(Topic ID: 57782)

Fish Tales - Casters Club!!

By shacklersrevenge

10 years ago


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There are 5,566 posts in this topic. You are on page 66 of 112.
#3251 3 years ago

I went with the full magnetic cover.

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#3252 3 years ago

Baby fish tales. If you want one to accompany your full size pin they can be found on my Etsy.

https://etsy.me/34PXnd3

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#3253 3 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Baby fish tales. If you want one to accompany your full size pin they can be found on my Etsy.
https://etsy.me/34PXnd3
[quoted image][quoted image]

Shut up and take my money!

I buy anything fish tales, keep em coming.

#3254 3 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Baby fish tales. If you want one to accompany your full size pin they can be found on my Etsy.

SOLD OUT? That didn't last long! Any more on the way?

#3255 3 years ago

Mtg381 Not sure how many he had in stock, but when I visited the site 9 hours after his post, it said it only had 1 in stock.. So I bought it. Hopefully he gets more

#3257 3 years ago

There’s only one alcoholic drink to have while playing FT

53A8D712-D68E-4B4B-AB29-3F7C0BE112F2 (resized).jpeg53A8D712-D68E-4B4B-AB29-3F7C0BE112F2 (resized).jpeg
#3258 3 years ago

Hahaha now I'm thirsty.

I'm just about to start rebuilding my machine. So far I've dismantled the top of the playfield, polished as good as I could, waxed, replaced 2 mylars, added a 3rd one (on top of the LIE lanes). Changed every sleeve, every spring. Changed the boat mini playfield for a brand new one. Adjusted most leaf switches(got a few left). I started buffing the flat metal tracks around the boat, got a few more to go. Today I received my LEDs along with both OCD boards (GI and LED).

Should I go color DMD? From the pics / vids it does look very nice. I would only like a real color DMD and not a simulated lcd DMD.. Should I update to color?

#3259 3 years ago
Quoted from Roamin:

Should I update to color?

Absolutely. Huge difference and completely worth the price of admission.

#3260 3 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Absolutely. Huge difference and completely worth the price of admission.

And I will add that the LCD version is just as good. Set it on DotXL and you'll never know it's not an led version

#3261 3 years ago
Quoted from Roamin:

Should I update to color?

Of course. It's really not a decision - it's a must.

I went LCD, it's just better in my eyes, but even the ColorDMD LED version is still streets ahead of the regular DMD.

Also fitted both OCD boards - the GI OCD has far less of an effect in Fish Tales, but it certainly helps when that GI blacks out fairly regularly. All with Comet frosted 2SMD sunlight whites.

#3262 3 years ago

Colour dmd and ledocd is a must have, I too prefer the lcd version but any is better than not having.
I preferred warm white in the GI.

#3263 3 years ago

Color DMD or pin2dmd? I think color DMD looks better? Or is it me? Anywhere to order from Canada? Kinda fed up of paying so much shipping and duties.. Although this should be my last purchase for FT for a while.

#3264 3 years ago
Quoted from Roamin:

Color DMD or pin2dmd? I think color DMD looks better? Or is it me? Anywhere to order from Canada? Kinda fed up of paying so much shipping and duties.. Although this should be my last purchase for FT for a while.

Buy from Nitro if they have them, but all in all the price ends up the same i'm sure.

#3265 3 years ago

Hoping someone can help me...

My fishtales keeps re setting...

Every 2 minutes or even I'm playing a few minutes into the game the machine will just reset out of the blue

Iim not tech savvy but my technician tried adding more power as he thought there isnt enough voltage ?...

If that's not the problem does someone know what else I can try... I will relay the info to my guy who helps me fix them... trying to bypass the hours of figuring this out...

I sincerely appreciate any feedback someone can give me....

Thanks in advance

#3266 3 years ago
Quoted from Liakos:

Hoping someone can help me...
My fishtales keeps re setting...
Every 2 minutes or even I'm playing a few minutes into the game the machine will just reset out of the blue
Iim not tech savvy but my technician tried adding more power as he thought there isnt enough voltage ?...
If that's not the problem does someone know what else I can try... I will relay the info to my guy who helps me fix them... trying to bypass the hours of figuring this out...
I sincerely appreciate any feedback someone can give me....
Thanks in advance

http://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html

This is your quick and easy fix. Read the details on the page as this adapter is basically relieving the issue. However, I have the adapter on 3 of my games for well over 2 years with LOTS of play and no issues. Bottom line, this fix works for me because I don’t have time to try and track down the gremlins causing the issue.

