I'm thinking buying the UV resin in small quantities (pens) for larger projects will get quite expensive. I looked around and found these:

http://www.levineautoparts.com/transtar7838.html - If you need A LOT of UV cureable clear....

Or this: http://www.cureuv.com/lensbright-uv-headlight-restoration-coating-12oz.html

or this: http://www.cureuv.com/lensbright-uv-headlight-restoration-coating-8oz.html

Not sure what the results would be with these or if they are even the same at all.

Just a thought how would curing with my eprom UV eraser turned upside down with the draw open work?

Cost £12 does 2 jobs

uv-eprom-eraser-erase-ultraviolet-light-erasable.jpg

Just placed an order for some of the pens from Amazon to try on one of my Firepowers with cupped inserts. Going to do a "redneck" playfield restore:

1) Clean the entire playfield with wax remover including using a toothbrush to remove wax buildup in the crack around the inserts.
2) Level the raised and lowered inserts and glue in place with epoxy.
3) Wick some thin, slow curing epoxy into the crack around the insert, let cure.
4) Use some 400 wet-dry sandpaper on the insert to remove gloss and give the resin something to stick to. Be careful to not sand away the lettering on the insert (hopefully).
5) Flow the whole insert level with the UV resin.
6) Polish and wax entire playfield.
7) Re-assemble playfield and enjoy.

Thoughts?

Take a few pics and let us know how it turns out. My FP could use the same treatment.
--
Jeremy Agema
Central WI

I'm very curious how the resin evens out, let us know.

Sounds like a plan! Can you photo your progress and post here?

Has anyone tried the Dupont D101 version as mentioned in the earlier post by Calico1997?

Bump.

I'm interested in anything on this topic so I'll bump it as well.

Bump. Has anyone tried the Dupont D101 version as mentioned in the earlier post by Calico1997?

Is there a limit to how much of the insert is clouded? I have an apollo 13 that has a couple of inserts that are 50%-100% delaminated and cloudy. My original plan was to remove the inserts and sand them down and redo them but if this is an option then I would like to try it.

image.jpg

That's called "ghosting" and is repaired in a different way:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/2

Vid1900, thanks for the reply. I read your thread and thanks so much for your contribution to this hobby. If you don't mind, can you explain what is different between ghosting and just the edges de laminating. Is ghosting just a more severe case or is something else going on? So do you think this method would not work just because you couldn't get the clear that far in? What about if you got the uv clear in a syringe? I like the idea of being able to work until you use the uv light but this may not be the best method for my case.

Thanks again

I took a look at the DuPont item as mentioned in the previous post. It says "UV Activated" right on the picture of the package, in the 4 bullet points at the lower left. Ordered one from Amazon (fulfilled by Amazon, not someone else) after making sure the picture on Amazon is the same as in this post and the Amazon description still says "UV activated clear-coat for an invisible repair".

What arrived from Amazon is not quite the same thing as the blister pack has no reference to "UV Activated" at all (that one of the 4 bullet points on the package has been completely removed). Even now the Amazon description still shows the old version. I think I'll send this right back to Amazon with an explanation that the product they shipped is not the same as was advertised on their site, not the UV curing version.

Maybe this was answered elsewhere - but if you don't or can't clearcoat the entire PF after new inserts are added - can you just apply this instead?

Can you apply the UV resin over a playfield that has already been clear coated to fill cupped inserts?

I was able to locate the UV activated pen at Auto Zone.

image.jpg

Nice work! I will check out my local store too.
--
Jeremy Agema
Central WI

I'm going to give these a try:

ebay.com link: Package 5 shots windshield repair kit resin long crack SUPER LOW VISCOSITY

I went ahead and ordered some of that too.

Very interesting thread. A keeper.

It still remains to be seen if that stuff can be sanded. If someone tries it, let me know. I too ordered the stuff off Amazon and noticed that the product shipped says nothing about "UV activated" so I don't know what to do - I may still give it a try anyway and report what happens.

If done right there shouldn't be anything on the surface to sand. It should be wiped clean before you put the lamp on it. I am guessing it could be sanded since it is a clear coat. I will post my results. May be a while since I am working on my BTTF.

Before using a completely different resin than was recommended I would try it on a scrap board and make sure it works OK.

I've used it to repair minor planking and it can be sanded.

I have a practice PF to test on and will post my results. I primarily do early SS Bally/Stern stuff so insert cupping is my biggest problem. I really hate removing inserts on these games unless they come out using my finger. Even then many times you have to repro the art work and Stern loved to use white numbers which can't be easily made using a clear waterslide decal. I've been down the superglue path and that sucks.

