Well i'm in the club now. I was sad to see my Sttng waltz out the door but the cash in pocket was a bonus. I just had to fill the gap in my pin collection and Fish Tales seemed a good choice (also didn't wipe out the cash intake). It's got the usual faded cab decals although the actual cab itself is in very good condition, just one small ding in the front left . There's some insert damage as far as lettering, etc and a little bit of wear but other than that all the plastics are good, ramp is good and solid wire forms. The fish has a broken tail (got one on order) and the machine had previously been fully LED and colour choices weren't too shabby. I've only got one LED out which is the red jackpot light below the lock lights, checked for a blown LED (nope) and swapped with working ones (still nope), tried changing holder / checking connection etc but still doesn't work. All the rest of the lights on that board work so wondering what it might be? (cracked track in the board maybe?)

DSC01733.jpg

DSC01734.jpg

DSC01735.jpg

DSC01736.jpg

DSC01737.jpg

DSC01738.jpg

DSC01739.jpg

Cheers mate, thanks, re-flowed the solder on all the pins (just to be sure, to be sure) and that sorted it

So i spent the afternoon doing a semi shop job on my machine and changed over all the old white rubbers to Titan green ones and added blue Titan rubbers to the 5 posts. I also had a couple of anodized gold flippers hanging around and put those on as well. I then spent an hour fiddling with the LEDS in the back box trying to find a nice balance between making it pop in the right areas and being subtle in others and i think i've got it about right over all. I then finished off indulging my love of all things Monty Python by adding an appropriately related custom message I'm pretty happy with the results. Does anyone know if you can get the drive belt in colours other than white? It would be nice to match it with the green rubbers, just looks out of place now.

DSC01751.jpg

DSC01752.jpg

DSC01742.jpg

DSC01744.jpg

It's white on my machine, know where i can get hold of a clear one?

Overall i don't think there is much noticeable difference between the Titan rubbers and regular rubber, certainly the flippers didn't seem much different, still the same in bounce and catch qualities etc. I do feel the slings may be a tad bouncier, just seemed to be a bit more deflection distance but i haven't put in enough games after the change to really quantify it just yet. I've got super band flipper rubbers on my other machines and i have definitely noticed a difference with those but i don't buy into some people's assessment of them though. I've seen reports of "major" playing differences, poor catch quality, lack of bounce, etc, etc and people saying it makes machines far easier to play. As Colonel Potter off the show M.A.S.H used to say "Buffalo Bagels"
A difference? Yes, a major change to the machine, No!!
The pics aren't fantastic but you'll get the idea, think i might add the rubber list choice to Titan's kit file as well.

DSC01754.jpg

DSC01755.jpg

DSC01756.jpg

DSC01758.jpg

DSC01757.jpg

I'm thinking about getting the shooter handle re-coated as mine is fairly worn. What's the original colour?, going off mine it looks too dark for chrome and too bright for straight black. Were they originally a black chrome?

So am i but after i was confirmed for the list Kevin told me he expected there to be left overs, keep hope

I've been adding a few extra's to my machine recently which include, 3 extra blue flashers in the back of the fish topper (sorry but the pic is a bit ordinary, will get the idea though), a new dome and fish (both of which were knackered), a new LED button on the shooter handle (i'm not sure if the one on my machine was original but i never liked the feel of it), a green LED start button and matching LED flipper buttons, the cool monster fish mod with purple LED's from theGiven, some flipper toppers, some blue LED pop bumper rings (much brighter than they look in the pic). I had added 3 green captive balls to my JD machine and had a 4th ball spare so put that into the boat ramp and also replaced a few of the plastics along the way as well. Got a new mini playfield on the way and on the list for a full size one when they are available. Last thing to get hold of (badly needed) is some new decals and then to put it all together to make some beautiful, banjo playing, yeeeehawing good times happen Loving this machine, think it's a keeper and my mates dig it too!!

