(Topic ID: 299472)

Fish Tales Stopped working - Won't start & no DMD display

By ltngbolt

2 years ago


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There are 67 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 2 years ago

I need Help diagnosing what happened and what to do. My Fish Tales was in storage for about 5 years. It worked fine before storage. I replaced the batteries (It has a remote battery pack), turned it on, set the time and date which was asked for on the display, set it to Free Play and played for a couple hours, with no problems other than some lamps out.

The next day I turned the machine on and the DMD was only half lit (on the right side) and it slowly continued to degrade until there was nothing displaying at all. From what I could make out, it said to set the time and date again, but I wasn't able to do it before the display totally went black. There are no lamps lit, no activity at all except leds lit on the boards. I turned it off and on a few times and nothing happens. All lamps out, no sound, no activity and no DMD display.

After a bit of research, I checked the leds 19-21. 19 never lights at all on startup. 20 flickers (not a 1 second blink) once when I flip the under cabinet power switch on and 21 is always lit. There is a popping noise from the speakers when flipping the switch on and a bit of static out of the speakers continuously.

Only one time, when I turned the power switch on and off a few times, led 20 started to flash always as I think it is supposed to do. There also was one bong sound. The DMD also had 3 dots lit up in the bottom right corner. The machine lamps all came on so I pressed the start button and to my surprise a ball came out. Sound also was working. I launched the ball into play and it seemed to work except the flippers were dead and still no DMD display. Once I turned it off, I am unable to get anything to light up again. Only led 21 and other board leds 1,4,6,7 are steady on. I checked all cables to make sure they are seated firmly, but no change.

I am not able to do any board soldering work, but I can do stuff like change the boards, cables & part replacements. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas on what could be wrong and where to start. I'd like to know before I call someone if it's something I can't fix myself. But I don't know where to start without a DMD to run diagnostics.

Thanks a bunch,
Dan

#2 2 years ago

I would have started with checking all the voltages at the testpoints.

Normal measurements at the testpoints:

TP1: 15 VDC
TP2: 5 VDC
TP3: 12 VDC
TP6: 75 VDC
TP7: 22 VDC
TP8: 18 VDC

Testpoints (resized).pngTestpoints (resized).png
#3 2 years ago

How about posting pictures of the boards with the game on.

#4 2 years ago

Here's images of the left and right. Hope this helps

IMG_2606 (resized).jpgIMG_2606 (resized).jpgIMG_2607 (resized).jpgIMG_2607 (resized).jpg
#5 2 years ago

Reseat these 4 connectors on the driver board and this ribbon cable. Any improvement to the game booting up?pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png2019-02-02 14_20_45-WPC ribbon cable to reseat - Paint (resized).png2019-02-02 14_20_45-WPC ribbon cable to reseat - Paint (resized).png

#6 2 years ago

Hey maniac,

I tried reseating those connectors and the cable, still nothing. I did order some new cables for the machine as these got black marks on them. I don't know if you can test them, but they are almost 30 years old and I figured that it couldn't hurt to get new ones

#7 2 years ago

Is the middle LED blinking on the CPU board? If not disconnect the ribbon cables from the CPU board and try again.

#8 2 years ago

No, LED 20 is not blinking. I disconnect the cable and then the top Led 19 comes on for a bit and now the middle led 20 is blinking and all the lamps on the machine are lit. Does that mean a bad cable?

#9 2 years ago

And still no DMD

#10 2 years ago

Also, I can start a game and it is the same result as yesterday. Flippers don't work, no sound effects, and no dmd

#11 2 years ago

I only disconnected the top two ribbon cables above the leds, and the machine boots, no flippers or DMD

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from ltngbolt:

I only disconnected the top two ribbon cables above the leds, and the machine boots, no flippers or DMD

Expected that you will not have any flippers or DMD with the ribbon cables disconnected to the other boards.

With power off, can you press on all the IC's that are in IC sockets on the CPU board? Try it again with the ribbon cables connected.

