Yes.

https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

You should re-seat all of the connectors as well.

If the game is plugged into an extension cord, get rid of it. Might want to check the wall voltage too. Pretty rare to have both 5V and 12V issues at the same time. Could be a supply issue.

Definitely check 5 and 12 v on the mpu. Likely need to rebuild the PS section on the driver board.

I had a Jy doing this recently. tap on cpu. was dirty socket in ASIC.

The wiki is a great resource and quickly showed me where my current TZ reset problem lies. You do need a multimeter and a clip lead to check BR2 and C5.

If you want to roll the dice and jump to one item that is super easy to check and a common problem spot... Reseat J101 and see if you notice any improvement.

Oh, I guess it is worth asking... do the resets happen when you are flipping? If so that's a good sign that it's a failing 5V rail. If the game will reboot when you aren't flipping then things get more interesting.

BTW I have a WH2O that has a reset problem and like you, I put in a Kahr board before I did any diagnosing. Can't hurt, right? Well in my case, the game would not even boot with the board in. Kahr support said that suggested that the 12V supply is weak too. Well... one thing at a time, TZ first.

Let us know what you find!

If the power supply isn't right NOTHING ELSE can work properly - it really is that simple.

Make 100% sure that your power rails are rock solid - in many cases your other problems will disappear.

I would run in self test and let each coil pulse for a few times. You can stop on each coil in test and set it to repeat. It could be a coil(s) have worn wrapper and are shorting against bracket when energized. Seen this before.

1st: unplug the power to the dmd. See if it resets.
2nd: if it does reset, check your bridge 1 rectifier.

You need 5 volts at all times give or take for the pin to run. Good Luck!

This sure sounds familiar....

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/taf-resets-in-attract-mode

**SPOILER ALERT** - was the MPU (95% sure).

Absolutely. Need to test voltages before even starting.

I kind like of mentioned that the power to the dmd could be the issue. I draws alot of voltage. Glad u got it working.

No soldering iron or crimper needed, that's a happy ending!

I'm not impressed with the Kahr 5v regulator boards. I used one on my White Water once and the issue got worse, it started resetting constantly in a loop and wouldn't even boot up properly. Removed the Kahr board and the game was back to being playable and just resetting at certain times. The fix was to follow the proper troubleshooting measures and repair the 5v supply chain.

I get the sense, now that others are having the same issue, that these kahr boards are underspecced for a few WPC games.