#3267 3 years ago

2nd that on kahr board

#3268 3 years ago
Quoted from Liakos:

My fishtales keeps re setting...

Go over the check list. Don't guess or mask it.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

LTG : )

#3269 3 years ago

Guys ... I cantvthank u enough..

#3270 3 years ago

I have the man spare Daughterboard kept around here in case i have another pin that comes up also.

#3271 3 years ago
Quoted from Liakos:

Hoping someone can help me...
My fishtales keeps re setting...
Every 2 minutes or even I'm playing a few minutes into the game the machine will just reset out of the blue
Iim not tech savvy but my technician tried adding more power as he thought there isnt enough voltage ?...
If that's not the problem does someone know what else I can try... I will relay the info to my guy who helps me fix them... trying to bypass the hours of figuring this out...
I sincerely appreciate any feedback someone can give me....
Thanks in advance

WPC resets are more often than not a connector issue.

This info below given by a well known and respected tech on Pinballinfo forum. The last few times I have had the dreaded reset it has been a connector.
....................................................................................................

A problem with BR2 is a possibility, but is in fact rarely the cause

of most reset problems.

It is more likely that there is a bad power connector. You need to

carry out these checks first.

Measure against ground on a DC scale the voltage reading at TP2 on

the power board – the 5V test point. If this is below 4.9 V then you

have a problem on the power board, either with the LM323K regulator

or the J101 power input connector.

Look to the right hand side of the power board and locate connector

J101 which has red and blue wires. Remove and replace a couple of

times. If it is scorched then it needs replacing. Re-check the 5V and

see if any improvement.

If still less than 4.9V then replace LM323K rectifier.

If 4.9v or above, make a note of the reading and then take another

measurement on the CPU on the top end of the copper coil you can see

to the right hand edge of the CPU. If this is more than 0.04V less

than the recorded reading from TP2 then the power connector between

the two boards is at fault.

Locate the short grey ribbon connector that joins the CPU and power

driver board.

Now remove and replace the connector directly below this on the power

driver board. Do this several times, which basically removes

contaminants and improves connectivity.

This may well solve the problem, but it may re-emerge in the future

and the connector may need replacing long term.

If all the voltages are good, and you have more than 4.9V

consistently on the CPU then you are at liberty to replace BR2 and

its capacitor.

#3272 3 years ago
Quoted from Ive:

WPC resets are more often than not a connector issue.

Agree! I always start by measuring at TP2 on the power driver board, and then compare it to pin 32 on the game rom (U6) on the CPU board. Usually i will see to much of a difference between the two, indicating that the connector between the two boards needs to be checked.

#3273 3 years ago

Well, as of monday I consider my machine at about 95% where I want to take it.

I took everything off from the playfield , cleaned , polished to the best I could, waxed it.

Sanded all the metal tracks to remove all traces of balls and other metal parts like the holders for the reel.

Never-dulled all ramps,tracks and metal parts.

Changed the boat playfield.

Changed the plastic ramp.

Changed everything except the coil and the spoons (doh! Going to order the spoons soon, noticed one was pierced so I had to fix it with glue and baking soda) for the bumpers.

Bought all but 4 plastics (Didn't think I was missing the protectors on the ramps , I'm currently using the old ones on the new ramp so I'll order these 2 as well). The other 2 are the one under the far top right plastic which is clear (yellowed) with 2 red posts on it. The other one is the one just below the bumpers , under the boat, clear (yellowed and warped). These plastics weren't included in the sets I found. The only 2 I haven't yet installed are the fisherman and the stretch the truth, because of the rivets. I have the rivets, and a press , but not the correct bit to press the rivet. I made a jig by drilling very little in a coupling nut to get the shape of the head of the rivet, and used a small ball bearing on the other side to crush the rivet.. It was fine to put the studs on the metal tracks back on, but I don't want to risk it on plastic until I get the proper bit to press it.

Installed plastic protectors.

Changed 2 mylars (bumper , reel drop) , added 3 more (on the LIE lane where the ball exits, the captive ball lane, on the blue sticker at the base of the boat).

