Long Valley, NJ
Just picked up one yesterday.
Need assistance with Comet LED selection
Planning on using the following...
Backbox - 2smd warm white frosted
Inserts - 1smd clear color matched
What is the best recommendation for GI?
Thanks
(Topic ID: 57782)
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Fish Tales
Williams, 1992
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Quoted from Cmjb13:Just picked up one yesterday.
Need assistance with Comet LED selection
Backbox - 2smd warm white frosted
Inserts - 1smd clear color matched
What is the best recommendation for GI?
Thanks
Quoted from jawjaw:I would put 1smd in backbox. There are a ton of bulbs there and it gets way bright. I actually removed some bulbs in mine because it was so bright.
1smd color match is good choice for inserts imo. Use warm white for yellow and orange inserts, though. I sometimes use 2smd for large inserts and flex head bulbs for sockets mounted sideways or at angle.
I use 2smd frosted for gi. It's a personal preference but I like sunlight. Looks more natural than cool white and not as yellow as warm.
I also highly recommend ocd boards. It fixed the bad ghosting on my game and allows you to run fade effects.
Thanks. How many SMD would you use for the flashers under the playfield?
Also, under the playfield is a hole that looks like it had a light in it at some point because I can see the screw hole above it. Can anyone check theirs to see if I’m missing something or it’s normal not to have anything there?
28C1FB02-BF1E-4D28-AC93-DB2C743A6828 (resized).jpeg
All of the lower GI playfield lights are out,
I see a very slight chip on the J121 connector. Nothing burnt.
J120 is a different story. I don’t know what the hell happened here. What does J120 control?
08D36F82-F188-444C-B3A3-D17F4AEDFD7B (resized).jpegE3E658B5-3003-4795-A09A-875BF371B42E (resized).jpegCan anyone kindly tell me where this plastic is installed?
https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/pinballmachines/fish-tales-back-panel-plastic-31-1676a-3.html
Thank you
Quoted from nascarrey:Mabey here? [quoted image]
Thank you kindly
Quoted from northerndude:Your missing your metal rails for the plastic to affix to
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Was a long day. Thank you.
Quoted from Neal_W:Double rubbers get installed there. It's hard to see once assembled. Here a few pics.
Of coarse, that clear plastic should not be laying on the rubber. Maybe install a washer so it stays up in place.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Thanks. I had wondered where that remaining rubber from the kit went to.
I’m trying to reconnect the cables for the top left boat (#3) and the rail going to the reel (#4)
I see (2) connections (#1) Top & (#2) Bottom.
Can someone please confirm which cable goes to the boat and which one goes to the reel rail?
Many thanks in advance
3FB80CD1-A5CF-4CE3-9BDC-BED6349C117F (resized).jpeg
Quoted from fiberdude120:thats what I was thinking
Thank you
1 week later
So I sent my boards out for the repair of J120 & J121 as well as installation of NVRAM.
I did new connectors for J120 & J121
Hooked everything back up
Playfield and backbox were lit for about 5 seconds before the whole machine turned off.
I get no power now and nothing on the MPU LED’s. The outlet that the machine is plugged into is good.
Quoted from LTG:Miss any connectors ? Any connectors in the wrong spot or facing the wrong way ? Ribbon cables in the right spots red stripe pin one each end and not off by a row ?
LTG : )
I took a look at the main fuse in the power box inside the cabinet. It was fried, so I replaced it with a spare that I had. Machine powered on for about 20 seconds (no display on dmd) and it powered off again. Fuse I replaced is fried again
Quoted from LTG:If repair job was good. Something ain't hooked up right.
LTG : )
Making progress...
It looks like a previous owner never put the security pin in the J101 connector. I indeed had it on backwards. So I put it in the correct way, replaced the main power fuse and now the machine stays on.
However, nothing shows on the dmd display ( ribbon cable and connectors are installed correctly). I hear a light crackling sound coming from the speakers and I keep hearing the “bong” startup sound about every 15 seconds. It will not let me start a game
Quoted from LTG:Pull and check all your fuses.
