Magnolia, DE
Quoted from Mancave:No idea why but can't find that on the IPDB, alternative name for another machine?
(Topic ID: 57782)
Linked Games
Fish Tales
Williams, 1992
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Cheers!, yeah i have totally overlooked it 
i guess cause it's not highlighted in blue being classified as a non pinball (redemption machine)
Quoted from Cmjb13:It looks very nice, but I cannot justify $400 for color,
Plus, I like to keep the machine as close to factory original as possible
It's not just color. Colordmd does not use the problematic high voltage circuits that dmd requires. Some dmd's have a loud humming/buzzing sound which I find annoying. Colordmd fixes all those issues and I like to think more reliable in the long term. Cost is high but reasonable if you consider having to get board work done and cost of new dmd. Plus, colordmd retains it's value pretty well and can be moved to another game. I'm kind of a purist myself but some things are just worth upgrading.
Quoted from jawjaw:I'm kind of a purist myself but some things are just worth upgrading.
And the color DMD is one of those things.
Saint-hyacinthe, QC
I consider myself a purist as well, my machine as no mods at all, but it's 100% LED, color DMD (led) , GI and LED OCD. No changes I have made can't be returned original state. I like to think that of color DMD were available back then, the Devs would of used them. Same goes for the LEDs. If the Devs didn't want colors, they wouldn't have used colored inserts, so I like to think that if they could of matched the bulb color to the inserts back then, they would have. If you didn't have the chance to see a color DMD in action, try to find somewhere where you could see a sample on a machine.. The LED DMD looks stunning.
Quoted from jawjaw:It's not just color. Colordmd does not use the problematic high voltage circuits that dmd requires. Some dmd's have a loud humming/buzzing sound which I find annoying. Colordmd fixes all those issues and I like to think more reliable in the long term. Cost is high but reasonable if you consider having to get board work done and cost of new dmd. Plus, colordmd retains it's value pretty well and can be moved to another game. I'm kind of a purist myself but some things are just worth upgrading.
I had dots on my DMD and as a test I swapped in my Rottendog DMD controller board from my Hot Shots Basketball. No more dots, so this confirmed the Fish Tales board had an issue.
So rather than get the original controller board fixed which would possibly fail again, and didn’t want to get another Rottendog board, I bought a DMDlux.
So if I ever want to upgrade to color, I’m half way there.
Quoted from Cmjb13:I had dots on my DMD and as a test I swapped in my Rottendog DMD controller board from my Hot Shots Basketball. No more dots, so the Fish Tales board had an issue
So rather than get the original controller board fixed which would possibly fail again, and didn’t want to get another Rottendog board, I bought a DMDlux.
So if I ever want to upgrade to color, I’m half way there.
Hi ! I wanted to put some all new coil sleeves on the flippers but the ones I bought don't fit, they seem to be ~1-2mm too tall and also the flipper plunger seems a bit too tight inside (though I can't see any diameter difference between the old and new sleeve)...
I thought I'd done my research well but did I buy the wrong reference ?
It's : Nylon - 2-3/16 x 1/2 inch - 03-7066-5
Fortunately the flippers work fine as is (just cleaning the sleeves and adjusting the EOS fixed my issue) but if in the future I need to change the sleeves, I'd rather know what's wrong 
According to the Manuel, that is the correct coil sleeve. Maybe post a picture of your flipper assembly. Is it possible that someone changed the flippers. Some people don't like the lightning flippers.
Quoted from Vernisious:According to the Manuel, that is the correct coil sleeve. Maybe post a picture of your flipper assembly. Is it possible that someone changed the flippers. Some people don't like the lightning flippers.
Indeed the flippers have been changed to regular Williams flippers - here's pics of the coils and flippers, would they need different coil sleeve references ? Looks ok when I googled it.
By the way, has anyone ever done a regular size version of the yellow lightning flippers ? I like their aesthetics but wouldn't change to shorter flippers
4F538FB6-CBB4-4DC4-94F4-F8CF9529A7C8 (resized).jpeg796DE68E-D8B3-4FAB-B1CF-97E6040D24D1 (resized).jpegQuoted from firebrand007:By the way, has anyone ever done a regular size version of the yellow lightning flippers ? I like their aesthetics but wouldn't change to shorter flippers [quoted image][quoted image]
This game is challenging enough with regular flippers. Glad I didn’t replace them with the lightning ones.
1 week later
Adelaide
Quoted from Ive:Sometimes just a different lamp can help.