DSC01933.jpg

DSC01935.jpg

DSC01939.jpg

DSC01940.jpg

DSC01941.jpg

DSC01943.jpg

DSC01944.jpg

Type this into Fleabay and it should show the same listing >>> 19mm 12V Green LED Stainless Switch Momentary Push Button waterproof
The only thing i needed to do was use another small square of black perspex to drill a larger hole into to mount the new button and of course wire it up to the 12v for the LED, easy enough to do. I did find that the center of the button is flush with the outside so i stuck on one of those door protectors just to give it a bit more height (also added a nice feel to it)

Wish i could find 1 spare bolt/combo's, mines only got 2 and they seem to be completely unobtainable(well 1 side is still available at marco's)

I'd be interested. When you say magnet though, do you mean a magnetic sheet/overlay? will that just be for the top of the apron? I've seen some decal type overlays that wrap over the front part of the apron.

Contact Kevin, there's a good chance you can still get one, i was advised that there will be leftovers. If you go to the CPR site it does show that

Little shop of games has both topper dome and seashell decal, probably better deal for you being in the states

The black one would look good too. Personally i chose the chrome because at some point down the track (hopefully soon) i'm going to get the whole shooter handle chromed. Also bare in mind you can use any colour surround piece that you can cut a hole in (Green, Red, Chrome, etc)

It is a momentary action switch, probably not the technical name for it but it clicks when depressed and activates and then releases by itself which is exactly like the one i had on my machine. I'm not sure if the switch that was on my machine was an original mind you, sure didn't look factory installed. The new one works excellent and i can sink heaps more boats, that's of course if i haven't sunk too much Bourbon before playing
I've had a request for some more detailed pics so here's the inside shots of the handle and the "door protectors" i used to give the button a bit more height and feel.

DSC02047_(resized).JPG

DSC02048_(resized).JPG

DSC02045_(resized).JPG

DSC02046_(resized).JPG

LOL i didn't realise you could shoot with the flipper buttons

CPR playfields MUST be close to release, it's disappeared from the "pipe"

Got fed up with having a faded/patchy shooter handle so finally had mine chromed. Really happy with the results and now need to get the cab decals done. Might wait for a new playfield first though That brings me around to my question >> Does anyone know if Kevin gets in touch with people on the waiting list for leftover playfields? OR is it just first in best dressed after they have contacted all the pre-order mob?

DSC02162_(resized).JPG

DSC02163_(resized).JPG

Yeah i did too but i mean does he contact when it's time to purchase though, after the pre-order guys have been sorted?

I'd not seen this before, confirms what i had suspected though, the button on my shooter handle wasn't original

So i added 4 spotlights to my machine (2 either side on top of the slings), hooked into the GI, and initially looked awesome, sure lit up that dark area in the center of the machine. However upon starting a game, BAM, all the playfield GI went out. I checked what i suspected and sure enough blown fuse at 106. I de-soldered the spots, whacked in a new fuse and now alright so it wasn't a short that caused it but most likely an overload.
My tech question is this >> On my Judge Dredd machine i have a total of 7 spots all tied into the GI circuit and haven't had any issues in well over a year (nearly 2), any particular reason why FT would be more fragile when it comes to adding spots to the GI circuit? As far as i'm aware both machines are virtually the same when it comes down to the GI, etc. I also have all the star posts lit on both machines (also attached to the GI) Any Ideas??? The only thing that is different on the FT compared to Dredd normally is that during attract mode all the GI turns off for a little while whilst it cycles the playfield lights. Surely that wouldn't make the difference??

Using LED's and after de-soldering the spots the machine has been left on for 4 hours now and played a few games as well

Just an update on the mystery, i've got it sorted now although i'm not sure of the technical issue that caused it. The right side double spots are wired into the under sling LED GI socket (which is yellow/white wire), the left side double spots were wired into the GI socket that is one of the back ball guide one's (has yellow wires and violet/white). I swapped the left spots over to one of the sling sockets (same string as the right side) and it's been fine ever since. NO IDEA why to be honest, if it was an overload you would think the extra set of spots on the same yellow/white string would create the same issue. I've not had the extra time to follow up on just what is allocated on the violet/white string but for some reason the 2 spots were pushing it over the edge. I guess this is a good lesson for anyone wanting to add extra lighting into the system but i'm hoping someone can provide a more detailed technical explanation as to the reasons why it occurred. I also added a 12 volt LED strip behind the flippers to finish off that portion behind the scope of the lower facing spots. The pic looks super bright but that's just my camera adjusting to the lack of ambient light (it's very good at low light shooting). All the room lights were turned off and the only thing on was the FT machine.