Even if the playfield had most of its bulbs changed to LED , it was somewhat inconsistent, so ordered a ton of LEDs and right now the only bulbs I haven't installed are those in the topper. I made 1 mistake and ordered a wrong flasher color for the video mode in the captive ball, so I'll have to order it.

Bought the topper dome even if mine looks good. I think the plastic is cracked a bit around the screw holes.

I meant to change every single metal post I could, but I based my order on the manual's list of posts, but it is wrong. I ordered 6 of one type of post and just one of the other , but it should of been the opposite. In the end I had to re-use about 5 or 6 posts because I wasn't going to wait for another order .. and you can't even see them..

I changed every plastic post.

I changed every rubber, including the black ones that were on the flippers, for the original red ones (bought a rubber kit from marco). It also had yellow rubbers on the posts instead of black. Up until then I never knew different rubbers had different hardness to them. It changed the game completely.. The ball now spins like crazy, and bounces all over the playfield. In a matter of a few games the ball jumped twice from hitting the right post on the boat straight into the rail.. That definitely wasn't happening with black flippers and yellow posts (these posts were super old too). Pretty sure its the extra spin on the ball that makes it jump so much more that the harder , black rubber post. Now I understand more how so many plastics end up breaking . I love the faster pace though! I hadn't play on real hardware in so many years and I never played as much so that I could notice so many details on how the game plays.

I ordered black balls from marco, one with a nuke sign, one with a diamond and clubs and the last with patterns that look like the ball is cracked. I am wondering , are the black balls safe ? I wouldn't want to hurt the playfield if these balls aren't adequate. They really let you see how much the ball spins on itself though..

Upgraded my ROM to D-6 to fix the "xtra balle" display bug but more importantly with the new light driver code that doesn't have that spike of power pulling 2 amps constantly (The ghosting effect). Can anyone confirm D-6 works with ColorDMD? It should , since it's based on L-5 with a simple display fix and change in the code how the lamps are driven.

Installed LED OCD. (Great product!)

Installed GI OCD. (Great product!)

Printed 2 custom cards from all the ones suggested (thanks guys!).

Ordered CPR's Mirror translite because I read in this forum it looks amazing and I was tempted by it since I saw it.

Just about to order both a LCD and a LED colordmd , because I don't want to decide without seeing them. Will probably get a 3rd one to save on shipping and resell the 2 that I won't use.

I'm looking for someone local to re-chrome the plunger handle.

Overall I spent a lot of money on this machine but it looks so damn good right now. This machine as gotten me obsessed.. I was waiting past 25 years to acquire it. For the past weeks pretty much all I do involves Fish tales in a way. Do we all get that obsessed with our machines?

I posted a bunch of pictures of left over parts that I have. If anyone is interested in any of these parts, every reasonable offers will be considered.. I'm not looking to make money, but maybe to help out someone.

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#3274 3 years ago
Quoted from Roamin:

