Hopkins, MN
Quoted from Junkhauler:Does anyone sell the screenprinted plastic that surrounds the speakers and dmd on a Fish Tails?
http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/fish-tales-speaker-panel.html
LTG : )
(Topic ID: 57782)
Linked Games
Fish Tales
Williams, 1992
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2 weeks later
Quoted from Kneissl:It's wired, put one in.
It might not be in the software, unless the wires are GI.
Go into Tests - Single Lamp - and scroll through them and see if there is one in there. If so hit the "+" or "-" diagnostic buttons to step through wire colors and connector info, because you'll need a diode on it if it's a feature lamp.
If the wires are GI, then no diode.
LTG : )
Quoted from trilogybeer:I am having trouble figuring out what is causing the low voltage
DMD driver board wants the high voltage section rebuilt.
Or get on of these :
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2828
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=5328
LTG : )
Quoted from trilogybeer:So these boards basically replace the the High voltage section on the dmd controller board ? Plug them in and go , no soldering? Seems pretty easy , is this a pretty solid fix ? Or is rebuilding the high voltage section preferred?
My TZ one had multiple repairs in the past. ( not me ) and I picked up this one from Terry at Pinball Life.
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2828
5 minutes to put in. Plug and play. Done deal. Been working fine for about a year now in commercial use.
LTG : )
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:we would just buy a new DMD board.
I've read the new ones are okay for ColorDMD because power comes from elsewhere. Ed at Great Plains posted they aren't adequate for regular DMD's. Don't know if it's true or not.
My DMD driver board in the TZ would have needed a lot of work, rebuilding traces and what not. New board was $95, high power board from Terry $52, so I went the cheap route. Glad I did.
Ed at Great Plains has ( or had ) kits to rebuild the high voltage section. If my board wasn't hacked up I would have done that.
LTG : )
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=WPC-HVP-KIT
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=WPC95-HVP-KIT
Don't know which one you need. There is a note on there to be notified when back in stock.
LTG : )
Quoted from Allibaster:Can someone tell me if I positioned them correctly in the photo, or if the flippers need to be re-positioned elsewhere relative to the marker holes? They are currently positioned in line with the in/outlane guides using a straight edge.
Your game - put them where you like for game play.
Some line them up with the lane guide. Some put a tooth pick between the rubber ring and flipper body and stick the end of the tooth pick into the hole where the roll pin is in the playfield.
LTG : )
3 weeks later
Quoted from pindude80:do you have a picture of the actuating arm,
This might help. Now the arm can be facing left or facing right, depending on the game and which side the smaller coil is mounted.
LTG : )
1 year later
Quoted from guitarded:Any ideas of where to start sussing the issue?
Tests - Switch Edge - does the switch work ?
Tests - Coils - does the diverter coil fire ?
Start by narrowing it down.
LTG : )
Quoted from guitarded:Guessing bad coil?
Ground the tab on the transistor that fires them. If it doesn't fire, then a break in wiring from transistor legs to the coil itself, not just the lugs.
If it fires, maybe ribbon cable from CPU to driver board or something on the board upstream from the transistor.
LTG : )
Quoted from guitarded:So, if you wouldn't mind explaining the procedure
If you had a jumper wire with an alligator clip on each end would help.
Clip one end to the metal tab on the top of the transistor. The other end, briefly touch to metal in the backbox. Like the metal back that all the boards are fastened to. Or the top of a screw securing the board to the big metal plate back there.
LTG : )
4 weeks later
Quoted from Metzu:I don't stop the drop target there
The switch is in the down position, as is the target lift. Looks like it's there. For a few bucks, why take a chance. Order the assembly and a target.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8750
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:Wondering if there’s any obvious reason for it?
Somebody didn't have exact replacements when working on it.
LTG : )
Quoted from nwpinball:Trying to verify the wiring is correct.
The game can tell you. No diodes on the coil, so which side they go to doesn't matter.
Leave fuse out. You don't need it for this.
Go to Tests - Solenoid. Stop on the coil you want. Then hit the start button. Then hit the "+" diagnostic button. Each time you hit it, it will step you through coil name, wire colors, fuse, drive transistor, connector, etc.
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from Blenderhead:Does anyone know if there are some decals available that would go in the inlane drop/wear spots? I recall having bought some many years ago but do not currently know of a source.
https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/game-specific-items/williams/fish-tales.html scroll down the page.
LTG : )
Quoted from lanfeust:I think mine have the wires at the wrong place,
If you have lights not lighting. I would reflow the pins on the board the connector plugs onto. Gravity and vibration are hard on them.
LTG : )
Quoted from lanfeust:picture of this connector
Quoted from Roamin:There you go
This may help you. Red arrow points to a missing wire on yours.
