(Topic ID: 100523)

Smoked damaged Stern Playboy resurrection NSFW


By futurepinhead

5 years ago



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  • 470 posts
  • 99 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by xeneize
  • Topic is favorited by 28 Pinsiders

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There are 470 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 10.
#1 5 years ago

Ok here it is in all its glory. It is absolutely filthy. I turned it on and I get GI, the DMD sometimes flickers, and I sometimes here a bongo drums sound. Other than that nothing. I barely cleaned it with Windex and Novus 2 just to get an idea of what we are looking at here. The cleaned off playfield isn't nearly as vibrant as the colors suggest in photo. Most of the metal is rusted for now. Give me some opinions.

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Post edited by futurepinhead: I editted the title as some of the future posts are going to have NSFW images.

#2 5 years ago

99% isopropyl alcohol usually removes smoke/soot from the circuit boards. I think you could use it on the playfield to get most of the soot off then go at it with Novus #2.

Obviously the perforated plastic venting material on the cabinet is melted/destroyed and must be replaced. Get those cooked batteries off the board NOW, too before you have to deal with battery leakage problems on top of everything else.

Try some Mean Green and a scrub brush on the outside of the cabinet.

On the boards, I remove all the socketed chips after carefully noting which ones go in which sockets. The reason for doing this is to allow cleaner to get into the sockets as well as allowing the sockets to dry out quickly. The temporarily removed chips can then have their legs cleaned with either a fiberglass eraser or a Dremel tool with wire brush set on it's lowest speed.

Alot of the metal parts including the habitrails can be soaked overnight in Evapo-Rust to get the rust off.

#3 5 years ago

I agree, take those batteries out of the oven-- I mean, battery holder, they look like they are cooked well done.

If the playfield is completely cleanable, that can be salvaged. There may be some life left in the boards if it powers up and stuff happens, but the DMD is quite possibly toast and may need replacement. Check the connectors for continuity (actually, for visible damage as well). Once the connectors are known to be good, any remaining issues have to lie within the boards.

This is a fun game, I played one on location at a bar before it was replaced with Yet Another Punching Bag Machine some months later. I'd hate to see it parted out, but can't yet rule out that possibility.

#4 5 years ago

Now thats a project.

#5 5 years ago
Quoted from futurepinhead:

Ok here it is in all its glory. It is absolutely filthy. I turned it on and I get GI, the DMD sometimes flickers, and I sometimes here a bongo drums sound. Other than that nothing. I barely cleaned it with Windex and Novus 2 just to get an idea of what we are looking at here. The cleaned off playfield isn't nearly as vibrant as the colors suggest in photo. Most of the metal is rusted for now. Give me some opinions.

Isn't it going to be hard to get the smoke smell out of it?

Rob

#6 5 years ago

If it got hot enough to do that to the batteries then I'd lay money that board is never coming back to life. So then you gotta work out if the cost of the new board and all the other work to get it back to life is worth the cost and effort. I hate it when folks part a machine out, but in this case maybe it's called for.

What's it look like inside the cab and under the playfield?

#7 5 years ago

What was your cost basis on this? Seem to find these easily for less than 2k lately and I could see someone putting in close to that in time and parts etc...to get this back to even playable. Just judging by the melted batteries you may have damage to those PCB's that you might not even be able to see externally.

#8 5 years ago

Good stuff here, but I wouldn't throw in the towel just yet on that board. Get the batteries off of it, wash it, get a chip set from John Wart, and reseat the PAL near the CPU chip. If that doesn't get it, buy a new PAL from Marco (I think they are still available, just make sure it is not the one for a Sharkeys Shootout)?, and replace any socketed processor chips. Yes, you might spend 40-50 bucks trying to fix that CPU, but it is better than spending 500 if you can help it!

Also, go easy on the cabinet. The Sterns don't handle invasive cleaners well. If you have to use Super Clean or any other degreaser stronger than 409, use it sparingly or you will pull the paint.

Good luck. The smell might be the toughest thing to get out, if you make it that far.

-Mike

#9 5 years ago

Looks like that strip club down town. Nasty place.

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

If it got hot enough to do that to the batteries then I'd lay money that board is never coming back to life. So then you gotta work out if the cost of the new board and all the other work to get it back to life is worth the cost and effort. I hate it when folks part a machine out, but in this case maybe it's called for.
What's it look like inside the cab and under the playfield?

Was thinking the same thing.

Also wondering your cost on this and your ultimate goal...is this a keeper?
It's not a super collectible title, so you could very easily be into this for more than you would ever get out of it...

Really neat to see these machines get cleaned up though!

#12 5 years ago

The batteries were taken out immediately.

Quoted from skquinn:

but the DMD is quite possibly toast and may need replacement. Check the connectors for continuity (actually, for visible damage as well). Once the connectors are known to be good, any remaining issues have to lie within the boards.

The DMD only flickers but I do believe it is toast.

Quoted from Rob_G:Isn't it going to be hard to get the smoke smell out of it?

