New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 169809)

System 11 power supply board 3J8 connector fixed


By cosmokramer

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 52 posts
  • 35 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by snyper2099
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 15 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20161008_172749 (resized).jpg
20161008_172447 (resized).jpg
20161008_163256 (resized).jpg
20161008_163403 (resized).jpg
20161008_142305 (resized).jpg
20161008_140544 (resized).jpg
20161008_134312 (resized).jpg
Christmas Vacation Gif (resized).png
Christmas Vacation (resized).jpg
Screen Shot 2016-09-28 at 1.43.21 PM (resized).png
IMG_4110 (resized).JPG
20160927_174320 (resized).jpg
monkey (resized).jpg
20160925_160138 (resized).jpg
20160925_160132 (resized).jpg

There are 52 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 4 years ago

Just picked up a High Speed, got everything working (it really was just a fuse) but I found this mess. This is a real beat up players game, should I just leave it since eveverything works? I dont want to re pin this and risk damaging the board unless it needs it.

20160925_160132 (resized).jpg
20160925_160138 (resized).jpg

#2 4 years ago

Holy hell.

#3 4 years ago

Fix it !! Then you will find out how easy the power supply board will be to remove when a problem arises.

#4 4 years ago

I guess it depends on your skill level of that repair . Me?, I'm a perfectionist and would loose sleep until it was fixed . However sometimes , I wish I had just left it the hell alone .
That said , I think there might be a solder hack on a single GI wire on my road show that I bought 20 years ago , haven't had the speaker panel folded down in 20 years , so can't remember . Damnit , now I will be up all night

#5 4 years ago

I'd leave it alone.

#6 4 years ago

If it was mine, I'd fix it and be done with it.

#7 4 years ago

I vote fix it

#8 4 years ago

Just play it. In a month if you're still thinking about it then fix it.

#9 4 years ago

Fix it, but wait until this F&^%#g hot weather goes away.

#10 4 years ago

My dilemma is that of course my instinct says fix it, but my experience in board work consists of a few transistor replacements and remote battery packs. I have never re pined a board and since it works now I would feel like a dumbass if after my "fix" it no longer works. It looks like whoever did the work was not very neat and I don't want to destroy the traces trying to repair it. But if its going to burst into flames during a game I should probably try...

monkey (resized).jpg

#11 4 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

I dont want to re pin this and risk damaging the board unless it needs it.

The board is already damaged and it needs it.

#12 4 years ago

Alot of flux crap usually make this look worst than they really are. I'd say fix it.

#13 4 years ago

Fix. You can't remove the board for service with the wires directly soldered like that.

Take photos from 3 angles. Desolder one wire at a time, then trim, strip, crimp, and insert into the connector. After you're all done with the connector, install the header pins. Check your work against the manual. Plug it in and fire it up.

#14 4 years ago

I'd say fix it. If you have replaced transistors, and installed a remote battery pack, it sounds like you at least have experience with the soldering iron. Putting the male end on the board is super easy and should only take 20 minutes.

As for the connector on the wires, that is a little bit different. But all you need is a wire stripper and a tool to crimp the pins onto the wire. Cut the old part of the wire, strip it to expose nice new part of wire, crimp on metal pin, insert into female connector, repeat until all wires have been done. Make sure to put the wires in the proper order. Your picture should be a good enough reference. But you can also label the wires from right to left with tape and a marker to write on the tape.

#15 4 years ago

Call me crazy...buy a plug and play power supply board.

#16 4 years ago

Yes that's crazy. To fix this yourself would probably cost under $5 if you had the soldering iron and solder, wire cutters, and crimping tool.

To buy a whole new board? That's pretty costly.

#17 4 years ago

Fix it!

#18 4 years ago

That's a pretty bad solder job. Which could further be damaging the board/wires. Def fix it. If you're around Chicago Ill do it for free.

#19 4 years ago
Quoted from Msch:

Call me crazy...buy a plug and play power supply board.