Yes, can someone please elaborate on this? And if there is a difference, what's the easiest way to determine which problem a playfield has, since by sight I can't distinguish between the two?

This is a great thread and Im gonna try this on my CV clouded inserts.

Joe(acejedi)

Where do you guys buy new inserts from?

I see Marco has a bunch, but not really a full array of colors in each shape.

Ebay was no help either.

hopefully my local AutoZone stocks those pens.

Mine had them. I found them near the wax and scratch repair.

My Autozone said out-of stock (via website).
My PepBoyz has it tho.
Using NEW20 coupon brought the cost down to 11.25 with a pickup in store option.

This is a great thread, with great information. I will order the supplies and fix my IJ insert that has a bad spot. I will try to post photos.

Thank you!!

I have some new stuff to try I found on Amazon. The company makes about 8 different types of UV curable products that is used a lot by surfers. I talked to them and told them what I was trying to do and got a recommendation. A whole quart is only 21 plus some shipping. Should be lifetime supply if it works well. Ill try to post pics of the product when I get home and the results later this week after it arrives.

PepBoys was a bust.
The package online was right; but when I got to the store - it was the "cures without sunlight" formula.
I let them keep it.

I ordered it from amazon and got sent the wrong product. I searched online and the UV stuff is everywhere.... KingNine - interested in what you find.

UV light came in today. I'm thinking this will be money for curing resin. 36 watt, removable bottom and on/off switch that can be used with or without the 120 second timer:

http://www.amazon.com/Salon-Edge-Acrylic-Shellac-Curing/dp/B006QO4BRM/ref=sr_1_1

Here is the product I found. It comes in many different varieties. The manufacturer suggested I try the polyester version which comes in a standard and gloss version. I have the gloss version coming and can't wait to test it.

Here is a link to the amazon page: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FO6MMWE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

// Error: Image 174325 not found //

solarez.jpg

I am going to try this process with this insert. Its my weak link in my game and had been trying to figure out how to make it right. It appears that whatever was used over the power insert has melted. I was going to trim away some of the rigid areas and apply the resin.

Now I just need to find the right resin that is truly a UV dry vs the new and improved type. (unless you guys think the new and improved type is ok). Thanks for the link for the light, I was going to ask the same question as to where to find one cheap.

TAF Power.JPG

So when this UV product is used on an insert it self levels? You're not left with a slight dome effect?

from what I have read in this thread it does self level

So you are going to attempt to fill in the chipping on your insert with this process?

Will you post after pics please?

I like the UV clear gloss pen, but because it seems to be difficult to find the proper UV pen online via Amazon, I suggest an alternative.

As a fisherman too, I frequent Bass Pro Shops and after reading this excellent post I think the fly tying UV cement (for fly fishing) is a good alternative to the pen (clear, waterproof and hard). It's more expensive initially, you do get more volume however, and works similarly to the UV pen, just use a diabetic syringe and needle.
BPS also sells an UV flashlight; I linked both items below:

http://www.basspro.com/Loon-Outdoors-UV-Clear-Fly-Finish/product/1111010500594/?cmCat=CROSSSELL_PRODUCT

http://www.basspro.com/UV-LED-Curing-Light/product/1310081549/?cmCat=CROSSSELL_PRODUCT

I am saying yes with a slightly fearfull tone to it. It appears to be gouged so was considering cutting the mylar that has come up and then fill the ghosting and level the middle area of the insert.

fwiw....this scares the hell out of me doing this.

The solarez post I put up above also works with fly fishing. The have a YouTube channel with a guy making fly lures with it.

As excited as I am to try my new solarez stuff I would use the pen on your application. I've tested a pen and it looks like it is closer to water consistency which you will need to get under the laminate peeling up. The solarez guy told me his stuff was very liquid and would self level easily for fixing my cupped inserts but is thicker than water by a little bit. Plus obviously if that is all you are doing the pen makes more sense. If my solarez find works out well it will be great as the pens would get expensive with all the cupping inserts I want to fix across many machines.

I also noticed the additional $12.50 shipping for the Solarez ($21.50) on Amazon via a secondary distributor. Although you get either 16 or 32 ounces of it, it's a bit pricey and most people will not go through that much in a lifetime. Even if I used it for my fly-tying. However, it would be nice to hear if the slightly thicker Solarez liquid is really self-leveling and/or easy to wipe up before UV curing.

I am hopeful for the SolarRez too. Lots of my cupped inserts are just waiting for this stuff!