Hopefully J101 mishap didn't hurt the board. Check with your board repair guy.
LTG : )
I thought I hit “Send post” on my previous update, but obviously did not. I want to thank everyone for their help.
The 2 ribbon cables on the top of the MPU board were off by a pin. I reseated them and the DMD now appears.
The light board with the 4 fish had some lights out. Taking the connector off, the pins were very loose. I resoldered the pins and it’s now working properly.
Tried starting a game, but the start button didn’t work. Running a test, both the start button and cast switches don’t work. Going into test menu shows a slew of ground short messages likely related to the MPU. I’ll have to send that back to get fixed.
The only other issue I’m seeing at this point is the lower half of the GI lights are out as well as the 3 bumper posts lights. I thought the replacement of J120 & J121 would have fixed the playfield lights as they were not working prior to the purchase. I didn’t see any loose wires breaking the chain under the playfield.
Quoted from LTG:Did you replace the connectors too ? Pins on the board are only half the battle.
Glad you are gaining ground on this.
LTG : )
Yes I should have stated that both connectors for J120 & J121 were also replaced using trifurcon pins. I’m thinking maybe I didn’t crimp one of those pins correctly?
I originally thought the playfield lights issue was due to J120 & J121 on the power driver board being fried to a crisp. I was counting on that resolving the problem, but alas.
Quoted from LTG:Easy to check. First I'd check wire colors with Pinwiki - https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems
Then with a meter set to AC see where you have power going out and where you don't. I'd also check the AC to the driver board for your GI - no power in means no power out.
LTG : )
The string of lights that are out are colored yellow
On J121, tested
Pin 3 - Yellow
Pin 9 - White/Yellow
Multimeter shows 6 volts so it appears to be an issue “off board". I was hoping it would be a simple issue like a fuse.
The link shows “off board” issues as either “All lamps blown” (not likely) or “Open in GI wiring” (basically a break in the chain)
It states “Use your DMM to check continuity between the lamp socket and the appropriate wire/pin at J120/J121”
So basically multimeter connected on one end to J121 pin 3 (yellow) and the other to each of the yellow cable on each lamp socket?
Quoted from LTG:I'd turn game off and check continuity of each wire from connector to sockets. Try and locate the break.
LTG : )
Game is off and multimeter set to continuity
I put one probe on one leg and one probe on the other of a bayonet bottom that’s not lighting in the GI string. I get nothing. Should I get some sort of reading?
Quoted from LTG:Yes. Continuity. Sounds like a break from connector to lamp socket.
LTG : )
I took another pass at this as maybe I thought I wasn’t connecting to the probes well enough
I’m getting readings of 1618 for continuity on both the lower left and lower right GI lamps that will not light.
So this means that the sockets are getting power?
Quoted from LTG:Turn the game on and check.
LTG : )
The MPU board has been removed and shipped to be repaired again.
I powered the machine and no lights anywhere, but I’d expect that.
I wouldn’t have expected the lights to work anyways as I did nothing but test continuity and check to see if any wires had fallen off and broken the chain
Quoted from Cmjb13:The MPU board has been removed and shipped to be repaired again.
I powered the machine and no lights anywhere, but I’d expect that.
I wouldn’t have expected the lights to work anyways as I did nothing but test continuity and checking to see if any wires got loose in the chain.
Quoted from t2000:I recently changed my translight out to the backglass from CPR - looks amazing! I took this picture of the led placement when I used the translight. I had to go to all frosted white on the backglass as this configuration was not good and the blues were in particular too strong, but looked really good on the standard translight. 1 of the reds is a flex led targeting the red boat motor.
[quoted image]
I had read reviews that the best way to go in the backbox was all frosted white and that’s what I did. I was never a fan of modding machines (whether adding lights or playfield toys) from the way they came from the factory.
Those guys built the machine and would know best. Who am I to say I could do something better?