#13 2 years ago

I'll try that now. I just measured test point voltages:

TP1 14.54 should be 15
TP2 4.99 should be 5
TP3 11.93 should be 12
TP6 70.8 should be 75
TP7 0.59 I think this is problematic- should be 22 although I don't know what this controls
TP8 16.49 should be 18

#14 2 years ago

After pressing on all the ICs ,and with all the cables reconnected still nothing, no boot

New readings after connecting all cables
TP6 is now 73.6
TP7 is now reading 51.1
TP8 is now 17.99

#15 2 years ago
Quoted from ltngbolt:

I need Help diagnosing what happened and what to do.
Dan

Can you take a hi-res picture of JUST this area at the bottom of the CPU board on the right (close up, in focus, move the battery replacement wire leads out of the way)? One of the chip pins looks green, which may be an artifact or may indicate corrosion on the CPU board. If you're having trouble focusing, you can focus lock on most phones by holding your finger on the screen of the area you want the focus to be.

fishtales-cpu-closeup (resized).jpgfishtales-cpu-closeup (resized).jpg
#16 2 years ago

Here it is

IMG_2613 (resized).jpgIMG_2613 (resized).jpg
#17 2 years ago

The last pic had some shadows, here's a brighter one

IMG_2616 (resized).jpgIMG_2616 (resized).jpg
#18 2 years ago

Have you checked all fuses?

#19 2 years ago
Quoted from ltngbolt:

I disconnect the cable and then the top Led 19 comes on for a bit and now the middle led 20 is blinking and all the lamps on the machine are lit. Does that mean a bad cable?

This only happens to boot correctly as you mentioned above with the top 2 ribbon cables disconnected? With power off, try reseating multiple times at each ribbon cable connection. Yes, sounds like the ribbon cables suck.

Potentially, may help using a toothbrush and alcohol to clean the board connectors where these ribbon cables plug in.

#20 2 years ago

So I checked the fuses and did find a problem. The top fuse was blown. F111 - 5A
I put a new one in and it instantly blew when I turned it on.
The card says Flasher Secondary

Any ideas?

IMG_2617 (resized).jpgIMG_2617 (resized).jpgIMG_2618 (resized).jpgIMG_2618 (resized).jpg
#21 2 years ago
Quoted from ltngbolt:

The last pic had some shadows, here's a brighter one
[quoted image]

EDIT: NEVERMIND ALL BELOW. Get the F111 fuse blowing issue fixed first. Likely BR4 on the power driver board.

On closeup the socketed 2803 looks clean. The green I saw on the end leg in the low-res pic must have been an artifact.

Try pressing on the square chip in the center of the CPU board all around the chip to reseat it a bit. Those connections can get dirty and cause it not to communicate well.

#22 2 years ago
Quoted from ltngbolt:

So I checked the fuses and did find a problem. The top fuse was blown. F111 - 5A
I put a new one in and it instantly blew when I turned it on.
The card says Flasher Secondary
Any ideas?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Probably a shorted bridge rectifier (BR4). This is not an uncommon failure on a machine this old.

It could (less likely) be shorted flasher socket.

To send this board out for repair, I'd recommend:
https://www.coinopcauldron.com/

#23 2 years ago

how would I know if there is a shorted flasher socket? Do you mean a lamp flasher? I'd like to check those first before I pull the board out. I think that all the lights that are supposed to flash are doing it. There are a bunch of 906 bulbs in the topper that are not doing anything. I can't remember if these are flashers or not. Everything else seems to light up ok.

Here's a photo of the top. you can see all the 906 bulbs not lit or flashing

IMG_2622 (resized).jpgIMG_2622 (resized).jpg
#24 2 years ago
Quoted from ltngbolt:

how would I know if there is a shorted flasher socket? Do you mean a lamp flasher? I'd like to check those first before I pull the board out. I think that all the lights that are supposed to flash are doing it. There are a bunch of 906 bulbs in the topper that are not doing anything. I can't remember if these are flashers or not. Everything else seems to light up ok.
Here's a photo of the top. you can see all the 906 bulbs not lit or flashing
[quoted image]

906 are flashers, but you probably have some 89s under the PF that are flashers too. Monster fish is a flasher (906 or 89), for sure, but I don't remember the others. They have a separate test in the diagnostics from the GI and feature lights.

Unplug the flasher connectors from the power driver board (should be J102, J106, J107 if I remember right), replace the fuse and see if it still blows again.

#25 2 years ago

I unplugged all those and the fuse is still good. I plugged in J106, then J107 and fuse is still good. Next I did J103 next to the fuse block and still good. J102 is the only one left. It says secondary on the board next to the fuse block. I plug it in and the fuse blew.

