(Topic ID: 275975)

Fish Tales motor voltage

By Diver12

3 years ago


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  • 43 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by RTS
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#6 3 years ago

Did you check that you have +12 VDC at the connectors on the yellow-marked circuit that Pin_Guy attached?

2 months later
#11 3 years ago

Actually there are two different 12V coming from the power-board.
On testpoint TP3 you have the digital 12V for the opto's and on TP1 (J118-connector) there is 12V for e g the motors (Normally around 15V.). Check TP3 first.

Edit, maybe I was reading the post too fast, if there is 12V at TP3, follow the yellow path in the picture above and see where you loose the 12V.

#15 3 years ago

J118-2 and J1-3 shall be connected, so if you don't have the same voltage on those it must be one or more bad connectors or a pinched wire between them.
If you first measure on the back on the cable connector on J118-2 when it's connected, and see if 12V is leaving J118-2, and after that disconnect J1-3 and see if 12V is coming in the cable connector.

#16 3 years ago

Actually it's probably J118 or the cable that is the problem, if you also have 1,2V at the opto-board.
I would have started with pressning in the cables in the IDC-connector J118, and if that doesn't help, crimp a new cable connector at J118. Have a look at the male header J118 on the board also, and maybe resolder this one, it might be some cracks.

#20 3 years ago

It's the unregulated 12V at TP1 that goes to J118-2. See the yellow-marked circuit in the picture below from the WPC schematic manual. 14,5V should be ok, but you need to find where you loose that voltage. Opto-switches will register if you have a bad 12V, and that is probably why coils are firing.

TP1 and TP3 (resized).pngTP1 and TP3 (resized).png
#22 3 years ago

arolden If you read RTS first post, you can see that he only have 1,2V at both the opto-board and the EMI-board, so I doubt that the problem is on the EMI board.

#24 3 years ago

If you're only having a copper wire or two making contact you will get this voltage drop.
When you have 14,5V at J118 it shouldn't be a power board issue.
Start with the J118-connectors as I wrote above.

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#26 3 years ago

If you look at page 3-32 in the manual, you can see that on J118 only pin 2 and 3 shall be connected. The loose cable shall probably be connected to J118-2, but to be sure check continuity between the loose cable and the cable connector at J1-3 on the EMI-board.

Edit: What you see on your attached photo of the schematic, is the board, not the cables.

#29 3 years ago

No opto-switches work:
1. Check both regulated and unregulated +12 VDC on LED1 / TP3 / F115 (regulated) and LED7 / TP1 / F116 (unregulated).
2. Check LED on the opto board under the playfield. LED should be lit if the board has +12 VDC.
3. On the opto board, measure voltage on J1 pin 2, should be +12 VDC.
(Pin 1 is ground.) See the schematics in the manual page 3-23.
4. Check voltage coming out from the opto board. Shall be + 12VDC on pin 4 on J5, J6 and J7. Ground is on pin 1 & 2.
5. Pull up the connectors slightly and check continuity between the male headers and the cable connectors.
6. Check the back the back of the board for cracked solder joints. Resolder if necessary.
7. Measure the diodes on the board.
8. Measure the resistors. See values in the manual page 3-23.
9. Check continuity on all circuits on the board.
10. Replace the LM339. Cannot be tested.

#31 3 years ago

F116 is located before the bridge rectifier and here it’s AC not DC. You need to measure between F116 and J112-1. V~ on the DMM. It should be 9.6 VAC.

How many optos is it actually in Fish Tales, and are all of them not functioning?

When diodes are placed directly on coils it's not possible to measure them without removing one leg, otherwise you will measure through the winding of the coil.
But if the diode is placed on the power board, and you disconnect the cables to the coils, it's possible to measure the diode without removing one leg.
You can also test a diode on a micro switch, if you disconnect the ground cable and activate the switch while you're testning.
In this case I don't think you need to disconnect the cables to be able to measure the diodes, but it's easier to work with the opto board if you remove it from the playfield.

How to test a diode.
1. Turn the game off.
2. Put the multimeter in diode-test mode. (Triangle pointing at a line.)
3. Measure over diode. You should have 0.4 to 0.7 V in one direction, and OL (open loop/no reading/no signal) in the other direction.
Any other readings change the diode.

Below you have a link on how to test a resistor in circuit:
https://sciencing.com/test-resistors-circuit-5989061.html

#33 3 years ago

Yes, it's a diode on the catapult micro switch.

There are different AC-voltages coming up from the transformator, so there are different voltages on the different fuses.
If you have 12 VDC regulated and 14,5 VDC unregulated I don't think the power board is the issue.

Check that you have 12 VDC out at the opto's.

#35 3 years ago

You can check if the opto's are working. In attract mode or switch test, you could see, through the LCD-display on a digital camera or sometimes the video-mode on the smart phone, a blue color on the transmitting diode.
On the opto receivers you should get 1 VDC or less over the legs of the diode when the diode is seing light from the transmitter. If you block the light, you should get 12-13 VDC.

2 weeks later
#38 3 years ago

LM339N is the correct chip.
It was the voltage at the opto diode legs of the receiver I meant in my last post, not the voltage at the board.

It might be that both opto diodes are broken, but it can also be something else.
It might be a break in the ground circuit. Did you check continuity between J118-3 on the power board and J1-1 on the Opto Board.
You can also check continuity between the opto board and the CPU board.
J1-5 to J209-9
J1-6 to J209-8
J1-7 to J207-3

If you're changing the opto diodes, start with a transmitter, it's normally those that breaks.

1 week later
#41 3 years ago


Varsågod!
Great to hear that everything works now.

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