LTG : )
6ce735a01c8db8a396b4398bdfd2531ae004d0fa (resized).jpgQuoted from Roamin:I don't think any wires are missing on my machine.. The boat plays and lights exactly as it should.
Yours is perfect.
I used your picture, and photo shopped in a picture of his connector next to yours, to make it easier for him to compare and see the difference. I put a red arrow on his where it's an empty spot.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from Liakos:My fishtales keeps re setting...
Go over the check list. Don't guess or mask it.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets
LTG : )
3 months later
Quoted from Cmjb13:Regarding the small ribbon cable that connects the two boards.
I’ve seen it installed with the red stripe up and the red stripe down. Does it matter?
Each board has a "1" stenciled next to the connector. Red stripe goes there. That side.
Gray side can go to "1" on both sides too. Main thing is that the ends go to the same spot facing the same way on both boards. If not BOOM !
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Cmjb13:Hooked everything back up
Miss any connectors ? Any connectors in the wrong spot or facing the wrong way ? Ribbon cables in the right spots red stripe pin one each end and not off by a row ?
LTG : )
Quoted from Cmjb13:Fuse I replaced is fried again
If repair job was good. Something ain't hooked up right.
LTG : )
Quoted from Cmjb13:However, nothing shows on the dmd display ( ribbon cable and connectors are installed correctly). I hear a light crackling sound coming from the speakers and I keep hearing the “bong” startup sound about every 15 seconds. It will not let me start a game
Pull and check all your fuses.
Hopefully J101 mishap didn't hurt the board. Check with your board repair guy.
LTG : )
Quoted from Cmjb13:I thought the replacement of J120 & J121 would have fixed the playfield lights as they were not working prior to the purchase. I didn’t see any loose wires breaking the chain under the playfield.
Did you replace the connectors too ? Pins on the board are only half the battle.
Glad you are gaining ground on this.
LTG : )
Quoted from Cmjb13:I’m thinking maybe I didn’t crimp one of those pins correctly?
Easy to check. First I'd check wire colors with Pinwiki - https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems
Then with a meter set to AC see where you have power going out and where you don't. I'd also check the AC to the driver board for your GI - no power in means no power out.
LTG : )
Quoted from Cmjb13:So basically multimeter connected on one end to J121 pin 3 (yellow) and the other to each of the yellow cable on each lamp socket?
I'd turn game off and check continuity of each wire from connector to sockets. Try and locate the break.
LTG : )
Quoted from Cmjb13:Should I get some sort of reading?
Yes. Continuity. Sounds like a break from connector to lamp socket.
LTG : )
Quoted from Cmjb13:So this means that the sockets are getting power?
Turn the game on and check.
LTG : )
3 weeks later
Quoted from Cmjb13:I checked the manual and it states flippers are standard (non-lightning)
Lightening flippers were installed on Fish Tales and Bram Stoker Dracula, to shorten ball times to help op's earnings.
Manuals weren't changed.
LTG : )
2 months later
Quoted from airplanequartet:Any suggestions on where to start?
Manual - do they have a fuse common to all of them ? Pull and check with a meter.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Manual - do they have a fuse common to all of them ? Pull and check with a meter.
Page 1-32 check fuse F105 on the driver board.
LTG : )
2 months later
Quoted from Pinkitten:My wife is creative and makes custom target decals for me.
That mad looking fish lock one is great !
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Madmax541:What am I missing?
Pull fuses and check with a meter ?
If all good, then measure the 50 volt test point on the driver board, maybe the 50 volt bridge rectifier opened.
LTG : )
Quoted from Madmax541:Previously pulled fuses checked w DMM. All good
Checked for 50 Vdc tp #6 driver board measured 74 Vdc and measure @ flipper solenoid measured 74Vdc
That's weird.
I'd try a different ribbon cable between CPU and Driver Board next if you can.
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Torx are meant to be single use.
Torx are meant to make theft harder. Especially security Torx. Not every thief in a location carries a driver for them.
LTG : )
Quoted from Veemonroe:Any ideas?
Is it getting stuck on the underside of the wireform ? If so raise it up with some washers. It should be adjusted a little to the right to drop the ball in the center of the return lane.
If not that, be sure under the plastic there is the correct post holding the rubber ring - if too big that would make the gap smaller.
Pull the black rubber mini ring of the single post on the left. It should have one, but that will give you more room for the ball.
LTG : )
Quoted from Veemonroe:I’ve lifted the rubber ring slightly over the pegs on the left-hand slingshot (see picture),
Loosen the plastic post and see if you can move it over a little.
If not put the slingshot rubber ring back in place and remove the black mini ring.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Scott8806:It also says in Manuel in u 9 u can add 5 balls to the game its just not working
No. You can change it to a 5 ball per game play. You can't put 5 balls in the game.
