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(Topic ID: 106954)

Fish Tales Switch #62 (Top Right Loop)


By cincyITguy

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 30 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by cincyITguy
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#1 6 years ago

All,

I need to replace switch #62 and it doesn't seem to be available. Best thing I can find is http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-62 . Won't work as is, but there seems to be enough wire that I could potentially bend the 1/2" or whatever it is to make it work. I have searched and can't find a solution. Any Ideas?

Thanks,

Aaron

#2 6 years ago

Pinball life or bayareaamusemnt, planetary pinball might have. And if not, I would grab a common switch and bend the end to make it work for now and get the piece when it becomes a avaialble. Just make a note of it on your buying list.

#3 6 years ago

Unfortunately, that switch is damn near unobtainium. Here's a suggestion from another thread.

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#4 6 years ago

Thanks. Just bought a few switches. I'll make one of them work.

-Aaron

#5 6 years ago

Obtain new switch and move actuator wire from old switch to new switch.

#6 6 years ago

Thought about the 'swap' Out-West, just didn't know if it would work. Never tried to remove a wire before. Will try that first!

Thanks.

#7 6 years ago

Actually come to think of it I know someone that just parted a Fish Tales.... I'll ask...

#8 6 years ago

The actuator arm (the "wire") is pretty easy to remove. There are two nubs on each side of the switch it connects to. Just kinda wiggle/pop it off. May need to gently squeeze the metal tips a bit together to get a tight (but not too tight so it doesn't work) fit on the new switch.

#9 5 years ago

OK, I have replaced the switch, and I still am not able to close the switch. I have tried borrowing the hot(?) (green) from another nearby switch, and I'm still not able to close #62 in test mode. This is my first attempt at anything other than replacing a switch, so I'm not really sure what to do next. Is the next step to follow the two yellows to make sure that they are both soundly terminated? Any other tests I should be doing?

Thanks,
Aaron

#10 5 years ago

All other switches work?

#11 5 years ago

So fill us in: switch doesn't work in test mode or game? And it's the actual switch, not just an adjustment issue of the actuator arm, right?

Should there be a diode on the switch?

Also, follow those switch wires. Look for breaks.

Also: confirm all other switches are working. You need to figure out if this issues is specific to just this switch, or is there a larger switch matrix issue present.

#12 5 years ago

Switch doesn't work during gameplay or in test mode. I first noticed because I can't advance the captive ball reward. On another note, I have since realized that the gate in the top loop does not open. I don't know if the captive ball advance requires both the left and right top loop switches or if just the top right switch advances?

I did solder a new diode on the switch, and have tried two new switches (same new diode on both switches as I only bought 1)

I have not noticed any other switches that are not working.

As for actuator adjustment, I have removed the switch from the playfield and depressed it completely.

Will check wires for breaks, and any other advice or thoughts are appreciated. I don't yet understand the switch matrix and how all of these things work together yet, so I'm at a big troubleshooting disadvantage

Thanks again,
Aaron

#13 5 years ago

I would also figure out where that switch connects to the CPU. That wire may be pulled out just enough from its connector to cause this.

On a side note, this doesn't soumd hard to figure out.

#14 5 years ago

Does that top gate open and close with a coil? If so test it in diagnostics. Report back

#15 5 years ago
Quoted from cincyITguy:

Will check wires for breaks, and any other advice or thoughts are appreciated. I don't yet understand the switch matrix and how all of these things work together yet, so I'm at a big troubleshooting disadvantage
Thanks again,
Aaron

Use an alligator clip lead to jumper the the terminals of the switch. If it reads closed in test mode, switch itself is bad. If it does not, wiring or diode problem. Could be wire further up the daisy chain at another switch, maybe diode on wrong terminals. Another suggestion would be to take a close up pic so we can see what it looks like too.

#16 5 years ago

If you have a manual check all the switches in the row and column of that switch. If not, test all the other switches in the game to verify it is not a matrix issue.

#17 5 years ago

Will try all the above and report back after doing family activities. Thanks so much.

-Aaron

#18 5 years ago

OK, all other switches in column and row other than coin door test good (open and was able to close).
I did the alligator clip jumper, and switch stayed open.
Attached is a pic of the switch (I've only had it 2 weeks and haven't cleaned yet, so don't judge my dirty, yet brand new switch (and i'm working on better soldering...) I've also attached 2 pics of the DMD. One with the switch open, and one with it closed. Never changes to closed, but the DMD changes (two additional blocks top left). I have no idea what it means or what to do with the information, but it definitely changes when I depress the switch wire.

Thanks,
Aaron

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#19 5 years ago

Also the gate is opened via an actuator. Doesn't fire in test mode. Will check soldering and will try to source a replacement if I can't get it to fire.

#20 5 years ago

edit the last post, there is a coil as part of the actuator assembly. Is there a way to test the coil?

#21 5 years ago

Yes coil test in diagnostics.

You can also ground the coil to test it but someone else will explain how

#22 5 years ago
Quoted from cincyITguy:

OK, all other switches in column and row other than coin door test good (open and was able to close).
I did the alligator clip jumper, and switch stayed open.
Attached is a pic of the switch (I've only had it 2 weeks and haven't cleaned yet, so don't judge my dirty, yet brand new switch (and i'm working on better soldering...) I've also attached 2 pics of the DMD. One with the switch open, and one with it closed. Never changes to closed, but the DMD changes (two additional blocks top left). I have no idea what it means or what to do with the information, but it definitely changes when I depress the switch wire.
Thanks,
Aaron

Your attached pics didn't show up, Aaron.

The left hand side of the display will indicate the position of each closed switch in the switch matrix by filling the appropriate square. Sounds like you are activating a switch and two are closing, perhaps when we get a pic we can better tell what is going on from the DMD display.

#23 5 years ago

just edited and added the pics. First pic is when I close the switch. Second is when it is open.

Thanks

#24 5 years ago

Are you missing a wire to the switch? There should probably be one on the other side. Looks like a ground?

#25 5 years ago

I don't have a WPC based game, From what I am seeing on the DMD, all those blocks are closed switches...and it looks like a problem if two of them are becoming closed from one switch activation.

Any WPC familiar folks out there to verify this?

#26 5 years ago
Quoted from catboxer:

Are you missing a wire to the switch? There should probably be one on the other side. Looks like a ground?

+1

All I can see is two wires that look like they are attached to one terminal. Is that a two or three terminal switch?

#27 5 years ago

cat, that's the way it was when I got it. Two wires soldered to one pole, and the diode between pole 1 and 3 with green on pole 2. Right or not I have no idea. I just assumed the switch was bad and made it up the same way. Just looked again, and 2 wires on 1 pole and only diode on opposite pole is how all the switches are wired.

#28 5 years ago

Three terminal switch. Green plug on middle terminal. Tried many times for a good pic. Was the best I got...

#29 5 years ago

Look at the switch test, it tells you the colors to the switch. See if they are all there and check the loom to see if one's cut back.

Edit: Well NM if they are all that way. Also didn't see the middle terminal.

#30 5 years ago

Bad diode! Well, that and some screw ups on my part that will go unmentioned. Gate actuator/coil is still bad, so no captive ball advance yet. Will just order a new one, not worth messing with it.

Thanks a ton, I learned a lot from this thread and hopefully I won't have to bug anyone again with this kind of issue.

Thanks again,
Aaron

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