Rob

I was driving and saw a burned down house and thought, this must be the place. I was looking at the game in the barn and I could not smell anything. It turns out it was from a fire several years back, so no smell.

Quoted from Whistles:

What was your cost basis on this? Seem to find these easily for less than 2k lately and I could see someone putting in close to that in time and parts etc...to get this back to even playable. Just judging by the melted batteries you may have damage to those PCB's that you might not even be able to see externally.

...$25

Quoted from NJGecko:

Also wondering your cost on this and your ultimate goal...is this a keeper?
It's not a super collectible title, so you could very easily be into this for more than you would ever get out of it...

This is actually the only Stern game I have ever enjoyed but I never really got a whole lot of play time on it. I wouldn't call it a keeper yet but I am also not ready to call it quits yet.

Thank you, I was looking for this thread.

#13 5 years ago

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A little more of the backbox and a brief clean on the cab with dishsoap and baking soda

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#14 5 years ago
Quoted from futurepinhead:

It is absolutely filthy.

I see what you did there.

#15 5 years ago

Are the boards still within warranty?

#16 5 years ago
Quoted from futurepinhead:

Are the boards still within warranty?

No they are not.Damn shame that's one of the nicest machines Stern has made.This
would look good anywhere in the house.

#17 5 years ago

I would take out as much of the wiring harness as possible (most of it just unplugs anyway) and wash it. I'd scrub out those connectors too. The harness could be thrown into the kitchen sink or laundry room sink and sprayed with Mean Green. Let sit for a few minutes, then fill the sink with warm water and let the harness soak a few minutes. This should get it looking (and smelling) clean again as well as restoring good contact to the connectors. Be sure to let the harness dry out thoroughly before putting it back in the machine.

Your dot matrix problem could be bad ribbon cables. They simply don't like the heat and the contacts inside the connectors do corrode/tarnish easily from the smoke. Ribbon cables are cheap to replace anyway. Also, be sure to measure all the voltages at the display to be certain the power supply is good. Any one of the voltages being wrong/missing can cause display issues. Do those things first before replacing a display needlessly.

#18 5 years ago

If you've got the spare time to clean the machine up and a few extra dollars for the spare parts then all power to you. I'm with the others on this, i hate to see pins get ratted for parts and torn apart. The board that has the batteries doesn't look good but possibly not as bad as it seems and the play field seems to have cleaned up so far. GO FOR IT!!, be interested to see how it all turns out, keep posting updates if you can !!

#19 5 years ago

Ok, can't argue for $25.

Good luck with your restoration. Gonna take a lot of hours, elbow grease and a little luck. But what a great story if you bring it back to life!

#20 5 years ago

I did a fire saved BSD. For your boards, go buy some lestoil, and scrubbing bubbles. scrubbing bubbles the thing up, then with a toothbrush, dip it into a cup of lestoil and scrub with the toothbrush, then rinse, and dry with compressed air. This process works for wiring, and pretty much everything else but the cabinet.

Either way there is hope!

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#21 5 years ago

Glad to see there is hope! What did you use to clean the plastics? I think the hardest part for me is probably going to be the rust on all the metal. This has been in an open barn for years and has a lot of rust from the humidity here.

#22 5 years ago

How do I clean off a DMD?

#23 5 years ago

There is a specific spray I used to really break it down. I will have to look and see what it is when I get back to my house. There is a specific fire / smoke removal spray they make. It comes in a winded type bottle.

#24 5 years ago

Good luck with your project!

I believe I have a manual and mostly complete set of photos (unused) from a machine that I had along time back that I'd sell cheap.

If it's something you're interested in, send me a msg and I'll check it out.

#25 5 years ago
Quoted from futurepinhead:

Glad to see there is hope! What did you use to clean the plastics? I think the hardest part for me is probably going to be the rust on all the metal. This has been in an open barn for years and has a lot of rust from the humidity here.

Grab some chrome polish at your local auto parts store ( turtle wax chrome polish and rust remover is what I use) and aluminum foil... Use the foil as your rag.. Dab a bit of on the wadded up foil and watch it work its magic...... This is for the metal only... Not plastic...

Keep up the project!!! Like you, I have fun getting things back they way they were....

#26 5 years ago

Be sure to keep those pictures coming.

#27 5 years ago

It might sound far-fetched, but I have successfully cleaned badly damaged PC boards in my dishwasher. I'm talking acid-damaged, and extreme dirt conditions on electric lift truck controllers and outdoor crane controllers.

Pre-spray with simple green, use the standard dish-washing detergent, let it run thru the complete cycle along with heated drying, then hit it with compressed air afterwords. This will release any junk under the chip sockets and behind the heat sinks.

You will be surprised how clean they get.

Connectors on the harnesses can be cleaned with a decent ultrasonic cleaner, using ammonia-based solvent.

#28 5 years ago

This is like the opposite of that trashed IM that got restored.

