(Topic ID: 57782)

Fish Tales - Casters Club!!

By shacklersrevenge

10 years ago


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  • 5,588 posts
  • 571 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 25 hours ago by Stebel
  • Topic is favorited by 228 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider daveyvandy.
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#2641 4 years ago

Woohoo! Just joined the club two days ago - and it's my first table I actually own
This table is hard as hell, and I am pretty decent.
Got my first super jackpot today and it feels really good.
Thinking of getting some of the mods here: https://fulltiltpinballleds.com/?s=fish+tales&post_type=product
Anyone have these? I worry a little about air-balls destroying them...

IMG_20191118_151615 (resized).jpgIMG_20191118_151615 (resized).jpg
#2645 4 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

None of those mods looks like they belong in the game to me. But, who am I? I like powdercoating

That's a fair point. I was at least going to get the mermaid since it's on the side of the back box and my 3 yr old loves mermaids

#2654 4 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

I have them and they're all in the game so I feel like they work , don't worry about air balls they're tuff as . I also like the fishing rod if you can find it .[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wow those look great! Even better than the shop photos. Thanks for sharing! I'll probably get all three

5 months later
#3010 3 years ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

I have a GI OCD board but that’s going in CV, lots of dimming of the gi in that game.
I watched FT papa video to see how much the gi dimmed/faded in FT with incandescents but didn’t notice hardly anything, maybe the camera didn't catch it that well?

I have a White Water Right next to FT and white water definitely needs the GI OCD as well as the LED OCD. My Fish Tales just has LED OCD in it and it works great. I don't think the GI OCD would really make a difference for FT.

2 months later
#3199 3 years ago
Quoted from nwpinball:

What rubber situation is supposed to be happening here? I replaced the existing old crumbling one with the same size, but this is too beefy, the new ball in play hits it and bounces over to the right flipper instead of heading down to the left flipper.
[quoted image]

I went ahead and put single rubbers on the two posts instead of just the one that spans the two. It's not matching the manual, but now I don't get any down the middle drains when the ball comes flying down the left orbit.

#3207 3 years ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Mine stopped about a week ago. Havnt had a chance to check it out yet, but I bet it's the same problem. I'll do the mod to help quiet the fish while I'm up there.

How do you do the "quiet mod"?

#3209 3 years ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Well, I read a few different things about adding rubbers here and there. Once I took the topper apart and figured out how the mechanism worked, I did a few things that I thought would help. I cut down a shooter rod tip and put it on the shaft that hits the fishes tail, added a rubber ring where the plunger slams into the coil body, and added a thicker bump stop to the back of the mechanism where the coil hits. These three mods have made my fish TOTALLY SILENT!! You still get the shaker effect. Heres a pic of my assembly before and after I reinstalled it on the backboard.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome work, I'm definitely going to have to do this!

#3211 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

You guys should trade for a whitewater.... That topper is nice and quiet!

Done. Just traded with myself.

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4 weeks later
#3233 3 years ago
Quoted from Roamin:

I don't think any wires are missing on my machine.. The boat plays and lights exactly as it should.

Think he's referring to the other poster.

1 month later
#3299 3 years ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Will check that, thanks!
But that's weird that it does it only in the MB, not at any other time.

Yeah, like multi-ball is not already hard enough in this game!

1 year later
#3945 2 years ago
Quoted from JustAnotherRat:

Got to the 79th page and still no answer. I wanted to read the full thread before posting any questions.
Have owned a Fish Tales (one of my two grail pins) for about 3 weeks now and it is in pretty good condition, it does need the cabinet art replaced but that can wait for now. Where the ball drops from the rail onto the left inlane is wearing. I'm guessing some mylar on both side will be the prevention for further damage but what is the best way to fix the appearance? Are there decals available for this or do I need to look into water slides which I've seen mentioned?[quoted image]

A Cliffy switch slot protector would cover some of that. For the rest some touch up painting, clear coat and mylar would do it well.

