(Topic ID: 57782)

Fish Tales - Casters Club!!

By shacklersrevenge

8 years ago


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There are 4,102 posts in this topic. You are on page 80 of 83.
#3951 41 days ago
Quoted from Don44:

Should I assume the AE-23-800 is stronger and is too strong?

Yes. Less turns is stronger. 800 is the number of turns, or 1200, 23 or 27 is gauge of wire.

LTG : )

#3952 40 days ago

Fresh off the print

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#3953 38 days ago

Does anybody have scans of the reel decal and the plastics?

#3954 36 days ago
Quoted from theGiven:

Amazing new alternate translite by Brian Allen is now available. Ordered one last night! He also has art blades and limited prints on his site.... flylandesigns.com
[quoted image]

Good looking piece of art , but you can't beat the original , so many Easter eggs and such detail , one of the best ever .

#3955 36 days ago
Quoted from screaminr:

Good looking piece of art , but you can't beat the original , so many Easter eggs and such detail , one of the best ever .

Original is great, no doubt.

But, this one is going in my machine along with the side-art. I was shopping for new art blades already...

#3956 35 days ago

Hey all, just bought my first Fish Tales! I've had the same four pins for over a year now, so it's great to get another! Fishy will sit among Black Rose, Road Show, De jurassic park and Pinball Magic!

I'm slowly reading through this thread to get insight into owning a Fishy, one question I have right away is what is the latest ROM?
I played my Fishy before buying and noticed the weird extra balle text. Is it meant to have an e on the end of ball?
It seemed to fit odd on the screen also.
I am aware a rom alters this but not sure which and the difference. Anyone have a picture to compare?

Thanks!

#3957 35 days ago
Quoted from screaminr:

Good looking piece of art , but you can't beat the original , so many Easter eggs and such detail , one of the best ever .

This is true but I have been looking at mine for about 12 years now so put an order in for the limited edition one, I will put my original with the glass on the wall next to other spare translites until I get bored and then can swop them back around. Think I will put one of my spare rods over it while I’m putting it up there

#3958 35 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Hey all, just bought my first Fish Tales! I've had the same four pins for over a year now, so it's great to get another! Fishy will sit among Black Rose, Road Show, De jurassic park and Pinball Magic!
I'm slowly reading through this thread to get insight into owning a Fishy, one question I have right away is what is the latest ROM?
I played my Fishy before buying and noticed the weird extra balle text. Is it meant to have an e on the end of ball?
It seemed to fit odd on the screen also.
I am aware a rom alters this but not sure which and the difference. Anyone have a picture to compare?
Thanks!

The extra ball text error is normal. I could be mistaken, but I believe someone has released a new rom that fixes the issue. However, it doesn't affect game play so I don't worry about it on mine. Looks like IPDB lists the most current game rom as L5.

#3959 35 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

I am aware a rom alters this but not sure which and the difference. Anyone have a picture to compare?

You can read the ROM version written on the label of the ROM chip installed on the CPU board. The ROM version is also displayed when booting up. If quick boot is turned on in the menu then it is not shown, so turn off quick boot to check it.

I have old ROM version L3, but it plays fine.

#3960 34 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

You can read the ROM version written on the label of the ROM chip installed on the CPU board. The ROM version is also displayed when booting up. If quick boot is turned on in the menu then it is not shown, so turn off quick boot to check it.
I have old ROM version L3, but it plays fine.

Never heard of a 'quick boot' option or saw it in the adjustments
Is it some special ROM specific setting or something general on WPC games?

#3961 34 days ago
Quoted from harig:

Never heard of a 'quick boot' option or saw it in the adjustments
Is it some special ROM specific setting or something general on WPC games?

Sorry I was thinking of my LotR with the WhiteStar boards and the quick boot setting.

WPC shows the ROM version when you turn on the power. Mine says: Testing - Version L-4 so that means it has game/cpu ROM version is L-4 which mine came with and seems to work fine.

