Fish Tales
Williams, 1992You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Lostcause.
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I bought this in a sorry state about 6 years ago, cab was pretty bad but playfield was good.
Had a new cab built which was also sprayed sunset orange inside, also fitted oak rails.
Keeper.
A0566172-78CC-4504-820F-A2C03D7DE280 (resized).jpeg3360DEBA-D1BA-4DAA-A538-BC3BE716AAB8 (resized).jpeg157B5DC9-352F-48AC-8ED3-59170C168CC9 (resized).jpegHad mine about 8 years, Sent cab off had new decals, chrome etc when I bought it.
Inserts not too bad but playfield just wouldn’t polish up so guessing a previous owner took most of the clear coat off so a bit dull and causing it to wear more than it should. Just fitting a playfield protector so should look pretty good again. Fingers crossed.
9D31A28C-3042-4CDC-BAE4-0C7D48D166E2 (resized).jpegQuoted from Neal_W:I like the oak rails!
I think if they did something extreme enough to remove the clear, they would have taken a bunch of paint also.
My TZ was filthy and dull when I got it. The untouched playfield under the plastics would give me a typical reflection of the overhead light but there was no refelection from anywhere the ball had gone. I went over it with Novus 3,2,1 until I got a decent reflection of the overehead light everywhere, using that as my indicator of when each area was done.
Thanks, the oak looks real nice.
Tried exactly what you said but no shine at all, and non ball areas very shiny. Not seen this before and I have polished quite a few things over the years, got the look of it’s been flatted with sand paper in front of flippers Half way to boat ramp if you look at a certain angle. Normal angle looks ok but not shiny.
Just wouldn’t polish up.
Pinball centers plastics and overlays would be my very very last option if all else fails, Colors are way out and plastic edges burnt.
Quite a few here in the UK not happy and as said they don’t care.
Quoted from RA77:OCD PCB looks like nice easy install also looks like a great product.
http://ledocd.com/index.html
Controlled lamp Strobing appears to be worse depending on what LED's are being used. I notice that camera will pick up strobing way more than naked eye.
I am happy with my FT with ablaze, looks fine, and I'm fussy.
Now GI is another story , I think OCD PCB is required for stable GI.
Nice work Lostcause, can you post a video at some stage ?
When you say FT file are you talking about D-6 ROM ?
FT file is a setting you download into the led ocd board with a mini usb cable Via pc downloadable from the website or you can input your own settings if you like.
I bought the board ‘used’ so don’t know what its been set to but it looks ok to me, I used to be a lighting engineer so a bit fussy.
Problem with FT is there is a lot of fast flashing inserts going on. Also I have non ghosting leds in mine and still looks ok with the board, would have been better with standard leds as it would dim a bit more from what I’ve read on the LED OCD website.
Going to see if I have some video of it before the board was put in, but here it is now.
Will have to check out those Ablaze leds as I have a couple of pins that need doing. Left WCS as it dims so much.
Quoted from Mancave:Is the OCD board even required if you have the Rom with the non ghosting patch??
Yes, the rom patch stops ghosting only. The leds will still turn on and off too fast. I had that rom patch already in mine.
Quoted from jawjaw:I recommend the GI OCD board as well to get the full fade effects. I've put the ocd board in three games and have not noticed any difference loading the game specific file. The software does allow you to customize things but I see no need for that. Things look great right out of the box.
I have a GI OCD board but that’s going in CV, lots of dimming of the gi in that game.
I watched FT papa video to see how much the gi dimmed/faded in FT with incandescents but didn’t notice hardly anything, maybe the camera didn't catch it that well?
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:Got about 60 Warm white wedge LEDs but only about 25 Sunlight... think an order’s due!
Sunlight would be sweet, one day I will do a Comet order!
Had my machine for quite a while now, and one thing that bugs me is the casters club target. You just can tell if it’s up without stooping down for a look.
I was wondering if anyone has put one of those milky targets that is lit in there, lighting only when up.
Would be pretty good I think.
Quoted from Inkochnito:It's very easy....
If the lock lights are not blinking, the drop target is up.
If any of the lock light is on solid, you have a ball locked.
Any blinking lock lights is a ball to be locked.
I would like to see the target and not stoop down to check, as we all know the bracket can bend and cause issues.
Do the lock lights know if the target is working?
Still think the target needs to be seen better, some people don’t even realise one is there.
Quoted from BT-ADL:Unfortunately I just had to make the decision to part with FT or TSPP....
Still have FT.
It’s a keeper, never leaving me. Had mine over 10 years.
Looks great, been thinking about fitting one for a while now. No need to bend down to see if it’s actually up!
