(Topic ID: 57782)

Fish Tales - Casters Club!!

By shacklersrevenge

10 years ago


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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider davethetrain.
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#3956 2 years ago

Hey all, just bought my first Fish Tales! I've had the same four pins for over a year now, so it's great to get another! Fishy will sit among Black Rose, Road Show, De jurassic park and Pinball Magic!

I'm slowly reading through this thread to get insight into owning a Fishy, one question I have right away is what is the latest ROM?
I played my Fishy before buying and noticed the weird extra balle text. Is it meant to have an e on the end of ball?
It seemed to fit odd on the screen also.
I am aware a rom alters this but not sure which and the difference. Anyone have a picture to compare?

Thanks!

#3964 2 years ago

Ok so what i can grasp from your replies, L-4 doesn't have the xtra balle issue, but L-5 does.

G-5 and D-5 fix it, and are more or less the same roms.

So my question now is where can I get a copy of D-5 or G-5? I have be ability to burn a rom so just need the file.

I notice on ipdb there's a patch for xtra balle and led fix but it's for pinmame, i guess that won't work?

#3972 2 years ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

The D-6 version is the same as the L-5 version, but with the Extra Ball fix and the led ghosting fix in place.
Available from the ipdb: https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=861

Oh so that will work on a real pin? I assumed because it sai d pinmame it wouldn't!

#3973 2 years ago

Another question, Fishy isn't here yet... But i realised I may have an issue.
To get it where its needed I have to shark fin it, my other pins only just fit under the door frame but Fishy has a topper.

Is the topper easy to remove?

Or would it be easier to shark fin the pin without legs on and push it along the floor on a towel or something?

#3976 2 years ago

B/W back boxes won't fit through that doorway, even with door off. So i have to shark fin

Is the topper easily removed and uses standard screws?

1 week later
#4010 2 years ago

Trust me to break the plastic with rivets..

Top right, next to slings with the old fisherman on.
How would I replace this?

#4011 2 years ago

Had mine nearly a week now... Few questions

The kickout for the saucer is very weak, occasionally it'll make it to the middle lane of LIE but mostly the right one (É)... Is that by design?
Very rare but sometimes the ball bounces out of the saucer and to the right orbit.

I also had issues with the trough kickout into the shooter lane, sometimes the ball would bounce back into the trough over and over but the autoplunger would keep firing... Odd considering I thought the ball had to sit on the switch before it fired?

Sometimes the ball would drain and autocast would come up "don't move" but no ball would launch and the end of ball bonus would come up.
(I seem to have eliminated that issue by reassembling the trough to shooter kicker arm but seems odd that would be related and the game just gives up giving you a new ball).

Should it be possible to backhand casters club?

I have my lightning flippers set so they are perfectly in like with the ball guides. I used a piece of straight wood to align them so the gap is even between the wood and flipper rubber. If that makes sense!

#4015 2 years ago

Thanks so much for all your replies!

Pretty close to the hole,, or should they go a little lower?

20211109_155124 (resized).jpg20211109_155124 (resized).jpg
20211109_155117 (resized).jpg20211109_155117 (resized).jpg

Quoted from Neal_W:

You can use a miniature nut and bolt if you don't want to rivet the bracket to that plastic.

Where would I find a new bracket? I'm assuming I can't use the one with rivets on?

#4026 2 years ago
Quoted from bakerhillpins:

Have you found a replacement for this? I might have a spare I could send you. Don't want to spend an hour digging through parts boxes to see what I can find if you've got it covered though.

Not yet no, I've stopped looking as I thought it's not too noticable for now.. But if you have a replacement I'll be interested.. Providing you can ship to UK? Unless you're already in the UK!

Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

When I change out plastics that are riveted, I always drill out the old rivets. Then when it comes time to reassemble, I use 6-32 bolts and nylock nuts. Looks great, works great.

Didn't think of that! If I can't source a riveted replacement I'll try that.

1 week later
#4049 2 years ago

Is it common for the ball to get stuck the switch slot on the top right orbit, below the saucer and above LIE?
I tried fiddling with the way the switch arm sits. To see if it doesn't let it sit there, or let's it roll back and no luck.

