(Topic ID: 274360)

Fish Tales DMD Controler Board Fuse F602 Blowing

By Evangelist

3 years ago



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  • 6 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Schwaggs
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 3 years ago

You don’t need a multimeter to confirm some of these components need changing....

IMG_20200727_191727 (2) (resized).jpgIMG_20200727_191727 (2) (resized).jpg

I changed the components highlighted (Q4, Q5, Q6, D4, D4 & R5) in yellow except BR2 as I have tested it and it seems fine.

IMG_0157 (resized).jpgIMG_0157 (resized).jpgIMG_0158 (resized).jpgIMG_0158 (resized).jpg

BR Test using Multimeter in Diode testing mode gets a reading of between 0.5v to 0.7v for :
==> -ve MM lead on either the AC legs & +ve MM lead on the -ve DC leg of Bridge Rectifier BR2
==> +ve MM lead on either the AC legs & -ve MM lead on the +ve DC leg of Bridge Rectifier BR2

IMG_20200802_143428 (resized).jpgIMG_20200802_143428 (resized).jpg

All looking good and thought I was on for a quick easy fix but put it back in the game with the DMD unplugged and fuse F602 blows straight away.

FYI I have tested it in another machine so it's definitely the DMD Controller Board.

==> Is it possible that the Bridge Rectifier (BR2) can test ok but at higher voltage cause issues??

==> Are there any other components which could cause F602 to blow which I have not yet replaced??

I think I will be replacing BR2 just in case.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions

1 week later
#5 3 years ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

C9 which is a .1 uf @ 500 volt ceramic disc capacitor.
C7 which is 150 uf @ 160 volt electrolytic. I use a 220 uf @ 160 volt as a replacement.
Definitely replace that bridge rectifier anyway. It's dirt cheap.

BR2 replaced and found C9 was shorted so replaced it... DMD working now like it did in 1994.

Thanks

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