I did it ... I realized ... but it's still the same ... incredible ... I thought it was already solved ... but no

Solved Boys !! Arrange the diode
Reset the machine and voila ..

Thank you !!!

My Diverter went haywire last night. Started clicking and resetting whenever a ball was staged to launch.

Now it does not open at all at launch / or when the Long Cast is lit.

Any ideas of where to start sussing the issue?

Tests - Switch Edge - does the switch work ?

Tests - Coils - does the diverter coil fire ?

Start by narrowing it down.

LTG : )

Diverter Coil is not firing in Test.

Switch Tests fine.

Guessing bad coil?

(Left Popper is also not firing in Test, now...hmmm)

Thanks.

Ground the tab on the transistor that fires them. If it doesn't fire, then a break in wiring from transistor legs to the coil itself, not just the lugs.

If it fires, maybe ribbon cable from CPU to driver board or something on the board upstream from the transistor.

LTG : )

Locate Q 66 then ground it to anywhere?

I don't have a lot of experience with anything but simple mechs and stuff like repinning / reflowing and Battery Relocation when it comes to the boards.

So, if you wouldn't mind explaining the procedure as if you were teaching it to your dog...I would greatly appreciate it.

If not I am sure I can seaarch around and find instructions.

Thanks!

If you had a jumper wire with an alligator clip on each end would help.

Clip one end to the metal tab on the top of the transistor. The other end, briefly touch to metal in the backbox. Like the metal back that all the boards are fastened to. Or the top of a screw securing the board to the big metal plate back there.

LTG : )

Can do. Thanks.

Q66 - Nothing
Q 48 - Pop Coil Fires

Thanks so much. I went ahead and ordered up a replacement coil for the diverter and will swap that one out (and rebuild my pops to sort the pop issue).

Q66 diverter - if new coil doesn't do it, you most likely have a broken wire from the driver board to it.

LTG : )

Again, thanks.

And I figure if I am gonna poke around down there, I might as well throw a fresh coil in while I am at it.

Until then I will have to rubberband that gate open!

Still in search of a topper!

Was chasing my tail this evening. I noticed the lowest of the 5 yellows lamps on stretch the truth billboard at the spinner was out sometimes during play, like a bulb/LED issue.

After some messing around, and realizing that the bulb went out when I spelled L-I-E, so I had to check the rules.

"Each time you spell LIE, the lowest value on the stretch the truth billboard is turned off." UGH, normal!

What's everyone doing to protect the middle boat plastic? (Captive ball)I have replaced it twice, bought the plastic protector that goes underneath. Still the corners tend to break off.

Same here. I bought a new one when I got my current game and installed the protector. Two weeks later, here comes the edge piece down the playfield with the ball. So pissed! I have tried leaving that screw a little loose and tightening it all the way down. Neither works

What if we made a clear plexi just a tiny bit bigger and put it under. I know they make one for that but Im talking thicker.

Not sure, but you would have to make sure those screws are long enough to grab thru it.

I used a couple of clear plastic washers to protect boat ramp plastic. So far so good.

Hmmm maybe the boat protector plastic plus washers?

Where did you get the clear washers? Marcos?

That's exactly what I did , after I got a new plastic I cut a bit of 3mm perspex at work and it's been perfect . ( a bit hard to see in the photo ) and the screws were fine . I got lazy and didn't cut the centre check out but you can hardly even see it , you would only know if you are looking for it , so I'm not too worried . Since doing it I've learned that you if you put a flame to the edge it will go clear .

IMG20200517235451 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200518_002306 (resized).jpg

Nope, tried it, mine shattered quickly

I'm considering grinding off both sides to sit behind those posts. If I can get them even and smooth, it may have to do. I'm not gonna keep spending 30 bucks to replace that plastic and keep my fingers crossed.

Don't grind anything , p.m. me your address and I'll make one for you , if you're interested .
( for free )

Well, thank you, but one side is already broken off. I have glued it to the protector to keep it in place, but it still pops off once in a while.
Very nice of you to offer!

I know Titan has them in different sizes. They are not very thick but you could double up. I didn't know there was a plastic protector so used what I had. Who sales that?

I would use metal washers if broken plastics are that much of a problem. Be nice if Cliffy or someone made nice metal protector that fit in there nice. I would buy one.

Mine came with a metal one. I can’t seem to find it since I did my restore. If I can sniff it out somewhere I’ll post it

Using plastic washers and leave all the screws holding the boat plastic a little loose so the plastic can shift and absorb energy.

Anyone happen to have a new Fish Tales plastic set they'd be willing to sell? Or a lead on an available set would be appreciated. I've checked the major suppliers and haven't been able to find a set instock. Thanks!

Marco's. There was a set of 5 or 6. The most common broken plastics. I want to say slings, the boat, the 2 water pieces on both sides of the boat.

I bought the last one from coin taker a few months back. It was missing 1 major pieces and a couple of clear pieces. Maybe they will rerun the again soon

I have a partial set PM me if interested.

Thanks again for the help.

New Coil installed and we are back in business. Gate working as it should.

Perhaps reach out to PPS

http://www.planetarypinball.com/

I believe they might be doing a new run

Thanks very much for the offer. This game is in really bad shape and every single plastic is either scratched, cracked or warped. I'm going to need to find the entire set.

Thanks for the suggestion. I reached out to PPS last week and was told they are hoping to have the Fish Tales plastics soon, but don't have an ETA. The search continues...

What is the consensus on side blades/side art... i have seen the tilt graphics one, but they are out of stock... any other options? Is it a worthwhile mod?

I have the Tilt Graphics blades. Love them. Worth the wait in my opinion. Or, perhaps you could find a set from a distributor. I ordered mine here on pinside, cant remember who though.

I went with mirror blades and think they work really well and are worth it , but it's all a matter of what you like the most.

Hi folks,

New owner - really lovely Lenc Smith playfield with a typically faded but otherwise perfect cabinet. Bizarrely has no Mylar anywhere on the playfield, but that’s not my question.

The little square metal flap at the boat crossover is raised slightly causing the ball to ‘hop’. Has anyone solved this in an elegant way? Was considering just a piece of Mylar to stick it down!

Thanks!

35441440-E177-4149-BFAC-F5E944C79431 (resized).jpeg

I checked mine and I have that same screw in there. I was sure it would be a flat head but it is the same as yours. I think I would try adjusting the stand-ups that hold up the plastic ramps to see if maybe an adjustment there could tweak it so the flap sits level.

That should be riveted in all 4 positions.
Looks like yours might need a cleaning and a massage as well.

My metal piece is different to yours . I don't know if some double-sided tape under the flap might work ?

IMG20200523033949 (resized).jpg

It has 4 rivets in it, but also an extra 2 holes which seem to be pointless.

This game also has a lit square cast button, which isn’t common if I understand things correctly?

Double side tape is a good idea, thanks.

Just checked mine and mine has a flat headed screw and no extra holes. My flap sits nice and flat with no ball hop. Time to try adjusting and bending where necessary.

Any leads on playfields? I have a real beat up player's condition machine- I was going to slap down a decal and a playfield protector, but I kind of feel like with the work to get the protector on it's not *that* far away from just totally stripping it and replacing the playfield.

Mirco. $999 with free shipping to USA and Canada. In stock.

I have a brand new CPR gold that I am not going to use now. If interested PM me.

Hi guys,

having an issue with mine;
the drop target latch was not wired.

I wired it, and now the coil that drops the target down is activating as soon as I switch the machine on. (I guess that's why the previous owner unplugged it...)
I changed the Q50 associated to it along with the diod; same issue.

Any idea?