Also,
I installed a Afterglow nano (like ledocd) and I'm attract mode all the insert lamps get stuck on after a period of time... But then go back to working if you start a game, enter the operator menu, or restart the game.
I'm not sure if its the afterglow board or its a coincidence.
It seems odd how it works OK for a while then they eventually get stuck on and is solved easily

Any ideas appreciated

#4056 2 years ago
Quoted from harig:

for the afterglow board: Do you have the latest firmware (was it 1.08?) installed ?

Not sure, i suppose I should plug it into my pc and see!

#4059 2 years ago

This might seem really ocd but when the balls are ejected from the reel, where are they supposed to hit? Mine hit the left ball guide and bounce over the flipper, often stdm 3 balls in a row unless I flip wildly!
And sometimes thet jump over the flipper even if you held it up.

Just wondering if they're intended to hit the metal guide or the flippers?

It doesn't appear like I can move the wire form much, the screw is at its furthest and there's no way of moving it any where else as the metal ball guide is in the way.

#4062 2 years ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Mine also would send balls sdtm way too often. It's been a while since I messed with it, but I do remember it was very tight to adjust like you described. I also remember I loosened the ball guide to adjust it, and I also drilled a new screw hole in the playfield for the wireform leg. Through trial and error, mine now feeds the left flipper most of the time. I still get an occasional sdtm though.

Quoted from Neal_W:

Center or slightly left of the center of the left flipper for me. If I hold the left flipper up, the ball goes up the inlane, but that may depend on the angle the flipper is mounted at.

I thought it should hit the flipper! Hitting the metal guide seems so aggressive
I just can't see how I can adjust it, I'll take a look later and maybe post a photo or two for advice.

#4064 2 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

The support for the end of the ramp is slotted, so you can slide the end of the ramp left/right to aim it.

Mine has no room to move, it's right up against the ball guide and where the screw is means it doesn't move to the right.
Unless I made a new hole.

If anyone has a photo of theirs Id appreciate it

#4066 2 years ago

Here's mine
IMG-20211125-WA0005 (resized).jpgIMG-20211125-WA0005 (resized).jpg

Quoted from Neal_W:

I had to make a new hole to move it more to the right.

So how did it come out of the factory and deliver the ball to the left flipper?
I don't understand how we have to make adjustments like that on a game from the 90s

#4069 2 years ago
Quoted from bakerhillpins:

Move the ball guide to the left too?
LOL, just went and took a pic and realized mine is bent at the ramp exit. Have no idea if this is correct. Looks wonky though. On the plus side it hits dead center in the left flipper. I'm starting to wonder if the design was to feed the Right flipper?
[quoted image]

Tried moving the ball guide yesterday, it doesn't have much adjustment, if any, just holes no slots.

Yours is crazy, I don't think it's supposed to be like that

#4070 2 years ago

I made a new hole and moved it further to the right, as far as it would go.

It still hits left of the flipper... I don't understand.

Is there a bend in the wire form I'm missing?
Any ideas at all?
Any comparison shots appreciated

#4071 2 years ago

I get the feeling the ball is falling off the wireform and hitting part of it causing it to spin left..
Could people compare this with theirs?

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#4073 2 years ago
Quoted from onemoresean:

The balls hit the base of the left flipper on mine.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yours is bent to the right a bit, that must be it!

#4076 2 years ago

I'm seeing so many variations of the wireforms.
I don't know what else to check, considering it's supposed to be straight and many have no issues.

No idea what to check, it's level so it's not that (I even got a new digital level).

#4079 2 years ago
Quoted from bakerhillpins:

I'm going to bend mine straight and then start working on bending the wireform to adjust. I'm relatively sure the "push" to the left is due to the longer lower right rail on the wireform. So the ball ends up rolling to the left as it drops.

Please share your findings. I even tried making a new hole and moving it as far right as it can go and still no luck!

I do wonder if the lateral position of the wireform has a bigger impact than we realise.
ie, if you bend the bracket holding it

2 weeks later
#4105 2 years ago

If you nudge and get a tilt warning when your ball is in the trough does it launch the ball? Mine does... Seems weird!

