(Topic ID: 57782)

Fish Tales - Casters Club!!


By shacklersrevenge

7 years ago



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There are 3558 posts in this topic. You are on page 69 of 72.
#3401 57 days ago

Non ghosting LEDs should not be necessary if you update your game to Rom L-6 (if you ever can find that one) or D-6 from ipdb.org, or use the LED ghosting patcher software and apply that to L-5.

Or if you buy the LED OCD from comet. And add the GI OCD. Might be overkill for fish tales but it makes a tiny difference.

I'm with northerndude on that, I color matched the inserts and they really stand out. I also used pure white LEDs everywhere for GI and backglass, because I don't think the orange glow of incandescent lamps would of been the first choice of lighting if they had options when designing the game.

Making a list of all the LEDs you need is long, matching the sockets, colors, brightness, preferred types (frosted, no dome, etc). And then you hope they have them all in stock, I had to buy different socket types and convert the few missing ones I needed. In the end it turned out great, even though 1 flasher was meant to be green I ordered white (fixed in the list), but you can't tell. I'll share my list, but it's a total mess and I bought a whole bunch of extras to test different things. It can be used as a starting ground to make your own. Don't blame me if any of these sockets are wrong. I don't remember any being wrong but who knows.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/14Pu2fyVC1u6je6g3HQdQr3ykF-xItfJ1jBB7PEW2yyg/edit?usp=sharing

No lens LEDs might be better under inserts , because they focus their light in a single direction so they bleed less to adjacent inserts. I used a flasher that I can bend (flex) behind the stretch the truth pannel to hide the bulb and have just the panel flash. I did that in a few places, like the bait for the fish.

#3403 56 days ago

Mabey here?

ft (resized).jpg
#3404 56 days ago

Here’s a few years old chicken scratch of the bulb colors

EEE3DEE7-440A-4170-B112-267CDD4E234C (resized).jpeg
#3406 54 days ago
Quoted from Roamin:

Non ghosting LEDs should not be necessary if you update your game to Rom L-6 (if you ever can find that one) or D-6 from ipdb.org, or use the LED ghosting patcher software and apply that to L-5.
Or if you buy the LED OCD from comet. And add the GI OCD. Might be overkill for fish tales but it makes a tiny difference.
I'm with northerndude on that, I color matched the inserts and they really stand out. I also used pure white LEDs everywhere for GI and backglass, because I don't think the orange glow of incandescent lamps would of been the first choice of lighting if they had options when designing the game.
Making a list of all the LEDs you need is long, matching the sockets, colors, brightness, preferred types (frosted, no dome, etc). And then you hope they have them all in stock, I had to buy different socket types and convert the few missing ones I needed. In the end it turned out great, even though 1 flasher was meant to be green I ordered white (fixed in the list), but you can't tell. I'll share my list, but it's a total mess and I bought a whole bunch of extras to test different things. It can be used as a starting ground to make your own. Don't blame me if any of these sockets are wrong. I don't remember any being wrong but who knows.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/14Pu2fyVC1u6je6g3HQdQr3ykF-xItfJ1jBB7PEW2yyg/edit?usp=sharing
No lens LEDs might be better under inserts , because they focus their light in a single direction so they bleed less to adjacent inserts. I used a flasher that I can bend (flex) behind the stretch the truth pannel to hide the bulb and have just the panel flash. I did that in a few places, like the bait for the fish.

+1 on making a list and ocd boards. You can just buy a bunch of white bulbs but without counting bulbs and socket types but you will end up spending a lot on extra bulbs you do not need. I make a list of all the inserts and then count bulbs in gi and backbox. Frosted 1smd in backbox and 2smd frosted in GI. I used sunlight white in my game. It's a more natural looking than natural white but not as yellow as warm. Make a list of all the inserts. Write down color, base type, lens type, and if flex. Flex bulbs are great for tight areas or where a traditional bulb would not be pointing directly at insert. I use 1smd clear lens for inserts but you might want to use 2smd for larger inserts. Frosted lens also might be better for some inserts than clear. Color match except for orange and yellow - warm white for those. Once I get a full list, I add up all the different kind of bulbs to make ordering easier. Throw in a few extras of gi bulbs since it's easy to miscount. Flashers are optional imo. Led flashers are very bright and get expensive. You can easily get away with leaving incandescent flashers in the game and save a little money.

