Here’s my daughter’s iPad 2. The current list of problems is that the power button doesn’t work, the microphone doesn’t work, it won’t charge (either battery or port) and the home button is temperamental. Not a problem, I’ve had this ipad open a couple times before and know what I’m in for. The glass digitizer is cracked (and I cracked it further opening it again) so I have another one on order from AliExpress for $15 cdn shipped.
I have a collection of pry tools and suction cups to help get this open, but to do it properly you’ll want to use a heat gun evenly distributed around the edges. Since I’ve had this one opened before I know that it’s now held together that tightly.
Next thing to do on this model is to flip the digitizer over to the side while you unscrew the lcd panel.
Under the lcd screen you can see how they’re attached. These tiny connectors and flex cables have a lock on the one side of the header, you just pry it up to release the tension and they pull out fairly simply.
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If your just fixing a cracked screen you can stop here, put it back together and you're rocking, but I’m going a lot further into this old guy. My next step is to disconnect the battery from underneath the motherboard. Simply unscrew the connection and remove the old battery. But first there is a couple other things to disconnect,like that wire running above the battery to the controls on the other side. 16ADF78C-D781-4CB8-B999-532204D8C3FD (resized).jpeg
The charge port is simply held in by 2 screws, and the flex cable just snaps together like lego. The connection is wrapped in tape so you need to remove that too.
Ok now that that everything is disconnect I can pull out the battery, it’s held in by glue, so you’ll want to heat it from the backside until it pulls away without to much force. The battery connection sits on a little post that the screw attaches to, so you need to lift the battery connection up before it will pull away from the motherboard. A8063D6D-CC31-41A6-B21C-BE22E09A232C (resized).jpeg
Now that there is some space to work I can get on with pulling out the PCB that controls the buttons. The camera is 2 screws, the mute switch/volume buttons are 3 screws (don’t mix up the longer ones) and the pcb is 2 more screws. 3FD23EF6-B0FA-4C6F-8847-384C90540620 (resized).jpeg
Here’s the new flex cable to be installed, hopefully I can remember how this goes.... 6687B776-8AD0-4A32-9A64-1A779F45E617 (resized).jpeg
Actually it’s not that bad, the buttons all have sticky pads on the flex cable and there’s two nubs to align them correctly. The rest of the flex cable has double sided tape already installed, so this just gets finagled into place. The most difficult part is reconnecting the flex cable to the pcb, but since it’s another lego type connection you know when it’s right. 9492EAED-AC90-4211-B72F-208D38D3A178 (resized).jpeg31ADB7AF-23B6-41C0-A89B-C5DEAD1BB805 (resized).jpeg
Next is the microphone, this one’s simple, pull out the front facing camera, disconnect the flex cable lego connection. Re connect the new mic and slap it back in. 6AA87FED-9501-4B4C-AA1D-8239CB797255 (resized).jpeg
That’s it for this repair, put the new battery in, reconnect everything, attach the digitizer screen and lcd screen, but test everything before you screw the lcd panel back in.1DA03437-C578-4586-85F7-E0613EEEA4C4 (resized).jpeg
So I’m still waiting for the new digitizer to arrive, but that will be a quick job whenever it gets here. But there ya go. Put back together and working like new.7A2F8606-E3BB-4C91-A8E9-EC8DE8CB3B12 (resized).jpeg
The home button is attached to the digitizer, so I’ll be replacing that when the new screen is done.