(Topic ID: 57782)

Fish Tales - Casters Club!!

By shacklersrevenge

10 years ago


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  • 5,605 posts
  • 572 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by MagnumChris
  • Topic is favorited by 228 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Bryan_Kelly.
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#1031 7 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Fishtails has one of the best translites in my opinion. Have you seen the 3D ones yet?

Agreed. I LOVE the artwork on the FT translite. Not a big fan of the 3D ones though.

#1033 7 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Have you seen the 3D ones in person?

Yes. I put one in an AFM I did. Just not a big fan.

#1037 7 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Bryan, do you need 3D glasses to get the effect of 3D? Other than it not feeling original, what else did you not like? I've never seen one in person.

No glasses needed. You really need to see these in person. It's a cool effect and there are lots of people who love them. I just don't happen to be one of them.

10 months later
#1335 6 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

What's everyone's opinion on the clear ramp decals? I kind of the like inside decals, but the outside decals seem too prominent and distracting to me. Thinking about taking them off....

Not a fan of either. They draw attention to the ramp, which I think is wrong.

#1340 6 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I took them off. Looks much better now!

Thank you. And don't ever, ever, ever do that again.

1 week later
#1355 6 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

That’s perfect. I’ll try moving the dowel. Thank you.

The cup on the end of the plunger on yours is messed up. It should easily move up and done along the roll pin. If that cup isn't loose, it's going to bind and cause trouble.

#1360 6 years ago
Quoted from Pintucky:

Whenever Byan Kelly speaks . . . it is Gospel . . . a voice from on High. You believe whatever he tells you, for it will be the truth . . . the light . . . and the way!!!

Have you been drinking again, Mike?

3 weeks later
#1420 6 years ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Holy crap does this look cool though, keeping the red off the lockbar, rails doesn't overdo it

And to me, that gun looks terrible.

Stick with something classy. Like black nickel.

IMG_2516 (resized).JPGIMG_2516 (resized).JPG

#1422 6 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

Black nickle looks great, but if it were an either or, I'd rather have the color DMD.
PS: For the record, I have neither.

Oh, I've got that too.

5 months later
#1781 5 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Lcd for Fish tales.

And I prefer the LED in mine.

2 weeks later
#1799 5 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

They really, or someone needs to make these!
Couple hundred would sell like hot salmon with herb butter!
Mark- Freeplay40? Larry, starship fantasy?

I don't know. I've shopped out or restored a good dozen FT's and have never needed this part.

2 months later
#1962 5 years ago
Quoted from mjs2:

Hey all... I just got done tearing down most of the play filed top / cleaning and waxing / and installing 2 new flipper mechanisms. I noticed I do not have rubber on the post entering the casters club and next to the x-tra ball. I looked in the manual and on others photos and noticed multiple solutions. I tried the smallest one I have and it interferes with the x-tra ball target, I've also seen people use a post sleeve here as well, anyone know what is recommended?
Stock photo posted for reference.
Thanks in advance.
[quoted image]

You can get two different sizes of the small bumper rubbers. I forget what they are but you may want to try the smaller of the two.

4 weeks later
#2015 5 years ago

Anyone interested in this stuff? Make me an offer, just don't kick me in the nuts.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-parted-out-ft-parts

#2018 5 years ago
Quoted from northerndude:

The gun and the fishing rod plastic ARE gold. Congrats to whoever got them IF they were missing off your pin. If you bought them to flip, then uggggh.

Nope. The guy was missing his handle. I've seen the pics. No idea what he's doing with the rest of the stuff.

4 weeks later
#2126 5 years ago
Quoted from MrArt2u:

Mine has a prop bar. And the round cutout on the underside of the playfield where it should sit when supported. And the bracket that holds the prop bar secure against the inside of the cabinet when it’s not being used. Maybe some had it? I definitely don’t like using it with such a heavy playfield.

This is the inside of my FT before restoration. You'll notice the blocking is there but no prop rod. If someone had the parts, they could have added them.

FTbody0003 (resized).jpgFTbody0003 (resized).jpg
#2127 5 years ago

Here's the inside of a WH2O. Same thing.

wwinsidebody3 (resized).jpgwwinsidebody3 (resized).jpg
1 month later
#2219 5 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

Which makes me wonder....if you have an original, diamond plate pf, why would you wanna replace it with a PPS remake instead of restoring the one you have?

It all depends on the condition of the one you have. So many of the older playfields are just beat to shit. Lots of insert wear, chipping, etc. Add to that, blown out screw holes where things have been removed and reinstalled numerous times. On the last few restorations I did, I used nothing but new playfields because the originals were just too far gone.

2 months later
#2343 5 years ago

I've got black nickel on mine and love it.