Just use 3 balls. Each player will get to play a 5 ball game.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Veemonroe:looks like I just take out the two nuts on the flasher board
Unscrew the hex head screws that hold it to the underside of the playfield.
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from pinballslave:Personally I find it useful for working on the flippers, puts them at a convenient height... my new prop:
Automobile hood prop works great too. They are adjustable so you can set the height where you want it.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from Don44:Should I assume the AE-23-800 is stronger and is too strong?
Yes. Less turns is stronger. 800 is the number of turns, or 1200, 23 or 27 is gauge of wire.
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from pinballslave:I changed out the 'L' switch for a spare after testing it, started the game up, the ball rolled over the 'E' and didn't register...
Wired right ? White wire to black end of the diode to a lug, green wire to a lug, silver banded end of diode to a lug. Compare to working switches in your game. All wired the same.
LTG : )
Quoted from Neal_W:You can get those .156 connectors, headers, and pins from great plains electronics.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=37 Ed has parts and tools.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Drac:In solenoid test nothing fires. What should I do next?
Any other solenoids not firing ? Check solenoid fuses.
Just fish tail solenoid not working ? Then check solenoid for broken wires at the coil lugs, especially the thin wires from the coil windings to the lugs - easy to have a crack or break you can't see.
LTG : )
Quoted from Drac:I feel foolish that I didn't check this first.
No reason to feel foolish. It's okay to ask for ideas before diving in. If you aren't sure. Can save you a lot of frustration and get you going quicker.
Especially if it's a problem unique to a game that others may have run into.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from Luk3:Anyone know about a topper for one?
Checked online and not seeing an all inclusive topper. Found a background and clear box. That's about it.
Keep an eye on Ebay $$$$
Or get the background and clear box. Then hit Craigslist for a Billy Bass
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from JOESCHALL:What is the simplest way to update to L-5?
Get the L-5 game ROM, pull out the L-4 game Rom, stick the L-5 game ROM in. Line up the notch on the end of the chip with the mark on the board. Don't trust labels.
LTG : )
Quoted from 2pupPinz:This is exactly why it’s worth reading Pinside! I had no idea that the ROM installed mattered. Thanks for the info!!
Here is an example.
LTG : )
closeup-ic-polarity (resized).jpg 1 month later
Quoted from weasel671:What is the problem and how do I fix?
Loosen pawl nut and adjust it then tighten pawl nut.
If it's higher at rest, gently bend the stop on the flipper base plate a little so it's lower.
LTG : )
4 weeks later
Quoted from PjM:Can’t recall who sells the FT side blades ! Any help? Thanks
https://pinballdecalseu.com/shop/fish-tales-sideboard-pinball-blades/
https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/fish-tales-pinball-sideblades/
https://www.flylanddesigns.com/product/fish-tales-side-art-blades-for-pinball-machines/
LTG : )
Quoted from JohnTTwo:I did swap out the batteries for Lithium ones.
Too cool.
Now grab a meter and see if battery power is getting onto the board. Easy to have a failing battery holder, the contacts that grip the ends of the battery.
Any battery damage ?
LTG : )
1 month later
1 month later
3 weeks later
Quoted from Roamin:Can you recommend which leaf blade I should get ?
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-pop-bumper-switch-sw-11a-37.html
Quoted from Roamin:I'd like to only change the blades with contacts instead of the whole thing with spoons and all.
No extra work if the blades come with a spoon. Either way you have two wires to solder.
LTG : )
Quoted from Axaios:Can someone upload detailed pictures of the inside of the upper cabinet?
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=861&picno=13226
LTG : )
7 months later
Correct number of balls in the game ?
Arm that kicks the balls to the shooter lane, if it's anywhere near close to the arm of the last switch in the ball trough, if it hits it you will get another ball with the first ball kicked out.
LTG : )
2 months later
Quoted from jv2_pinball:Wondering if I might be missing a bracket or something.
This picture might help :
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=861&picno=12492&zoom=1
LTG : )
3 weeks later
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:It's pretty simple to figure out and/or work on.
Worn or somebody silenced it a bit ?
LTG : )
4 weeks later
Quoted from gmanrulz46:how could i fix that?
Do you have any soldering experience ? Flowing solder to make a good joint ? If not Youtube is full of short how to videos. Get a soldering iron, solder ( lead if you can ) and scraps of wire.
Practice. When you can flow the solder good, move onto your circuit board. The pins the connector plugs onto, flow some new solder on each joint. Just a bit, don't make a solder bridge across each joint.
Or get a friend that can solder to do this for you. Only take a few minutes.
LTG : )
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