2 weeks later
Question about flippers.
The fish tales I bought has the standard flippers which is what came from the factory. Some say the standard flippers make the game too easy.
From what I’ve read, a European distributor convinced Williams to use shorter flippers which some say makes the game harder.
I try to keep everything as original as possible, so I guess leave the standard flippers alone?
I have a replacement fish dome and I was able to salvage the foil sheet from the old dome.
Can anyone recommend the best adhesive to reinstall? Rubber cement, Super Glue???
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:My understanding was that lightning flippers were original on Fish Tales, not standard size.
I checked the manual and it states flippers are standard (non-lightning)
Quoted from LTG:Lightening flippers were installed on Fish Tales and Bram Stoker Dracula, to shorten ball times to help op's earnings.
Manuals weren't changed.
LTG : )
From what I’ve read in old threads, the game was designed with standard flippers, converted to lightning before or slightly after rollout based on a op request, but went back to standard because people hated them.
1 month later
Just had some machine work done to get my game up and running (kudos to Rich Corbo)
This was installed on the bottom of the cabinet.
Any idea what this used to do? Maybe something for overseas models?
A7220549-2C47-416B-AEEA-D649513F7063 (resized).jpegAEF6382C-99AC-4F13-BAF2-89C71F0AEFEC (resized).jpegDMD is showing dots and some distortion when text scrolls.
Swapping DMD’s has same problem. All ribbon cables replaced and problem still exists
Any ideas?
Quoted from Mancave:Normally when i see something like this on a dmd i would suspect the data cable first and foremost but you mention you have replaced the data cable/s (with new ones??) and specifically the one between the dmd and the display board? Next up i would suspect the dmd itself but it doesn't look like the usual line out scenario you would expect with a dmd on it's way out. Is there any rust on the legs of the game rom chip or corruption in the socket? Seems that if the dmd and the data cables are both fine then i can't think of anything else that would cause this issue other than corrupt game rom or some kind of issue with the display board perhaps??
All new ribbon cables. I’ll have to take a look at the game rom chip and give it a good tap
Quoted from Mtg381:Give the socketed items in this pic a good tap to see if it helps your DMD. I had a similar issue on CFTBL(albeit with color DMD) and it’s good as new.
[quoted image]
Stupid question, but should they be tapped with the game on?
I removed and reseated both chips circled in yellow. Same dots and distortion. So I guess a new game ROM is in order?
I’m a bit confused on all the different rom versions. Would this suffice?
ebay.com link: itm EPROM/232367693910?hash=item361a31a056:g:lIkAAOSwaeRZNzoL
Or can someone recommend a reputable source?
My machine has NVRAM and the DMD problem existed with the old batteries
Quoted from northerndude:MAtts basement good for roms.
Any board damage? Regarding the distortion
No board damage. Boards serviced by Chris hibler.
I’ll order a replacement ROM and see if that fixes the issue
I see very little about the D-6 rom version installed on the board
Replaced existing ROM D-6 with a new one.
Dots and distortion still exists. It was worth a try.
I noticed that my Hot shots basketball had a rottendog dmd board installed. I swapped it into the Fish Tales and the dots and distortion were gone.
I’ll either get the board repaired or buy a new replacement.
The rightmost pop bumper light keeps going in and out. I took the cap off and slightly moved the socket from side to side and the light keeps going in and out. The light also will also sometimes go in and out during gameplay when it’s bumper is hit.
Any ideas on how I can make it a bit more stable without having to replace the socket entirely?
Quoted from yzfguy:While you have it apart..... This illuminated speaker panel looks pretty cool
[quoted image]
It looks very nice, but I cannot justify $400 for color,
Plus, I like to keep the machine as close to factory original as possible
Quoted from Cmjb13:It looks very nice, but I cannot justify $400 for color.
