(Topic ID: 281353)

Fixing melted spot in BSD ramp

By ThatOneDude

1 year ago


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  • 17 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by GRB1959
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#1 1 year ago

I just got a Bram Stoker's Dracula, and I discovered that it has a melted spot near the entrance of the left ramp. It looks like it melted from a lamp underneath. Anyway, it is slightly raised up there, like a volcano cone shape. It causes the ball to hop, and I imagine robs it of significant inertia.
The problem is, I'm pretty sure that this ramp is unobtainable.
My idea is to use a dremel to grid out the divot and fill with some epoxy, then lay a clear piece of mylar to protect it.
Does that sound sane?

#2 1 year ago

Learn how to flamepolish, heat it gentle and push down the high spot.. don't use your fingers to push or your fingerprints will remain forever in the plastic..

#3 1 year ago

Hmm, so attempt to remelt and work it flat?

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#4 1 year ago

Seems pretty common their on bsd. Not much u can do but possibly smooth it out somewhat with some heat. Also I believe there were a run of ramps made by someone here on the forum. Good luck ..its a great game. You cld also just play it and not worry about it .

#5 1 year ago

I would suggest to remove the decals first. And then sand it with some 600 grit to get it to grade, then 800, 1000 etc, then buff it out with compounds, then re-attach the decal.

#6 1 year ago

Check with Freeplay40 to see if he can make a ramp for you.

#7 1 year ago

Now I see the pictures - ignore my previous comment.
Don't heat it more, once it shows these bubbles you only damage it more when heating it.

Sanding it down and filling from below is an option then.

#8 1 year ago

Fill it from below before any sanding.

#9 1 year ago

Ive used UV Nail Gel, with Clear Nail Fiberglass patch, when needed.
Both a couple bucks off ebay.
I then self leveled with Everbrite, about 8 coats, and this clearcoat shined up the sanding dullness.
Small Mylar patch and hardly noticeable.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Ive used UV Nail Gel, with Clear Nail Fiberglass patch, when needed.
Both a couple bucks off ebay.
I then self leveled with Everbrite, about 8 coats, and this clearcoat shined up the sanding dullness.
Small Mylar patch and hardly noticeable.

Is this backfilling from the back side?

#11 1 year ago

I sanded as mentioned. Tacked the fiberglass mesh with uv from the back, a very small piece.
Dripped in UV Gel, lower than the ramp height and cured. Then slowly built up layers of self leveling clear.
This took a couple days, and I suppose I could have used more UV gel to shorten that time.

I tested this method on an old ramp, and did better the second time.
UV Gel, varies a bit from overseas, but id highly recommend you test first, as I hate to suggest something that
may not work the same for everyone.

Like this product:
ebay.com link: YAYOGE14G Clear Resin Hard Building UV LED Gel For Nail Extension Manicure

ebay.com link: Manicure Tool Nail Fiber Extension Fiberglass Builder Gel Fake Nails Glass Fiber

#12 1 year ago

Repros were made a few years ago, might be able to shake one loose from someone.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-new-ramps/page/5

#13 1 year ago

Man, a repo or NOS ramp would be amazing.
So, this is what I'm hearing:
1) remove decal
2) Fill in back of damage.
3) reinstall decal
4) sand top flat

#14 1 year ago

I had the same issue and I had pretty good luck fixing it. I recommend sanding only and working from the top. Start with a pretty heavy grit (120) and work back to like 400. Finish my flame polishing.

I put painters tape all around the “pimple” area to I really isolated the sanding.

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

Man, a repo or NOS ramp would be amazing.
So, this is what I'm hearing:
1) remove decal
2) Fill in back of damage.
3) reinstall decal
4) sand top flat

If there is no noticeable hump , just work on the top-side. I don't think its possible to get it to the same shape as original. You only can hope to hide the damage. And doing the things I suggested will hide it well enough. You can leave the decal on if it wasnt damaged from the heat of the torch. In the future , remove the decals before using heat.

#16 1 year ago

Decal is Last, if working from the bottom.
Lots of great advise, Tape around top, and use the tool of your skill set and need.
A very fine grinding cylinder on a hand held like from Harbor freight with slow light movements in opposite directions.
Depending on depth, and tools, a blade too.

We cant see it close up, or know your skill set, but the first step is to level, then decide on fill, and finish.
There is no one answer, or right answer over another.
Just remember any sanding etc, will dull. so Tape is your friend.

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#17 1 year ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

Man, a repo or NOS ramp would be amazing.
So, this is what I'm hearing:
1) remove decal
2) Fill in back of damage.
3) reinstall decal
4) sand top flat

Send a pm to Pinsider PjM. He had all the topside plastic BSD ramps (with decals) reproduced a few years ago and may have some left over.

Gord

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