(Topic ID: 271340)

Fish Tales dont boot up

By MrCleanHead

3 years ago


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    #1 3 years ago

    Picked this up a few weeks ago and finally getting around to it (Fish Tales). So It will not boot up. D19 (LED) and D21 (LED) stay lit and and D20 is off (LED) on the CPU Board. You can also hear it the familiar WMS cycling but just repeats. I checked all the plugs and fuses prior to turning it on and they all check fine. I unplugged everything but J210 and still the same result. I then reset/re-seated U9, U6 and U4, with no change. So before I do the shotgun approach and replace U1, U2 (74LS244), U3 (74LS245), U5 (74LS14) I was just curious what else I should check or what else it could be.

    Thanks in advance!
    Rob

    #2 3 years ago

    “Doesn’t”

    #3 3 years ago

    If D20 on the CPU-board doesn't blink continuously, the codes at start-up mean:
    One blink: U6 / G11 CPU game ROM is broken.
    Two blinks: U8 CMOS RAM chip is broken.
    Three blinks: U9 (ASIC) WPC custom chip is broken (pre WPC-S), or U22 / G10 Security PIC chip is broken (WPC-S and later).

    If the D20 does not start blinking continuously (the game boots), check +5 VDC (LED4 / TP2).

    Other chip that might be a problem if it doesn't boot: U4 (68B09) microprocessor-chip

    A re-seat of all the socketed chips on the CPU-board can also solve the problem. Use a special tool for the ASIC.

    Re-seat all the ribbon cables in the backbox.

    #4 3 years ago
    Quoted from MrCleanHead:

    . I unplugged everything but J210 and still the same result

    I hope that means you also disconnected the ribbon cables?

    #5 3 years ago
    Quoted from Classe:

    If D20 on the CPU-board doesn't blink continuously, the codes at start-up mean:

    If the D20 does not start blinking continuously (the game boots), check +5 VDC (LED4 / TP2).

    Other chip that might be a problem if it doesn't boot: U4 (68B09) microprocessor-chip
    A reseat of all the socketed chips on the CPU-board can also solve the problem. Use a special tool for the ASIC.

    D20 does not blink.(D19 and D21 stay on)
    I have 4.84VDC at the test point and at the header of the board.
    I reseated all socketed chips, including the ASIC (I have the tool).

    Quoted from PinballManiac40:

    I hope that means you also disconnected the ribbon cables?

    Yep, only the J210 is plugged in.

    Im tempted to install the NVRAM I have to see if that makes a difference. I have seen some reports that the U8 chip can cause this as well.

    #6 3 years ago
    Quoted from Classe:

    If D20 on the CPU-board doesn't blink continuously, the codes at start-up mean:
    Other chip that might be a problem if it doesn't boot: U4 (68B09) microprocessor-chip

    I switched this chip out as well with another game, same results

    #7 3 years ago

    +4,84 VDC at TP2 is too low.

    Re-seat the following connectors: J101, J102, J112, J114, J116, J117, J118 and J210.
    If that doesn't help, press in the cables in the IDC-connectors above.

    If pressing in the cables doesn't help, then change BR2 and C5.

    #8 3 years ago

    Well I took the plunge and replaced the RAM, powered right up. Sometimes I get lucky. Hopefully anything else that may be wrong with this game is just normal stuff. Thanks again all for help!

    Old game Pinball expo 1992

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    #9 3 years ago
    Quoted from Classe:

    +4,84 VDC at TP2 is too low.
    Re-seat the following connectors: J101, J102, J112, J114, J116, J117, J118 and J210.
    If that doesn't help, press in the cables in the IDC-connectors above.
    If pressing in the cables doesn't help, then change BR2 and C5.

    Yep, Im sure that will need to be done. I did think it was a little low but not low enough since I happen to have another board to test with and it booted right up.

    #10 3 years ago
    Quoted from MrCleanHead:

    Well I took the plunge and replaced the RAM, powered right up. Sometimes I get lucky. Hopefully anything else that may be wrong with this game is just normal stuff. Thanks again all for help!
    Old game Pinball expo 1992
    [quoted image]

    Sorry, I was busy mowing my mom's yard all day and not been able to check in

    Can't say I ever tried my luck like that with a non-booting board.

    Glad to see you got it working. Treat yourself to a LCD ColorDMD.

    playball!!