1 week later
#3989 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Thanks! My wife designed the drop target decal, she’s pretty creative and has made target decals for my White Water and BSD too. Radcals are a little tricky to do them right, but they look great when they are done!

What kind of work is needed for installing the radcals? Do you have to sand down the existing cabinet artwork, or can you just put them on over what's there already? Do you have to take the playfield out of the machine? Considering doing this to my white water.

#3993 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

As long as the decals are flat, not raised around the legs or peeling, you don’t need to sand, just clean the cabinet well to remove dirt and dust so the Radcals stick well. If you have any dents or deep scratches in the cab, I would fill them with wood filler and then sand smooth. You want a good, solid surface to stick the Radcals to. You must remove all the bolts and the flipper buttons, and cut your own holes for them in the Radcals. The best way I’ve found is to remove the bolts, coin door, shooter rod, etc., and apply the Radcals. Then, if you hold a flashlight on the inside of the cabinet where the holes should be for the bolts, you can see the light come thru the Radcal and you’ll know where to cut the holes for the bolts. A dremel with a fine tip will cut the holes nicely.
The tricky part, for me, is the playfield. You must remove the hinge bolts that support the playfield. You can either disconnect all the wires and remove the playfield with help from another person, or you can use the “ceiling method.” There is a video online of a guy suspending his Safe Cracker PF from the ceiling and then lowering his cabinet on a Jack to work on it. So, I installed 2 eye-hooks in my basement ceiling beam to hook the playfield to when it’s upright. Then, I carefully unhook the hinges and the pf is suspended by the ceiling. I use a chain to suspend it. Then you can remove the pivot nuts and cabinet bolts and apply your Radcals.
I’m sure other methods are available. This works for me. If you have any questions, just ask! I’m happy to help.
[quoted image]

Awesome, great information and thank you for the detailed response!

1 month later
#4113 2 years ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

It only does it on the first ball, then I get a credit dot for the cast button. Checked the switch matrix and no issues.
The restart might be because Q2 seems damaged from C2
[quoted image]

Check for acid damage on traces below that location as gravity falls. I had similar acid damage on an IC trace which was causing intermittent resets and failures to start. If you have another same era pinball machine you can try swapping the whole board to see if that board is what is giving you problems.

#4172 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

Here's a couple of pics of mine after I cleaned it up a bit by the way...
[quoted image][quoted image]
The boat ramp entrance flap is what let's it down most, but I can live with that

Don't live with it. Replace that decal! I did on mine
Kind of a pain to take off the existing one, if it's chewed up, but be patient.

https://treasurecovepinball.com/Library/decals/fish-tales/fish-tales.htm

1 month later
#4341 2 years ago
Quoted from Don44:

When I power up my fish tales, at times it starts to boot and then shuts down and then boots up regular. Sometimes it starts to boot and shuts down up to 3 times before booting up like it should. Other than that it works fine except for an occasional reboot during a game. I have reseated all the connectors and ribbon cables and replaced the voltage regulator. Any other suggestions?

Check for acid damage on the boards. It's possible you have a trace that took a little damage.

I had a similar issue and it drove me nuts. If there is some damage, you can splice a wire on the back side of the board. But you definitely have to know what to connect. Mine was on the largest board.

2 months later
#4610 1 year ago
Quoted from JLay:

Had a trace blow out on my audio board. Pin 7 on J501, one of the 18vac lines. Was getting a very loud hum from the sub after not playing for a while. Was probing the sub connectors and at some point the humming stopped. I’m assuming that’s when the trace blew up. Or maybe the trace was already damaged and that’s what was causing the humming. Any insight? I have the board pulled out, will try to repair the trace and boot it up again.
I checked the 18v AC at the harness connector and was getting 12v pin1+2, 21v pin4+5 and 6.5v pin6+7… 5v dc we’re all correct too. Game plays normal otherwise, no issues I can see.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Repairing the trace may not be entirely necessary. You could just grab a wire and solder the two points together on the back of the PCB to see if that resolves the issue at least. If that doesn't fix it then maybe components are fried and at that point it would be good to get professional help or get a replacement board.