How do I know what J102 controls and what to do about it?

#26 2 years ago

I don't see on the chart like you posted in the manual showing the connections for J-102

#27 2 years ago

The wires on J102 are 2 red/white and 2 black/yellow wires

#28 2 years ago
Quoted from ltngbolt:

I don't see on the chart like you posted in the manual showing the connections for J-102

J102... that's the power origin that goes to BR4. So as soon as you add the power, BR4 blows F111.

Sounds like bad BR4 to me.

#29 2 years ago

This is all I could find, but it doesn't mean much to me. How about you?

Screen Shot 2021-08-29 at 9.31.31 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2021-08-29 at 9.31.31 PM (resized).png
#30 2 years ago

And BR4 is what?

#31 2 years ago
Quoted from ltngbolt:

This is all I could find, but it doesn't mean much to me. How about you?
[quoted image]

It's the power connection which goes through the fuse, then to BR4. So if plugging power in causes F111 to blow, it's because BR4 is shorted and drawing too much power. The fuse kills itself to save your board.

Call coin op cauldron. He can confirm, but I believe your BR4 is bad, at the very least.

#32 2 years ago

Bridge rectifier correct?

#33 2 years ago
Quoted from ltngbolt:

I unplugged all those and the fuse is still good. I plugged in J106, then J107 and fuse is still good. Next I did J103 next to the fuse block and still good. J102 is the only one left. It says secondary on the board next to the fuse block. I plug it in and the fuse blew.
How do I know what J102 controls and what to do about it?

Quoted from PinMonk:

J102... that's the power origin that goes to BR4. So as soon as you add the power, BR4 blows F111.
Sounds like bad BR4 to me.

I think the logic for differential diagnosis should be:

  1. Disconnect J106, J107 and anything connected to J122 through J126. J102 should be connected.
  2. Power on. If you get a fuse blow then it is BR4 as you have isolated the DC output from consumption.
  3. Power off. Reconnect J106 and J107.
  4. Power on. You should not get a fuse blow. If you do then you have a power wire connected to ground somewhere.
  5. Power off. Reconnect J125 and J126 if they exist.
  6. Power on. If you get a fuse blow then it is one (or more) of solenoid drives 17-24.
  7. Power off. Reconnect J122, J123 and J124 if they exist.
  8. Power on. If you get a fuse blow then it is one (or more) of solenoid drives 25-28.

Odds are it is BR4 but the conclusion from the diagnostic process is not valid.

If you connect J102 last with all the other connectors in place you have proven nothing. The fuse cannot blow if there is no output from the transformer secondary connected as input to the power board.

#34 2 years ago

It would be time to remove the driver board and diode test BR4.

#35 2 years ago

Thanks guys for all you help. I'll try these things tomorrow. I've gotta get some more fuses for this~

#36 2 years ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

I think the logic for differential diagnosis should be:
Odds are it is BR4 but the conclusion from the diagnostic process is not valid.
If you connect J102 last with all the other connectors in place you have proven nothing. The fuse cannot blow if there is no output from the transformer secondary connected as input to the power board.

I originally had this Fish Tales table showing which connectors control the flashers to disconnect, but your step by step is more comprehensive.
fishtales-flashers (resized).jpgfishtales-flashers (resized).jpg

#37 2 years ago

I did a confirmation on 2 different WPC games. Just removed J111 on the driver board and it only affected the flashers. So you do in fact have 2 different issues in your game.

#38 2 years ago

Make sure j102 and j106, j107, j108 are disconnected. With your meter set to diode test (an arrow with a line a the end) you can test BR4 without even pulling out the board. With the meter on diode , you need to measure the 4 diodes that make up the bridge rectifier (which converts AC from the transformer to DC for the lamps and electronics). To test a diode , you simply place the red probe on the side without a band or line of the diode , and the black probe on the banded side. All 4 diodes have available connections elsewhere which we can use to test BR4. On the image I uploaded , every color pair is where the probes should be , the color with a black dot represents the black probe.