IMG_3732 (resized).JPGIMG_3732 (resized).JPG
1 week later
#2352 5 years ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

These guys have it in stock. Ordered from them a bunch, they are good. http://actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=A-12687

This is the one he's looking for. The actuator has an offset in it.

http://actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=5647-12693-18

#2356 5 years ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

The one I linked should be the whole assembly, but the same switch according to the manual. You are right though, its missing the offset. So in that case, buy yourself a new cherry switch and swap the actuator over since that doesnt seem to be in stock anywhere. Bryan sells those switches

I looked again and the one at Action does appear to be the correct one. I looked at the pic and not the description. And yes, if your actuator is good, I sell the switches for $3.50 each.

1 month later
#2392 4 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Well, I meant in person, but let's see some pics

I've got a few.

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg
#2395 4 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Sweet! Cleared cab?

It's a new cabinet with direct print art then cleared. Made the same way as Spooky's butter cabinets.

#2396 4 years ago

Here's a few details.

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg
4 months later
#2564 4 years ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

A lot of people unplugged the topper due to the noise it makes. I would check that first.

I'm pretty sure you can turn it off in the setting also.

3 months later
#2804 4 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Some owners don't like the splash decal mod since they block the view of the lanes and pops.

Yeah, not a big fan. I see the ramp being clear for a reason. It's to see what's underneath and behind. The decals also make things look too busy.

1 month later
#2964 4 years ago

Anyone need a fish?

He's not perfect.

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1 month later
#3050 3 years ago
Quoted from Asanteiro:

I already changed the switch and nothing remains the same. Do I have to put something special?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You've got your diode on backwards.

2 months later
#3202 3 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

That's great news . They say they are black nickel , like the original . I'm not sure of the difference but I got mine chromed and it looks excellent .
[quoted image]

Here's a black nickel.

2F57E75D-ECE9-47CE-822F-E9E90A72EB9A_1_105_c (resized).jpeg2F57E75D-ECE9-47CE-822F-E9E90A72EB9A_1_105_c (resized).jpeg
2 months later
#3314 3 years ago
Quoted from FelixTCat:

Can anybody show me what this is supposed to look like ? and if you have a part number for the spring I would appreciate it.
[quoted image]

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-439

1 month later
#3425 3 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Have you tried marking the belt to see if you can watch it slipping?

The slipping can be so slight you won't notice it. Things will seem to operate just fine.

I had the same issue and a tech friend of mine explained that if the reel doesn't spin fast enough, the software will time out and you end up with the third ball not lining up.

I also thought my belt was fine until I replaced it with a new one.

#3448 3 years ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

Anyone know the part number for the diode that’s on the pushbutton switch and what it’s function is?
Thank you
[quoted image]

https://www.pinballlife.com/diode-1n4004.html

1 week later
#3469 3 years ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

So I sent my boards out for the repair of J120 & J121 as well as installation of NVRAM.
I did new connectors for J120 & J121
Hooked everything back up
Playfield and backbox were lit for about 5 seconds before the whole machine turned off.
I get no power now and nothing on the MPU LED’s. The outlet that the machine is plugged into is good.

Check the main fuse in the power box inside the cabinet. Front right corner.

6 months later
#3766 2 years ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

How hard is it to change the lights in the topper to leds

All you have to do is take the clear dome off.

If you can do that, you can change the lights.

1 week later
#3790 2 years ago

What you need is just the armature link but in order to change it, you'll need to remove the roll pin, which can be a bit of a pain.

https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=03-8085

Or you can just replace the whole plunger assembly, which would be a whole lot simpler.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-8050-2

5 months later
#4240 2 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Painted wireforms look terrible imo. Hurt resale value, too.

I would agree. There are enough colors on the playfield as it is. No need to add more with the wireforms.

I'd say that's why they're a neutral chrome.

And please don't do it just because it sounds like something fun to do to your game.

10 months later
#4919 1 year ago
Quoted from Joker19:

Hey all.
Anyone that replaced the plastic ramp might be able to help me.
There are rivets that will need to be replaced for the switch on each sides.
What tool did you use to remove those rivets?
And what tool did you use to re rivet the new ramp to that switch?
Thanks.

The new ramp comes with the switch brackets already installed.

#4921 1 year ago
Quoted from Joker19:

I guess the one I was provided did not.
Below is the old one installed and the new one not installed.
[quoted image][quoted image]

https://www.starship-fantasy.com/ramps/Fish-Tales-Ramp

#4925 1 year ago
Quoted from Joker19:

Thanks Lhyrgoif. I was thinking on buy those in the pictures for removal and re riveting. Should that do the trick?
[quoted image]

The Dremel will work fine for grinding off the backside of the rivet but those are the wrong rivets. You want these.

https://www.pinballlife.com/semi-tubular-rivet.html

Not sure of the length.

1 week later
#4935 1 year ago
Quoted from cyberfez:

Going to LED the playfield and backbox so anyone have a definitive list of what to buy and placement? Just trying to push off an order and get stuck in to this. so excited.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/2smd-bulbs

Just buy these in wedge and bayonet style, sunlight with frosted lens. Use them everywhere.

Keep your flashers as incandescent so you're not blinded.

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