You would still have to cut the wires , re crimp them and make a new connector. Buying a new board wouldn't fix anything.

#20 4 years ago

fix it.

if there's a bad connection (eg. cold solder joint or frayed wires), you're now putting un-due stress and potentially current at that point, and will damage the board itself instead of a molex or IDC connector

#21 4 years ago

I would buy a new board, and plug

#22 4 years ago
Quoted from Wyopinball:

I would buy a new board, and plug

The hardest part of the fix is repinning the connector. The traces on those boards are so robust they are easy to work on.

-1
#23 4 years ago

My black knight board looked like that... bought a new board works and looks great

#24 4 years ago

Fix it. Those wires are just begging to short against each other. Plus, like others have said, it will make it much easier if / when you need to take the board out at some point.

#25 4 years ago

Do you guys also buy a new car if it runs out of gas?

On a serious note, replacing the connector on the board is the easy part. That connector consists of just 2 massive solder joints. The hardest part is going to be replacing the connector on the wires (which you'd also have to do when replacing the board).

If you're not comfortable with taking out the board and working on it, and it works right now, I'd just leave it as is. Yes, its a dirty and ugly hack, but in fact I think it makes a more solid connection than the Molex connector does...

On the other hand if you're feeling adventurous you might want to consider replacing the capacitors on that board while you have it out, and also replacing ZR2 and ZR4 with 1N4763A diodes to lower the display voltage (if you're running the original displays).

#26 4 years ago

Ok, sounds like I will fix it...I have replaced connectors before, I feel confident in that area. My concern is re pinning the board, as I would hate for it too not work when I was done.
Looks like this is a great chance to learn another skill. I want to avoid buying a replacement unless its needed.

#27 4 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

If you're around Chicago Ill do it for free.

I'm in California, but I really appreciate the offer. I will clean it up and post a pic of the results.

#28 4 years ago
Quoted from koen12344:

Do you guys also buy a new car if it runs out of gas?

Haha or buy a new car if the wiper blades start streaking.

Quoted from cosmokramer:

Ok, sounds like I will fix it...I have replaced connectors before, I feel confident in that area.

Good for you. As others have said, buying a new board doesn't really accomplish anything (except lower your bank account) since you still have to re-pin the female connector either way.

#29 4 years ago

Get one of these:

amazon.com link »

Do your homework and make sure you know how to use it. A desoldering gun will make this 1000x easier than using desolder rope, a manual vacuum sucker, or whatever else cheap solutions there are. A desolder gun with built in vacuum is a WORLD of difference and will make tackling projects like this a LOT easier. I have been blessed enough to have a another local collector have a desoldering gun, and trust me, this is worth its price of admission.

Not a jab here at the OP, just in general: it blows my mind when some people have $25,000+ of machines and yet won't buy a $250-$500 tool. Knowledge is power, and having the right tools will give you the autonomy to fix your games and be less dependent on others.

Don't get me wrong; I am grateful for those in this hobby that do board work. Sometimes you need someone else to help you learn or you may be away from home for weeks-months, and you want someone to fix your board so when you get home you're game is 100% ready to go. There are exceptions to the rule.

Best way to say it: I want to be the one that decides when my game is getting fixed. Getting a PF clear-coated - got it -that's a specialty that you have to take a ticket and get in line for. Working on PCB boards is something we can all learn.

/better yourself rant off, and like I said, not directed at the OP

#30 4 years ago

The cost of the FR-300 is worth it if it can save just one MPU from being scrapped due to damaged traces from fiddling with desoldering braid.

#31 4 years ago

Give a man a new board and he will fix one pinball machine. Give him a desoldering gun and he will fix pinball boards for a lifetime.

#32 4 years ago

if you think is a keeper you fix it, to early to tell right now no? else leave it alone. Its a lot of work and tools / materials required. Thats what I would do

#33 4 years ago

Who needs a quality connection--I'd just reflow some solder

#34 4 years ago

as log as the ball flow is there, i would care less about the other flow

#35 4 years ago

Fix it.. It's really not that difficult of a fix..