Are these the #555 black socket type holder ?....I can't remember. If so try pinching the metal contact tabs together with small pliers. Can sometimes help.
A tip that may help others.... I put a small dab of clear silicone caulk on the light holder legs inside the pop bumper and it’s no longer flickering.
1 week later
Anyone know where I can get some nice custom apron instruction cards for Fish Tales? I know I can print them out from different sites... I'm looking for somewhere that I can purchase them from that are already the correct size and printed on quality paper. I like the look of custom apron instruction cards.
Quoted from Buellxb12r:Anyone know where I can get some nice custom apron instruction cards for Fish Tales? I know I can print them out from different sites... I'm looking for somewhere that I can purchase them from that are already the correct size and printed on quality paper. I like the look of custom apron instruction cards.
I'm right there with ya. I dont have a decent printer or the computer savvy to mess with printing them myself. Heres what I did. Go to the custom apron cards thread here on your smart phone, find some you like, click on them, and save the image. Then go in person to a local FedEx office/print store and tell them you need these images printed out to specific dimensions (measure your old cards). Tell them you want the cards to be nice and thick and glossy. They'll take if from there. And in about 10 minutes, you'll walk out with your new apron cards for around $7.
I like to bring an original apron card with me to compare sizes when they're done.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:I'm right there with ya. I dont have a decent printer or the computer savvy to mess with printing them myself. Heres what I did. Go to the custom apron cards thread here on your smart phone, find some you like, click on them, and save the image. Then go in person to a local FedEx office/print store and tell them you need these images printed out to specific dimensions (measure your old cards). Tell them you want the cards to be nice and thick and glossy. They'll take if from there. And in about 10 minutes, you'll walk out with your new apron cards for around $7.
I like to bring an original apron card with me to compare sizes when they're done.
Cool deal, thanks for your help. I like that idea and that's probably what I'll do.
My fish tales has a few solenoids that stopped firing, both slings and the ball shooter are three of the, ball still launches and all the switches are fine. Any suggestions on where to start? I’m thinking it’s got to be a board problem.
Quoted from airplanequartet:Any suggestions on where to start?
Manual - do they have a fuse common to all of them ? Pull and check with a meter.
LTG : )
Quoted from airplanequartet:My fish tales has a few solenoids that stopped firing, both slings and the ball shooter are three of the, ball still launches and all the switches are fine. Any suggestions on where to start? I’m thinking it’s got to be a board problem.
Coils use a common power wire going to each in a chain, so if that was loose or broken, several coils would stop working. Is there DC voltage present on the lugs of those coils?
Quoted from LTG:Manual - do they have a fuse common to all of them ? Pull and check with a meter.
Page 1-32 check fuse F105 on the driver board.
LTG : )
Quoted from BT-ADL:Unfortunately I just had to make the decision to part with FT or TSPP....
Still have FT.
You have made a Wise Choice .
I've been in that position a few times and I've learnt , Fish Tales is truly never leaving .
Quoted from BT-ADL:Unfortunately I just had to make the decision to part with FT or TSPP....
Still have FT.
It’s a keeper, never leaving me. Had mine over 10 years.
Something I noticed and wondering if anyone else has seen this...
If I power on the machine and leave it alone, the backbox lights (LED) start to flicker.
Is that due to the LED’s? Never noticed this before
Quoted from Cmjb13:If I power on the machine and leave it alone, the backbox lights (LED) start to flicker.
After a while the GI dimming starts and LEDs can flicker. Turn off the GI dimming in the settings.
Quoted from Neal_W:After a while the GI dimming starts and LEDs can flicker. Turn off the GI dimming in the settings.
Thank you kindly
Sad day, I have left the club
I just got offered to much $$ for it to refuse the offer, someone really wanted it bad....
Quoted from FuryosJustin:Sad day, I have left the club
I just got offered to much $$ for it to refuse the offer, someone really wanted it bad....
"gone fishin', leave a message"...
It's ok, you can still hang out in the casters club. We need people to lie about our catches. And you can have my "you're not gonna' eat that are ya?" 1mil fish.
Quoted from FuryosJustin:Sad day, I have left the club
I just got offered to much $$ for it to refuse the offer, someone really wanted it bad....
Before you leave, what was your high score, and boat rocks?
Quoted from Stebel:Before you leave, what was your high score, and boat rocks?
Lightning flippers, waxed and 7degs
......
