(Topic ID: 182165)

Flash Crashes on Flipper Press

By pwb454

7 years ago


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  • 35 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by pwb454
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 7 years ago

Hi folks,

Picked up my first pin last week - a Williams Flash (System 6 version). Game boots but crashes when a flipper is pressed. I am pretty handy with a soldering iron but could use a point in the right direction. I have rebuilt a couple arcade games but this is my first pinball. Here is a quick video outlining the problem (can't post the link because brand new member; is on youtube "Williams Flash - crashes on flipper press")

Basically, the game boots to attract mode, can credit/start a game. if I roll the ball around a bit (and don't flip) it seems that most if not all of the switches/sounds seem to be working, the pop bumpers work, etc. Minor issues include the credit/ball display is out (but all 4 player score displays work), also noticed that the bank of 5 drop targets is not resetting (already found a thread on that one and bookmarked it), most of the capacitors look pretty old/due for replacement so I am starting a parts order. Would prefer to fix up this stuff before taking the easy way out and just replacing the whole setup with rottendog stuff.

The main problem right now is as soon as a flipper is pressed either:

1.) score displays go blank, whole game locks, flippers don't respond to button (this is most common result)

2.) score displays garbage, game locks, flippers do activate when button pressed (typically get this result after rolling the ball around for a while and hitting many switches or letting the game warm up a bit; hitting a flipper gets this result probably 2/10 tries).

I have time to pull the boards this weekend and take a closer look/share more info. Can take more pics/vids/report measurements/etc. If anybody has any thoughts on where I should look first I sure would appreciate the help. I have my multimeter and a printout of the manual and a bunch of free time this weekend.

Many Thanks,
Phil

#2 7 years ago

System crashes, lock-up and reboots are all attributed to the +5V not getting to where it's supposed to due to faulty connectors or components. Here is a link to the Pinwiki on Williams System 6 games. Read through and see what may be in the guide that is similar to what you are experiencing. Do the easy stuff first and see if it's any better. I know that the 40pin connector on the MPU is problematic and could be your issue. 75% of pinball problems are connector related. The other 25% are components and other miscellaneous items.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7

#3 7 years ago

Job #1 is replace the 40 Pin connector!!!!

Job #2 get rid of SCANBE sockets

Job #3 upgrade 5V section

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

#4 7 years ago

Check the diodes on the flipper coils. If one is bad, missing or has bad solder joints, it can send a high voltage pulse.

#6 7 years ago

Hey y'all just wanted to pop back in and say thanks for the head start. Going to start working my way through it today. Will report back soon.

#7 7 years ago

Question about flippers: my lower ones have two diodes each, upper right only one? Why? Based on Eric_S's comment should I just go ahead and replace all these? Seems if I have to take them halfway out to test might as well go for it? These always 1N4004 or are they different based on the rating of the coils?

Other news:

-the MPU board passes the self test (lower button)

-going to replace all power supply and sound board caps (they all super old/swollen)

-the 40 pin has already been replaced - has 5 strips of 8 pins - as well as many of the sockets already upgraded

-lots of old solder joints to touch up

-working my way thru Vid's guide and building parts order

Big batch of pics coming after work today showing some areas of concern on the mpu/driver board etc.

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#8 7 years ago

Ugh, what a mess! I realize that's no help, but those lugs and wires need to be completely re-done.

#9 7 years ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

Ugh, what a mess! I realize that's no help, but those lugs and wires need to be completely re-done.

Agree is a fugly job indeed. Trying to take a good look at everything before I place my order so I don't have to do it twice.

Edited to add: also just noticed my lower flippers are completely different number than what is spec'd as proper replacement on most websites. Will be replacing those for sure.

#10 7 years ago

I'll be glad to send you pics if you want. Flash was my first pin too, but fortunately nothing along the lines of what you're dealing with.

#11 7 years ago
Quoted from pwb454:

Picked up my first pin last week - a Williams Flash

Quoted from Onevox:

Flash was my first pin too

Never could have known!

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#12 7 years ago

^lol!

#13 7 years ago
Quoted from Onevox:

I'll be glad to send you pics if you want. Flash was my first pin too, but fortunately nothing along the lines of what you're dealing with.

Some pics would be a huge help. Going to be replacing current coils for sure (ones currently in there are completely different number than what is specified on most parts sites).

Thanks in advance
Phil

#14 7 years ago

Since you are replacing those coils anyway, I STRONGLY recommend you update the flipper mechs all at the same time:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/3#post-773606

Pinball Life now has the proper coil, EOS Switch and Coil stop (A-12111) all on a single page for one stop shopping.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=172

#15 7 years ago

If you want to see what Vid is talking about on a Flash, look at the flipper mechs on this one in the market. Beautiful work.

I haven't done the Fliptronic upgrade, at least not yet.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/44972

I just looked at my flipper coils (which I haven't look at in a while), and nothing to be proud of. Two different coils, lugs away from stop on one, and not on the other (wires are too short to turn around).

#16 7 years ago

^ Yes, that is a great example of doing it right ^

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#17 7 years ago

Try resetting the connects expecially that pesky 40 pin..

#18 7 years ago
Quoted from pwb454:

Question about flippers: my lower ones have two diodes each, upper right only one? Why? Based on Eric_S's comment should I just go ahead and replace all these? Seems if I have to take them halfway out to test might as well go for it? These always 1N4004 or are they different based on the rating of the coils?
Other news:
-the MPU board passes the self test (lower button)
-going to replace all power supply and sound board caps (they all super old/swollen)
-the 40 pin has already been replaced - has 5 strips of 8 pins - as well as many of the sockets already upgraded
-lots of old solder joints to touch up
-working my way thru Vid's guide and building parts order
Big batch of pics coming after work today showing some areas of concern on the mpu/driver board etc.