Also I was playing the other day, hit the cast button before the ball had settled and it only went half way up the shooter lane, then when I pressed it again the game restarted

Been unable to reproduce it since.

#4110 2 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

No, a tilt warning should not launch the ball.
In switch test mode, if you trigger the tilt bob, does it show any other switches activating? If you shake the pin or knock on the playfield, do any switches activate?
Random reboots when flipping and such can be due to 5v supply being low and needing repair so keep an eye on that. (they also make little 5v addon boards for wpc that use the 12v to provide 5v as a quick fix)
Also, random weird behavior can be caused by poor connections from old tarnished ribbon cable connections. Reseating (unplug and reconnect) the 2 ribbon cables in the backbox may clear up some issues.

It only does it on the first ball, then I get a credit dot for the cast button. Checked the switch matrix and no issues.

The restart might be because Q2 seems damaged from C2

20211214_212452 (resized).jpg20211214_212452 (resized).jpg

#4112 2 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

That's some interesting looking gunk on top of that part?? Weirdly looks like mold

I know, reminds me of when a battery leaks, or when you get one of those magnets with all the little metal bits you can play with... If this is a real memory

#4115 2 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Yes, you can see where Q2 is soldered to the board, there is light green acid corrosion from somewhere. My guess - maybe that capacitor C2 is leaking. If you desolder that cap you may find the board is stained underneath from leaking.

I've ordered a new cap and voltage regulator. So will take a proper look at the weekend. Hopefully it's not too bad.
It's only restarted once so hopefully early days

Any tips on cleaning it up and being sure the damage is rectified?

#4122 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

Interesting reading! One thing it didn't clarify was the meaning of the 2x, 3x and 4x inserts in front of the flippers... it did say this about the MB jackpots: after going through an entire jackpot sequence (i.e. you've gotten at least one SJ), all of the jackpots become worth minimum 2x their original value! INCLUDING the captive ball super jackpot! And you can still double the jackpots, so you can make major amounts of points on this game. And it keeps increasing with each completed sequence. The multiplier will go as high as 6x...
Is this what the 2x, 3x and 4x is about (just not having the inserts to show 5x and 6x) or is it something else?
Thanks!

They multiply your bonus after each ball. Bonus is built from fish caught and other stuff you don't really notice. A common thing in all pinball machines

#4170 2 years ago
Quoted from Roamin:

Just tested this on my machine that works flawless and this happens. Power up , start a game , close tilt switch and right away it casts the ball. It doesn't give me any error then but if I go in the menu , sure enough switch 31 has an error. This will continue even after a power off. Going either in switch edge mode and closing cast or during the game casting a ball for real (either ball #2 or a second ball after caster's club) will clear this error and not show up in menu or upon boot up. If the error is "activated" then closing the tilt switch will no longer cast the ball. The minute you cleared the error , closing the tilt (at least on ball 1) will launch it again.
To me it definitely feels like a software bug. Some bit must not be set correctly before the first ball is launched or when the very first tilt signal is received. Thankfully I never tilt the machine when I'm about to launch a ball. It should generally not be a problem because if you continue playing that game you will most likely press the cast button to launch a ball eventually , which will clear that issue all together..

Seems to be one of those strange quirks! I'd love to know if it happens on other wpc-89 games with auto shooters, like HS2

3 months later
#4586 1 year ago

Had an issue twice this evening that I've never had before.

First time, I got an extra ball via replay score on bonus. It served the ball into the shooter lane and it made the noise as It you've shot the ball but it stayed in the shooter lane. Pressing the cast button did nothing and the ball stayed in the shooter lane.

Second time, same thing happened but it was ball 3, gave me the ball but I couldn't fire it.

In 100s of games I've never had this happen before then twice in 20minutes

#4588 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Sounds like the shooter lane switch is misadjusted or has a wire falling off. Go in to switch test and check it with a ball.
Does the ball search finally shoot it in to play? That would confirm the ball shooter coil is OK.