DSC02264_(resized).JPG

First time i've ever cracked it for the super jackpot

DSC02398_(resized).JPG

I added an LED button to my shooter handle, go back a few pages, there's a description on what to search for on fleabay and some after pics. First post on page 14 shows the handle after i had it re-chromed and with the LED installed.

Wrong on so many levels that is

Attaches to the flasher light board for the boatramp pretty sure it only goes one way.

There's only 2 x 7 pin plugs (6 pins + 1 key) in that area and both have similar colour wiring, one goes to the light board on the boatramp (right beside the flasher board) which you've got hooked up and the other one goes to the right hand light board (the one that covers the 3 green lock inserts)

I didn't look at the top of the playfield, ahh well, 1 out of 2 ain't too bad

Yeah not keen on those myself, prefer the one i used. Square buttons just don't suit the handle i feel, the round type look aesthetically more eye pleasing. Personal choice of course

Interesting effect. So is that a piece of semi transparent coloured perspex and a led strip behind it? In a lot of ways i like that better than my lit button actually

I guess i could say i was the first in this club to do an LED button although i doubt very much it hadn't been done before. I was inspired by your effort so i did my own version of it
I used a red piece of acrylic (perspex) as i already had the green LED button and i wanted to have some contrast between the two. Instead of a socket i used a 12V red LED strip (the type with adhesive backing) inside the roundish curve of the handle and also hooked it up with one of those dimmer/mode switches. LED strip has 5 levels of brightness (on FLAT OUT in the pic ) and also has varying types of pulse/flash/speed settings. I've also added the green button LED into the same circuit so they are in unison. I did find that i needed to use some black electrical tape inside the handle along the seam/join of the two halves as there was some light leakage. The whole circuit is still hooked into the coin door interface board, as it was before with the LED button, but i used some of those small red plug connectors you can get on fleabay to make the job neater and also easily removable. I can provide some other pics if people wish to see how i went about it. I needed a job distraction, my JD project machine has been annoying the crap outta me, lol.

DSC02534 (resized).JPG

They look good but i'm wondering if the effect of the yellow highlighting on the fish you would normally see is a bit lost with the lighting? It's a bit hard to tell in the pic but is the portion normally yellow on the standard panel white on these? If so, do you have plans to do them in a different colour, if possible that is. To my eye it just looks a little washed out with white.

BUGGER, on closer inspection of the photo i see i missed a bit

I have used a relatively local furniture removalist company over here. Got a pin from Brisbane to where i am, which is a LONG way away, like close to 2000km (perhaps more) It was shipped on it's legs with the head box down and arrived in TOP shape all for the price of $200 Oz money. I'm wondering about the quality of shipping in the states now to be honest!!

Yeah i've got a sheet with the following insert decals still on it >> L, I, E, Lock 1, Lock 2, Lock 3, Special x 2, Lite Fish Finder x 2, Cast Again, Video Mode, Rock The Boat, Lite X-Ball, Hold Bonus 1,000,000 and the Auto Cast one your are chasing. I wont be needing any of these as i will eventually be swapping to a new CPR playfield.

I've got some spare ones i don't need that are printed on photo paper, laminate them and they come up sweet (not my design mind you. Aurium does them), message me with your postal addy and i'll send them to you. This is his site by the way >> http://www.pinballcards.com

DSC02652 (resized).JPG

Here's where you can get the "Stretch the truth" plastic and the other one. This link is for the STT plastic
http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/fish-tales/4172/fish-tales-plastic-30-0676-8-sp?c=2826
Topper dome seems to be out of stock most places at the moment except Ministryofpinball.
You can also buy a complete plastic set from Littleshopofgames <<< might work out cheaper in the long run considering postage, etc from pinballcenter for 2 plastics.

To be honest i'm not sure. Most repro's are exact but i have heard of some copies not being up to scratch. The FT's ones look ok going off the pics. Ahhhh bugger about the topper dome, thought they were showing as in stock, sorry about that

I really like Titan rubbers and colour of choice for that. I've used Super Bands for flipper bat rubbers and liked them, there is a slight difference to normal rubber (some argue it's HEAPS different) but i've since changed all my machines over to Titan rubbers all round

OK, what are these? psychedelic coloured side rails? I must admit, my interest is piqued

Interesting Rail/Legs colour, is it gold coated? or yellow paint?