#3962 34 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

I played my Fishy before buying and noticed the weird extra balle text. Is it meant to have an e on the end of ball?

There is a fixed version of the ROM. It is mentioned a few times within this thread. If I remembered the version number I would have told you but it's basically L5 with LED ghosting fix and the Extra Ball spelling fixed.

#3963 34 days ago

I've done a lot of research on ROMs L-5 / G-5 / D-6. From what I have gathered , there is an official G-5 rom that has the LED fix and the extra ball text fix, but it's not available to download and burn. I saw that it was on sale once but for a hefty price. I know the consensus is to not use roms that aren't official in your machines to prevent damages, but I've been using rom D-6 in my machine for over a year and everything has always worked properly. The guys at ColorDMD were even kind enough to update the color file for Fish Tales so that the little things that now longer were colored were fixed. There's only a few tiny scenes were color is missing now, like when you get hold bonus on your last ball and your bonus is scored twice in a row, the second bonus is just white. It does help to tell both bonuses apart . There is a frame once in a while in the fish finder that goes white but turns back to color right after. Same goes for video mode where a single frame once in a while turns white then back to color. For some reason rom G-5 is very hard to find and has never been made available publicly. It really seems to me that D-6 is just G-5 in disguise and renamed. I couldn't find any information as to where D-6 really originates. Either way it works fine on the real hardware and it's easily available.

#3964 34 days ago

Ok so what i can grasp from your replies, L-4 doesn't have the xtra balle issue, but L-5 does.

G-5 and D-5 fix it, and are more or less the same roms.

So my question now is where can I get a copy of D-5 or G-5? I have be ability to burn a rom so just need the file.

I notice on ipdb there's a patch for xtra balle and led fix but it's for pinmame, i guess that won't work?

#3965 33 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Ok so what i can grasp from your replies, L-4 doesn't have the xtra balle issue, but L-5 does.
G-5 and D-5 fix it, and are more or less the same roms.
So my question now is where can I get a copy of D-5 or G-5? I have be ability to burn a rom so just need the file.
I notice on ipdb there's a patch for xtra balle and led fix but it's for pinmame, i guess that won't work?

The D-6 Rom for the pinmame set on ipdb is the Rom I am referring to. I flashed that ROM last year and used the updated color DMD file and everything has been running great.

#3966 33 days ago

I still can't seem to get my reel working correctly. It will work fine in test mode for a while and then it sounds like its struggling and the motor will move slower. Nothing is impeding the wheel from spinning. If I remove the motor from the gear box the gear on the motor spins freely and the gears spin in the gear box. When playing a game it works properly at times but will then just spit out balls from the reel in the middle of a game. Any suggestions? Do you guys think I just need a new motor?

#3967 33 days ago
Quoted from Don44:

I still can't seem to get my reel working correctly. It will work fine in test mode for a while and then it sounds like its struggling and the motor will move slower. Nothing is impeding the wheel from spinning. If I remove the motor from the gear box the gear on the motor spins freely and the gears spin in the gear box. When playing a game it works properly at times but will then just spit out balls from the reel in the middle of a game. Any suggestions? Do you guys think I just need a new motor?

This situation kind of reminds me of an issue I had with my Twilight zone clock. The clock was sluggish and sometimes wouldn't work in one direction. It ended up being a component on the clock control board.
Does FT have a small control board under the playfield for that motor? If so, I'd just replace that and see what happens. I think the TZ board was around 50 bucks and it cured all of the issues.

#3968 32 days ago

The D-6 version is the same as the L-5 version, but with the Extra Ball fix and the led ghosting fix in place.
Available from the ipdb: https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=861

#3969 32 days ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Does FT have a small control board under the playfield for that motor?

Usually there is a motor board under the playfield with a relay to send power to the motor. Maybe the relay is dirty and not providing full power to the motor. You could measure the voltage across the motor and see how that looks or take a look at the relay or connectors there.