Quoted from JLay:Having an issue where the ball trough kick out sometimes repeatedly bounces the ball back in the trough. Happens a lot more during multi ball, going to try to adjust the kick out sheet metal guide but anyone else have to deal w this?
Think I remember someone saying it was the kicker arm that needed adjusting when this happened.
Quoted from screaminr:Good looking piece of art , but you can't beat the original , so many Easter eggs and such detail , one of the best ever .
This is true but I have been looking at mine for about 12 years now so put an order in for the limited edition one, I will put my original with the glass on the wall next to other spare translites until I get bored and then can swop them back around. Think I will put one of my spare rods over it while I’m putting it up there
Quoted from brian-allen:Hi everyone, I wanted to share a new Alternate Translite I drew of Fish Tales - reimagining the classic in my style. These are officially licensed from Williams!
These are available as a Translite, Backglass, Art Print, and banner (also have Side Blades to match) here:
https://www.flyland-arcade.com
LIMITED EDITION ACRYLIC BACKGLASS:
• Reverse-printed on a 1/8″ thick translucent acrylic backglass (not a thin Translite).
• Double-layered ink, and double-layered white backing to make the colors really pop.
• Measures 27"x 18 7/8" to fit in a Fish Tails Classic and Remake machine, or a lightbox. Looks beautiful when backlit!
• It comes with a certificate of authenticity signed and numbered by the artist. LIMITED TO ONLY 200 ever.
• Replaces the glass entirely in your backbox.
SIGNED FLEXIBLE TRANSLITE
• 26.5″X18.375″ Tall. Measures to fit in any Fish Tales machine, or a lightbox (90’s WMS/Bally sizing). Looks beautiful when backlit!
• White silk-screened backing produces very high illumination
• Extra-thick, rigid Translite (thicker than most factory Translites, including Stern)
• Signed by the artist, Brian Allen
• Reverse-printed on firm, thick, flexible Translite material, with a silk-screened white backing.
Thanks for all the support on these (and thanks to everyone who has been sending me photos of the translite in their machines!)
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Hi and great work!
I have asked James@pinballbazzar uk to order me the limited edition version which he said I should get early next year, anyway to get it quicker?
I’ve seen a pic with the translite fitted and looks great, does the limited look as good fitted?
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:Anyone else run into issues with Racking themselves with the Fishing Rod shooter or hitting there leg and leaving nasty bruises.
Oh I so hate this one feature of the game so much I'm wondering if anyone has taken this shit off.
Yeah, much pain many times! Also on STTNG and Indy, ouch.
I saw a picture only the other day where someone put foam over there Indy gun so he doesn’t lose a bollock!
Indy (resized).jpegBut if you look at the video the ball get chucked and swings left, it doesn’t come straight out. Mine does that and the part that gets screwed down is bent to the right.
Also it depends how fast it is shooting out, I tried at different speeds. The faster it comes out the more to the left it goes.
So there will be differences between machines and if your incoming voltage, mine is running 244 when should be 230 so a bit more power..
That weird movement is likely due to the position of the camera and the crappy video quality so you don't see when it actually exits the ramp. It makes a sharp left and drops off to the left (because the right leg extends out) because it's falling off of the longer right rail.
It definitely looked like it was coming out to the left more like mine.
Quoted from Paseb:Anyone has the count on bulbs, wedge, bayonnet and flashers
Gi, insert and backbox
Want to make my order at comet.
Thx
If you register with PC you can download a free map of what you are after, you can get most this way 
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/noflix-pinball-leds/placement-specifications/3219/noflix-at-fish-tales
So who else can launch the first ball only with just one tilt, 3 out of 3 pins tested in the UK do this and have no issues.
Apparently it shouldn't do this, I have checked my switch matrix with various situations and no issues found.
Start game, don’t launch but make tilt bob contact. See what happens.
It launches the ball and I get a switch caster 31 error which disappears quickly in ball 1 without touching the caster button.
Quoted from screaminr:Does anyone know where /what , the switch is that makes the boat running sound ( number 26 in the sound test )
I think mine is gapped to close , the slightest vibration will set it off and give points .
Don’t know but put it in switch test and bang the machine and see what appears. That should tell you.
Quoted from screaminr:I gave that to go , it's a bit temperamental and nothing showed up .
Ahh annoying, sorry I don’t know what triggers the sound.
Quoted from bakerhillpins:If this is something that only happens on the 1st ball it may be on purpose to help with players who are unfamiliar with pinball. The thinking might be along the lines of getting the person playing to note the ball in the launch lane and the button on the reel handle. So that the 2nd ball is recognized where the 1st wasn’t.
