(Topic ID: 253968)

Fish Tales Reel Issue

By schwism

4 years ago


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  • 16 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by PinMonk
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 4 years ago

I bought a Fish Tales about a week ago. At first the reel functioned fine but after a few days I ran into issues where the reel would not advance. I ran diagnostics-solenoid test worked as did the reel test. A day or so later reel would not move at all and the tests failed.

I’m still a rookie with SS games but was able to check the EMI board shown in the picture while reel test was running. VM shows zero on the output (left) side but appears to show 15v on the input (right) side.

Is there any way to test the EMI board? Is the board toast?

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#2 4 years ago

You sure it’s not the belt? That’s the more common failure.

#3 4 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

You sure it’s not the belt? That’s the more common failure.

Doesn't account for the zero voltage output, but yeah, the belt is the most common point of failure.

You can EASILY test that transistor if you have a multimeter that measures ohms/resistance. Do you?

There's also some success reported in the past by pressing on the ASIC chip on the CPU board and reseating it and/or pressing on the game ROM chips to reseat them.

#4 4 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

You sure it’s not the belt? That’s the more common failure.

I do see how this could be the case, since I had a reel that would sometimes eject more than one ball that was fixed with a new belt. Do you hear the motor underneath trying to spin at all?

#5 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Doesn't account for the zero voltage output, but yeah, the belt is the most common point of failure.
You can EASILY test that transistor if you have a multimeter that measures resistance in ohms. Do you?
There's also some success reported in the past by pressing on the ASIC chip on the CPU board and reseating it and/or pressing on the game ROM chips to reseat them.

Belt is in great shape and is the correct kind.

Yes, I have a DMM and will check the transistor soon.

I’ll check the CPU chips but I’d think that would be less likely to be the issue since I am getting power to the EMI.

#6 4 years ago
Quoted from KDPinball:

I do see how this could be the case, since I had a reel that would sometimes eject more than one ball that was fixed with a new belt. Do you hear the motor underneath trying to spin at all?

No, the motor isn’t doing anything. Voltage at the connection is zero. Unfortunately I do not have a 12v power source handy.

#7 4 years ago

Found this turns out that the board would heat up and quit working. Replaces the board and all was well. Just to pass along.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bunch-of-odd-wcs94-issues/page/2

#8 4 years ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

Found this turns out that the board would heat up and quit working. Replaces the board and all was well. Just to pass along.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bunch-of-odd-wcs94-issues/page/2

Thanks for the link. It does seem similar to my issue.

Going to try a 9v battery to see if it will drive the reel motor. In any event I need to get two of the balls out.

Question for vireland. Can I test the transistor with it on the board and the machine off?

General question. With the machine off should there be continuity between the two sets of pins? Haven’t tried but was wondering about that.

I’m inclined to buy a new board but I am not seeing it available except from Australia. Would probably do that and a transistor and see what happens if all else fails.

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from schwism:

I need to get two of the balls out.

Sounds like a personal issue.

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from schwism:

Question for vireland. Can I test the transistor with it on the board and the machine off?

You can test a transistor in the machine. I don't know what the transistor is on that board, but it's probably a TIP102.

That board is so simple, I can't imagine what would cause overheating except a bad diode (did you test that one) or the transistor. Seems like replacing it would be a waste of money.

That said, IF the problem is heat related (transistor intermittent failure), you might have to play it until it starts failing to test the transistor.

#11 4 years ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

Sounds like a personal issue.

There’s one in every crowd.

#12 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

You can test a transistor in the machine. I don't know what the transistor is on that board, but it's probably a TIP102.

Yes it is. I’ll have some time to test later today.

That board is so simple, I can't imagine what would cause overheating except a bad diode (did you test that one) or the transistor. Seems like replacing it would be a waste of money.

Did not test diode. I’m new - what’s the process? Yes, I’d rather avoid the time, effort and money on a replacement until I’m certain that’s where the problem lies.

That said, IF the problem is heat related (transistor intermittent failure), you might have to play it until it starts failing to test the transistor.

The issue occurs when the machine has just been turned on and should be cold.

#13 4 years ago

Sorry about inserting the responses in the quotes in post 12!

#14 4 years ago

Update-transistor seems to check out fine. I verified that pins are making contact with the plug so power does get to the board. Next step is to test the diode.

Decided to order replacements for entire board and the components. Hopefully a new board does the trick and I can experiment on the old board in hopes of getting it going again.

#15 4 years ago

Problem solved. Turned out the connector at the bottom was not soldered well and would move in the hole. A dab of solder took care of it.

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#16 4 years ago
Quoted from schwism:

Problem solved. Turned out the connector at the bottom was not soldered well and would move in the hole. A dab of solder took care of it.[quoted image]

Success!

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