RED PAIR : Red probe on GROUND or Pin 1 of J115 / Black probe on pin 1 or 2 of J102.
BLUE PAIR : Red probe on GROUND or Pin 1 of J115 / Black probe on left side of fuse F111 connector (Not the side closest to the connector, or any side if you have a working fuse installed)
GREEN PAIR : Red probe on pin 1 or 2 of J102 / Black probe on TP7
YELLOW PAIR : Red probe on on left side of fuse F111 connector (Not the side closest to the connector, or any side if you have a working fuse installed) / Black probe on TP7

These 4 combinations will test all 4 diodes inside the bridge. You expect to read 0.7V DC (or close by). If you measure 0V and it beeps , it means this particular diode is shorted. If you measure 1. (infinity) it means the diode is broken open (that usually doesn't blow fuses but also almost never happens).

You reading 0 Volts on TP7 and then 51 Volts seem to indicate that the bridge is indeed shorted. The diode test will confirm that.

20210830_084636.jpg20210830_084636.jpg

EDIT : Replacing C11 along with BR4 is probably a good idea. It is quite old by now , and should be rated at 25v (According to the manual and I'm too lazy to check on my own board). If indeed 51V was fed to it for some time , it might have suffered. (15 000 uf , 25v, +/- 20%

EDIT 2 : This voltage at TP7 is what drives the flashers.

#39 2 years ago

Hey Roamin, do I want to pull the connector off of j115 or just probe pin 1 on top of the connector?
Also, I have no connector on j108. Is there supposed to be one?
Thanks

#40 2 years ago

Stupid question maybe? Do I want to turn power on before testing?

#41 2 years ago
Quoted from ltngbolt:

Stupid question maybe? Do I want to turn power on before testing?

Yes, you do these tests with the power off. (Pulling J102 from the board will cut power to the board anyways).

You want to pull out all the connectors I mentionned (if there are any). I listed them all because they all appear on the schematic but it doesn't mean they are present on fish tales. You want your probe on PIN 1 of the connector , with the connector removed, so directly on the pin. We are removing the connectors to make sure that you are measuring just the rectifying bridge and not what is connected before (POWER INPUT) and after (Flashers). If you leave the connectors plugged then we would get false readings.

So power off , connectors off , probe directly to the pin on the board.

EDIT : For J115 pin 1 , you can leave it connected as we are only using the ground connection. So it doesn't matter if J115 is connected or not.

EDIT 2: If there is anything connected to J104 or J105, unplug them as well.

#42 2 years ago

I checked the wires as mentioned
All came up with readings around .460-.465
EXCEPT
GREEN PAIR : Red probe on pin 1 or 2 of J102 / Black probe on TP7
-This had a reading of .000

So, I guess it's time to send in the board. I've never done any board soldering, so I would rather not test my skills on this!

Does this effect the DMD not displaying anything or is that a separate issue?

Again, Thanks for your help
Dan

#43 2 years ago

What type of DMD do you have ? Color or the old orange plasma DMD ? F111 should not affect the DMD. F116 would be the fuse for the DMD but your TP1 seemed good at 15v and 5v at TP2.

#44 2 years ago

The original orange. Display showed stuff on the right side until it just went out totally. This was the first sign before the game went dark and wouldn’t boot. I got new cables coming but if that doesn’t do anything, could it be the board? If so, I’ll send it in with other one and get both fixed at the same time

#45 2 years ago

You will want to get NVRAM installed on the CPU board as well. I hope the new ribbon cables bring the DMD back to life.

#46 2 years ago

Anyone local to you that can solder and replace this bridge rectifier for you? You will want to get C2 replaced on the driver board as well since it like to leak. If so, hopefully the person can also do NVRAM for you.

#47 2 years ago

Hey Maniac,

Thanks, I'll do that
I saw from another post about checking voltages on J604 for the DMD
I did and most seemed within range except the brown wire pin 8 was like 4.35 volts

Do you happen to know what would cause that low of a reading cause it's supposed to be 62V?

#48 2 years ago

Also what do -112v and -100v measure? Those and the 62V are all important for the original plasma DMD to work.

All 3 voltages are generated on the DMD controller board.

If any of the voltages are bad, you can just install a ColorDMD and not worry about repairing that board.

#50 2 years ago

I measured at both J604 and on the connector on the DMD and voltages were about the same

Orange (-125V) mine 118.7
Blue (-113V) mine 100.3
Gray (+5V) mine 4.95
Gray/Yell (+12V) mine 12.25
Brown (+62V) mine 4.33

The values in Parentheses are what a chart in another post said they are supposed to be

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