I can't really tell what kind of shappe the game is in; but th eflipper links look good.

I'd replace the coil and sleeve, and see how that is.

Robert

Since your diving in, you might as well just do the rebuild and get some bushings to as I bet they need replaced as well.

the left flipper coil (5020-30) is the stock coil, according to the manual. The right one is a replacement.

Not sure what the difference is between the 2, but PB Life also sells the stock coil. But don't get hung up on the coil - it's not what's causing your sluggish flipper problem. Those 2 coils are near identical in strength so if everything else is good shape I doubt you could tell a performance difference between the 2 different coils.

There's a ton of possible reasons for a "weak" flipper. A bad coil typically isn't one of them. Most likely you are looking at normal wear and tear and accumulated gunk and grime.

I usually wouldn't recommend, but you may consider just spending the $20 and buying a "flipper rebuild kit" (which ironically would include everything *except* the coil, since coils usually don't fail). You can get some experience and it's not a tough job.

Just remember to only disassemble one flipper assembly at a time. If you get confused as to how something goes back together, you can reference your other assembly.

Take the coil stop off and you can just slide the coil off, you don't need to unsolder it.

It's really not that hard, just do one at a time. You don't need a step by step guide.

Get a rebuild kit from pinballlife.

coils don't degrade or become weak over time. They basically work..........or they don't. And about the only reason they ever stop working is if there is a break in the coil winding.

You'll need to specify the manufacturer/game as the kits are not interchangeable between manufacturers or generations of games. So get a kit that says it's for a DE JP.

There should be "set screws" that are tightened up against the flipper shaft. Probably allen wrench type of screws. Loosen them up, your flipper will start flopping around - grab it from the top of the playfield and lift it off. Do this first and remove the flipper bat/shaft before you loosen stuff underneath the playfield. First thing to take off - last thing to put back on.

Is that a plastic cover on the ball trough protecting the 6 microswitches? I don't have that on mine...

I had weak flipper on my Addams Family game. Replaced the 20 year old coil = still weak. Replaced the 20 cent coil sleeve = strong flipper. I believe that to be enough said.

Okay... more to say. All three flippers on my Spiderman game were also weak when I bought it. For that game I used three flipper rebuild kits and had three VERY strong flippers... too strong really. No coil replacement.

Local people told me that coils are very, very rarely the problem of anything. I hope that helps.

It took me maybe an hour on the first flipper I did... now I can do them in maybe 10 minutes each.

Be very, very, very careful to solder the coils back exactly how they were already. Putting one of those wires in the wrong place can cause some pains.

I usually take a piece of masking tape and write on it "BANDED" and wrap it around the wire that came off the BANDED side of the diode. That way, you can't mess it up when you put it back on!

Yes order lots of spare parts of course...balls, rubbers, bulbs, novus, etcetcetc...always good to have spares...you WILL use them...

Just a couple things to add to the already good advice. When you re-install the flipper assembly make sure to leave just a little bit of movement between the bottom of the flipper bat and the playfield bushing. Too tight and it may bind, to lose and it robs the flipper of power.

Also, if you order a new coil (I agree, they're seldom bad) they generally come with a new coil sleeve. And yes, order more. They're cheap and nice to have on hand. Check that the coil stop and plunger aren't deformed while your at it.

Good luck!

The 5032 is a weaker cool than the 5020-30. You can tell by measuring the impedance of the coils. The lower, the stronger the coil. So since the left side has a stronger coil and is weaker, you need a flipper rebuild rather than a new coil (most likely).

In case it ever helps anyone... I have a Funhouse and the weak left flipper was KILLING me. Tightened up the EOS switch (normally closed) so it doesn't open so early/easily, and it made ALL the difference in the world. Just sayin.

While you're doing a rebuild, the plastic parts are some of the most important. As stated before, the sleeves inside the coil are essential. A clean smooth sleeve does not add friction and rob power. Also, make sure to buy new flipper bat bushings. These inexpensive white collars that your flipper post slides into can often crack without being noticed and they will not only cause your flipper bat to wobble, but will also put your playfield at risk of damage. They are not included with most rebuild kits.
And don't forget to inspect the inside of your flipper bats to ensure there are no cracks. Give them a gentle twist in your hand.

Where is this piece located? What is the flipper bat? Is this piece in the hole that runs through the playfield connecting up to the flipper?

The flipper bat is the plastic part of the flipper on which the rubber sits. The bushing goes between the playfield and the bracket underneath. On williams games, you have to remove the entire bracket to replace the bushing because there are 3 5/16" nuts on the end of the 3 screws that hold the bushings.

These are flipper bats:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=269&parent=0

These are the bushings:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=270&parent=0

People often think a weak flipper is caused by a broken or wrong coil and then replace it with a stronger type. 99% of the times the manufacturer had the type of coil right of course and the problem is fixable without replacing the coil.
When doing work on the flipper you don't have to be super careful not to break the solder points.
You can just let the coil hang by the wires. If a wire comes off it was a bad connection and needed to be resoldered anyway.
Btw. very good advise to do one at a time because it's very easy to forget where everything should go back.

$130 bucks? You got off easy

I recently rebuilt my DE SW. Coil Config you have above looked identical to what I saw on mine.

I had a sluggish flipper as well. As stated above, its usually not the coil. I replaced the coil sleeve, plunger, and the plunger/coil stop (along with the flippers and new bushings).

My underpowered/slugish flipper was due to the plunger and coil stop being mushroomed. It (plunger) was dragging inside of the coil sleeve. Replacing these three items alone (sleeve, plunger, stop), brought it back to full power.

After 20+ years you can be certain that these 3 parts are toast.....

The best part is when you get the "re-build" done, you wont have to do it again for a very long time (if ever again). I did my first rebuild 4 years ago and still goin strong today. I still need to replace the cabinet flipper switches as these things look like the originals, but still works. I'am the type --if it aint broke then no need to fix it.

Back that train up.

5032 coils are stronger, are they not? That's why they are recommended for GnR.

Yeah... I seem to have purchased $200 in "stuff" each time I have bought a machine.