Yes you can re-tap the threads. You might have to tap to a larger size bolt depending on how bad the damage is.

You can buy the threaded plate.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=144&parent=0

or

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=858

Justin
The item is called a tap, the size for a leg bolt is 3/8x16, it will restore damaged threads but if the hole is stripped then replacement is required as there is not enough material to redo. There are replacement plates out there or with a drill and tap and bar stock you can make your own. Give me a call and I can help you out.
Richard

I know its a bit of poor form to bump an old thread, but I blown away by how quickly I found an answer to my question here and had to give some thanks.

It was a pretty epic bummer last night when I opened my first pin, a Haunted House, that I had shipped to me. I had to stop the assembly process because one of the rear leg brackets was completely stripped in both bolt holes. I'm pumped to get the new brackets I just ordered from PinballLife soon so that I can get this puppy up (on its legs) and running!

Big thanks to fattrain and DCFAN for asking the question and dropping the knowledge here for myself and others to learn from!

If you are in a pinch, use washers and nuts inside the cabinet. This is pretty hackish, so remember to get new threaded plates.

This is also a good way to keep pins from being stolen from a high risk location.

That is really a pretty good quick fix. Better would be to tack weld a nut onto the back of the plate. As a bonus, the bolt will catch a bunch of threads, rather than just catching the couple of threads that are in the plate (and probably never strip again).

Ant time I have a stripped bolt plate, I replace it w/ the heavy duty version.

The stock plate only gives you about 3 threads engagement.

The replacement plates sold now have much more threads available than the original plates ever had. Whenever I encounter a stripped original plate, I automatically replace it with the new style. It's so much better.

I'll go one further. I put them on any used game I buy that doesn't have them when setting it up. Vast improvement.

I'm slowly working my way to that.

The PEM nuts in the newer plates have about 1/2 inch of thread. Rule of thumb...you'll achieve maximum thread strength at 1 1/2 x the diameter of the bolt being used. For a 3/8-16 thread, you get maximum holding strength at 9/16 inch thread engagement.

The original plates might give you 1/8 inch...(3/32 is more likely).

Sorry to bump an old thread, but this seemed like a good place to ask. What do you guys use to install new style Williams/Bally leg bolt plates. What kind of screws. I am installing them on a Data East R&B. Someone previously installed 1 on one leg and installed carriage bolts through the side of the cabinet. Not the way i want to go, unless that is the recommended way.
This is the style of plate i am installing.

leg plate (resized).jpg

Yes, like others stated. Just buy and install a new plate.

i already have the plates, asking what is the best way to attach the plate to the cabinet.

If they arent there I think they are a #8 x 5/8.

Use short wood screws.

IMG_1113 (resized).JPG

Thanks guys. That's what i'll go pick up.

Might want to get some 1/2" as well just in case 5/8" is too long (dont want the screw popping through). Maybe someone else can confirm? If a #10 fits you might want to try those too.

i'll take the plate with and measure the cabinet thickness to verify length.

I also want to say there's a trick here of holding the plate in place, then mounting the leg snugly so it holds the plate "where it needs to be" then installing the screws to hold it in place, then torqueing down the leg bolts. I seem to remember mounting one and having to take all the screws back out for the threaded part to align properly with the bolt holes and bolts.

I believe the attaching screws are # 8 by 1/2" long. The factory used hex head screws, but I just use Phillips heads.

I was able to get #10 x 1/2", but had to get sheet metal, rather than wood. Ace didn't have hex drive wood screws.

Ok, what do you guys do when encountering this? The cone for the power cord is in the way of the new leg bolt bracket, I would think put it on top of the new bracket, but I could also slide it under. It seems the triangular wood support isn't completely "square" and the new bracket doesn't want to fit 100% tight to the cabinet on both sides.

IMG-20161212-01745 (resized).jpg

cat_grinders (resized).png

Get a tap and die set. Very affordable at harbor freight.
You will need a male and female 3/8" - 16 thread.

When picking up a new game: Make a note of any leg bolts that don't come out smooth.
Tap those holes when you get home.

Check the bolts: the threads on at least one of those is messed up. Run it through the female tap to clean it up.
Note: You can run all the bolts through in a hurry with an impact drill and socket.

When reinstalling the bolts, if you get something hanging up; STOP! Back it out and try again. Don't be the ass that cross threads.

Tip: Reverse bolts (and screws) until the threads line up with a thump, then commence tightening. Always start in reverse and you'll never cross thread.

No i am installing these better leg plates. the bolts were partially stripped when i got the machine. And the Original plates are junk. i can modify the cone if i need to, just wanted to see what others have done in this situation.

I would remove the cone and slide it up the cord, Install the plate, then reinstall the cone over it and attach the cone back as snugly as possible without deforming, cracking or trimming it.

Ok, I can actually use one of the screws from the plate to attach the cone, they are almost the same place. So I will put the cone over the plate. thanks for the help.

Yup. The plates and their female threads are made of a harder material than the bolt are. Quite often there are screwed up threads in the plates the will continue to destroy the threads on any bolt you put in it. Its designed that way. I run the tap through the plates on any game I buy (especially NIB). It avoids damaging bolts and further damage to the plate nuts. Some are beyond repair due to cross threading.

Its hard to believe how many NIB games I bought had poor quality plate nuts causing this problem. It is a shame that so few people are aware of this. I'm sure it is another example of cheap overseas production quality. I never bought a NIB B/M game so I have no idea how they were, but its quite common on Stern's. My NIB JJP games have been fine.

Everybody should buy a quality 3/8-16 tap and use it on every game that comes in. It can't be more than $10 at a quality auto parts store and there are plenty of ways to turn it from an open end wrench to a 12 point socket. You should always try to start them by fingers anyway. But the T wrench or the special tool for it from the tap set does make it easier and accurate indeed.

Exactly. I had to do this the other day on a stripped Demolition Man leg. I'm a total noob/questionable handyperson and didn't have any trouble so...

I picked up a set a while back, unfortunately the damage on this was already there. I will make a point of doing it to every other game from now on though.

There are lots of different thread types out there. The pinball legs are 3/8 NC UNC 16