    #11 3 years ago
    Quoted from PinballManiac40:

    Sorry, I was busy mowing my mom's yard all day and not been able to check in
    Can't say I ever tried my luck like that with a non-booting board.
    Glad to see you got it working. Treat yourself to a LCD ColorDMD.
    playball!!

    I will once the DMD craps out, I have many games that I can put them in but now I cant swing it, especially at the current price for each...and I have a few originals (NOS) laying around here somewhere, eventually.

    BUT, now Im getting the check fuse F114 and F115 error. (fuses check good) I just replaced the BR1 & BR2 and the Caps next to them C11 and C5. I got 4.85V and 11.88V, hardly any change. The game took a long time to boot up as well and still got the check fuse message. I can clear the message but that switch matrix is out (cant start game, left side playfield switchs are inop, etc).

    Sigh.....

    #12 3 years ago
    Quoted from MrCleanHead:

    I will once the DMD craps out, I have many games that I can put them in but now I cant swing it, especially at the current price for each...and I have a few originals (NOS) laying around here somewhere, eventually.
    BUT, now Im getting the check fuse F114 and F115 error. (fuses check good) I just replaced the BR1 & BR2 and the Caps next to them C11 and C5. I got 4.85V and 11.88V, hardly any change. The game took a long time to boot up as well and still got the check fuse message. I can clear the message but that switch matrix is out (cant start game, left side playfield switchs are inop, etc).
    Sigh.....

    Probably a blown 2803 chip if the switch matrix is not working correctly. Was there acid damage on the cpu? If so check the connectors and look for corrosion.

    #13 3 years ago
    Quoted from tonyhoff1:

    Probably a blown 2803 chip

    I am thinking the same thing. With power off, you can test the resistance of U20 pin 9 to 10. Normally this is about 1 Meg ohms. Usually, I see this under 200 ohms when this message appears and the fuses are not blown. When it is 10 ohms, normally it blows out F115 , I believe.

    #14 3 years ago
    Quoted from tonyhoff1:

    Probably a blown 2803 chip if the switch matrix is not working correctly. Was there acid damage on the cpu? If so check the connectors and look for corrosion.

    There is minor battery corrosion in this area, I did clean it up and check the traces in the area as well and it seems good.

    Quoted from PinballManiac40:

    I am thinking the same thing. With power off, you can test the resistance of U20 pin 9 to 10. Normally this is about 1 Meg ohms. Usually, I see this under 200 ohms when this message appears and the fuses are not blown. When it is 10 ohms, normally it blows out F115 , I believe.

    Im probably not doing this correctly, but I have my meter set to 2000 ohms and with the power off, I check across pin 9 and 10 (the last two opposite pins on the other end of the notch in the IC) and I get a reading of 1650.

    When I turned on the game today, still a very long boot up (30 seconds easy) but I didnt get the error message but the problem still exists. So Im thinking the U20 chip as well. Error message came back after power cycling while checking stuff

    I still have power issues (I think). I have one of those WPC reset fix boards with the led's on them. So for the hell of it I plugged this in (J210) just to see what it did. The LED's are all on, here is what the led's indicate: Blue, Red, + Green Flashing = 5V went both high and low PLUS 12V went below 9V.

    Here are my readings:

    TP1 = 14.60
    TP2 = 4.87
    TP3 = 11.88
    TP4 = 0.3?
    TP5 = Ground
    TP6 = 70.2
    TP7 = 21.4
    TP8 = 15.8

    All Led's on the board are on and led 3 is blinking/flashing.

    #15 3 years ago

    Normal measurements on the testpoints:

    TP1: 15 VDC
    TP2: 5 VDC
    TP3: 12 VDC
    TP6: 75 VDC
    TP7: 22 VDC
    TP8: 18 VDC

    All your readings are a little bit low, but the +18 VDC is the one that definately differs too much.

    If the 18 Volt is not correct, it is probably bridge rectifier BR1 / capacitors C6 and C7 that needs to be replaced.

    The regulated +12 VDC will also be affected from a low +18 VDC (TP8), when this is converted to +12 VDC with a voltage regulator LM7812 (Q2).

    #16 3 years ago

    Can you unplug J210 and measure TP8 again? This should help narrow down if the voltage problem is on the driver board or is being loaded down by the MPU.

    Please post a picture of the MPU board.

    U20 sounds bad from your measurement as it reads well less than 1 Meg ohm.

