Quoted from mcalon:What are the chances to get these plastics in green too?[quoted image]
Unfortunately not something I can cut.
Small batch of blue ramps are now available for folks who like that one. Only a couple green left from this batch.
Quoted from mcalon:What are the chances to get these plastics in green too?[quoted image]
Unfortunately not something I can cut.
Small batch of blue ramps are now available for folks who like that one. Only a couple green left from this batch.
Will post a pic once I have the Green on installed.
Should be pretty straight forward if there is no riveting to do
Quoted from joostproost:Hi Guys I just bought an old Fishtales. The previous owner owned it for 20 years and never touched anything nor played on it. So I was wondering if there is any newer improved software like a new game ROM or sound ROM and if it's worth updating? - Thx Guys!
[quoted image]
Yes, check here L5/L6 https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1089-pinballrom/06200-rom-fish-tales-cpu-
Quoted from joostproost:newer improved software
FYI - I'm running on L-3 with no issues. (new versions may just add small changes like support for overseas currency combinations, etc)
Quoted from joostproost:Hi Guys I just bought an old Fishtales. The previous owner owned it for 20 years and never touched anything nor played on it. So I was wondering if there is any newer improved software like a new game ROM or sound ROM and if it's worth updating? - Thx Guys!
[quoted image]
You can read the list of changes on each subsequent ROM version. Some don’t affect gameplay much and others add a key feature, like the ball save in the latest White Water ROM.
Quoted from Neal_W:FYI - I'm running on L-3 with no issues. (new versions may just add small changes like support for overseas currency combinations, etc)
Ah ok that isn't worth the buy. How about Sound Roms? Does upgrading them make a big difference ? I'm on SOUND REV L-1 .... is that updatable as well? or is that stay standard? Non-upgradable.... is see some U18 roms for sale ...
Quoted from joostproost:Wow "Where did you get these wonderfull toys" Esp. the car with the boat!?
Bought them online. Search truck with bass boat
Quoted from Stebel:Always thought the right side of the playfield could use a little something.
May I present - “Mark the Mosquito”. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice. That area is ripe for toys. I parked my truck and bass boat over there.
Quoted from Stebel:Always thought the right side of the playfield could use a little something.
May I present - “Mark the Mosquito”. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Very nice.
did you sculpt “Mark the Mosquito” yourself? he's awesome!!! making any to sell to us other fish tales owners!!!!!
Quoted from zerbam:did you sculpt “Mark the Mosquito” yourself? he's awesome!!! making any to sell to us other fish tales owners!!!!!
I asked a girl at my work to make him for me. She made it from scratch just looking at the playfield plastic. It is resin printed.
I am going to work with her to refine the printing process and make it even better.
Mark the Mosquito will be for sale in the future.
Quoted from joostproost:I found these great looking fish at Aliexpress to liven up the playfield: bit.ly/3HHyvHL[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from joostproost:Do you need a ROM upgrade for a colorDMD? Is anybody running a Color DMD on rev. L-3?
Color DMD (LED dots) looks amazing in FT and doesn't require a rom upgrade. L6 is the latest rom available.
If you wanting to do more...LED lighting throughout if you prefer a more vibrant look and run at cooler temps than original incandescent bulbs. I used frosted white for GI and color LEDs on inserts and flashers and I also highlighted some areas of backglass with color as well.
There's a few different side art designs to choose from.
BriteCaps EVO Lighting gives a modern look to pop bumpers and brightens upper playfield.
Quoted from phs4real:Color DMD (LED dots) looks amazing in FT and doesn't require a rom upgrade. L6 is the latest rom available.
If you wanting to do more...LED lighting throughout if you prefer a more vibrant look and run at cooler temps than original incandescent bulbs. I used frosted white for GI and color LEDs on inserts and flashers and I also highlighted some areas of backglass with color as well.
There's a few different side art designs to choose from.
BriteCaps EVO Lighting gives a modern look to pop bumpers and brightens upper playfield.
Thx for the tips!! So your running a Color DMD om L3?