Well, as of monday I consider my machine at about 95% where I want to take it.
I took everything off from the playfield , cleaned , polished to the best I could, waxed it.
Sanded all the metal tracks to remove all traces of balls and other metal parts like the holders for the reel.
Never-dulled all ramps,tracks and metal parts.
Changed the boat playfield.
Changed the plastic ramp.
Changed everything except the coil and the spoons (doh! Going to order the spoons soon, noticed one was pierced so I had to fix it with glue and baking soda) for the bumpers.
Bought all but 4 plastics (Didn't think I was missing the protectors on the ramps , I'm currently using the old ones on the new ramp so I'll order these 2 as well). The other 2 are the one under the far top right plastic which is clear (yellowed) with 2 red posts on it. The other one is the one just below the bumpers , under the boat, clear (yellowed and warped). These plastics weren't included in the sets I found. The only 2 I haven't yet installed are the fisherman and the stretch the truth, because of the rivets. I have the rivets, and a press , but not the correct bit to press the rivet. I made a jig by drilling very little in a coupling nut to get the shape of the head of the rivet, and used a small ball bearing on the other side to crush the rivet.. It was fine to put the studs on the metal tracks back on, but I don't want to risk it on plastic until I get the proper bit to press it.
Installed plastic protectors.
Changed 2 mylars (bumper , reel drop) , added 3 more (on the LIE lane where the ball exits, the captive ball lane, on the blue sticker at the base of the boat).
Even if the playfield had most of its bulbs changed to LED , it was somewhat inconsistent, so ordered a ton of LEDs and right now the only bulbs I haven't installed are those in the topper. I made 1 mistake and ordered a wrong flasher color for the video mode in the captive ball, so I'll have to order it.
Bought the topper dome even if mine looks good. I think the plastic is cracked a bit around the screw holes.
I meant to change every single metal post I could, but I based my order on the manual's list of posts, but it is wrong. I ordered 6 of one type of post and just one of the other , but it should of been the opposite. In the end I had to re-use about 5 or 6 posts because I wasn't going to wait for another order .. and you can't even see them..
I changed every plastic post.
I changed every rubber, including the black ones that were on the flippers, for the original red ones (bought a rubber kit from marco). It also had yellow rubbers on the posts instead of black. Up until then I never knew different rubbers had different hardness to them. It changed the game completely.. The ball now spins like crazy, and bounces all over the playfield. In a matter of a few games the ball jumped twice from hitting the right post on the boat straight into the rail.. That definitely wasn't happening with black flippers and yellow posts (these posts were super old too). Pretty sure its the extra spin on the ball that makes it jump so much more that the harder , black rubber post. Now I understand more how so many plastics end up breaking . I love the faster pace though! I hadn't play on real hardware in so many years and I never played as much so that I could notice so many details on how the game plays.
I ordered black balls from marco, one with a nuke sign, one with a diamond and clubs and the last with patterns that look like the ball is cracked. I am wondering , are the black balls safe ? I wouldn't want to hurt the playfield if these balls aren't adequate. They really let you see how much the ball spins on itself though..
Upgraded my ROM to D-6 to fix the "xtra balle" display bug but more importantly with the new light driver code that doesn't have that spike of power pulling 2 amps constantly (The ghosting effect). Can anyone confirm D-6 works with ColorDMD? It should , since it's based on L-5 with a simple display fix and change in the code how the lamps are driven.
Installed LED OCD. (Great product!)
Installed GI OCD. (Great product!)
Printed 2 custom cards from all the ones suggested (thanks guys!).
Ordered CPR's Mirror translite because I read in this forum it looks amazing and I was tempted by it since I saw it.
Just about to order both a LCD and a LED colordmd , because I don't want to decide without seeing them. Will probably get a 3rd one to save on shipping and resell the 2 that I won't use.
I'm looking for someone local to re-chrome the plunger handle.
Overall I spent a lot of money on this machine but it looks so damn good right now. This machine as gotten me obsessed.. I was waiting past 25 years to acquire it. For the past weeks pretty much all I do involves Fish tales in a way. Do we all get that obsessed with our machines?
I posted a bunch of pictures of left over parts that I have. If anyone is interested in any of these parts, every reasonable offers will be considered.. I'm not looking to make money, but maybe to help out someone.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice! Those black balls are safe, but I took mine out because after a dozen games they looked scratched and crappy.

#3275 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Nice! Those black balls are safe, but I took mine out because after a dozen games they looked scratched and crappy.

I just removed them as well, they were already flaking after a day and were leaving their crumbs on the rails.

#3276 3 years ago
Quoted from Roamin:

For the past weeks pretty much all I do involves Fish tales in a way. Do we all get that obsessed with our machines?

Yup, I spent 2 months, nights and weekends shopping out my project fish tales. It looked like I had a Volkswagen torn apart in my gameroom. Did a Slugfest and TZ after that. I look for pins that are clean and fully working now.

#3277 3 years ago

Whats Up Caster's Club? New Fish tales owner here. Just got mine in a trade. Fully shopped, LED's, Side Blades and Nice Color DMD. Love this machine! There is a bit of planking on the right side top of the backbox and there is some fading on the decals. Any tips on fixing the Back Box Planking. Its about 3 inches in the middle of the backbox that has pealed away. There is some material missing as well where some chipped off. Thankfully it doesn't get too far into the Mermaid Side Art. Is it possible to Mask, Sand, Fill, Paint and Repair? Thanks in advance. Always wanted a FT as I love to Fish!

