All,

I need to replace switch #62 and it doesn't seem to be available. Best thing I can find is http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-62 . Won't work as is, but there seems to be enough wire that I could potentially bend the 1/2" or whatever it is to make it work. I have searched and can't find a solution. Any Ideas?

Thanks,

Aaron

Thanks. Just bought a few switches. I'll make one of them work.

-Aaron

Thought about the 'swap' Out-West, just didn't know if it would work. Never tried to remove a wire before. Will try that first!

Thanks.

OK, I have replaced the switch, and I still am not able to close the switch. I have tried borrowing the hot(?) (green) from another nearby switch, and I'm still not able to close #62 in test mode. This is my first attempt at anything other than replacing a switch, so I'm not really sure what to do next. Is the next step to follow the two yellows to make sure that they are both soundly terminated? Any other tests I should be doing?

Thanks,
Aaron

Switch doesn't work during gameplay or in test mode. I first noticed because I can't advance the captive ball reward. On another note, I have since realized that the gate in the top loop does not open. I don't know if the captive ball advance requires both the left and right top loop switches or if just the top right switch advances?

I did solder a new diode on the switch, and have tried two new switches (same new diode on both switches as I only bought 1)

I have not noticed any other switches that are not working.

As for actuator adjustment, I have removed the switch from the playfield and depressed it completely.

Will check wires for breaks, and any other advice or thoughts are appreciated. I don't yet understand the switch matrix and how all of these things work together yet, so I'm at a big troubleshooting disadvantage

Thanks again,
Aaron

Will try all the above and report back after doing family activities. Thanks so much.

-Aaron

OK, all other switches in column and row other than coin door test good (open and was able to close).
I did the alligator clip jumper, and switch stayed open.
Attached is a pic of the switch (I've only had it 2 weeks and haven't cleaned yet, so don't judge my dirty, yet brand new switch (and i'm working on better soldering...) I've also attached 2 pics of the DMD. One with the switch open, and one with it closed. Never changes to closed, but the DMD changes (two additional blocks top left). I have no idea what it means or what to do with the information, but it definitely changes when I depress the switch wire.

Thanks,
Aaron

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Also the gate is opened via an actuator. Doesn't fire in test mode. Will check soldering and will try to source a replacement if I can't get it to fire.

edit the last post, there is a coil as part of the actuator assembly. Is there a way to test the coil?

just edited and added the pics. First pic is when I close the switch. Second is when it is open.

Thanks

cat, that's the way it was when I got it. Two wires soldered to one pole, and the diode between pole 1 and 3 with green on pole 2. Right or not I have no idea. I just assumed the switch was bad and made it up the same way. Just looked again, and 2 wires on 1 pole and only diode on opposite pole is how all the switches are wired.

Three terminal switch. Green plug on middle terminal. Tried many times for a good pic. Was the best I got...

Bad diode! Well, that and some screw ups on my part that will go unmentioned. Gate actuator/coil is still bad, so no captive ball advance yet. Will just order a new one, not worth messing with it.

Thanks a ton, I learned a lot from this thread and hopefully I won't have to bug anyone again with this kind of issue.

Thanks again,
Aaron