Yea I'm not very good lols
IMG_20210329_180016 (resized).jpgIMG_20210329_180040 (resized).jpgThose were the last scores I took a photo of recently, I'm sure my G.C was in the 400s......
Or is that a tale told
Quoted from Stebel:Before you leave, what was your high score, and boat rocks?
My best was 35 Rock the Boats but I lost all my high scores except for the Grand Champion when I changed the batteries , while it was turned on .
Hi all
I am making spinner decals for Bally/Williams stuff that have these holographic decals - many games from the 80's and 90's. In general they are $2.50 shipped in the US for a pair and $4.00 shipped international for a pair. Shipping stays the same if you buy more.
PM me if interested.
Dan
narrow (resized).jpegA question for you guys: Have any of you done your cabinet with the Rad Cals? I ordered a set and I will post up pics. I just love Pat McMahon’s artwork so I am looking forward to it. My game is a really nice original low play machine that has fade on one side so I am hoping it will look really awesome with the Rad Cals.
Quoted from whthrs166:A question for you guys: Have any of you done your cabinet with the Rad Cals? I ordered a set and I will post up pics. I just love Pat McMahon’s artwork so I am looking forward to it. My game is a really nice original low play machine that has fade on one side so I am hoping it will look really awesome with the Rad Cals.
Where can I find pics of McMahon fish tales cabinet artwork?
Quoted from Madmax541:Where can I find pics of McMahon fish tales cabinet artwork?
His original drafts? I have no idea. Maybe someone else can chime in with that info.
1 week later
I'm really hoping someone has a solution , because obviously I can't come up with one myself. I can't get the ball to stop getting stucked in the longcast switch! As we can see on the picture , the ball gets stuck in the slot for the long cast switch. My first idea was to simply bend the actuator a bit more so that it pushed the ball out.. Every adjustment I made to the actuator never gave any good result.. and I ended up brake the actuator. I temporarily fixed it by using a safety pin that I reshaped, because safety pins are usually pretty sturdy. Yet, I had the same issue again and again, so I tried adjusting it over and over , and then broke the lever on which the actuator is mounted.. I hacked repaired that , and ordered 2 new actuators from Marco. I went ahead and shaped the actuator with trial and error (the location is a total pain to work in). But then I noticed the new actuator was also moving side to side because the lever came loose a bit inside it's plastic case. Since I had the shape , I decided to use my 2nd actuator and be very careful on how I handle it , not to loosen it up too. Well, these actuators are total crap! Even being extra careful the 2nd one ended up loosening itself just as bad.. I opened one of them and added some tension on the lever so that it stops moving as much. Now the actuator really doesn't shift as much, but it probably requires more than the 30g I think was advertised to close the switch.
But no matter how I shape that goddamn actuator, it can never push the ball out of the slot. If i try to lower the actuator so that the ball starts rolling back down the lane, I never managed to make it so that the ball would roll back down, but activate the switch too. My last idea would be to add Kwik wood inside the slot itself, to try and make it narrower so the ball can't hold in the slot, or completely block the first portion of the slot , like 1/8".
Ideas ? It's ruining all my fun.. Every time I play and it gets stuck there I want to do something about it! Trying to shake the ball out often causes tilts ..
Quoted from Roamin:[quoted image]I'm really hoping someone has a solution , because obviously I can't come up with one myself. I can't get the ball to stop getting stucked in the longcast switch! As we can see on the picture , the ball gets stuck in the slot for the long cast switch. My first idea was to simply bend the actuator a bit more so that it pushed the ball out.. Every adjustment I made to the actuator never gave any good result.. and I ended up brake the actuator. I temporarily fixed it by using a safety pin that I reshaped, because safety pins are usually pretty sturdy. Yet, I had the same issue again and again, so I tried adjusting it over and over , and then broke the lever on which the actuator is mounted.. I hacked repaired that , and ordered 2 new actuators from Marco. I went ahead and shaped the actuator with trial and error (the location is a total pain to work in). But then I noticed the new actuator was also moving side to side because the lever came loose a bit inside it's plastic case. Since I had the shape , I decided to use my 2nd actuator and be very careful on how I handle it , not to loosen it up too. Well, these actuators are total crap! Even being extra careful the 2nd one ended up loosening itself just as bad.. I opened one of them and added some tension on the lever so that it stops moving as much. Now the actuator really doesn't shift as much, but it probably requires more than the 30g I think was advertised to close the switch.