Excellent job
Did you source the Chrome coin door from somewhere OR get your original chromed? The reason i ask this is because it doesn't seem to have the obvious hexagonal bolt/rivet heads showing like some bought chromed doors do. This is what i'm looking to achieve for my BOP restore. Can you provide some info on this if possible? I was going to get my original door chromed but i need to find a way to "cover" those hex heads so it doesn't show in the finish.

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=TLT

or

http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/game-specific-items/williams/fish-tales/fish-tales-translite-3d.html

Considering Euro conversion you're better off ordering from Planetary. I can vouch for how good they look on the machine, i have the Prototype on mine. Stunning is the best description

I can't get to my machine at the moment to check where the GI for that is connected to, busted wires anywhere?

Marco's don't have the complete assembly in stock but they do have most of the parts needed to construct the assembly though, from what i can see.

This is a link to the parts list for Fish Tales at Marcospecialties, i didn't have a major look but pretty sure i spotted most of the bits needed for the assembly, including the main bracket and coil holder brackets. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/252

The drop target is integral to the game play, i've not actually tried playing my machine with no target to be honest

My initial thought would be that you have shorted/buggered diodes on a flipper coil, this can also cause a cascade effect which will blow the corresponding TIP's on the Fliptronic's board. If you have blown TIP's and replace them definitely replace the diodes on the flipper coils also.

http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/williams-parts/fish-tales/target-21.html

It's second hand so not sure what it's like condition wise but pretty sure it would still be fine, they wouldn't put it up for sale otherwise.

Only way around that is perhaps get someone outside the US to buy items and then ship to the US from there, costly exercise but if something can't be sourced locally may be the only option.

http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/catalogsearch/result/?q=fish+tales+handle

Left side only though
or
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/21-6689-4

Also only left side. No idea why the right side is hard to get, seems a bit weird.

I've also heard of people adapting a real fishing reel also but not seen one myself as yet.

The handle is split into 2 pieces vertically so they are not identical, rather, a mirror image, so you can't just use 2 left's to make a complete handle.

Yeah most likely correct, i guess that proves there's more right handed people out there than left handed

Ahh true, for vid mode! If i remember correctly someone mentioned back in the previous pages that you can use the flipper buttons to do that, which i wasn't aware of at the time, i've always used the reel handle.

Damn, that's a real bummer. Wonder if someone could make a resin copy (or something similar) using the two halves as a templates?

Looks to be in usual shape for a FT machine, decal fade is normal for these and yours isn't as faded as mine is. If your machine isn't working then get it operational and enjoy, absolutely fun machine to play

I believe the ones you have got there can be scaled when you print them out, so you can do them different sizes. It's been a while since i did mine so i can't remember exactly the process sorry.
Edit* Ok, just looked on his site, you have to select "Do not scale" in your printer settings.

I had a few reset issues with mine recently and the ribbon cable from the CPU to the driver board was the culprit. I've also heard that re-seating the ASIC chip can sometimes help.

Yeah that sounds about right. Over here they ended up being about $1450 but of course shipping is over $300 and the conversion rate is a killer too

This mob have green lightning but i'm not sure of the sizing though, might have to message them.
http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/flipper-components/flipper/2402/flipper-with-lightning-bolt-green?c=2212

Could also be due to a bad ribbon cable, or just need's reseating.

I'd add my 2 cents worth about my choice of led's also but the most relevant thing has already been stated (Personal preference). I think you will find that trying a few different options is perhaps the best, so maybe just get a couple each of a target group of led's, trial them out and go from there. I've added certain led's before, stood back and thought "Yeahhhh dig it"..... few days later turn on the machine and go "WTF was i thinking and who slipped the acid tab in my breakfast cereal?"
A bit of trial and error never goes astray and it's quite likely even your own tastes for lighting your machines will change with time.

It wouldn't be too hard to create one no, main thing is getting all the mounting holes for brackets, etc lined up where you need them. You would also need to replace the front water decal or possibly remove the old one to re-use. You could also carefully chisel out part of the board where the bracket for the coil sits (perhaps 5mm), hence making the coil sit in closer, food for thought

Yeah that's the bit i meant. Further back in the pages of this club thread someone also posted several options for that scenery as well if you wanted to get it printed out/laminated.

