(Topic ID: 127623)

Fixing a lockdown bar with welding spots?

By MFPinball

8 years ago


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  • 18 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by Pinchroma
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    #1 8 years ago

    Hi Guys,

    I have a wide body lockdown bar from my sttng with (what look like) welding spots on them. I'm not in the position to take pics right now, so I've added this pic of the internet which looks almost exactly like mine.

    Do you guys have any tips on how to fix this?

    All help and tips appreciated!

    gr Mario

    DSC_2458.jpgDSC_2458.jpg
    #2 8 years ago

    get a new widebody proper williams lockdown bar. : P

    #3 8 years ago

    Regrain it with a scotch bright pad.

    #4 8 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    Regrain it with a scotch bright pad.

    This will take out the weld marks??

    #5 8 years ago

    I have 2 new raw widebody lockdown bars. These are unobtainium. Trying to sell

    #6 8 years ago
    Quoted from Deez:

    This will take out the weld marks??

    Lumps and bumps need to be filed off, then scotch bright will remove the discoloration from the heat of welding and grain the metal.

    #7 8 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    Lumps and bumps need to be filed off, then scotch bright will remove the discoloration from the heat of welding and grain the metal.

    great tip, hope it will work.

    thanks!

    #8 8 years ago

    Let us know if anything works. I have a lockdown bar with even worse welding damage than the picture. I just bought a new one, wouldn't mind trying to fix up the old one.

    #9 8 years ago
    Quoted from DefaultGen:

    Let us know if anything works. I have a lockdown bar with even worse welding damage than the picture. I just bought a new one, wouldn't mind trying to fix up the old one.

    I can't remember who makes it but some company makes a body filler that can be used on metal parts that will be powder coated. Pinchroma might know.

    #10 8 years ago

    Just fill it full of weld if any pits are found once ground down or sanded off. Then grain in side to side motion with sand paper ,scotch brite or powdercoat it. Bam done and looks like new.

    #11 8 years ago
    Quoted from Hawk007:

    Just fill it full of weld if any pits are found once ground down or sanded off. Then grain in side to side motion with sand paper ,scotch brite

    Yes you can do that but remember the lb is stainless steel and the weld is not so it can rust as in the last picture. So yes it is best to powder coat it.

    #12 8 years ago

    If people would just weld the other side none of this would matter.

    #13 8 years ago
    Quoted from Hawk007:

    Just fill it full of weld if any pits are found once ground down or sanded off. Then grain in side to side motion with sand paper ,scotch brite or powdercoat it. Bam done and looks like new.

    sounds great, thanks.

    I'm pretty handy but never welded before, is it difficult for a first time welder to fill these pits without further damaging the lockdown bar?

    #14 8 years ago
    Quoted from MFPinball:

    I'm pretty handy but never welded before, is it difficult for a first time welder to fill these pits without further damaging the lockdown bar?

    Welding is not hard, but it needs experience to look good. MustangPaul is correct in saying it is stainless steel and take it should be TIG welded on the surface with a stainless filler. If you weld it with a MIG welder and a steel filler it may rust if not waxed or clear coated. When I have a broken lockdown bar I drill four holes in the piece underneath. I then Mig weld thru the holes to the top part. This is called plug welding, from the top all you see is the heat discoloration which is easily removed with a scotch pad.

    #15 8 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    Welding is not hard, but it needs experience to look good. MustangPaul is correct in saying it is stainless steel and take it should be TIG welded on the surface with a stainless filler. If you weld it with a MIG welder and a steel filler it may rust if not waxed or clear coated. When I have a broken lockdown bar I drill four holes in the piece underneath. I then Mig weld thru the holes to the top part. This is called plug welding, from the top all you see is the heat discoloration which is easily removed with a scotch pad.

    Sounds like a challenge.

    Im going to try and see if I can find some welding 101 vids to see if I can pick up some extra info on how to weld properly.

    thanks for all the tips and advice, really appreciate it

    #16 8 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    Welding is not hard, but it needs experience to look good. MustangPaul is correct in saying it is stainless steel and take it should be TIG welded on the surface with a stainless filler. If you weld it with a MIG welder and a steel filler it may rust if not waxed or clear coated. When I have a broken lockdown bar I drill four holes in the piece underneath. I then Mig weld thru the holes to the top part. This is called plug welding, from the top all you see is the heat discoloration which is easily removed with a scotch pad.

    Right on GRUMP, MIG is pretty easy but TIG takes finess. And MF just take it to a welding shop, probably only cost $5 to have it TIG welded.

    #17 8 years ago
    Quoted from Pinchroma:

    I have 2 new raw widebody lockdown bars. These are unobtainium. Trying to sell

    What exactly does raw mean? My TZ lockdown is way worse than that pic and even fits loosely and moves around a bit. Want a new one, but not sure how these are unobtanium? Pinball life Sells them for $99. Anyone have a nice one for sale I am looking for one.

    #18 8 years ago

    Raw means not grained, not polished. Perfect for putting your own finish on them. Either fresh grain or powder coat.

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