#3970 32 days ago

I hadn’t really considered that board, thinking it was some thing with the motor but upon further inspection I see the board had been worked on before so I’m thinking that probably is the cause.

#3971 32 days ago
Quoted from Don44:

I hadn’t really considered that board, thinking it was some thing with the motor but upon further inspection I see the board had been worked on before so I’m thinking that probably is the cause.

Yes, I went thru the same thing with TZ, then had an AHA! moment.

#3972 32 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

The D-6 version is the same as the L-5 version, but with the Extra Ball fix and the led ghosting fix in place.
Available from the ipdb: https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=861

Oh so that will work on a real pin? I assumed because it sai d pinmame it wouldn't!

#3973 32 days ago

Another question, Fishy isn't here yet... But i realised I may have an issue.
To get it where its needed I have to shark fin it, my other pins only just fit under the door frame but Fishy has a topper.

Is the topper easy to remove?

Or would it be easier to shark fin the pin without legs on and push it along the floor on a towel or something?

#3974 32 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Another question, Fishy isn't here yet... But i realised I may have an issue.
To get it where its needed I have to shark fin it, my other pins only just fit under the door frame but Fishy has a topper.
Is the topper easy to remove?
Or would it be easier to shark fin the pin without legs on and push it along the floor on a towel or something?

Topper is easy to remove, that said can you not fold down the top and move it that way ?

#3975 32 days ago
Quoted from FelixTCat:

Topper is easy to remove, that said can you not fold down the top and move it that way ?

I would just fold down the head. I would also never call it "fishy" again unless you want it to break down constantly to get even with you.

#3976 31 days ago

B/W back boxes won't fit through that doorway, even with door off. So i have to shark fin

Is the topper easily removed and uses standard screws?

#3977 31 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

have to shark fin

OK, you have to rotate the backbox 90deg to go through a tight door. - shark fin

Yes the toper is easy to remove. You need a "security torx" bit with the hole in the center to remove the dome. Size T15 or T20?? Can't recall, but get aN inexpensive set and you will be covered.

amazon.com link »

#3978 31 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Oh so that will work on a real pin? I assumed because it sai d pinmame it wouldn't!

Yes it does. Not really sure why Pinmame would require the led fix anyways . One of the first things I did was to update to D-6 when I got my machine.

#3979 31 days ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I would just fold down the head. I would also never call it "fishy" again unless you want it to break down constantly to get even with you.

If I could up vote more than once I would.

10
#3980 31 days ago

Hi, fellow casters! I finally finished my FT makeover with Radcals. They look fantastic I think. Definitely a fair amount of work! Love this game.

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#3981 31 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Hi, fellow casters! I finally finished my FT makeover with Radcals. They look fantastic I think. Definitely a fair amount of work! Love this game.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looking great!

#3982 31 days ago

I've encountered a problem and need some help thinking this one through. It happened first the other day and after turning it off for a while and back on it seemed to fix itself so I put it down as a glitch and moved on but today the problem is back.

The ball popper and kickout don't pop/kick. The game realises that the ball is there, but it doesn't seem to know how to kick. There are also a number of lamps out. The Port and Starboard lamps on the boat as well as the Feeding Frenzy lights also on the boat aren't working as well as the orange (centre) fish on the playfield and all of the tails don't light as well as the Lock Ball 3 lamp.

I read the manual trying to see in the matrix had all of these things in common but it points me to boards/connectors that don't exist so I can only assume that I am reading the matrix wrong.

#3983 31 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Hi, fellow casters! I finally finished my FT makeover with Radcals. They look fantastic I think. Definitely a fair amount of work! Love this game.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks fantastic. If you can showcase your cabinet in your collection, Radcals are so worth it.

Like your decal too for the lock drop target. The translucent drop is a nice touch too.

#3984 31 days ago
Quoted from Stebel:

Looks fantastic. If you can showcase your cabinet in your collection, Radcals are so worth it.
Like your decal too for the lock drop target. The translucent drop is a nice touch too.