I don't consider ocd boards overkill for any game. They fix all the negative issues with leds - ghosting, fading, and even brightness. Games look so much better with these boards I would never put leds in another game without them.

#3407 54 days ago

Are the frosted less harsh on the eyes or something? Or better light diffusion?
I have clear dome 2smd sunlights in all my games g.i.
I just looked at the bulbs in my met when I did my bulk commet order and thought the clear domes it has must be the standard way. I'm not gonna change them out or anything, just curious why frosted are better for next time

#3408 53 days ago

Real nice light diffusion, especially in the GI, big difference for me

#3409 53 days ago

So I disassembled the reel to give it a good cleaning.

I noticed a bulb inside, but the bulb holder doesn’t seem to attach to anything to make the button light up.

Is this normal?

EC6564EA-DB22-41C3-886D-1E227512966E (resized).jpeg

#3410 53 days ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

So I disassembled the reel to give it a good cleaning.
I noticed a bulb inside, but the bulb holder doesn’t seem to attach to anything to make the button light up.
Is this normal?
[quoted image]

From the looks of those connections, it looks like someone did some creative soldering. Why would they put a bulb inside a metal casing? I don't get that at all?

#3411 53 days ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Why would they put a bulb inside a metal casing?

FT prototypes had a lighted cast button. You can add a bulb to backlight your plastic button, etc.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fish-tales-led-cast-button-wiring-help

#3412 53 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

FT prototypes had a lighted cast button. You can add a bulb to backlight your plastic button, etc.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fish-tales-led-cast-button-wiring-help

Ash, so someone removed the lit button and put that switch in I guess, leaving the socket. At least that makes sense if they couldn't find a replacement plastic button.

#3413 51 days ago

Guys... I beg if someone can help as my tech guy is stuck..

The reel works properly in test mode...
When in game play the 3rd hole doesn't align...

We did optos, cleaning, the works...

A gentleman here said to reverse the motor to make it spin the other way... he checked that but said no one has messed with it before in case they put on reverse and he said to leave it...

Can someone help me..

I have had this game for almost a year .. I just wanna play the......thing..lol

Thank u very much

#3414 51 days ago
Quoted from Liakos:

Guys... I beg if someone can help as my tech guy is stuck..
The reel works properly in test mode...
When in game play the 3rd hole doesn't align...
We did optos, cleaning, the works...
A gentleman here said to reverse the motor to make it spin the other way... he checked that but said no one has messed with it before in case they put on reverse and he said to leave it...
Can someone help me..
I have had this game for almost a year .. I just wanna play the......thing..lol
Thank u very much

You put in a fresh reel belt? That's my bet.

#3415 51 days ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

So I disassembled the reel to give it a good cleaning.
I noticed a bulb inside, but the bulb holder doesn’t seem to attach to anything to make the button light up.
Is this normal?

In my machine ,just by the connector for the cast button, the connector for illuminating the switch is right there , with nothing connected to it. I'll post a picture later.

Quoted from Liakos:

Guys... I beg if someone can help as my tech guy is stuck..
The reel works properly in test mode...
When in game play the 3rd hole doesn't align...
We did optos, cleaning, the works...
A gentleman here said to reverse the motor to make it spin the other way... he checked that but said no one has messed with it before in case they put on reverse and he said to leave it...
Can someone help me..
I have had this game for almost a year .. I just wanna play the......thing..lol
Thank u very much

I'm with yzfguy on that one, you should definitely replace the reel belt first thing. It is known to cause all sorts of reel issues when you have the wrong belt.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8614

They ship you a clear belt , not white like the original. Don't waste time looking for other issues until this belt as been replaced. Most likely it slips when you have 2 balls in there already.