I think it's possibly MDF or an equivalent particleboard anyway. I'd be going for a nice plywood if you want to make one or even a hardwood perhaps?

That would work too but depends on how much extra length is needed (i'm tipping it's not a lot) and the increments in plunger size lengths.

I've just added a little extra bling to sit above the topper, bolted to the wall bracket behind and not actually touching the topper itself. I spotted these listed in a local buy-swap-sell Facebook group and just couldn't resist buying one, especially when the words fit so perfectly with the call out.... FISH ON !!!!
I could get more of these if people are interested, it was air brush painted by a local artist and the price was $50 Aus + $16 Aus posted to me. I guess they could be shipped overseas, doubt there is anything restricted involved as it's just painted pine board with scalloped edges.

DSC03667 (resized).JPG

DSC03668 (resized).JPG

I'm thinking about getting a color dmd for my machine, i have the LED version on my JD. What is the better option for FT?...LCD or LED, and yeah i know it's a personal preference thing where everyone has their own favourite BUT, it's also true that one or the other version suits particular machines graphics better also.

Hahahahahah 1 all, but i did expect it to be like that

I'm sorry but i spat my bourbon on my monitor when i read that bit

Did you change batteries with the machine off?

Hmmm with the machine turned on it shouldn't matter if they were all taken out at the same time, unusual, not had that happen before.

Something to do with the sound chips perhaps?? Try re-seating them if they are socketed (pretty sure they are) otherwise i got no ideas.

It's an absolute bloody shame too and i don't blame Mario and the 3D crew for that either

Have you checked that fuse? usually if a string of solenoids are effected it's most likely a blown fuse.

True, there will be a catalyst for the issue somewhere.

Another way of getting round that is to create an account with a mob like Shipito. There is a European address (Austria) that you can have items shipped too cheaply and then from there to the US (usually quite cheaply also). Once at your US address it's another relative small postage charge to get delivered. It will be sure cheaper than 420 Euros

Totally agree. I sold a STTNG as i needed some extra cash at the time and bought my Fish Tales with half that cash.... i have never missed the Trek once, the first game on Fishy and i was hooked So from a rules outlook, i went from a complex machine to a far easier one but i reckon the fun factor doubled easily

You've got a reset issue, quite often caused by the watchdog circuit that monitors 5V on the driver board which will shut down the MPU and then restart if the voltage drops below a certain point. It could be other issues also but that's the most likely, it's difficult to diagnose the exact cause going off the vid.

Checked my machine for that gate........didn't even know it had one

Also here.
https://www.rtbb.com.au/product-category/game-specific-parts/fish-tales/

Pretty much not available anywhere that i know of unless you find a 2nd hand one. If yours is only cosmetically damaged, as in the nickel plating is worn off, then just get it re-coated. You can get them done in black nickel, brass, chrome or powder coated in any colour you choose. I had mine chromed and it came up a treat

Best option is to have it chromed professionally, it may cost a bit more but the results will be worth it and will LAST. I personally wouldn't use any chrome type spray paint as it generally doesn't wear well (particularly with something being handled a lot) and the finish will dull with the handling quickly. I had mine chromed for about $240 AUS (about $170 US) but on hindsight i paid a bit too much for it at the time.

10aab1cb4f56cf454cd3cf58b8e39794bfbfa548 (resized).jpg

Bought some chrome items from this bloke before, sure does some great work

These one's?
https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/decals/decals-playfield-ramp/fish-tales-williams-pinball-machine-ramp-water-decals-bottom-mount-under-ramp/
There is 2 types also, one lot mounts on top of the ramp plastic, other one underneath.

HOLY SHHHEEETTTT

PSPA over here has a 2nd hand right hand side of the bracket with the wheel attached but unfortunately not that left side bracket Surely someone out there would have an old assembly floating around.

That complete left and right sides i believe was one set Mark found in his stash, that he's been working through for some time now. Don't think it lasted long on his site either It seems the bolts for the handles are also impossible to find too, well, at least one side of them is. Always did wonder about the lack of right hand sides too, maybe cause a majority of players would be gripping the assembly with the right hand and it wears quicker? Not that it would stuff the metal though, only the nickel plating.

