(Topic ID: 198773)

Fisheye in clearcoat, what went wrong?

By uncivil_engineer

6 years ago


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  • 42 posts
  • 29 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by quinntopia
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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    #1 6 years ago

    At long last today I decided it was time to finish the clearcoat on my SF2 playfield.

    I spent my spare time over the last few days setting up my spray booth. The last time I tried to paint in my shop, I think I got more paint in my shop than on my playfield.

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    I mixed my paint like I have in the past, using Omni mc730 clear with mh738 hardener and mr295 reducer. It was a nice 65 degrees in the shop when I started painting.

    I cleaned my playfield with naphtha (camping fuel here in California) and set my gun up for a heavy coat.

    Then disaster stuck... Fisheye, and in a big way.
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    So what caused the contamination? I don't think it was the compressor, the air filters are almost new. My best working theory right now, is that the rags are used to clean the playfield were contaminated. I use recycled rags that have been washed. I might have picked up one that was used to wax a play field.

    Does anyone else have any suggestions for avoiding fisheye in the future?

    For now, it looks like I will have to start sanding it back down in a day or two.

    #9 6 years ago

    I forgot the activator is temperature sensitive. It was 65 to 70 degrees in the shop when I sprayed. The 738 activator I used is intended for 75-90 degrees... Would this cause the issue I am seeing?

    #10 6 years ago

    My compressor has an oil trap/water trap at the pressure regulator... It is empty. I could put another water trap on my spray gun.

    #14 6 years ago

    This is the sandpaper used exclusively on the playfield.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XF4QYVP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

    It is a silicone carbide based sand paper. I wonder if this is part of my problem...

    #18 6 years ago
    Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

    Silicone sandpaper has to be a typo. Silica is sand, silicone is not.
    Silicon carbide is a common abrasive, silicone is one letter off. NFW silicone carbide is an actual material.

    Considering the 3m stuff is also uses silicon carbide abrasive. I think the silicone may indeed be a typo in the description of the sand paper I have been using.

    #20 6 years ago
    Quoted from merccat:

    Are you sure the camping fuel was actually naphtha? Last I looked for some it seemed like they had caught onto that work around and camping fuel is something else now.

    I bought the fuel over a year ago. It seems to act like naphtha. It evaporates very quickly and leaves no residue behind. What other options do we have in California?

    #29 6 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Take a glass eyedropper, fill it with 2PAC and start filling all those holes before the clear gets too hard.
    Allow to cure for a few days, then sand it back to flat.
    Looks like silicone contamination. Could be you've used Dryer Sheets in you dryer before, and now everything you dry will have wax and silicone in it.
    Don't use fisheye eliminator:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/17#post-1699777

    I will get my droppers out this evening. This method sounds like the best way to salvage the coating I have already put on.

    BTW, this was not the first coat of clear I have put on this playfield. This was supposed to be my 3rd and final coat. None of the other coats have done this.

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