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#3278 3 years ago
Quoted from DJH79:

Whats Up Caster's Club? New Fish tales owner here. Just got mine in a trade. Fully shopped, LED's, Side Blades and Nice Color DMD. Love this machine! There is a bit of planking on the right side top of the backbox and there is some fading on the decals. Any tips on fixing the Back Box Planking. Its about 3 inches in the middle of the backbox that has pealed away. There is some material missing as well where some chipped off. Thankfully it doesn't get too far into the Mermaid Side Art. Is it possible to Mask, Sand, Fill, Paint and Repair? Thanks in advance. Always wanted a FT as I love to Fish![quoted image][quoted image]

I know new decals are available, so I dont see why one couldn't peel away the old, repair, and apply new decals. Congratulations on the purchase!

#3279 3 years ago

DJH79 Congrats on joining the club! Can you post a pic of that damage close up ? I'm fairly new to the pinball world , but I've gathered a ton of info from this forum. I believe most people like to use "kwik wood" to repair playfields. I used it to plug a hole one I removed a L bracket that was added to the caster's club (I posted a picture 1 or 2 pages back) and the results were great. I'm sure it would work well for your repair as well.

#3280 3 years ago

Just picked up a second FT for my office!

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#3281 3 years ago
Quoted from Mtg381:

Just picked up a second FT for my office!
[quoted image]

That’s cool where did you get that?

#3282 3 years ago

I picked one up as well. Not sure yet where it final place will be. Bud for size.

Quoted from davijc02:

That’s cool where did you get that?

Scroll up to post #3252

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#3283 3 years ago
Quoted from Mtg381:

Just picked up a second FT for my office!
[quoted image]

Color dmd , nice .

#3284 3 years ago
Quoted from Roamin:

I picked one up as well. Not sure yet where it final place will be. Bud for size.

Scroll up to post #3252
[quoted image]

Funny that so many real ones are faded, they made the miniature pre faded.

#3285 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Funny that so many real ones are faded, they made the miniature pre faded.

I thought the same thing

#3286 3 years ago

And here I thought I couldn't spend more on my machine.. and found out about "Pinball Fidelity / Pinsound" and other audio mods. It turns out I already had a PSW10 subwoofer that was collecting dust because I upgraded my sound system a few weeks back. So I wired the PSW10 with its speaker level input. There definitely is a difference, but since I always had difficulty hearing low frequencies to begin with , the difference is subtle to me. I really can't see how a Pinsound board will make tons of difference when the audio clips aren't high quality to begin with. I know some pinballs have had upgraded sound roms, I don't think Fish tales is one. At what point does it become too much with the mods ? If I changed the translite to mirrored backglass (receiving it today), added mirrored pinblades, color dmd on its way, 100% LED , subwoofer.. The more I mod, the further from "original", like I wanted, it becomes.. These mods are adding value to most pinsiders you think?

400$ more or less, for an amp and speakers ? (Pin Fidelity / Pinsound) That can't be justified, can it ?

Oh, and the pinblade mirrors are so tight, I have to be really carefull now when flipping the board .. but I shouldn't need to flip it much anymore. I used mirrors because they were given to me with the machine. What's everyone's preference ? Decals ? Mirrors ? Naked ?

#3287 3 years ago
Quoted from Roamin:

At what point does it become too much with the mods ?

Beyond Color DMD, most mods loose their value at resale and obviously the time you spend installing them does not get reimbursed, so that is a big downside, but a fun part of the hobby is modding a pin to your own taste.

Keeping my collection of 1 classic and 7 DMD pins playing well and restored to best of my ability keeps me busy, and is usually a priority for me above thinking about mods. (and finding some time to play them)

#3288 3 years ago

Top , translite. Bottom CPR's mirrored backglass. The colors are amazing.

20200915_172836.jpg20200915_172836.jpg
#3289 3 years ago
Quoted from Roamin:

Top , translite. Bottom CPR's mirrored backglass. The colors are amazing.
[quoted image]

Thats pretty darnn sweet!!!

#3290 3 years ago
Quoted from Roamin:

Top , translite. Bottom CPR's mirrored backglass. The colors are amazing.
[quoted image]

Awe, shit.....

#3291 3 years ago
Quoted from Roamin:

Top , translite. Bottom CPR's mirrored backglass. The colors are amazing.
[quoted image]

I heard that CPR glass is too dark and you miss some of the detail, can you please comment on that? considering glass for a couple of my titles.. thanks. looks good to me!