Are the bulbs making good contact in the holders? sometimes it can be a simple issue.

Yeah paying premium on the shipping charge with CPR unfortunately but i guess we should all be used to it over here It always amuses me when i see posts from our US pinball brothers from other mothers about the cost of shipping parts (etc) from Oz to US We definitely cop the raw prawn over here in comparison!! And before anyone comments, yeah i know CPR is Canadian but of course payments are in USD.

Looks awesome!! Only thing i can recommend is taking it apart again and checking all the solders to the switch BUT before that try checking the connector/re-seating where the whole assembly connects to the wiring loom. From memory it's a 2 or 3 pin plug.

If you are plugging into GI or controlled inserts it will be 5V, flashers are always 12V.

Correct, and the resistor value is 510 ohms (1/4W). This resistor value will work with up to 12V input. I've used these myself on 3mm Led's which depending on colour can range in voltage value i might add. White/Blue/Green are usually rated at about 3V while colours like Red/Yellow are slightly less value at for example 2.2V etc.

Jon9508 Those pre wired types are fine unless there is some tension/stress on the wires, the leg of the resistor is tacked straight onto the leg of the diode and in a very poor way. If there will be any possibility of stress on the wire then it's better to buy the resistors yourself and solder it onto the wire further down from the diode.

It would give you the time/date message if you have just recently swapped to using the NVram. It is worth noting that most NVram's (certainly the ones i've used) don't keep accurate time and date anyway.

Possibly the same one that i used originally i think. I will PM you later on, about to have some chow

Post #651(Pg 14) in this thread shows the button in question that i added to my machine after i had the handle chromed. I don't have the pic on this PC unfortunately. Post #467 (Pg 10) was the original post after i had added the button and another follow up at Post #546 (Pg 11)

Bought mine off fleabay originally but you should be able to get them at Jaycar or maybe Altronics? The one i got was 19mm diameter from memory (the body of it not the top) and you will need to drill out the area. Or get a tad trickier and use a square of coloured acrylic (think i used 6mm) and add another LED or LED strip to light the area up also. Got both the button and acrylic LED strip hooked up to one of those optional touch pads that have brightness control and flash effects.

DSC04847 (resized).JPG

Yep, button has an internal LED and i have a 6 LED red strip stuck to the inside round edge (closest part to where it flares out and gets bolted to the cab). I did have to block out some of the light shining through the slight join gap of the two halves ... missed a bit too

If you want the LED lit all the time the easiest way is to source 12V and Ground from the coin door interface board (below the left flipper button inside the cab) @ connector J2, the pins are marked on the board which one is 12V and which is Ground (Pin 4 grey/yellow is 12V and Pin 5 black is ground) On the button the 2 circled pins are for the LED, + for 12V and - for Ground. For attaching the button to the original button wiring the following is from a message i sent to another FT user some years back BUT the button i used (and the other bloke) only had 3 pins. Yours has 2 sets of the same so i'm not totally positive it will make any difference which set you use as long as they are aligned with each other??

The new switch has 3 terminals in a row (in the middle) and 1 terminal either side (these are the LED 12v and ground terminals). You will see letters beside each of the 3 terminals, these are >> NC (normally closed), NO (normally open) and C (closed or comm). Your original switch should have been wired the same as mine and the 2 wires went to a plug inside the machine. There should be a white wire and a green wire, the white wire goes to NC and the green wire goes to NO. I soldered the diode in the same way it was on the micro switch which is >>> One end to NC and the BANDED end to C (banded end has a grey band around it)
57e59385bffc83e956fa6a7a2dd60214a5c16caa (resized).jpg

Nope, that single LED is fine on the system and mine is running LED star posts, extra lighting (floods) and a few mods.

Having too many mods can definitely tax the system for sure!! I've found on some machines you always find out when you've reached critical mass With a machine completely changed over to LED's from standard globes you gain a slight buffer point from the original design parameters but it is worth mentioning that some mods draw more power (generally speaking mech mods with motors, etc)

Looks like it's missing the tension spring.

Machine looks awesome!!! I've really got to get mine re-decaled, and whack in the CPR repro PF. Too many projects on the go at the moment...one day