Woah.. maybe a short going on I there as well.
Common stuff on a game it's age.. aewsome game .
I resurrected mine from hell and very worth it...

#19 7 years ago

The sound board:

Seems to be working fine, obviously time for a cap kit, probably won't do much else here.

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#20 7 years ago

The MPU Board:

Passes the self test so assuming ram/roms are ok? Starting to see some corrosion in areas closest to battery, looks like somebody's iron got a little hot redoing that 40 pin...

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#21 7 years ago

Power supply board: like the sound board looks good, no major damage but time for new caps etc.

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#22 7 years ago

The driver board:
Definitely some concerns here, many old solder joints on connectors, some components look like they have gotten a little hot. Not sure what that green shit is on the one side but it is gross.

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#23 7 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Since you are replacing those coils anyway, I STRONGLY recommend you update the flipper mechs all at the same time

Agree might as well do it now. Will add to my list. (thank you!)

#24 7 years ago
Quoted from pwb454:

looks like somebody's iron got a little hot redoing that 40 pin...

Blurry pic, but it looks like a bunch of cold/cracked or otherwise improper solder joints.

I'd consider the 40pin "not redone"

The 40pin is already a crappy design when everything is done correctly, put some poor solder joints on that design and it's burned coil city.

3 weeks later
#25 7 years ago

Quick update on this: recapped power supply and sound board. Working my way thru cleaning up the mpu and the (very ugly) driver board. Hoping to hook back up/test and have a "real" update next week.

2 weeks later
#26 7 years ago

Sorry for the slow updates been a little swamped trying to get some motorcycle projects cleaned up and out of my garage.

Current status of Flash:
-Rebuilding the power supply has resolved the crashing issue when flippers pressed. Also reflowed the 40 pin and did some other touch ups. Game is playable.

To do:
-New flipper mechs (have on hand)
-Clean contacts/switches in 5 bank drop targets (sometimes resets sometimes doesn't)
-credit/ball display out (probably will let this slide for now - the 4 player displays work and score appropriately)

I did get to slap it around a little bit yesterday. Can't wait to get those new flippers in (action super sloppy right now).

Thanks again for the help. Will post again once finished.

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#27 7 years ago

ugh... still getting some crashes but only if i hit both flippers at exactly the same time. I have yet to upgrade the mechs/replace coils. hoping to do it this weekend.

do yall think i need a higher uf filter cap on the power supply board (currently 12000uf) - or should i get thru changing out the mechs/coils and see what happens first?

thanks,
Phil

edit: i guess thats a dumb question, since i already have the flipper upgrade parts on hand. might as well go ahead and do that first and just get the bigger cap on order just in case. is this 18000 uf from gpe ok? or should i look for a 15000???

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CEA-18000uF-25V-RMD

edit2: ordered 2x 15000uf 16v from stupid ebay. will keep y'all posted.

#28 7 years ago

15 or 18,000uf will be fine.

Make sure the ebay ones are real, they often are fakes.

When you rebuild the flippers, replace those coil diodes, one could be failing.

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#29 7 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

15 or 18,000uf will be fine.
Make sure the ebay ones are real, they often are fakes.
When you rebuild the flippers, replace those coil diodes, one could be failing.

Oh man that is crazy!!!

This what I ordered
ebay.com link: 2x 15000uF 16V Axial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor Volts 15000mfd 16VDC 15 000

On the flippers got the upgrade kit from pinball life so new diodes by default. Will be finishing up and testing tonight.

(edit: couldn't finish today but back on it tomorrow - taking longer than I thought to reroute things near the upper flipper to fit the bigger mech)

Thanks again for all the help Vid!

#30 7 years ago

Flipper upgrade went fine. No change in the game crashing if both buttons pressed exactly the same time.

Replaced the cap (15000uf 16v)then one of the big diodes on the power supply exploded.

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#31 7 years ago

Make sure the top lead of that orange cap isn't shorting against the heat sink.

#32 7 years ago

My guess is it is due to the age of the replacement Sprague caps.
Based on the ebay photo, those have 1978 date codes on them -- they're pushing 40 years old!

An old cap like that usually needs to be 'reformed' before being used. Bring up the operating voltage very slowly to form it back to it's original value. Failing to do so can result in cap overheating (boom) or shorting internally. An internal short will have the result of what you see in that last photo.

#33 7 years ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

Make sure the top lead of that orange cap isn't shorting against the heat sink.

Is a tight fit but not touching (did a continuity check with the meter before plugging in) - didn't see any sparks...

I am all ears though if you have any thoughts. Thanks for the reply.

#34 7 years ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

My guess is it is due to the age of the replacement Sprague caps.
Based on the ebay photo, those have 1978 date codes on them -- they're pushing 40 years old!
An old cap like that usually needs to be 'reformed' before being used. Bring up the operating voltage very slowly to form it back to it's original value. Failing to do so can result in cap overheating (boom) or shorting internally. An internal short will have the result of what you see in that last photo.

Makes sense to me. Thank you for posting. I have a couple of these in my cart for whenever you start taking orders again.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CEA-18000uF-25V-RMD

#35 7 years ago

Replaced the diodes and threw the other (12000uf) cap back in. Game booted and crashes on simultaneous flipper press mysteriously gone. No explanation but also no complaints.

Edit/update (4/26/17): got a fresh 18000uf cap on the power supply yesterday. Everything still holding up nicely. Just wanted to make sure I took a minute to thank everyone who posted thoughts/advice. I am having a great time playing the game!!!

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