Quoted from joostproost:Thx for the tips!! So your running a Color DMD om L3?
I updated to L6 before installing a Color DMD
Color DMD Requirements - Game ROM Version: L-5, Language Mode: English.
Here's the link for the LED color dmd. They have Both LED and LCD, I like LED for FT.
https://shop.colordmd.com/led-replacement-display-for-fish-tales-pinball-machine/
Quoted from joostproost:Does anybody know where I can buy the Color DMD files for Pin2DMD?
[quoted image]
You can find the information here : https://vpuniverse.com/forums/forum/138-pin2dmd-dmd-colorization-works-in-progress/
Hi.
I'm having some troubles with some lamps, exactly n. 41 and 42, on the center of the playfield.
They are not lighting
Cables are ok, so bulbs (led) cause they are new.
Other lamps in the 4 column are lighting, so the other lamps in the raws 1 and 2.
I tested diodes directly on the card in the picture, all ok.
Does someone has the schematic of that card or suggestions about how to solve the issue?
What does the component circled is ?
Quoted from Marco1973:Hi.
I'm having some troubles with some lamps, exactly n. 41 and 42, on the center of the playfield.
They are not lighting
Cables are ok, so bulbs (led) cause they are new.
Other lamps in the 4 column are lighting, so the other lamps in the raws 1 and 2.
I tested diodes directly on the card in the picture, all ok.
Does someone has the schematic of that card or suggestions about how to solve the issue?
What does the component circled is ?
[quoted image]
W1 is a jumper wire in the form/shape of a resistor.
I would suspect a cold solder on j1, these fail often.
Make sure you have a good continuity and good connection.
Quoted from mcalon:I would suspect a cold solder on j1, these fail often.
Yup, reflow the solder there.
Quoted from joostproost:Check out the custom fish and rod I placed in the cabinet.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I really like the rod.
Quoted from Marco1973:Hi.
I'm having some troubles with some lamps, exactly n. 41 and 42, on the center of the playfield.
They are not lighting
Cables are ok, so bulbs (led) cause they are new.
Other lamps in the 4 column are lighting, so the other lamps in the raws 1 and 2.
I tested diodes directly on the card in the picture, all ok.
Does someone has the schematic of that card or suggestions about how to solve the issue?
What does the component circled is ?
This might sound silly but i know of heaps of people that don't check it.
Have you tried bending out the contact wires on the 555 wedge globes, sometimes the metal blades in the socket spread out and new globes in particular won't get good contact. You can also compress the blades together somewhat also but i do find that flaring the wire on the 555 LED so it's out past the edge of the plastic body helps too.
Quoted from DanTheMan:Can you flame polish the dome over the fish topper?
Yup, i've done it to mine, and my Whitewater dome too. The OEM is very thin, so use a low flame at a distance and keep it moving.
Quoted from mcalon:W1 is a jumper wire in the form/shape of a resistor.
I would suspect a cold solder on j1, these fail often.
Make sure you have a good continuity and good connection.
mcalon
Thanks for the suggestion and for explaining me what W1 Is.
I tested continuity and it is good.
Quoted from Neal_W:Yup, reflow the solder there.
Thank you too. I remade all the solders.
Unfortunately no news about lighting of the 2 bulbs.
Continuity of W1 Is really good, i don't think replacing it with a piece of cable will light up the bulbs.
Maybe some petrol will
Quoted from Mancave:This might sound silly but i know of heaps of people that don't check it.
Have you tried bending out the contact wires on the 555 wedge globes, sometimes the metal blades in the socket spread out and new globes in particular won't get good contact. You can also compress the blades together somewhat also but i do find that flaring the wire on the 555 LED so it's out past the edge of the plastic body helps too.
I think there are no silly suggestions here. Even simple thing could be the solution.
I changed bulbs and sockets trying them in other lamps sockets. They are ok, except in sockets 41 and 42.
Quoted from joostproost:Check out the custom fish and rod I placed in the cabinet.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This PIN Is full of colour so you did a great job, in my opinion.