Yes maybe, people might shake the machine trying to get the ball to move. Even lifting the front up to get the ball to roll up the launch lane when you have a button to push. Maybe even if the launch button is not making but it only works on ball 1.
Anyone with a button push plunge should try this and I bet tilt launches on ball one.
Someone must know why surely?
Quoted from Roamin:If it's not a bug , then how do you explain that after you tilt the game on ball 1 and it is cast into play, and you drain the ball, tilting ball #2 doesn't cast it ? Tilting will no longer cast the ball until you use the cast switch.. By your logic , the player starting a game with a flakey switch gets to play ball 1 , but he never gets to play ball 2. It will sit there until the machine completely tilts and then get shot out.. There's no way to continue playing .. Wouldn't that get them ever more mad at the machine? The only real solution is to either activate the option to use "flipper plunger" or "outlane autocast" options to ensure that if the cast button doesn't work , game will keep playing and it will eventually register a real switch 31 error.
It can’t be a bug because it does the same thing in my AFM and even MMR. Would love to know why.
Quoted from Paseb:Yes the orbit switch, my friend told me about it when installing my protector. Very bad.
Put a protector on mine and wasn’t a problem, just had to adjust the pop switches and all was good.
Although I did have to shave a bit off the protector on the bottom left by the apron to get it to sit fiat.
Anyone else ordered a new playfield from CPR? I restored mine (cab etc) when they stopped making them so have been waiting a long time for this!
Thing I noticed with the latest CPR run is that the sunset fade is not as orange as mine, the trees are much darker green more smoothed not jagged and the words ‘old fisherman never…’ is not perfect. Probably other things but those stuck out for me, didn’t want the Mirco version as a friend had issues with his clear pooling.
My new CPR playfields arrived today after waiting years for them to do them again.
Be interested to see what people think.
00030D46-CBF7-42B2-A008-FF098BD30505 (resized).jpeg57D18E86-68CF-4C5D-8FC0-367850F08A86 (resized).jpeg6065E475-EAD2-42BC-AAFA-CEEC09DD5050 (resized).jpeg6FD02C25-E954-4D5F-AFC7-02F086A2FB7A (resized).jpeg73594A0F-E6D0-4187-BBAE-D1DD1490D8DF (resized).jpeg8BC54C43-7718-456C-BD1C-C02BBE40BA4C (resized).jpegEDB0E33D-D983-473F-AC32-9149A8E46309 (resized).jpegEFC28ED7-B47E-42CC-A644-3A367F2B7203 (resized).jpegF016B9E2-17B4-4EB4-B549-1D56AFB5D34F (resized).jpegQuoted from Mancave:Has that been done with their new digital printing or the original screen prints??
I’m guessing digital as they don’t mention screen printing, and it looks digital.
Quoted from Neal_W:Looks like bad screen printing with the black and white letters. Was there any discount? I would contact them and let them know they got problems, and see what their story is.
The letters E S B on the tacklebox are just blobs.
Full price and some with duties and postage.
Quoted from JLay:Yeah I think it looks pretty rough, I would prefer a worn original over that, all the letters are so blurry and and black outlines feel super heavy. An acceptable option if your PF is completely toast I suppose. Was it graded at all? I don't think that should meet the gold or silver level...
No grading on these as digital print I think, they did that with silk screened playfields.
The blacks are not crisp (bit of echo effect) the face looks blurry for some reason, the green lines on the shirt are wrong (not solid), scuba diver blacks are off so face looks blurry and black outline on hands too thick which is what looks like an issue in other areas. My original looks so crisp and clear compared, night and day difference. Not what I was expecting from CPR.
I will contact CPR, just wanted some other opinions before I contacted them.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:I'll also add this. I've done swaps with both CPR and Mirco. The Mirco is a superior product. Finish was like glass, and dimples on the back were almost dead on. The CPR clear had some small imperfections in it and a slight wavy texture in some areas, and the dimples were way out of line.
My friend put a Mirco playfield in his FT after letting it sit for a while, there was pooling under all the posts. Looked terrible.
The clear on this one is good, flat and smooth although the inserts feel sunken a tiny bit. Passed the finger nail test even though they say don’t use it for about 45 days.
I have sent CPR a message, maybe it was sent by mistake.
Edit: Just noticed that the shooter lane switch slot has not been cut out.
4F9FFF6A-7884-4DB9-885B-0F1F1CFA0D27 (resized).jpegJust an update on the playfield, CPR have got back to me and acknowledged there was an issue with the printing. Basically it was set down wrong so the print doubled up on parts which is why it’s not clear.
