon. The switches come with washers and nuts to secure it in that hole on the lock metal piece: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QGDDTWJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

I mounted the switch first, then determined how much length of the 7 foot twisted pair wire to cut off. Once cut, strip the ends and then solder the wires to the terminals on the switch. Polarity doesn't matter in this case.

To finish it off, I used a small strip of PET-G plastic and a label maker to make the 1980 / 2021 sign. I drilled a hole thru the center of that plastic so that the toggle switch secures it in place.

#245 12 months ago
Quoted from ElCid95:

From Mathazar
I basically took a pair of 22g wires and put on a 2-position .100 Molex connector and pins on one end. If you've ever replaced connectors on a wiring harness, you're probably familiar with the tools and parts needed there. In my case, I didn't have a 2-position connector on hand so I took a spare 5-position connector and used a dremel to trim off 3 spaces to make a 2. I used about 7 feet of cable just be sure I had enough length to reach the front of the pin and could trim off the excess toward the end of the installation.
I twisted the wires together, adding a zip tie every 6 to 8 inches or so to keep it taught. Once that was done, I plugged the connector end of the cable into the Arduino on the jumper stakes labeled "SWITCH".
I integrated and ran the cable alongside the existing playfield wire harness to the lower cab and all the way to the front of the cab near the coinbox area to keep it looking as OEM as possible vs. being a tacky add-on loose wire job.
In the coin box area of the cab, my pin still had the coin box lock piece of metal. At the top is a hole where the lock would go....I used that hole to mount the toggle switch.
I used a 2-position Single Pull / Single Throw toggle - pretty cheap on Amazon. The switches come with washers and nuts to secure it in that hole on the lock metal piece: amazon.com link »
I mounted the switch first, then determined how much length of the 7 foot twisted pair wire to cut off. Once cut, strip the ends and then solder the wires to the terminals on the switch. Polarity doesn't matter in this case.
To finish it off, I used a small strip of PET-G plastic and a label maker to make the 1980 / 2021 sign. I drilled a hole thru the center of that plastic so that the toggle switch secures it in place.

So you're saying it was easy.

Very cool and creative. A little over my skillset to accomplish.

#246 12 months ago
Quoted from ElCid95:

From Mathazar
I basically took a pair of 22g wires and put on a 2-position .100 Molex connector and pins on one end. If you've ever replaced connectors on a wiring harness, you're probably familiar with the tools and parts needed there. In my case, I didn't have a 2-position connector on hand so I took a spare 5-position connector and used a dremel to trim off 3 spaces to make a 2. I used about 7 feet of cable just be sure I had enough length to reach the front of the pin and could trim off the excess toward the end of the installation.
I twisted the wires together, adding a zip tie every 6 to 8 inches or so to keep it taught. Once that was done, I plugged the connector end of the cable into the Arduino on the jumper stakes labeled "SWITCH".
I integrated and ran the cable alongside the existing playfield wire harness to the lower cab and all the way to the front of the cab near the coinbox area to keep it looking as OEM as possible vs. being a tacky add-on loose wire job.
In the coin box area of the cab, my pin still had the coin box lock piece of metal. At the top is a hole where the lock would go....I used that hole to mount the toggle switch.
I used a 2-position Single Pull / Single Throw toggle - pretty cheap on Amazon. The switches come with washers and nuts to secure it in that hole on the lock metal piece: amazon.com link »
I mounted the switch first, then determined how much length of the 7 foot twisted pair wire to cut off. Once cut, strip the ends and then solder the wires to the terminals on the switch. Polarity doesn't matter in this case.
To finish it off, I used a small strip of PET-G plastic and a label maker to make the 1980 / 2021 sign. I drilled a hole thru the center of that plastic so that the toggle switch secures it in place.

LOL, I think I didn't state my question perhaps specifically enough - the wiring/etc. I've got no question about - it's the function and how a remote would work to swtich between original and new rules when the original MPU is not in the game. I probably missed reading something about this earlier. However, your response may help out others

#247 12 months ago

I’d be happy to contribute some funds if someone would re do the code for space Shuttle ??

#248 12 months ago
Quoted from spikelou2:

I’d be happy to contribute some funds if someone would re do the code for space Shuttle ??

What do you want changed?

1 week later
#249 11 months ago

Appreciate some advice so I don't accidentally blow a board:

1. In pic, it has an Arduino installed (circle one) and the blue connector (circle two below) is just dangling. Appears new code is working as skill shot works. Does that need to be "clipped" on to something? I see in instructions it may or may not. I bought this game with it already installed but fear during moving the clip detached. I just don't want to connect and blow something.

2. I just bought a geeotah squak & talk replacement board. Want the movie sounds. This thread states the arduino and geeotah boards do not work together. Ok. So does that mean I need to pull the arduino (circle one) off the board and then install geeotah board in bottom right, replacing squak & talk? If I leave Arduinio in and install geeotah board I'm assuming something bad will happen.

Appreciate guidance on both - thank you in advance.

flashboard 2 (resized).jpegflashboard 2 (resized).jpeg
#250 11 months ago
Quoted from badbilly27:

Appreciate some advice so I don't accidentally blow a board:
1. In pic, it has an Arduino installed (circle one) and the blue connector (circle two below) is just dangling. Appears new code is working as skill shot works. Does that need to be "clipped" on to something? I see in instructions it may or may not. I bought this game with it already installed but fear during moving the clip detached. I just don't want to connect and blow something.
2. I just bought a geeotah squak & talk replacement board. Want the movie sounds. This thread states the arduino and geeotah boards do not work together. Ok. So does that mean I need to pull the arduino (circle one) off the board and then install geeotah board in bottom right, replacing squak & talk? If I leave Arduinio in and install geeotah board I'm assuming something bad will happen.
Appreciate guidance on both - thank you in advance.
[quoted image]

If that is an Alltek MPU then the dangling one can be removed, that connection is part of the Alltek board. No harm will come from trying the Geeteoh board, worst case it does not respond. In which case either remove the Arduino or remove the jumper on its little board to prevent the new code from running.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 20.00
Hardware
Volcano Pinball
 
$ 99.00
From: $ 130.00
Boards
Troxel Repair
 
$ 20.00
Playfield - Plastics
UpKick Pinball
 
From: £ 135.00
Electronics
Retro Electro Designs
 
$ 29.00
Boards
RoyGBev Pinball
 
$ 7.00
Playfield - Decals
Pinball Haus
 
From: £ 135.00
Electronics
Retro Electro Designs
 
$ 5.00
Hardware
Volcano Pinball
 
$ 29.00
Boards
RoyGBev Pinball
 
3,200 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Elkhart, IN
From: $ 10.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
 
$ 15.00
Hardware
Volcano Pinball
 
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 15.00
Hardware
Volcano Pinball
 
$ 179.00
From: £ 35.00
Displays
Retro Electro Designs
 
$ 10.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
 
$ 22.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
5,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Houston, TX
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Berkeley Springs, WV
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
 
From: £ 135.00
Electronics
Retro Electro Designs
 
$ 18.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
 
Hey modders!
Your shop name here
There are 271 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 6.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flash-gordon-2021-re-imagined-code-for-bally-flash-gordon-1981/page/5 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.