Worst idea ever.

Do NOT do this.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/17#post-1717646

Don't spray it, just drip it from an eyedropper

Do you do this right before spraying on the rest of the clear?

PPG JC660 (or it's plain labeled cousin "Omni 161" )

Available at 3700 locations nationwide.

I usually re-paint the black keyline around the insert, then level the insert, then shoot the entire playfield (if needed).

Anyone have some photos of an insert post leveling?

Is it? Or is dripping clear inside my 950sq ft condo that my family lives in worse?

(Not supporting the nail polish to level inserts, just pointing out that the BEST solution isn't always the one that's available to us.)

Yep. I picked up this Magnotron that needs inserts leveled and not real sure what I can do living in this tiny hole with no garage aside from sending it out for clear. And who does that for a 150 buck ga....oh wait... no...that's me. (Crescendo. Sigh.)

I'd go with the clear unless you want to ruin your playfield.

See the second part of what I said. kthx.

I use superthin superglue. Works great.

Even if 2PAC were completely harmless... or a suitable nontoxic substitute existed... wouldn't just filling in cupped inserts alone - without a topcoat over the entire pf - cause other (potentially worse) deflection issues?

You can only fill in a depression so much, and filler material can only self-level so much, until the filler reaches the edges of the depression and begins to bubble or mound under its own surface tension. So basically you transform a divot into a bump. And not only a bump, but one with edges that are susceptible to impacts and strikes and further wear.

This is why you have to sand smooth and recoat the entire surrounding area.

Which sucks, because I wish there were a simple, non-toxic filler method available. Sometimes I like the soft patina and wear on an original pf, and the game doesn't seem to otherwise need a full teardown, but cupped inserts suck!

You can do something the cheap easy way and have it look decent upon completion and then have it be totally trashed within a few weeks/months, or take a little more time and effort and do it the right way and have it fixed for years to come.

Even in Vid's guide he previously linked, he mentions people trying to cut corners to do it the easy way. But in reality, mixing two things together at a 2 ratio is not that hard or time consuming but is the best way to do it.

I have looked into fixing my cupped inserts as well and found Vid's advice to be the most sound. Either that, or buy all new inserts.

Yes, seriously. Super thin Cyanoacrylate (super glue) dripped in, dried, a few coats. Works great.

It's actually the only thing I use super glue for. Everything else gets Amazing Goop which works a million times better for bonding things.

Don't clear in the space you live in. Not even in the garage. Well ventilated area with sealed goggles and respirator.

It works, it's fast, and it's cheap, and it doesn't involve clearcoating your entire playfield, or even removing it. Just prop it up with something and make sure it's level. I'd highly recommend this method. Just give it some time to dry in between coats and you will be just fine.

2PAC is not hard to do, you can buy little quart cans of it, it won't shrink like other coatings, and because dripping it out of an eyedropper does not produce an aerosol mist - you can safely drip it with the garage door open for ventilation.

JC660 is one of hundreds of formulas of 2 Part Auto Clear

why not just pop them out, sand them flat, get a new decal and reinstall? Or you could get one of those playfield protectors that cover the entire PF

They are already too thin, that's why they cupped in the first place.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/17#post-1717646

You got a link or a picture of the exact product?

I know that, but thanks for the warning anyways. That was kind of my point. Even if working with clear in these small amounts is "easy" it's extremely hazardous and not something that should be done flippantly without the proper space and equipment.

How about outside in a carport next to a creek? lol.. Just worried about dust and stuff and set up time. It's windy as farg in that carport half the time!

Good to know though. Maybe I can borrow a garage. (LOL, storage unit? -_-)

It's been raining here so randomly recently that I'm not 100% sure when I'm going to put down the last coat of clear that will go under my overlay. I have to drip in some clear first though, so maybe that will happen soon. I take my rig outside to clear, and then it sits in a workshop with exhaust fans going until the fumes are gone.

If you can make a little wind break with clear plastic, or old scratched playfield glass, you'd probably be ok in the carport.

Is there a compatibility issue with the nail polish and clearcoat? When reassembling a new playfield I had to back out a ball guide's threaded stud. Despite my best effort, the threads grabbed and chipped the clear and paint. It's under a ramp and completely invisible and it's not possible for the ball to contact the playfield there. Without giving it much thought, I grabbed my kids nail polish and applied a light dab (literally 1/8" x 1/4") in an attempt to seal the crack/chip and prevent its spread.

Did I make my problem worse or is this a nonissue in my case? Vid's quote scares me.

it will be ok, its not a wear spot

or just buy one of those tricky new playfield protectors

Lacquer nail polish is OK, but all those other strange chemical nail polish concoctions go in the WTF pile.

Everytime somebody shows me a playfield problem where something is lifting away, turning yellow, turning cloudy or is completely ruined, it's always because some prior owner tried to **fix** the game with anything they had laying around the house or garage.....

Going to throw this one into the mix. Although not a permanent repair. I have seen adhesive mylar discs placed into the cupped inserts. A small one in the center with progressively larger discs on top of the smaller one. Filling the cupping. May not be a perfectly smooth finish, but it does help, and is not permanent.

Anything like this works

http://www.hobbylinc.com/hobbylinc-insta-cure-super-thin-cyanoacrylate-2oz-hobby-ca-super-glue-103