(Topic ID: 148154)

First Timer Trying to Repair Tri Zone

By deedubbs

8 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by Lysurgeon
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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Topic poll

“How will my Tri Zone repair fantasy end?”

  • I surrender and give it away to a good home to someone from Pinside. 0 votes
  • Pinside saves the day, I get it up and running for under $200. 3 votes
    75%
  • Pinside saves the day, but not my wallet, I get it up and running for over $200. 1 vote
    25%
  • I host a Pittsburgh Pinside Tri Zone and Cyclone party soon! 0 votes

(4 votes)

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#1 8 years ago

Hello and my apologies in advance if I violate the etiquette of pinside, it just seemed like a fine place to start.

What I know...

This was my family's pinball machine since around 1988. It was fully operationally until the early 1990s, but hasn't bee used since. I recently moved it into my house with the hope of repairing it, but I know little about pinball machines. Unfortunately, the batteries were never removed and corroded the battery holder, but the corrosion (to my untrained eye) has not spread. When I removed the corroded batteries, the bottom of the battery holder disintegrated.

Known problems:
1 The game was previously set to free play mode and still is unless the removal of batteries affects that, but pressing the start button does nothing.
2 The score board displays are all incomplete.
3 Diagnostic mode cycles through the displays correctly, but doesn't test the targets as I believe that is should.
4 There is a slight burning smell, but I think it's just the burning of dust throughout the machine (like I get when I first turn on my radiator heat), it doesn't smell smoky or like burning plastic.

Any advice on where to start would be hugely appreciated, especially if that advice is to not even both trying fix this. If I can get this running in 2016, I have the green light from my wife to buy Williams Cyclone, my all time favorite, so much is at stake. Thanks!!!

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#2 8 years ago

You'll probably need to give those boards the going over. I'd suggest bulletproofing it like vid's guide days to do.

#3 8 years ago

Yes, removal of the batteries changes all the settings back to factory default, unless the game is powered on while you remove and replace. Free play is not a default setting.
Do not replace the batteries. There is obvious corrosion that needs to be dealt with. This will get worse until it is cleaned up properly.
Unless you really know what you are doing with board repairs you should send at least the MPU and driver boards out for rebuild.

Good luck!

#4 8 years ago

Thanks for such quick responses!!!

This may be a dumb question, but how can I add credits? The coin dropper latches didn't do it. I even put quarters in manually, but no luck. Is that a mechancial problem or am I just missing something?

Thanks again! I really appreciate all of the help and am excited to learn about System 6 machines. Even if I have to call someone to repair the boards, I'd like to get as much knowledge as I can before calling for help.

#5 8 years ago

Hi Deedubbs -
I think you have a bit more battery corrosion damage than you may realize. I see a lot of green, particularly in the interconnect plugs. You really should get the MPU/Driver boards before you can troubleshoot anything else.

Assuming that the credit-issue is not on the boards, and is mechanical, you could have a leaf-switch stuck closed in your coin door.

#6 8 years ago

Williams system 3-7 games are generally good games to have. Follow Vid's bulletproofing guides to repair/upgrade the MPU & driver boards- you will not be sorry. Be sure to also address the power supply and sound boards, the flippers, and drop targets (if it has any) Check over all playfield solonoids and all connectors too. Think I've covered the basics-if I missed anything/given any bad advice please correct me folks.

#7 8 years ago

OP. The chances are you have multiple issues with your pin. The chip above the battery holder has been affected by the leaking battery as has the 40 pin connector. The missing segments on the displays is another issue altogether.

If you plan to fix the pin yourself you need a methodical approach to fixing your problems which Vid's guide will give you.

Otherwise send the boards out for repair.

Either way good luck. Tri Zone was my first pin and is pretty good ☺ (as I'm sure you know)

#8 8 years ago

Awesome, thanks to all who responded. I'll check out Vid's guides, but if they're beyond my current comfort level, are there any recommendations about where to send the boards? Also, what would a typical board repair cost on a Williams 6?

Thanks again!

You all have definitely may me feel welcome and excited about pinball again.

#9 8 years ago

There are several pinsiders who work on Williams boards. JohnWartJr, Chris Hibler and Barakandl come to mind. There are also retailers and professional service companies who do repairs on a more full time basis.
Barakandl (Andrew S.) has repaired MPUs and drivers from a couple of my Williams Sys 6/7 games for very reasonable prices. He has done great work with a very quick turnaround.
Just guessing $100-120 for rebuild of the MPU and driver boards. It will depend on how bad the corrosion damage is though.

#10 8 years ago

I would suggest buying an old vcr and practicing your solder skills. If you are going to own a pin, you'll want to learn how to fix them, as it can get costly if you always have to have someone come fix it for you.

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