    #17 3 years ago
    Quoted from Classe:

    Normal measurements on the testpoints:

    If the 18 Volt is not correct, it is probably bridge rectifier BR1 / capacitors C6 and C7 that needs to be replaced.
    The regulated +12 VDC will also be affected from a low +18 VDC (TP8), when this is converted to +12 VDC with a voltage regulator LM7812 (Q2).

    BR1 was replaced but not C6 and C7, I only have one cap left at the moment.....C6 or C7?? I will order more and replace the other when I get them.

    Quoted from PinballManiac40:

    Can you unplug J210 and measure TP8 again? This should help narrow down if the voltage problem is on the driver board or is being loaded down by the MPU.
    Please post a picture of the MPU board.
    U20 sounds bad from your measurement as it reads well less than 1 Meg ohm.

    Voltage reads 17.1 with J210 unplugged.

    Here are the pics: Amazing what my iphone will pic up on the corrosion compared to my old eyes

    FTcpu--1 (resized).jpgFTcpu--1 (resized).jpgFTcpu--2 (resized).jpgFTcpu--2 (resized).jpgFTcpu--3 (resized).jpgFTcpu--3 (resized).jpg
    #18 3 years ago

    Well that board has suffered acid. And from the looks it’s bad enough. You have 2 options at this point. Replace the LM339’s and the ULN2803 chip. And make sure all the traces are ok. Or get a new cpu board!

    #19 3 years ago

    Both C6 and C7.
    Some battery corrosion there on the CPU board though unfortunately. Do you have a working CPU-board from another game to test with?

    #20 3 years ago
    Quoted from tonyhoff1:

    Well that board has suffered acid. And from the looks it’s bad enough. You have 2 options at this point. Replace the LM339’s and the ULN2803 chip. And make sure all the traces are ok. Or get a new cpu board!

    The traces that I can check right now all check good. I will probably take a shot at replacing the effected parts before I get a new board. I get more satisfaction getting things to work

    Quoted from Classe:

    Both C6 and C7.

    I found another Cap and just replaced them both and followed the same steps as before but this time it seems to have worse results. TP8 bounces a little up to 15.7V but steady at 14.6V and with J210 unplugged its around 16.5V

    Quoted from Classe:

    Some battery corrosion there on the CPU board though unfortunately. Do you have a working CPU-board from another game to test with?

    I do, I have a few Addams Family CPU boards, the resistor rows look a little different in some spots so I didnt swap out all chips as a replacement. I just used one of them to see if it boots with just J210 plugged in and it did.

    #21 3 years ago

    If it works with another CPU-board, then the problem is on the CPU-board.
    Start with fixing that board, and wait with the power-board. It might be fine.

    #22 3 years ago

    I'll advise against replacing C6 and C7 unless the capacitors are noticeably puffed up. The smaller capacitors on the driver are far more of an issue for other reasons than C6 and C7.

    #23 3 years ago

    Quite a few areas would need to be attended to on the MPU board. The battery corrosion is something that requires replacement of the damaged parts. It is a long task of removing them, sanding the affected traces to bare copper and then treating the board with vinegar and finally installing all new parts.

    #24 3 years ago

    You can see lots of alkaline damage underneath the mask. You could spend a lot of time remediating the board and still have problems.
    Do you feel lucky?

    #25 3 years ago
    Quoted from Classe:

    If it works with another CPU-board, then the problem is on the CPU-board.
    Start with fixing that board, and wait with the power-board. It might be fine.

    Swapped out the ROM on my TAF extra board with the FT ROM and the game is working the way it should. So now I will order the LM339’s and the ULN2803 chips and sockets and go from there.

    Quoted from PinballManiac40:

    I'll advise against replacing C6 and C7 unless the capacitors are noticeably puffed up. The smaller capacitors on the driver are far more of an issue for other reasons than C6 and C7.

    Too Late

    Quoted from PinballManiac40:

    Quite a few areas would need to be attended to on the MPU board. The battery corrosion is something that requires replacement of the damaged parts. It is a long task of removing them, sanding the affected traces to bare copper and then treating the board with vinegar and finally installing all new parts.

    I really like this kind of work, its a learning process for me...I actually spend more time tinkering with these pins than playing them. But I do love playing them

    Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

    You can see lots of alkaline damage underneath the mask. You could spend a lot of time remediating the board and still have problems.
    Do you feel lucky?

    I do feel lucky. I have nothing to loose but a little time and a few bucks. If things dont work out then oh well. If they do then its just another benefit of a all ready rewarding hobby.

    Now to go over this pin and get a list together to shop it out and slide it into the line

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