Offered some money or exchange for another, so going to exchange.
Shame this happened but good they are going to resolve this quickly and explained what happened.
Quoted from kruzman:I really recommend you let a new pf sit for 4 months at least before installing. I know you want to do it now, but the wood and the clear are both going to shrink, and in my case I would rather make the decision of if the pf is good enough before installing, rather than when you are done.
Most new pfs look VERY different after sitting for around 4 months.
Just a suggestion.
Thanks for the advice, I have read quite a bit in your thread so I know you know your stuff and appreciate the advice. Cheers.
Just finished making a rotisserie but need to make another, got plenty of time now!
What are the best climate conditions to cure the playfield in? I keep my pinroom about 55% humidity and 62f.
Quoted from kruzman:I think if you are going to keep the game in the game room, I would put it against the wall in that room. Outside of the box. 2 things cause warpage. Gravity and drying out. sometimes pfs will contort when they dry because the layers of plys are not all the same and have the same strength. So if one ply that goes horizontal has a big chunk of bark in it (sometimes they are the size of 1/4 of the pf) the other opposing plys will be stronger.
Long story short... check it every couple weeks and adjust how you have it placed on the wall to counteract any warp. I do mine up and down as well as on their side, but always as close to up and down, as I can without it falling.
Obviously air circulation will help and speed it up.
FT is a great game to have restored. I love it! mark ritchie made some of the best games
Thanks for the tips, very helpful. I restored it as good as I could about 10 years ago as I love fishing, it was just the playfield that was letting it down.
Shooter lane looks like someone has done some repairs on it, not too much wear on the inserts but it is warped a bit. I used to think it was the mylar that runs down from the caster club that made the ball swerve sdtm but later found the playfield is warped. Adjusted the level so it wasn’t so bad as my son would go crazy when that happened lol
I ended up putting a playfield protector on with decals over the fish which actually looked pretty good except the blue one was dark blue as the set came free when I bought the pin, I was drinking when I put those on 
051AC997-91FD-4A4C-86AE-15A8752FFDD7 (resized).jpegQuoted from Coyote:Did they say they were going to friggin' cut the shooter-lane switch? I believe that would be a rather big necessity..
They are sending me out another playfield and the batch is getting cnc’d as it looks like that slot was missed. At least nobody else will get that “Oh no” feeling.
Quoted from daveyvandy:Do me a favor and hit the 'notify me when in stock' button so that they produce more of these. I'm waiting for the LED OCD insert boards...
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/led-ocd-boards?variant=12493661700140
Stumblor does the Afterglow boards, I swapped the OCD board on mine for one after comparing them. Must have used nearly 20 Afterglow boards now.
Quoted from Paseb:Is it me or i cant find them for sale?
https://stumblorpinball.com/collections
Send him a message, he does batches from time to time. They are very popular over here.
They always sell out when he does a batch.
Once my game is back together I need to try and get a decent score, my best is just under 800mil and I have owned it for over 10 years.
My excuse is the warped playfield that causes sdtm although I recently levelled it so it wasn’t so bad.
2 bill is an amazing score!
Going to try and move over all the wiring etc in one lump as nothing needs doing as all clean and good, anyone done that on this game?
Is it even doable?
I have made 2 rotisseries so will be side by side.
9188B07A-F2BB-4177-8658-09A3E1472F89 (resized).jpegFA5F41DD-52E3-47E9-B77D-C557DDCD5185 (resized).jpegDD51A117-F07B-4FA5-B265-650313B0CDCA (resized).jpegQuoted from CoolCatPinball:Moving everything with the mechs still soldered to the wiring is damn near impossible. I always cut the wires to the mechs, and add molex connectors. Once that is done, the harness and smaller switches can be moved without too much trouble. The mechs will have to be hand fit one by one on the new playfield anyway. I haven't done a Fish Tales swap, but I have done 3 others.
Yes was wondering about the mechs and how they will get fitted, I’m in no hurry but if there is a shortcut that works I’m in lol
I will have a look and decide when they are side by side.
Thanks will take that advice on board as this is my first and want to enjoy it.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Here's a couple pics of my Elvira playfield underside as I'm installing the cleaned up mechs. You can see where I've added the plugs on all the wiring. Plus it makes it easy to remove a single assembly if needed later on.
[quoted image][quoted image]
That looks very tidy, nice work.
Quoted from bakerhillpins:I've not done this myself but I recall it being talked about. I believe the process involved sliding a heavy sheet of cardboard or say a slightly oversized cut of 1/4" plywood down the playfield under the components that have been removed. Think of slowly pulling a shade down over a window. You'd slide it down a little at a time removing components as they meet the leading edge of the sheet. Then when all is unattached you'd lift up on the ply and move it to the other pf. slowly backing it out as you replaced the components.
