(Topic ID: 297331)

Fish tales flippers dead

By Scott8806

3 years ago


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#1 3 years ago

I'm hoping someone has been thru this I changed my display to color dmd and flipper fidelity speakers when I powered the game up I had no power to the dmd turns out was a fuse put the geme back on when to play both flippers are dead put it in test mode they work on switch its not seeing them at all

But on solenoid test they fire they won't hold but the will fire I have traced every line to see if I pinched one repeated all conecctors and the game plays fine other than this one issue

#2 3 years ago

Check the easy stuff first:
You did mods and the flippers stopped working so start by checking:

-All connectors get reconnected? No unplugged connecters hidden tucked behind a board or fallen down?
-Check all connectors you touched and make sure they are plugged in correctly, not offset 1 pin.
-All fuses OK?

-In test "T.1" switch test mode, do you see the left and right flipper buttons activate when pressed?
-In test "T.12" flipper test mode you can select R.flipper power and R.flipper hold, etc. Do the flippers move in each of those 4 tests or what happens?

Post back with test and result. You original post was a little hard to follow.

#3 3 years ago

They don't show up in any test except solenoid test I'm almost positive the flipper board in the left top corner is not sending power to the flippers and the board is ice cold how can o test that board to see of its sending power out

#4 3 years ago

If they work in test mode but not during play they have power. Did you plug everything back correctly? Or accidently pull a connector or wire from one? I've installed alot of colordmd displays and never had it effect the flippers. (edited, I missed that they worked in the test)

#5 3 years ago

I checked each fuse with the meter continuity test each one chirped and I never unplugged nothing I still think that board is either out or something wrong with it

#6 3 years ago

If the flipper work in solenoid test they are getting power and “working”. You are having a switch problem it sounds like. When your working with the colordmd your right by the switch connectors on the mpu. Bottom left corner of the backbox. Take a look there and see if when you were doing the Z connector you didn’t pull either the connector or a wire out of the connector on the mpu

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

They don't show up in any test except solenoid test

Your posts are still unclear. Your saying the flippers work in that mode?

Do they or don't the buttons show being pressed in the switch test mode?

#8 3 years ago

No they show nothing in switch test just Solonoid

#9 3 years ago
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#10 3 years ago

That bottom pic is the fuse that blew when I was hooking up color dmd is was getting no power I have repeated and checked every thing I can thing of so far

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#11 3 years ago

Both flipper optos and the color DMD use 12 volt unregulated, so that's why your flippers only work in test mode. F116 should be a 3 amp slow blow. The color DMD draws about 600 ma, so it is a significant load, but unless you have other 12v based mods, it should be ok. I would re-check the wiring from J117, J116, and J118. You could unplug all, then plug one in at a time until the fuse blows. Then you can tell which line has the problem. Note that J116, J117, and J118 are all interchangeable. They all deliver 5 and 12 volts to various things that use it, like optos, motors, remote boards.

#12 3 years ago

No mods and once I changed the fuse it never blew again I even unplugged the dmd to see if they would come back on but nothing

#13 3 years ago

Unplugged each one nothing blew how can I check that flipper board

#14 3 years ago
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#15 3 years ago

Good, the 12v is stable. It sounds like the power to the flipper buttons is still out. Sometimes the wires break right where they go into the IDC connectors. You're looking at the gray / yellow and black pair. You could also pull on the harnesses to see which one goes to the cabinet and just follow it, looking for breaks. If you have a meter and can measure 12vdc, it gets a lot easier.

The signal path is: 12v(unregulated) feeds the flipper opto led, which when button pressed allows the beam to pass, which excites the other half of the opto assembly to close a dedicated switch input going into the fliptronic board. The dedicated switches run on a different supply (regulated 12v) from the opto supply. Since the flipper OES switches are also dedicated inputs, if you push the flipper bats up by hand while in switch test, it will register even if the unregulated 12v is missing.