Thanks! My wife designed the drop target decal, she’s pretty creative and has made target decals for my White Water and BSD too. Radcals are a little tricky to do them right, but they look great when they are done!

#3985 31 days ago
Quoted from JustAnotherRat:

I've encountered a problem and need some help thinking this one through. It happened first the other day and after turning it off for a while and back on it seemed to fix itself so I put it down as a glitch and moved on but today the problem is back.
The ball popper and kickout down't pop/kick. The game realises that the ball is there, but it doesn't seem to know how to kick. There are also a number of lamps out. The Port and Starboard lamps on the boat as well as the Feeding Frenzy lights also on the boat aren't working as well as the orange (centre) fish on the playfield and all of the tails don't light as well as the Lock Ball 2 lamp.
I read the manual trying to see in the matrix had all of these things in common but it points me to boards/connectors that don't exist so I can only assume that I am reading the matrix wrong.

Trying to work out what's going on. Looking at this image inside the cab and everything on the 3rd row (Q88 Red-Ord J133-4) is not working. I went to the board but J133 doesn't have a connector. Where am I meant to look?

pasted_image (resized).png
#3986 31 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Oh so that will work on a real pin? I assumed because it sai d pinmame it wouldn't!

Yes it will.
Pinmame is an emulator which act exactly the same as the real machine.
All Pinmame rom files work in real games.

#3987 31 days ago
Quoted from Roamin:

Yes it does. Not really sure why Pinmame would require the led fix anyways . One of the first things I did was to update to D-6 when I got my machine.

Pinmame is an emulator which is used to test the rom files first before applying it to the real game.
Much easyer to debug any errors.

#3988 31 days ago
Quoted from Don44:

I still can't seem to get my reel working correctly. It will work fine in test mode for a while and then it sounds like its struggling and the motor will move slower. Nothing is impeding the wheel from spinning. If I remove the motor from the gear box the gear on the motor spins freely and the gears spin in the gear box. When playing a game it works properly at times but will then just spit out balls from the reel in the middle of a game. Any suggestions? Do you guys think I just need a new motor?

Try changing the belt, this is often the problem when balls are being released early. The belt slips a bit and the opto's don't line up with the balls thus early release.

#3989 31 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Thanks! My wife designed the drop target decal, she’s pretty creative and has made target decals for my White Water and BSD too. Radcals are a little tricky to do them right, but they look great when they are done!

What kind of work is needed for installing the radcals? Do you have to sand down the existing cabinet artwork, or can you just put them on over what's there already? Do you have to take the playfield out of the machine? Considering doing this to my white water.

#3990 31 days ago
Quoted from JustAnotherRat:

it seemed to fix itself so I put it down as a glitch

You are getting intermittent switch and lamp glitches. Step 1 is reseat the ribbon cables in the backbox when weird things happen. Does that have any affect?

#3991 31 days ago
Quoted from JustAnotherRat:

I went to the board but J133 doesn't have a connector.

J133 and J134 J135 right under it are identical. That lamp row connector can be connected to any of those. (Check the wire colors and you will see it is plugged in to one of those.)

J133 (resized).jpg

#3992 30 days ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

What kind of work is needed for installing the radcals? Do you have to sand down the existing cabinet artwork, or can you just put them on over what's there already? Do you have to take the playfield out of the machine? Considering doing this to my white water.

As long as the decals are flat, not raised around the legs or peeling, you don’t need to sand, just clean the cabinet well to remove dirt and dust so the Radcals stick well. If you have any dents or deep scratches in the cab, I would fill them with wood filler and then sand smooth. You want a good, solid surface to stick the Radcals to. You must remove all the bolts and the flipper buttons, and cut your own holes for them in the Radcals. The best way I’ve found is to remove the bolts, coin door, shooter rod, etc., and apply the Radcals. Then, if you hold a flashlight on the inside of the cabinet where the holes should be for the bolts, you can see the light come thru the Radcal and you’ll know where to cut the holes for the bolts. A dremel with a fine tip will cut the holes nicely.