I left it to see if it would do a ball search and it didn't, maybe I didn't wait long enough
Next game it worked fine and switch worked in test, but then it did it again on a later game.

I haven't tried it today but will have a look tomorrow

#4589 1 year ago

Did it in a few games tonight. The ball enters the shooter lane, you hear the noise as if the ball has fired but nothing happens.
Jumped straight into switch test and both shooter lane and cast button work. Its like the coil isn't firing for that one instance but it works fine next time

#4592 1 year ago
Quoted from EStroh:

Sounds like a loose/broken wire on the coil. Did you try to activate it while in coil test mode?

Your suspicions were correct. I had considered this at first and checked the connection, then left it assuming the coil was okay because it worked the next game.

It happened again, then wouldn't fire in test or a new game. I lifted the pf and it fired!
Tried the coil test and noticed a spark on one of the coil lugs, it had a black bit and was arcing.
Some solder to bridge the gap has fixed it.

Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Ran into this issue myself. Even the ball search doesn’t fire the shooter lane coil. Kinda peculiar. Can anyone else verify that the ball search will fire the auto plunger?

See above, definitely check the coil lugs, mine somehow was damaged and getting worse but the actual wire and solder looked good.

#4594 1 year ago

My fishy provides a lot of airballs, is this common ? I've had the ball fly up onto the wireforms before!

Another query, can you turn off Big score in video mode but keep extra balls off?
I was watching a JDL pinball stream last week and fish tales was being played. They said they had turned big score off but I have no idea how.
If I can I'd like to turn that off as I find it the only unbalanced thing about fish tales scoring.

Quoted from bakerhillpins:

If the issue was the Coil wire has broken loose from the lug (as apposed to the game wiring) that is not going to fix it long term because the coil wire has a varnish insulation treatment that the solder isn't going to stick to.

You need to clean all the solder off the lug,
pull off the game wiring and old coil wire that's wrapped around the lug,
unwrap one turn on the coil,
clean the varnish off of the wire (burn it off with match and clean). You'll want to do so for at least an inch or back to where the coil wire meets the lug
then wrap the coil wire around the lug and solder everything back up.

I might have explained it badly. It wasn't the coil wire, it looked like the lug was damaged, like it had got bent. I'd need to check it again to be sure.

1 month later
#4670 1 year ago

I noticed the display lags if you get extra ball or big score while the fish is flapping about.

1 month later
#4759 1 year ago

Hey all, on your Fish Tales can you often live catch from plunge/orbit? I try over and over and the ball just bounces. I wonder if I need to adjust the ball guide to get the ball to feed to later in the flipper.

Any thoughts?

1 week later
#4774 1 year ago

I've got a load of Afterglows also. They come with the wires made up now

#4792 1 year ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Moving everything with the mechs still soldered to the wiring is damn near impossible. I always cut the wires to the mechs, and add molex connectors. Once that is done, the harness and smaller switches can be moved without too much trouble. The mechs will have to be hand fit one by one on the new playfield anyway. I haven't done a Fish Tales swap, but I have done 3 others.

I am planning on doing my first ever pf swap on a Diner later in the year (most likely next year) but in preparation I've done just that, I added connectors to all the major mechs and coils to make swapping a tiny bit easier.
Plus it'll make swapping coils and bits easier in future.

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3 weeks later
#4844 1 year ago

I wonder if anyone has ever tested this but I often wonder if having outlanes more open on some games makes it easier to save the ball.

When the lane is more open there's more room to bounce the ball on the post. Also the ball has more room to exit the outlane when it hits the side wall. With mine on the lowest slot the ball can fly into the outlane hit the wall and die without bouncing. With the post in the middle slot or higher I swear it flies out more.

On a similar subject. I jacked my game up to past 7 degrees and waxed it. It plays better and in some ways easier.
Anyone found this?

I wonder if it's because a shallower game creates more left to right movement (think early solid states and EMs) whereas a faster one the ball moves up and down more. The slings on ft are evil and I think with faster up down movement they are less effective at slamming it into the outlanes.

I must admit FT is the hardest game I have but the one I play the most. It's incredibly hard to dial in and every one I've played has played dramatically different.

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