In the second picture the fish Is really fun.
But Mark the Mosquito will be the best solution there, awaiting Stebel will build some.
Quoted from Marco1973:I think there are no silly suggestions here. Even simple thing could be the solution.
I changed bulbs and sockets trying them in other lamps sockets. They are ok, except in sockets 41 and 42.
Here's another basic one, that you probably checked: I've had games where the solder contact pads on the board were worn away at the spot where the bulb base would contact them when twisted in. I was able to reflow solder onto the area and fish connection issues.
Quoted from yzfguy:Here's another basic one, that you probably checked: I've had games where the solder contact pads on the board were worn away at the spot where the bulb base would contact them when twisted in. I was able to reflow solder onto the area and fish connection issues.
In fact I did not checked It yzfguy
Now I'm going to drive to Rome.
On wednesday I will be back and I will check It.
Thank you.
Marco1973
This is a connection issue, old equipment which got worn. I'm sure you will find the weak connection. Wiggle until you get it.
At this point I'd replace bulbs, twist socket, bend leds legs and tabs. ..
It must be there, somewhere.
Also, I meant to check continuty between the connectors pins and bulbs traces. But if you did the solders it should be fine.
Quoted from Marco1973:This PIN Is full of colour so you did a great job, in my opinion.
In the second picture the fish Is really fun.
But Mark the Mosquito will be the best solution there, awaiting Stebel will build some.
Thx man!
Quoted from Marco1973:In fact I did not checked It yzfguy
Now I'm going to drive to Rome.
On wednesday I will be back and I will check It.
Thank you.
I checked everything, but I'm not founding the issue.
I could change diodes and resistor, using some times and some bucks.
Tracks are ok so bulbs and cables(otherwise will lights with same row or column not Lit).
But do someone knows the value of the resistor and the "name" of the diodes on the card posted at #5124 ?
Quoted from Joker19:Here is the ramp from Ramp O Matic. Went with Green to match the back a bit.
[quoted image]
do you mind posting other pictures? it is hard to appreciate with all the lights
Quoted from tomdotcom:Went to play a game the other night and she won't boot up. Most likely culprits?
Open up the backbox so you can view the boards, is the driver board getting power (LED'S lit on the board) If the board is powered but not booting then check/re-seat the short wired connector between the driver board and the MPU. If the driver board isn't powered then i would check the mains unit box near the on/off switch. Could be a line filter blown so check the fuse in that box, if it's blown then a line filter is a distinct possibility as i had this happen to my BOP just recently.
Quoted from singapore_pin:do you mind posting other pictures? it is hard to appreciate with all the lights
Here you go, hope it's better
The real problem I have found when trying to show the colored ramps is that they do not photograph well...or at least I have not been able to photograph them with my phone in a way to make them show what you see in real life. With the machine off, they look too dark. With the machine on, they look much better due the the large amount of lighting on the other side of them. However, our phones tend to wash that color out when correcting for the backlighting. I am planning on taking my machine to the Allentown show this year to show these ramps in the real world. If anyone local is planning on attending, stop by my booth and have a play on it!
Quoted from JodyG:The real problem I have found when trying to show the colored ramps is that they do not photograph well...or at least I have not been able to photograph them with my phone in a way to make them show what you see in real life. With the machine off, they look too dark. With the machine on, they look much better due the the large amount of lighting on the other side of them. However, our phones tend to wash that color out when correcting for the backlighting. I am planning on taking my machine to the Allentown show this year to show these ramps in the real world. If anyone local is planning on attending, stop by my booth and have a play on it!
Ya for sure.
All I can say is the ramp is not too dark and fits well with the background green. Very satisfied with the result. My old ramp was foggy so it is a major upgrade! Lol.
Joker: thanks for the pics, it really helps
Jody: initially I thought that the ramps were too dark but it was the picture effect being several ramps stacked all together. Went again to zoom at the original picture and the colour looks spot on….not too dark, just beautiful! I will go with the blue
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