#3292 3 years ago

I actually prefer the colors on the original translite. Those CPR colors just look too dark. The blue on the water just looks more natural on the translite (to me anyway). But yeah, the sweet thing about this hobby is the ability to mod your machine any way you prefer! Gotta love it

#3293 3 years ago

Well, it is true that if we are looking up close, there might be some details missing. I find my translite actually looks better now that it is off and that the glass in front removed. The problem is that once backlight, the translite fades considerably, where the backglass actually stands out more once backlit. I think it would of looked better if it didn't have the "mirrored" part of it.. Once backlight, the mirror reflections dissappear but it still blocks the image behind (in the lightning it is easier to notice). But when the machine is turned off, then the reflection does catch your eye when passing by. One drawback is that the speaker panel looks dull now next to the backglass. If both would match it would look even better. I might increase the backlight from 1smd to brighter, not sure yet.

So overall, translite next to backglass without lighting the translite, the colors are very very close. Once the translite is lit, it fades a whole lot. Are there mods to translites that make them stand out more?

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#3294 3 years ago

Hi guys,

Have been having an issue with my FT that I am finally willing to tackle.
It works flawlessly, except for one issue at a very specfic moment.

When in MB, and the caster's club has been hit, we aim for the jackpot. When I do, right when hitting the monster fish spinner, about 50% of the time the game will just instantly Tilt.
Tilt bob has been removed, behaviour stays the same.

There is something strange there that I really don't get.
Was thinking of a software bug, ordered a new Rom from the latest version, same behaviour.

Any idea?

#3295 3 years ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Hi guys,
Have been having an issue with my FT that I am finally willing to tackle.
It works flawlessly, except for one issue at a very specfic moment.
When in MB, and the caster's club has been hit, we aim for the jackpot. When I do, right when hitting the monster fish spinner, about 50% of the time the game will just instantly Tilt.
Tilt bob has been removed, behaviour stays the same.
There is something strange there that I really don't get.
Was thinking of a software bug, ordered a new Rom from the latest version, same behaviour.
Any idea?

Someone with more experience I'm sure will chime in here, but I'd start by figuring out which connections in the backbox are relevant to the tilt bob, and the spinner. Maybe try re-seating those connectors first. Long shot, I know, but it's free and easy to try.

#3296 3 years ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Hi guys,
Have been having an issue with my FT that I am finally willing to tackle.
It works flawlessly, except for one issue at a very specfic moment.
When in MB, and the caster's club has been hit, we aim for the jackpot. When I do, right when hitting the monster fish spinner, about 50% of the time the game will just instantly Tilt.
Tilt bob has been removed, behaviour stays the same.
There is something strange there that I really don't get.
Was thinking of a software bug, ordered a new Rom from the latest version, same behaviour.
Any idea?

Check and make sure nothing on the monster fish spinner is grounding out anywhere. I had a problem on mine where when in one of the modes when I would hit the boat it would tilt. I had just replaced the boat and it was a grounding issue with the switch diode.

#3297 3 years ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

Check and make sure nothing on the monster fish spinner is grounding out anywhere. I had a problem on mine where when in one of the modes when I would hit the boat it would tilt. I had just replaced the boat and it was a grounding issue with the switch diode.

Ahhhhhh, excellent point! That's all the tilt bob does is create a short to ground.

#3298 3 years ago

Will check that, thanks!
But that's weird that it does it only in the MB, not at any other time.

#3299 3 years ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Will check that, thanks!
But that's weird that it does it only in the MB, not at any other time.

Yeah, like multi-ball is not already hard enough in this game!

#3300 3 years ago

I'm fairly new in the pinball world, but I saw the very informational video on shorted diodes and what could happen, triggering different switches, and how you make a box to identify them.

During multiball, and casters club is locked again, the ball that was locked is actually not waiting in the reel, but rather in the catapult, ready to fire. So the catapult switch is toggled at that moment.

You then trigger switch spinner.

I think you might have a shorted diode in one of those 4 switches in the image I posted. Spinner and Bob tilt are on the same line, and match that with catapult at the bottom that is closed. Probably why it only happens during jackpot shot.

edit: Actually the shorted diode should be out of 3 and not 4 possible switches , trough 1, catapult or spinner. These 3 switches are really abused in this game so it wouldn't be that surprising I guess.

Screenshot_20200928-202934_Firefox.jpgScreenshot_20200928-202934_Firefox.jpg

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