I'd assume you'd need a really good dimple template and/or you'd set a single screw for each of the mechs and then use the rotisserie to spin and set/adjust final position of them after everything else is pinned down.
Yes I read something like that too, I have plenty of space. I will look to see if it can be done when they are on the rotisserie’s, one screw at at time is a good idea to fix the mechs and check for position. What can go wrong lol
Quoted from guitarded:I remove the mechs and label their wires. Then I do the same for GI and Control Lamp mains.
Then I remove all fasteners and lay a PF sized piece of 2 x 4 Welded Box Fencing over the top and Zip Tie the entire harness to it.
Then Transfer. Works a charm on the Bally PF swaps I have done.
Great idea.
Quoted from guitarded:Anyone know of a source for the Reel Motor?
Mine has given up the ghost.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=14-7967
Cheaper in the UK though for a change!
https://www.pinball.co.uk/game-specific-parts/hurricane/fish-tales-reel-motor-gearbox-14-7967/
Quoted from TheOnlyest:If only they would ship their shit to the US!
‘Shit’ could be right as their stuff is hit and miss and I know from experience along with others, I would only use them as a last resort.
Those decals look ok.
Quoted from Golgotha:What's a fish with no weeds. LOL
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What’s a fisherman without weed 
Quoted from screaminr:Thanks mate , good to know .
Looking at the picture it doesn't appear to be broken .
I spent a good half hour looking for it , it sucks when the machine eats bits
[quoted image]
Tie a magnet to a piece of string and see if you can catch anything lol
Should just clip back on, just give it a squeeze so it sits on a bit tighter.
It’s in there somewhere
Quoted from zerbam:LOOKING FOR SOMTHING LIKE THIS
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-t-nut-map#post-5662961
I just looked up the parts list and ordered them, not done mine yet so can’t confirm the list is correct.
Good luck.
Quoted from screaminr:Call me crazy but I wouldn't swap my Fish Tales for a Godzilla LE
No way I would either!
251A37AF-54AF-4684-9F95-03AF74F0666A.gifQuoted from Pinkitten:Added a single Comet lamp with a 4-led bulb to add light on the boat ramp, and even one lamp made a big difference. If you look closely on mine, the target decal on the captive ball target is a pic of my dad fishing on the lake, holding up a bass. He passed away in 2019, but he loved fishing. So he’s always in the boat on FT now.
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Man that’s a great idea and sorry to hear he passed away, I love fishing. Look at the number plate on my avatar on my van, used to do a lot of carp fishing.
I’m going to do that when I fit my new playfield, I have had mine for years and will be passing it on to my kids who have grown up with it.
New playfield has been under there for a year and good to go now, just need the enthusiasm to start.
A74E70DA-D8E6-45F0-945B-33D31E969480 (resized).jpegQuoted from Pinkitten:That’s going to rock. Do you have a rotisserie? I’ve heard many times that FT is one of the best pins to do a playfield swap. Not terrible at all. Mine had the playfields resurfaced and re-cleared when I bought it. It’s awesome! I finished the cabinet and powder coated the rails. What a classic game.
Yes I have made 2 rotisseries to make the swap as easy as possible, good to know it’s an easier one to do.
I had a high end restore uk style done shortly after I first bought it, the playfield wasn’t too bad but found out later it is warped which made the ball roll weird and sdtm. So as soon as CPR started doing them again I grabbed one.
It’s a classic!
The sun shines under the hood on mine
6BC3B670-7D92-4B25-A05E-F2C73DDF8762 (resized).pngQuoted from dfester007:Can anyone help me ID the correct punchdown tool for this connector on the LED PCB? Not sure why I am struggling with this so much. I barrowed this picture from another PS post... just to be able to point at the connector of interest.
[quoted image]
Like this one which is pricey https://www.pinball.co.uk/tools/molex-idc-tool-0-156/, you can get cheap plastic versions. You might be able to use a screwdriver if you are careful.
Quoted from Mancave:These are pricey BUT are the absolute BEST tool to have and will last a lifetime, also handy to have the smaller .100 version if you have earlier SS machines too. I've owned the cheaper punch in type in and they are just a fiddly PITA. Some connectors in the 90's DMD era also use the smaller connector as well but generally speaking are the larger type.
https://www.pinballlife.com/pancon-156-idc-termination-tool.html
Pancon's ROCK!!!
Now that’s a nice one, no slipping and cutting yourself!
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Tacoma, WA