(Topic ID: 57782)

Fish Tales - Casters Club!!

By shacklersrevenge

10 years ago


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  • 5,596 posts
  • 572 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by JOESCHALL
  • Topic is favorited by 228 Pinsiders

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#3937 2 years ago

The prop bar sucks anyway so you're not missing anything. I never use that "feature".

4 weeks later
#3981 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Hi, fellow casters! I finally finished my FT makeover with Radcals. They look fantastic I think. Definitely a fair amount of work! Love this game.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looking great!

3 weeks later
#4052 2 years ago
Quoted from lemmings418:

HA! We are refreshing our basement with new flooring, wiring and a drop ceiling. My four pins are covered with the heads down.
We had to move them around to give the workers access to different areas.
Want to guess which one is right by my office, with a narrow walkway to get by.
Yup, the FT.
Three bruises and counting.

If I owned a FT I would probably remove the handle from the game and wire in a standard launch button instead (assuming the hole in the cabinet behind the handle is of standard size). It's basically just a simple switch in that handle anyway.

I would of course keep the handle so It could be reversed to original the day I wanted to sell the game.

#4085 2 years ago

Here's is mine:

Oops, forgot I don't own one...yet

2 months later
#4386 2 years ago
Quoted from pin-pimp:

I’ve got 8 left side full length rod plastics done. $115 shipped.
[quoted image]

Looking good. Do you have the decals too?

2 weeks later
#4453 2 years ago
Quoted from onemilemore:

I'm realizing now I really love the feel and personality of the 90s pins, even if they aren't as deep, so I'm not too worried.

This is exactly the reason I own eight 90s B/W games and zero pins from after 1999. The classic 90s are simply pure fun, easy to understand and even my non-pinball friends that visit want to try them out.

1 month later
#4631 1 year ago
Quoted from zerbam:

can anyone order this for me from pinball center and ship to me?
[quoted image]

Just a word of caution. Buying pinball centers decals (and pf plastics) is a lottery. Some decals are close to the original colors while other decals are way way off. I've been ok with some I bought and refused to use other items because of colors being totally wrong.

I know sometimes they are the only source of this stuff and it can be good, but don't expect wonders. I gladly buy all other things from them (assemblies, screws, coils and so on) but apparently color matching isn't their strong side.

1 month later
#4727 1 year ago

My launcher metal handle is a bit worn so I'm considering having a professional repaint and coat it. I haven't decided on staying with a similar color or trying something new, for example silver/chrome instead.

If anyone have repainted it in a different color I would be happy to see some pictures, preferably mounted in the cab so I can see how it matches the rest of the game.

3 weeks later
#4775 1 year ago

When launching a ball (and passing the spinner down to the flippers) the spinner always rotates but seem to activate a speaker sound about 25% of the time. When playing a game and passing it or in test mode it seem to work/sound 100% of the time.

I was thinking it probably 'works" all the time but when launching a ball other sound gets higher priority to play so the spinner sound isn't played then.

It's not a problem but I'm curious if this is a common thing or only on my game (and if not common, what could be done about it),

#4777 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Yup, you only get the spinner sound occasionally or just a at the end of the spin when plunging.

Great, thanks for the confirmation of my suspicion. Now I can feel my FT restoration is 100% done

1 month later
#4849 1 year ago
Quoted from Roamin:

I did follow the wires and they aren't loose anywhere. I guess my kind was elsewhere earlier because I know the switches work in a matrix, which is why I said earlier that no other switches are acting up, but for a moment trying to think too far I forgot that it's a matrix and all switches would be affected..
So again thinking even further I wonder if there's a problem with the leaf switch and its contact? Maybe it isn't properly soldered or pressed in the leaf switch properly.. Right now it isn't acting up so nothing I can test.. I'll report when I find the culprit. Thanks for reminding me that it's not the board the issue. I'll double check the wiring once more but visually I saw nothing at all!

Have you cleaned the pop bumper switch contact points? If you are usin the original switch it might be dirty and have bad/wonky contact. Drag a folded piece of white paper though the switch while pressing slightly on the contact points, repeat until you don't get any trail of dirt on the paper.

1 week later
#4865 1 year ago

Oh no, it's #lure-switch gate!

3 weeks later
#4888 1 year ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

...
As said the switch in the gun gives continuity on my DMM and when button is pushed it stops beeping.

I could be wrong here but shouldn't the launch button be normally closed (no continuity) and open (continuity) while pressing it down?