Note that if the left-hand flipper opto is disconnected, then neither flipper will work. This is because the 12v is connected through the opto board, so it forms a chain. Goofy design, I know. But it's something to check.

Is it possible that you disconnected one at J118 and forgot to connect it back up? The color dmd has an aux connector on it to replace the space it takes up.

#16 3 years ago

I'm getting 12 volts at the button

#17 3 years ago

Just noticed these lights are not on

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#18 3 years ago

99% sure your problem is one of these connections. I'm going to give the other 1% to the ribbon cable between the CPU and fliptronics board; data along this cable is how the CPU knows if you pressed the flipper button, there are no other connections involved.
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According to your manual,
J 116, J117, and J118 are all used in your game. I see your ColorDMD connection plugged into J116, my question is what happened to the connector you removed from that header?
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#19 3 years ago

It has to be the little ribbon cable then I did unhook it to remove some wire for the flipper fidelity install I'm getting 12 volts at the button and the bord thru those connections

#20 3 years ago
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#21 3 years ago

I'm getting 12 volts at the buttons

#22 3 years ago

Not that ribbon cable, that ones for your solenoid and flasher control, Im concerned about that wire that looks like its pinched under it though.

This is the one I'm talking about:

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#23 3 years ago

I fixed that wire it was fine going to check that cable now try flipping it the other way I'm missing these lights on the main board don't know why

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#24 3 years ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

I'm missing these lights on the main board don't know why

LED3 is supposed to be off, just ignore it.

#25 3 years ago

Just did both ribbons reset them the same what about tp2 and tp3

#26 3 years ago

Only thing weird it's doing besides flippers not working each time I close the door the slam tilit is going off

#27 3 years ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

Only thing weird it's doing besides flippers not working each time I close the door the slam tilit is going off

There is a slam tilt switch on the coin door...its probably too sensitive

#28 3 years ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

ust did both ribbons reset them the same what about tp2 and tp3

TP2 and TP3 are test points for measuring your +5V and +12V regulated. You can check them but I suspect if those weren't correct you would have more serious problems

#29 3 years ago

I checked then they are good I'm at a lost all these started with a color dmd upgrade flipper fidelity too done a 100 tines

#30 3 years ago

Please reverify you have 12V on the flipper board by checking between the 12V and GND points at the connection point, this voltage cannot be measured to the ground braid.

If this tests good, you will need to do a little more involved testing...do not perform these procedures if you are not comfortable doing so.

With the power off, remove J905 from the fliptronics board.

Turn on the game and put it into switch edge test and leave the coin door open.

On your fliptroics board, use test clips or a wire jumper to connect J905 pin 1 (on the right) to each of the other pins on J905 one at a time (see diagram below for pin locations); each time you make a connection between pin 1 and the other pins on this connector, one of the flipper switches should register a closure. If these switches do not register, you issue is on the Fliptronics board, the ribbon cable, or the CPU board. If these work as expected, your issue is between this point and the flipper switches. The only commonality to all 4 flippers is the orange wire connected to J905-1 and the 12V wire connected to the power driver board.
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#31 3 years ago

Please take a picture of your left flipper assembly inside the cabinet, I just want to make sure I'm not missing something here.

#32 3 years ago

I just loaded up have an engineer that fixes pins on the side going to him first in the morning Thanks for all the help a d I will definitely post back on here what it winds up being usually I can figure. It out I know it'd something I did but I do it to every pin I get we will see

#33 3 years ago

I've had this issue before, it turned out to be the connections at the flipper opto boards. Someone mentionned earlier that both flippers will stop working if one of the connectors is unplugged, because the 12v is chained from one board to the other. Reflowing the pins of the connector on both flipper opto boards fixed the issue on my end. It worked fine for weeks, and one day just stopped. I didn't know then the boards were daisy chained.

9 months later
#34 2 years ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

I will definitely post back on here what it winds up being

What is you final repair to get it going? I hate seeing unresolved threads.

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