(Topic ID: 198773)

Fisheye in clearcoat, what went wrong?

By uncivil_engineer

6 years ago


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  • 42 posts
  • 29 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by quinntopia
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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    #6 6 years ago

    I've never cleared a playfield, but I've done quite a few vehicle paint jobs so I'm thinking contaminants left on the playfield before you applied the clear. That is the one time you really want to use fresh wipe cloths. Some waxes can be a pain to get rid of, so a couple of good cleanings may be needed.

    It's likely not a lost cause, give it a few days to harden and wetsand the surface to remove all the fish eyes. Then lay another coat or two of clear. If you really want to go nuts, give that coat a week and wetsand it again with some really fine paper and then polish it with a buffer to a mirror finish.

    #12 6 years ago

    This was my last major paint project, it's a little bigger than a pinball machine.

    The interior was painted with just normal enamel paint with a hardening agent added. The exterior was painted with urethane. Think something like clear coat paint, but with color added. Mixed with an activator and a hardening agent, it's really tough stuff. It's actually very similar to what they use on commercial trucks now.

    Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

    I forgot the activator is temperature sensitive. It was 65 to 70 degrees in the shop when I sprayed. The 738 activator I used is intended for 75-90 degrees... Would this cause the issue I am seeing?

    I don't believe so, activator is just what causes the paint to dry and harden. Just being below it's recommended temp would just mean it would take longer to set up, unless you were really out of its recommended temp range. But that more than 5-10 degrees....more like 15-20 degrees.

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