Its FAST and FREE....make your displays bright and clear in less than 30 seconds! Watch this video and LEARN (and laugh too)...Another of my Todd's Tips vids! Todd from TNT Amusements
Its FAST and FREE....make your displays bright and clear in less than 30 seconds! Watch this video and LEARN (and laugh too)...Another of my Todd's Tips vids! Todd from TNT Amusements
Another option if you don't have a power adapter handy. I've done this on a dozen displays so far without issue so far.
Remove the display from the game (I usually use fine-tipped needle nose pliers to squeeze the tip of the PCB mounts to slip the display off them--there is also a tube that various vendors sell that does the same thing).
Take a pair of wires with alligator clips at each end. Open the coin door and attach one end of each wire to the contacts of the 12v lockout coil on the coin door. Attach the other ends of each wireto the outer pins of the display.
Turn on the game. As soon as the filaments in the display glow red, start counting until you reach 5 seconds, then turn off the game. I've heard that any longer may overcook and damage the display, so it's probably best to stay with 5 seconds.
Disconnect the wires, plug the display back into the game, and voila--a bright display once again.
Yet another technique is on pinwiki, which uses the GI lighting in the backbox as the power source for recharging displays:
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Rejuvenating_Tired_Displays
Quoted from Geocab:Any similar technique to recharge a DMD?
Unfortunately, no.
This "recharge" technique is somewhat of a misnomer. All you are doing is overheating the filaments in the displays to burn off any residue/tarnish that has accumulated with age.
DMDs tend to go dim because of burn-in or outgassing of the plasma (air leaking into the glass). If you have a Gottlieb DMD with these symptoms, you can sometimes install it in a Bally/Williams game, and it will brighten up for a time. This is because Gottlieb games drive the DMDs at a lower voltage than other manufacturers. But overall, the DMD will continue to slowly fail over time.
Quoted from mima:AC or DC or it does not mstter?
Don't know if it matters but I've always used DC and it works well
Quoted from ForceFlow:Unfortunately, no.
This "recharge" technique is somewhat of a misnomer. All you are doing is overheating the filaments in the displays to burn off any residue/tarnish that has accumulated with age.
DMDs tend to go dim because of burn-in or outgassing of the plasma (air leaking into the glass). If you have a Gottlieb DMD with these symptoms, you can sometimes install it in a Bally/Williams game, and it will brighten up for a time. This is because Gottlieb games drive the DMDs at a lower voltage than other manufacturers. But overall, the DMD will continue to slowly fail over time.
I have a 80b display that I can just barely see some of the commas on the display’s and have slowly I have basically replace everything on the display just to get the commas to slightly show. I threw another worming display in the game and I came on just fine. Is this an option on a an 80b display or will it do nothing but ruin it?
Quoted from Willillist:I have a 80b display that I can just barely see some of the commas on the display’s and have slowly I have basically replace everything on the display just to get the commas to slightly show. I threw another worming display in the game and I came on just fine. Is this an option on a an 80b display or will it do nothing but ruin it?
I've never needed to attempt it.
However, the wide alphanumeric displays are a vacuum florescent display like the 6/7-digit numeric displays, so it might be worth a try. Just be sure to look at the schematics to figure out what pins you need to use.
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