#29 5 years ago

Okay, I got the flippers to the slingshot broke off tonight. I cleaned with novus. I didn't have the alcohol or scrubbing bubbles (I am a bachelor and live as such). I was fairly unimpressed with the results, in one of the photos under where the apron is supposed to be, you can see what I am talking about. I just cant seem to get the vibrancy back. Will the other methods really make that much of a difference? Also, the third from last photo, you can see where a washer was and the difference in blues.

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#30 5 years ago

I had some nastly clear plastics (there are a ton on this game) I decided since repros are available, I would try flame polishing.... nope repros it is. That clear plastic got heavily damaged by the smoke but the actual plastics aren't AS bad, I hope I can get to where I am satisfied with them but I know I will end up buying a set down the line. Someone as anal as me should not take on something like this.

#31 5 years ago
Quoted from futurepinhead:

Someone as anal as me should not take on something like this.

Oh, please. Just keep repeating "This cost me $25" in your head over and over again, and your anal-retentive twitch will be sated.

#32 5 years ago
Quoted from boagman:

Oh, please. Just keep repeating "This cost me $25" in your head over and over again, and your anal-retentive twitch will be sated.

All I can do is promise to try.

#33 5 years ago
Quoted from futurepinhead:

All I can do is promise to try.

Well, if indeed it's such a burden to you, I'm only too happy to relieve you of such hardship...and don't worry! I'll DOUBLE YOUR MONEY to $50, and pick it up tomorrow, and it'll be out of your hair!

#34 5 years ago

Haha, I wish I could let go as easily as that. I was offered $200 but I love having more projects than I can handle I guess. To get this, I had to get the Turkey Hunting USA as well. Free to any home, doesn't even have to be a good one.

#35 5 years ago

Has any body ever made their own photos for this game. I got a couple of playmates I like a lot better than the ones offered. Just trying to figure out what type of material would work best. Also, still wondering how to clean a DMD. Not sure how water will react with this.

#36 5 years ago

Well, you got yourself a real project there, Jared!!!

Looks like you've already made some good progress. Take it slow and easy and eventually you will get this back to working. Once you do that, then you can concentrate on replacing plastics and dressing it up.

Looks like 'fun'! Ha.

Mike

#37 5 years ago

Mike, this is one your whole family can enjoy! Your wife would let you put it in the living room.

#38 5 years ago

you could try clean the PF with 1600 wetsand paper.
I mean the lightest of a rub to loosen the black shit!

#39 5 years ago
Quoted from urbanledge:

you could try clean the PF with 1600 wetsand paper.
I mean the lightest of a rub to loosen the black shit!

I believe I have some actually. I could try it by the apron tonight.

#40 5 years ago
Quoted from futurepinhead:

Also, still wondering how to clean a DMD. Not sure how water will react with this.

Here's what I do:

1.Take the display out of the machine.

2. Spray it down with Mean Green and scrub with a soft bristle toothbrush being ever so careful around the glass display terminals. Do NOT soak or immerse the display glass.

3. Give it a quick rinse with warm water.

4. Blow dry with a fan or hair dryer.

5. Wait a few days before testing the display to be sure everything is completely dry.

#41 5 years ago

Thanks again, Ken. What's your thoughts on the new photos?

#42 5 years ago

It looks like you could still use some lighter fluid or alcohol on the playfield to get some of the soot out.

#43 5 years ago

Damn. I just noticed where you are and thought...wonder if he wants to sell it for dirt cheap, then I saw this.

Oh well.

Like I need another project of that magnitude anyway.

#44 5 years ago
Quoted from PIN_GROOM:

Damn. I just noticed where you are and thought...wonder if he wants to sell it for dirt cheap, then I saw this.
Oh well.
Like I need another project of that magnitude anyway.

Awesome, another Evansville guy. There's not too many of us. I'll send you a PM.

Here is the update. The alcohol worked amazing. Very happy with the results. I spent too much time piecing it back together tonight....not enough photos I guess. I might need some photos later on. I got several of pieces out of the EvapoRust and it looks good. I got another section off tonight. This game had a lot of mechs that are making me nervous taking it apart but gotta fight through it. Here are some photos

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#45 5 years ago

Wow, that lower area of the playfield is cleaning up quite nicely! The ball trough metal pieces look great!

#46 5 years ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

Wow, that lower area of the playfield is cleaning up quite nicely! The ball trough metal pieces look great!

Couldn't agree more, thanks again for all your help. I am getting into the complicated parts so hopefully we can get through that. Putting together the ball trough was tough. The switches it uses are held by tiny screws that were brittle due to the rust. I had two break off so I would like a link if anyone has one. Tomorrow I'll be putting the book nack together. Can someone please take a photo of the coil that pushes it open. I forgot to and when I realized it was too late.

#48 5 years ago

Thanks. I was just working on the beaded curtain part and couldn't get the posts to move. I couldn't figure out why the posts were attached to coils and found out that they are magnets. How cool! I've got to get this game running.

#49 5 years ago

Nice job !

#50 5 years ago

It's like taking the grime & grease off the innards of a car, and finding good unblemished paint(or bare non-rusty metal) underneath.

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