#3416 51 days ago
Quoted from Liakos:

Guys... I beg if someone can help as my tech guy is stuck..
The reel works properly in test mode...
When in game play the 3rd hole doesn't align...
We did optos, cleaning, the works...
A gentleman here said to reverse the motor to make it spin the other way... he checked that but said no one has messed with it before in case they put on reverse and he said to leave it...
Can someone help me..
I have had this game for almost a year .. I just wanna play the......thing..lol
Thank u very much

If it's not spinning the correct way, then that needs to be rectified if someone has messed with it or not.

#3417 51 days ago

My tech guy checked it and said no one messed with it cuz its clean, no excess solder etc...
So he didnt want to reverse it ...he left it alone..
I'm ordering the new belt..
I sincerely appreciate your help guys

#3418 51 days ago
Quoted from Liakos:

I'm ordering the new belt..
I sincerely appreciate your help guys

Have you tried marking the belt to see if you can watch it slipping?

#3419 51 days ago
Quoted from Liakos:

My tech guy checked it and said no one messed with it cuz its clean, no excess solder etc...
So he didnt want to reverse it ...he left it alone..
I'm ordering the new belt..
I sincerely appreciate your help guys

It should spin like it would roll UP the playfield if it could.

#3420 51 days ago
Quoted from Liakos:

My tech guy checked it and said no one messed with it cuz its clean, no excess solder etc...
So he didnt want to reverse it ...he left it alone..
I'm ordering the new belt..
I sincerely appreciate your help guys

If its not working correctly, a new belt is guessing and just throwing darts at a board, it'll be needed to be spinning correctly to work correctly.

#3421 51 days ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

It should spin like it would roll UP the playfield if it could

Yeah mine spins towards the headbox.

#3422 50 days ago

New belt fixed this problem for me.

#3423 50 days ago
Quoted from Liakos:

My tech guy checked it and said no one messed with it cuz its clean, no excess solder etc...
So he didnt want to reverse it ...he left it alone..
I'm ordering the new belt..
I sincerely appreciate your help guys

Yep - as quite a few of us said 8 days ago when you asked about this ........ new belt

#3424 50 days ago

I agree, the belt should absolutely be replaced if it hasn't been already. This is a known issue. However, turn the game on, look at the reel when the game boots, verify its spinning the correct way. Takes 5 seconds, costs nothing. If its spinning the wrong way, no amount of parts will fix the issue.

#3425 50 days ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Have you tried marking the belt to see if you can watch it slipping?

The slipping can be so slight you won't notice it. Things will seem to operate just fine.

I had the same issue and a tech friend of mine explained that if the reel doesn't spin fast enough, the software will time out and you end up with the third ball not lining up.

I also thought my belt was fine until I replaced it with a new one.

#3426 50 days ago

Is there a video or instructions on how to replace the belt ?

#3427 50 days ago
Quoted from FelixTCat:

Is there a video or instructions on how to replace the belt ?

Not needed, once you start taking it apart, it's obvious.

#3428 50 days ago

I had the same problem. I replaced the belt but still had an alignment issue. I then replaced the upper “cog” on the belt with a new one, but noticed even the new
Cog had a bit of play on the shaft. I wedged and broke off the tip of a toothpick inside
The small gap between the cog and the shaft...has worked perfect ever since

#3429 50 days ago
Quoted from Blenderhead:

I had the same problem. I replaced the belt but still had an alignment issue. I then replaced the upper “cog” on the belt with a new one, but noticed even the new
Cog had a bit of play on the shaft. I wedged and broke off the tip of a toothpick inside
The small gap between the cog and the shaft...has worked perfect ever since

Same here. I replaced both pullies and the belt and still had issues. Everything looked like it was working ok but reel would get out of alignment. Both the new and old pully with the "D" shaped hole had a bit of play. I wedged some paper on the flat side to remove the play. I also scuffed up the pullies with scotchbrite pad. They plastic was very slick and I noticed the belt would slip. Worked flawlessly ever since.

#3430 49 days ago

Found this in the coin box of my FT, anybody know where it goes? Bolt holes line up with the casting handle. Wondering if this was a light up mod that didn't get installed from the PO. Nothing else but this plastic.