Plus, I like to keep the machine as close to factory original as possible
Quoted from Mancave:Hot Shots (Premier/Gotleib) from 89' or Hot Shotz (Bally/Midway) 85'?? either way how was that board compatible?? I must be missing something here sorry
Hot shot basketball (1994)
Quoted from jawjaw:It's not just color. Colordmd does not use the problematic high voltage circuits that dmd requires. Some dmd's have a loud humming/buzzing sound which I find annoying. Colordmd fixes all those issues and I like to think more reliable in the long term. Cost is high but reasonable if you consider having to get board work done and cost of new dmd. Plus, colordmd retains it's value pretty well and can be moved to another game. I'm kind of a purist myself but some things are just worth upgrading.
I had dots on my DMD and as a test I swapped in my Rottendog DMD controller board from my Hot Shots Basketball. No more dots, so this confirmed the Fish Tales board had an issue.
So rather than get the original controller board fixed which would possibly fail again, and didn’t want to get another Rottendog board, I bought a DMDlux.
So if I ever want to upgrade to color, I’m half way there.
Quoted from Cmjb13:I had dots on my DMD and as a test I swapped in my Rottendog DMD controller board from my Hot Shots Basketball. No more dots, so the Fish Tales board had an issue
So rather than get the original controller board fixed which would possibly fail again, and didn’t want to get another Rottendog board, I bought a DMDlux.
So if I ever want to upgrade to color, I’m half way there.
Quoted from firebrand007:By the way, has anyone ever done a regular size version of the yellow lightning flippers ? I like their aesthetics but wouldn't change to shorter flippers [quoted image][quoted image]
This game is challenging enough with regular flippers. Glad I didn’t replace them with the lightning ones.
1 week later
Quoted from Ive:Sometimes just a different lamp can help.
Are these the #555 black socket type holder ?....I can't remember. If so try pinching the metal contact tabs together with small pliers. Can sometimes help.
A tip that may help others.... I put a small dab of clear silicone caulk on the light holder legs inside the pop bumper and it’s no longer flickering.
3 weeks later
Something I noticed and wondering if anyone else has seen this...
If I power on the machine and leave it alone, the backbox lights (LED) start to flicker.
Is that due to the LED’s? Never noticed this before
Quoted from Neal_W:After a while the GI dimming starts and LEDs can flicker. Turn off the GI dimming in the settings.
Thank you kindly
2 months later
Quoted from Peruman:New Fish Tales owner here. I’m loving the game but I need to shop it out as it has not been cleaned in a long time and the rubbers need to be replaced.
Is there a shop-out video/doc anywhere showing steps to follow to remove everything off the playfield?
Any areas to be careful with as I start the disassembly?
Regards
Peruman
When I shopped my Mousin Around I didn’t label exactly where everything should have gone. As such, I had some difficulty reassembling.
What made it easier shopping the Fish Tales was to take a big piece of cardboard (maybe from a recent delivery) and form it into the shape of the playfield and then tape the plastics on the cardboard to where they should be relative to the playfield. You can also place any screws or bolts through the cardboard so you can keep track of where they go and they won’t fall off. While not perfect, this made the reassembly way easier.
1 year later
Quoted from Pinkitten:I unplug that single molex connector in the backbox too. The flapping fish is a fun gimmick, but it’s a bit noisy in the home sometimes. If I have a pinball night I plug it in. Takes 1 min.
I leave mine plugged in and put several rubber O rings on the plunger and the noise level is definitely reduced
1 week later
Quoted from Golgotha:Cabinet looks great! Don't get me wrong, however in my opinion, A colorDMD upgrade should be done WAY before messing with a topper. The topper is only visual at a glance. Meaning it’s cool and I pimped mine out a little to make it cooler. The colorDMD is INSTANT gratification for the player as well as the watcher. Once you play a Williams DMD game with the color DMD, you will hate the color Orange. For me, it's the FIRST upgrade.
No doubt it’s pretty, but I’m a strong believer in trying to keep a game original as possible as the creators originally intended.
I feel if the creators wanted color, they would have done so.
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