1 month later
#4912 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I had a moment of sheer terror today. We had an upstairs bath leak water down into the basement ceiling. I have 13 pins downstairs. My restored FT was the game positioned under the leak. Not a huge leak, just a trickle, but enough to start dripping all over the invisiglass. I discovered it only hours later, when I noticed water drops on the glass, and one leg had water around it. See pic below. The water was minimal, pooling in a slider. Luckily, Fish Tales has noise-reducing felt tape on the edges of the glass. The water rolled down the glass and had just enough left/right tilt to dribble down the leg. No water in the cab. No water on the playfield. Only one damp powder coated leg, and some water stains on the glass. I can’t believe how lucky I was!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That's a very realistic fish tales, it even uses real water

#4915 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

I should move around my pins so my faves are not under the kitchen plumbing.

Or below the toilet.

2 weeks later
#4923 1 year ago
Quoted from Joker19:

Hey all.
Anyone that replaced the plastic ramp might be able to help me.
There are rivets that will need to be replaced for the switch on each sides.
What tool did you use to remove those rivets?
And what tool did you use to re rivet the new ramp to that switch?
Thanks.

Use a drill to remove the old rivets. If you don't care about the old ramp then just go ahead and drill. Otherwise be a bit careful not to crack/damage the old ramp.

To rivet the new ramp either buy a proper rivet press (a bit overkill if this is the only riveting you are going to do in the near future) or a hand rollover punch tool. The second one is enough for this job.

1 week later
#4954 1 year ago
Quoted from Golgotha:

More upgrades added today.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks nice. I'm interested in buying something similar, do you know the model scale so I don't end up buying something that doesn't fit or is too small.

Also, it looks like you glued it onto the playfield plastic or am I wrong?

#4957 1 year ago
Quoted from data_eastside:

The coil on my caster's club drop target is not making the target go down. It's causing some issues with gameplay. When I test the solenoid I just hear a faint clicking. I read that the small yellow coil magnetizes something that causes the target to go down? What exactly is it supposed to magnetize? Picture of the coils is attached- does anything look amiss?
[quoted image]

There should be a metal arm that the small coil pulls in that then resets the standup target. You are missing that arm completely. Also the metal assembly the small coil is fastened to is missing the central tab too (a very common issue)

Check the manual for a picture of the whole drop down target assembly and all part numbers.

Edit:
Screenshot_20221206_124048_Drive (resized).jpgScreenshot_20221206_124048_Drive (resized).jpg
You are missing parts 13, 23, 25, 27 and your 26 is damaged. There might be other parts missing too, your picture doesn't show the whole assembly.

#4961 1 year ago
Quoted from mtopol01:

Turns out the wire guide for the ball feed had flipped backwards and wasn't letting the balls through! Flipped the wire guide around and we're back in business! Dumb on my part.

Classic mistake, don't ask how I know

1 month later
#5089 1 year ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Blue looks nice but i think i prefer the green one

I agree. Blue looks great outside the game but obstructs the view too much ingame. Green is more discreet but still color.

1 month later
#5165 1 year ago

I just checked ipdb and the L6 ROM still isn't there, anyone know the reasoning behind this? Perhaps some problem with it?

I'm curious as I'm considering installing it to my game.

11 months later
#5504 87 days ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Lightning flippers are 1/8" shorter than a standard flipper. That makes the center drain gap a total of 1/4" wider. Lightning flippers also make the game faster, and shots snappier. I don't know what the game was originally designed for and have read several arguments for both cases. But, what is certain is that the game was built and shipped with Lightning flippers. So for me, the Lightning flippers are the only way to go. Personally, I think the game plays too easy with standard flippers.

I seem to recall reading long ago that the game initially had normal flippers but operators in Europe (specifically Germany I think) wanted lightning flippers on them. I have no idea If this is correct or not.

3 weeks later
#5542 60 days ago
Quoted from Scroat:

I’ve tried to replace the bulbs in the light bar inside the topper bubble. All the leds ive tried are too fat to fit the sockets. This is the first time in 10 Pinball LED swaps that I’ve encountered this issue. I don’t absolutely have to have LEDs in there but just wondering what people have done?

I'm not sure but I think the topper uses some "special" voltage lamps, probably with slightly different size too.

Also, I think I've read that LEDs produce an inferior waterfall effect on the topper foil, ie not as the normal lightbulbs does.

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