WIN_20201205_19_42_24_Pro (resized).jpg
#3431 49 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Found this in the coin box of my FT, anybody know where it goes? Bolt holes line up with the casting handle. Wondering if this was a light up mod that didn't get installed from the PO. Nothing else but this plastic.
[quoted image]

I had every single screw, bolt, plastic, etc torn right down to the wood on my FT, I never saw a part like that

#3432 47 days ago

Can someone please verify if this rubber is installed correctly near the tip of the boat?

Are there supposed to be any star posts here?

Thanks

F291A368-1092-4788-83F3-EC72FD35C89E (resized).jpeg

#3433 47 days ago

Can someone please verify how to install the top leftmost plastic with the reel and man in the canoe?

I see 2 screw holes, but nothing to screw them into.

Thanks

C91F23B3-0133-4356-94E3-4369BA7E2EB9 (resized).jpeg
#3434 47 days ago

Your missing your metal rails for the plastic to affix to

71762663-1DC7-4B74-95EA-1EA6BE458B4D (resized).jpeg

#3435 47 days ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

Can someone please verify if this rubber is installed correctly near the tip of the boat?

Are there supposed to be any star posts here?

Double rubbers get installed there. It's hard to see once assembled. Here a few pics.

Of coarse, that clear plastic should not be laying on the rubber. Maybe install a washer so it stays up in place.

IMG_8796 (resized).jpg
IMG_8797 (resized).jpg
IMG_8798 (resized).jpg

#3436 47 days ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Your missing your metal rails for the plastic to affix to

A MOST critical item

#3437 46 days ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Your missing your metal rails for the plastic to affix to
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Was a long day. Thank you.

#3438 46 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Double rubbers get installed there. It's hard to see once assembled. Here a few pics.
Of coarse, that clear plastic should not be laying on the rubber. Maybe install a washer so it stays up in place.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Thanks. I had wondered where that remaining rubber from the kit went to.

#3439 46 days ago

I’m trying to reconnect the cables for the top left boat (#3) and the rail going to the reel (#4)

I see (2) connections (#1) Top & (#2) Bottom.

Can someone please confirm which cable goes to the boat and which one goes to the reel rail?

Many thanks in advance
3FB80CD1-A5CF-4CE3-9BDC-BED6349C117F (resized).jpeg

#3440 45 days ago

wire colors and plugs/

3-2 1-4?

#3441 45 days ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

wire colors and plugs/
3-2 1-4?

Also looks like 4 cant physically reach 3 at all....

#3442 45 days ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Also looks like 4 cant physically reach 3 at all....

thats what I was thinking

#3443 45 days ago

Selling my fish tales topper..

ebay.com link » Original Williams Fish Tales Pinball Machine Topper Tested Working Tails

video of it in action...

#3445 45 days ago

Anyone know the part number for the diode that’s on the pushbutton switch and what it’s function is?

Thank you

525E3411-B224-4DDF-BD8D-91150FD79EDF (resized).jpeg
#3446 45 days ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

Anyone know the part number for the diode that’s on the pushbutton switch and what it’s function is?
Thank you
[quoted image]

The diode is to isolate switches in the switch matrix. It is needed and has to be installed in the correct direction. Any diode will work for this but I only buy 1n4007 diodes. This way I can used these diodes for switches, lamps and coils.

#3447 44 days ago
Quoted from atariaction:

Selling my fish tales topper..
ebay.com link » Original Williams Fish Tales Pinball Machine Topper Tested Working Tails
video of it in action...

Holy wow.

1. Why would you sell your topper?

#3448 44 days ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

Anyone know the part number for the diode that’s on the pushbutton switch and what it’s function is?
Thank you
[quoted image]

https://www.pinballlife.com/diode-1n4004.html

#3449 44 days ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Holy wow.
1. Why would you sell your topper?

Ceiling height sadly

I considered wiring it up with super long wires and having it sit on a shelf nearby which would be cool but the clacking would likely ultimately drive the wife crazy. So it just goes from one FT to another!

#3450 44 days ago
Quoted from atariaction:

Ceiling height sadly
I considered wiring it up with super long wires and having it sit on a shelf nearby which would be cool but the clacking would likely ultimately drive the wife crazy. So it just goes from one FT to another!

Or take it off and hang on to it. In case you ever sell the machine, or move the pins somewhere with a higher ceiling.

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