But no matter how I shape that goddamn actuator, it can never push the ball out of the slot. If i try to lower the actuator so that the ball starts rolling back down the lane, I never managed to make it so that the ball would roll back down, but activate the switch too. My last idea would be to add Kwik wood inside the slot itself, to try and make it narrower so the ball can't hold in the slot, or completely block the first portion of the slot , like 1/8".
Ideas ? It's ruining all my fun.. Every time I play and it gets stuck there I want to do something about it! Trying to shake the ball out often causes tilts ..
[quoted image]
I'd try a cliffy switch slot protector there.
https://www.passionforpinball.com/switchslot.htm
Quoted from EStroh:I'd try a cliffy switch slot protector there.
https://www.passionforpinball.com/switchslot.htm
Pretty sure that would be a bad idea. It would affect the ball straight coming out of the shooter lane and would most likely make it jump a little, all while making the gap I want to close or narrow stick out even more with the little wings that are used to protect. I might consider it for the ball drop of the ramps though.. Thanks for the idea!
Quoted from Roamin:I'm really hoping someone has a solution , because obviously I can't come up with one myself. I can't get the ball to stop getting stucked in the longcast switch! As we can see on the picture , the ball gets stuck in the slot for the long cast switch. My first idea was to simply bend the actuator a bit more so that it pushed the ball out.. Every adjustment I made to the actuator never gave any good result.. and I ended up brake the actuator. I temporarily fixed it by using a safety pin that I reshaped, because safety pins are usually pretty sturdy. Yet, I had the same issue again and again, so I tried adjusting it over and over , and then broke the lever on which the actuator is mounted.. I hacked repaired that , and ordered 2 new actuators from Marco. I went ahead and shaped the actuator with trial and error (the location is a total pain to work in). But then I noticed the new actuator was also moving side to side because the lever came loose a bit inside it's plastic case. Since I had the shape , I decided to use my 2nd actuator and be very careful on how I handle it , not to loosen it up too. Well, these actuators are total crap! Even being extra careful the 2nd one ended up loosening itself just as bad.. I opened one of them and added some tension on the lever so that it stops moving as much. Now the actuator really doesn't shift as much, but it probably requires more than the 30g I think was advertised to close the switch.
But no matter how I shape that goddamn actuator, it can never push the ball out of the slot. If i try to lower the actuator so that the ball starts rolling back down the lane, I never managed to make it so that the ball would roll back down, but activate the switch too. My last idea would be to add Kwik wood inside the slot itself, to try and make it narrower so the ball can't hold in the slot, or completely block the first portion of the slot , like 1/8".
Ideas ? It's ruining all my fun.. Every time I play and it gets stuck there I want to do something about it! Trying to shake the ball out often causes tilts ..
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
What's your pitch set at? I've never heard of this being a trouble spot before. I also second the cliffy idea. It's worth a shot.
Quoted from Roamin:I'm really hoping someone has a solution , because obviously I can't come up with one myself. I can't get the ball to stop getting stucked in the longcast switch! As we can see on the picture , the ball gets stuck in the slot for the long cast switch. My first idea was to simply bend the actuator a bit more so that it pushed the ball out.. Every adjustment I made to the actuator never gave any good result.. and I ended up brake the actuator. I temporarily fixed it by using a safety pin that I reshaped, because safety pins are usually pretty sturdy. Yet, I had the same issue again and again, so I tried adjusting it over and over , and then broke the lever on which the actuator is mounted.. I hacked repaired that , and ordered 2 new actuators from Marco. I went ahead and shaped the actuator with trial and error (the location is a total pain to work in). But then I noticed the new actuator was also moving side to side because the lever came loose a bit inside it's plastic case. Since I had the shape , I decided to use my 2nd actuator and be very careful on how I handle it , not to loosen it up too. Well, these actuators are total crap! Even being extra careful the 2nd one ended up loosening itself just as bad.. I opened one of them and added some tension on the lever so that it stops moving as much. Now the actuator really doesn't shift as much, but it probably requires more than the 30g I think was advertised to close the switch.
But no matter how I shape that goddamn actuator, it can never push the ball out of the slot. If i try to lower the actuator so that the ball starts rolling back down the lane, I never managed to make it so that the ball would roll back down, but activate the switch too. My last idea would be to add Kwik wood inside the slot itself, to try and make it narrower so the ball can't hold in the slot, or completely block the first portion of the slot , like 1/8".
Ideas ? It's ruining all my fun.. Every time I play and it gets stuck there I want to do something about it! Trying to shake the ball out often causes tilts ..
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Happens on the 2 of mine as well.
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