(Topic ID: 179494)

Fixing those pesky #44/#47 bulb sockets

By cottonm4

7 years ago


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    #1 7 years ago

    Like many, I have struggled with #44 bulbs that won't burn, won't burn brightly, flicker, or worse, they only work when you are messing with them. As soon as you close the lid, they quit working again.

    I have one of those little abrasive sticks that I twist around inside the socket, I have tried Scotchbright. ETC. After trying something else for some time, I think I have found the solution to help with flickering #44 bulbs.

    The first thing I do is use a small rotary wire brush loaded into my Dremel Tool and spin it around inside the socket barrel to shine the insides up a bit. I also hit the spring loaded positive terminal at the bottom of the barrel and shine that up, too.

    But the last thing I do--and this has worked for me 100% since I started doing this-- is I take a small round jeweler's file (Harbor Freight cheapies) and run in on the edge of the barrel area where the two tangs on the bulb skirt lock in.

    My logic was to forget about the barrel being one big ground area for the bulb, but rather look at the bulb like it has three contact points which are the two locking tangs and positive button on the bottom of the bulb.

    Running a small file on the edge gets rid of the last bit of corrosion in the socket and allows good contact. I also run a small flat file on the tangs on the bulb itself.

    This has not failed me, yet.

    Give it a try next time your are fighting your #44s.

    IMG_2975 (resized).JPGIMG_2975 (resized).JPG

    #2 7 years ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    Like many, I have struggled with #44 bulbs that won't burn, won't burn brightly, flicker, or worse, they only work when you are messing with them. As soon as you close the lid, they quit working again.
    I have one of those little abrasive sticks that I twist around inside the socket, I have tried Scotchbright. ETC. After trying something else for some time, I think I have found the solution to help with flickering #44 bulbs.
    The first thing I do is use a small rotary wire brush loaded into my Dremel Tool and spin it around inside the socket barrel to shine the insides up a bit. I also hit the spring loaded positive terminal at the bottom of the barrel and shine that up, too.
    But the last thing I do--and this has worked for me 100% since I started doing this-- is I take a small round jeweler's file (Harbor Freight cheapies) and run in on the edge of the barrel area where the two tangs on the bulb skirt lock in.
    My logic was to forget about the barrel being one big ground area for the bulb, but rather look at the bulb like it has three contact points which are the two locking tangs and positive button on the bottom of the bulb.
    Running a small file on the edge gets rid of the last bit of corrosion in the socket and allows good contact. I also run a small flat file on the tangs on the bulb itself.
    This has not failed me, yet.
    Give it a try next time your are fighting your #44s.

    Would you consider doing this method up in a small instructional video?

    RM

    #3 7 years ago

    How do to clean the spot where the wire terminal makes contact with the spring loaded center terminal below the socket as that is usually where I see them lose contact?

    #4 7 years ago

    From Tim Arnold's list of "47 things you need to know about your PINBALL MACHINE"

    Arnolds rule #9. (resized).JPGArnolds rule #9. (resized).JPG

    #6 7 years ago

    I did this on a couple games that I didn't want to change all the sockets. Older bally sockets the fiber spacer dries out and makes the wire tab ride loose and it gets a weak connection. I put a drop of 3 in 1 oil on the fiber spacer of each bulb. Then I waited about a week. The spacers absorb the oil and expand tightening up the socket connection on the tab. Then I twisted the bases around a bit just to make sure and yes they were all noticeably tighter! I did a See Saw EM, and none of the socket have been flickery since! Also my Silverball mania I did this on several sockets, and they have been solid since! The oil is unnoticable once it soaks the fiber. One drop only! I did these games like this a few years ago and still working good. Just a little trick I heard about, I didn't make it up but it's worth a try on those old Bally Sockets!

    Tom

    #7 7 years ago

    I use an old electric eraser and the abrasive sticks Steve Young sells. Works great is quick and you don't need to remove the socket. I also direct solder the wire lead to the bottom center nib.

    electric eraser (resized).jpgelectric eraser (resized).jpg

    #8 7 years ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    How do to clean the spot where the wire terminal makes contact with the spring loaded center terminal below the socket as that is usually where I see them lose contact?

    Odin, Do you mean this part ?

    I tighten the swiveling metal connector that is connected to the bulb center contact by squeezing the tab with my vice (mole) grips. I have not had any issues with bulb sockets on any of my restores after this procedure.

    Vice (Mole) Grips about to distort the tab and add pressure to the contact point.

    Grips ready to 'fix' tab (resized).JPGGrips ready to 'fix' tab (resized).JPG
    Tab fixed. (resized).JPGTab fixed. (resized).JPG

    This with the first part of soldering the bulb holder to the metal ring as the fiber washer has usually shrunk.
    Soldered light holder.

    #9 7 years ago
    Quoted from SteveinTexas:

    Odin, Do you mean this part ?

    That spring loaded post floats up and down in a hole in the terminal where the wire connects. Looks like where you are pointing out. I've tried many ways to make contact there, but some sockets it seems can't be saved.

    #10 7 years ago
    Quoted from SteveinTexas:

    From Tim Arnold's list of "47 things you need to know about your PINBALL MACHINE"

    Yeah. I have read that list. And I have tried some of the other tricks being talked. All are valid. But I have never read anywhere about cleaning the locking edge on the socket barrel with a small file. It is working consistently for me and this is why I brought it up. Add it to your bag of tricks. Save it as a last ditch effort, but when all else fails, give this a try.

    #11 7 years ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    Yeah. .....Add it to your bag of tricks. Save it as a last ditch effort, but when all else fails, give this a try.

    Agree, and saved.

    #12 7 years ago

    I do a similar thing when I install new bulbs. Especially with recessed sockets that you'd have to remove to file that area. I put the new bulb in and twist it back and forth in its seated position (maybe more of a rocking motion or jiggle) while pulling on it a bit. This seems to scrape away any little surface corrosion on otherwise clean sockets and makes the electrical contact reliable.

    #13 7 years ago

    Not a chance. I always wonder why people are so opposed to just replacing the socket and the bulb and be done with it forever? Yes it cost a few dollars per game but so what? Peace of mind when you turn the game on every time.

    John

    1 week later
    #14 7 years ago
    Quoted from Dayhuff:

    Not a chance. I always wonder why people are so opposed to just replacing the socket and the bulb and be done with it forever? Yes it cost a few dollars per game but so what? Peace of mind when you turn the game on every time.
    John

    Now where's the fun that?

    #15 7 years ago

    You can also solder the wire to the base/'tit' of the socket that pushes out by spring. ( I call it 'pinning') Clean/ sand first then solder. You can also place a bit of solder to the side of the socket where it connects to base.

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