#4616 1 year ago
Quoted from mcalon:

Hello casters.
I've joined! My cabinet is faded and missing the Topper, but I got it to play real nice and lost the credit dot.
I read the whole thread and didn't find a printable version, or any other version, for the cabinet decals.
Anyone knows how to find it and could direct me please? or is my only option is to purchase something online?
I could print it locally and save myself the hassle..[quoted image]

You might be able to find the assets from the virtual pinball community, but I don't think that they usually scan the cabinet artwork. I printed a decal once from a who dunnit play field scan in the vpx table.

1 week later
#4634 1 year ago
Quoted from JohnTTwo:

My fish Tales is acting fishy. Can you please give me some advice. Got it a week ago, left it off for 5 days, screen came up to saying factory reset. No more free play etc. I did swap out the batteries for Lithium ones.

Consider nvram so you can ditch the batteries. It may require desoldering if your ram chip isn't slotted though.

#4638 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

I think he meant socketed.
LTG : )

Yes, socketed. If you can pull the ram out with a chip puller, then it is socketed and you don't have to desolder anything.

1 month later
#4761 1 year ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Never tried to live catch it from the plunge, but I can knock it straight into the casters club from the plunge about 20% of the time.

This is the best shot in game! I love doing this, always put a smile on my face

1 week later
#4771 1 year ago
Quoted from Paseb:

Anyone installed gi ou inserts ocd board?
Is it necessary? Which one? Or both ?

Do me a favor and hit the 'notify me when in stock' button so that they produce more of these. I'm waiting for the LED OCD insert boards...

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/led-ocd-boards?variant=12493661700140

#4773 1 year ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Stumblor does the Afterglow boards, I swapped the OCD board on mine for one after comparing them. Must have used nearly 20 Afterglow boards now.

That's pretty cool, I hadn't seen that. Do they have a pre-made kits with wiring available? Not sure if I'm in the mood to DIY this lol.

1 month later
#4860 1 year ago

Okay, I had to do a little bit of disassembling to put in a cliffy protector and I ended up taking this switch and the little lure bracket off of the habitrail. Did I put it back on correctly? I saw multiple pictures online that had different orientations of the lure thing up top.
I stacked the lure on top of the switch, which just feels weird.

What do you guys think?

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#4867 1 year ago
Quoted from Roamin:

And here I thought I was so clever.. I'll just lookup my lure switch on my machine , then compare to the licensed tables in both games Williams Pinball and Pinball Arcade .. Well , what can I say ? Even in those 2 licensed games .. The lure switch is reverse from one game to the other! I have mine the same way daveyvandy does. I didn't even think of switching it around , but I might now. I always feel that lure is in my field of view to see if Fish Finder is lit or not and takes an extra moment for my eye to try and see through the lure itself.
Then I thought about looking at the manual to see if it is shown at all , and it is. Looks like we have a winner! Case closed? I'm switching mine around right away! Thanks for pointing this out
On a side note , my jet bumper seems to be working fine since I last cleaned it (again!) with a business card.. I'll be getting a replacement switch soon, just waiting to see if I want to add more stuff to my order.
[quoted image]

Wow, great research!! This for sure provides a clear and quick resolution to #lure-switch gate

2 months later
11
#4908 1 year ago

I reeled in a big one today!
I think I did just about every mode at least a couple of times - super jackpots were up to 300 million by the end

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7 months later
#5273 10 months ago
Quoted from kryss63:

Reversed layout here [quoted image]

They have to be next to each other!

PXL_20230612_013246351 (resized).jpgPXL_20230612_013246351 (resized).jpg
9 months later
#5559 32 days ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

Removing the cliffy wasn’t fun but it fixed that shot 100% for me so I’m happy.

I had a similar issue with that scoop cliffy. I added some thin washers below the scoop hood and solved that problem for me.

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