The tricky part, for me, is the playfield. You must remove the hinge bolts that support the playfield. You can either disconnect all the wires and remove the playfield with help from another person, or you can use the “ceiling method.” There is a video online of a guy suspending his Safe Cracker PF from the ceiling and then lowering his cabinet on a Jack to work on it. So, I installed 2 eye-hooks in my basement ceiling beam to hook the playfield to when it’s upright. Then, I carefully unhook the hinges and the pf is suspended by the ceiling. I use a chain to suspend it. Then you can remove the pivot nuts and cabinet bolts and apply your Radcals.

I’m sure other methods are available. This works for me. If you have any questions, just ask! I’m happy to help.

7B88CB12-17BE-402E-9739-B9335B013567 (resized).jpeg

#3993 30 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

As long as the decals are flat, not raised around the legs or peeling, you don’t need to sand, just clean the cabinet well to remove dirt and dust so the Radcals stick well. If you have any dents or deep scratches in the cab, I would fill them with wood filler and then sand smooth. You want a good, solid surface to stick the Radcals to. You must remove all the bolts and the flipper buttons, and cut your own holes for them in the Radcals. The best way I’ve found is to remove the bolts, coin door, shooter rod, etc., and apply the Radcals. Then, if you hold a flashlight on the inside of the cabinet where the holes should be for the bolts, you can see the light come thru the Radcal and you’ll know where to cut the holes for the bolts. A dremel with a fine tip will cut the holes nicely.
The tricky part, for me, is the playfield. You must remove the hinge bolts that support the playfield. You can either disconnect all the wires and remove the playfield with help from another person, or you can use the “ceiling method.” There is a video online of a guy suspending his Safe Cracker PF from the ceiling and then lowering his cabinet on a Jack to work on it. So, I installed 2 eye-hooks in my basement ceiling beam to hook the playfield to when it’s upright. Then, I carefully unhook the hinges and the pf is suspended by the ceiling. I use a chain to suspend it. Then you can remove the pivot nuts and cabinet bolts and apply your Radcals.
I’m sure other methods are available. This works for me. If you have any questions, just ask! I’m happy to help.
[quoted image]

Awesome, great information and thank you for the detailed response!

#3994 30 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Pinmame is an emulator which is used to test the rom files first before applying it to the real game.
Much easyer to debug any errors.

I know what pinmame is, I'm saying there is no reason to apply the led fix to the ROM if you are using it in pinmame.. Because obviously the emulator is not driving real LEDs.

#3995 30 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

J133 and J134 J135 right under it are identical. That lamp row connector can be connected to any of those. (Check the wire colors and you will see it is plugged in to one of those.)
[quoted image]

Thank you. I didn't realise that. I'll get back to doing some more testing.

#3996 30 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

You are getting intermittent switch and lamp glitches. Step 1 is reseat the ribbon cables in the backbox when weird things happen. Does that have any affect?

I missed this post originally, I came back and re-read and gave it a try. This is what fixed the problem. I was very surprised, but very happy. Thanks.

#3997 29 days ago
Quoted from JustAnotherRat:

This is what fixed the problem. I was very surprised

It is a very common issue. If it happens again, order some new ribbon cables.

Hard to imagine a cable can wear out, but over the years and environment cycles (and vibration), the connections get tarnished and insulation gets brittle, etc.

#3998 29 days ago

I Purchased the fishing reel board and installed it today and I am still having the same issues. I got it from Marco and it does not look like the same board. They sold two different ones so I Purchased the one that looks like the one I had but it appears as though they sent me the other one that says EMI board without brake. Would this make a difference?

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#3999 29 days ago
Quoted from Don44:

I Purchased the fishing reel board

Those black inductors (L1,L2) are probably the same as the coils on the other board but Q1 and R1 are missing!

Are Q1 and R1 installed on the back of the board? If not, call Marco and they will be happy to help.

#4000 29 days ago

They are not on the other side if you are talking about the copper coil things.

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