#36 4 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

It looks like whoever did the work was not very neat and I don't want to destroy the traces trying to repair it.

Do it! PSU traces are really robust. If you desolder a pad, it isn't the end of the world on this board. This is a good board to practice on to be honest. Hard to make it worse.

#37 4 years ago
Quoted from thedefog:

Do it! PSU traces are really robust. If you desolder a pad, it isn't the end of the world on this board. This is a good board to practice on to be honest. Hard to make it worse.

I agree...I cant make it any worse and it really is a skill I need to learn.
Thanks to all for the advice....

#38 4 years ago

You certainly can make it worse. Watch some YouTube videos first. Buy a basic soldering kit off eBay to practice on. Then work on this valuable old board.

#39 4 years ago

Question I would have is why this was done in the first place, burnt connector? but if it were me, I'd fix it either myself or send it out if I couldn't.

#40 4 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Looks like this is a great chance to learn another skill.

I was literally thinking the same thing. It's always incredibly rewarding when that happens. Do it, get it out of the way, and learn something new while you're at it. It's a win-win-win.

#41 4 years ago

Send it to John Wart, shouldnt cost TOO much. I say fix it as well.

#42 4 years ago

Fix it - That's a fire waiting to happen.

#43 4 years ago

Back side...

20160927_174320 (resized).jpg
Parts are ordered, I will keep it turned off until they arrive.

#44 4 years ago

Was it in the circuit that the blown fuse was in ?
Fix it.
Don't be scared its only pinball.

#45 4 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

You certainly can make it worse. Watch some YouTube videos first. Buy a basic soldering kit off eBay to practice on. Then work on this valuable old board.

Perhaps with someone else. But Cosmo does nice work. Besides, this isn't a very valuable board. The only somewhat difficult part to source is the IC.

Cosmo, If you're really feeling brave, buy a cap kit from GPE and recap the thing too. Polarity of all the caps are clearly marked on the silk-screening. The goof-proof way is just do one cap at a time. Read the value of the cap you removed, install new cap in its place with the longer lead going into the hole with the + sign. Kinda hard to screw up, even if you've never done it before. Just triple check your work. Once you've done that, you'll probably feel a lot more confident with board work, and it'll open up a lot of possibilities for you when you're buying games.

#46 4 years ago

IMG_4110 (resized).JPG

#47 4 years ago

OP when he plugs in the new connector:

Screen Shot 2016-09-28 at 1.43.21 PM (resized).png
Christmas Vacation (resized).jpg
Christmas Vacation Gif (resized).png

1 week later
#48 4 years ago

Got parts a few days ago but was waiting for the new crimper to arrive. I did a few connectors before using needlenose pliers to crimp connectors and it was awful. Using the ratcheting crimpers and wire strippers made the new connector a breeze...

20161008_134312 (resized).jpg
20161008_140544 (resized).jpg
20161008_142305 (resized).jpg
Next up is re pinning the board...

#49 4 years ago

Cleaned up as much as I could...there was an area that lifted away from the board on the front side, that doesnt look very reassuring...
Sucked the solder from the holes and inserted new pins. Soldered to the best of my ability under the circumstances.

20161008_163403 (resized).jpg
20161008_163256 (resized).jpg
Powered up and everything works as it should. Very easy fix.
20161008_172749 (resized).jpg
That looks better

20161008_172447 (resized).jpg

#50 4 years ago

Thread title changed to better identify content for those with similar issues....

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 9.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
$ 15.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
$ 109.00
Cabinet Parts
Tilted Pinball
$ 17.00
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 164.99
Lighting - Led
PinballBulbs
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 19.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 60.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
RobTune
$ 15.75
Cabinet Parts
Tilted Pinball
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 29.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 69.50
Boards
Pinball Haus
From: $ 44.00
$ 8,800.00
Pinball Machine
Stealth arcade
$ 5,899.00
Pinball Machine
The Pinball Place
There are 52 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside