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Quoted from vasevida:Thanks, will give it a read. When you say “chip failed” do you mean the board the connector for the switch column goes to?
He means one of the ICs on the MPU board. Prolly U20 (hopefully socketed.....early B/W games had them directly soldered to the boards)
If you touch more than one pin on the switch matrix pins of the MPU, you're NOT going to blow up anything. worst case, you give yourself a false positive (misdiagnose one problem for another) or something of the sort. You will NOT blow up your board.
Quoted from vasevida:OK so I checked the diodes on the two rows that are out, and they all seem to be good. So I will fashion a jumper cable to check the board connections.
On a diode note, I have a question, why when the multi tester is in diode check mode does it sometimes give a clear answer and sometimes not? For instance on all of the rows that are out in the matrix, it gives a reading of around 650 when black is on the banded end of the diode and red on other, and then when you reverse it, it gives a clear no connection signal. But on rollover switches and the like, where there is a plug into the switches, like trough switch 1 #16, it gives a slight reading in each direction? Like 001 or - 001, why does the multi meter read in this manner? It’s not possible that all these diodes are bad is it? Why do some give such a clear cut reading and others do not? Sorry if I am a bit off topic now, just looking for greater understanding....thanks in advance. I guess it’s possible that there are many bad diodes?
The way you described it first is how it should be. Good one way but not the other. If you get readings both ways with the leads = bad diode.
Best way to test without being mislead, disconnect one of the legs of the diode from the switch and test it. Then you'll know 99.9% the outcome.
Quoted from PinMonk:Wow. See all that green stuff all over the pins below where the battery pack was? Your CPU board has massive battery damage. At least 13 resistors, 2 capacitors and 4 chips are toast based on first look. Send it out to get fixed up. Problem solved.
Dead on. Wow. That's pretty vicious damage there.
OP, respectfully, don't try to fix this. Let someone like Rob Anthony or Chris Hibler knock this out. This is a job that needs their expertise.
Quoted from vasevida:Yeah I was surprised that I had missed that damage years before. It cleaned up well though and seemed pretty superficial.
But I got the machine for 400 bucks and it’s in great shape otherwise (playfield, cabinet etc) I did clean up the battery damage when I bought it but must have missed this. Normally I would agree with you, but.....this machine has worked fine for over five years since then. That all being said, I love this machine and and do ok, so I can spare the cash to fix the board. Might even throw a color DMD in there as well....
Can you fine folks tell me where I could buy a new CPU board of how to arrange having Rob Anthony or Chris Hibler fix it?
Thanks in advance. This is the last thing I need to fix in my collection.
New board:
https://ksarcade.net/rottendog-mpu089-wpc-89-a-12742.html
Repair specialists:
https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/chrishibler
https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/borygard
There you go!
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